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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

19394969899

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  • Get some mass flow air sensor entire tune up, as follows, spark plus wires, coil(s) pcv valve, air filter, cabin air filter, remove egr valve and clean with some parts cleaner. buy new gasket and screen if you have it reatach remove idel air control valve all things for a tune up. as far as the clunking i am having the same issue. if you knew the asnwer to tat let me know
  • sadie11sadie11 Posts: 1
    I am having a recurring though not daily problem that drives me crazy. There are times when my idiot lights on the dash will blink on and off, my environmental control unit goes off then on, the clock goes off, back on and if I am playing my stereo, it will go off, sometimes back on or it will just stay off. I have been to the dealership twice, the only thing they fixed was my grounding issues. I have replaced my alt., starter, ignition switch and module and my wiper combination switch. All of these did need to be replaced. Now my car does all of the above but with a new twist, the engine will speed up and not always with the light thing going on. Could I have a ground issue still or do I need to replace my cables on my car? Also, when the car has had enough of all of this, it will refuse to start( all things light up when I turn the key on) and then I will have to disconnect the battery cable for a few minutes, reconnect and it will start just find, run good for a few days or so, then start all over again. I even disconnected the battery, waited 5 mins., reconnected the battery and took it on a 30 mile drive , so the computer could fix itself as my book put it. Can someone out there please help me with this problem? :confuse:
  • I have the same problem with a 2003 sable - mechanics can't find anything wrong. Did you ever find out what the problem was?
  • nh_taurusnh_taurus Posts: 2
    Good Morning, All.

    Hopefully, someone can help with this ...

    Recently, I have had problems restarting my 2001 Ford Taurus, after I have been driven it for a while. I first noticed the problem when doing errands around town. I start the car and drive to the first destination or two and car starts / restarts (sometimes a bit sluggishly). Once car seemed to warm up, it became harder to start. When i turn the key, the engine cranks VERY SLOWLY as if the battery is dying/dead. If i try to restart 2 or 3 times, i get no engine cranking noise at all.

    Last week, i went to get gas after driving about a 1/2 hour on the highway. When i went to turn the car back on, NOTHING. If i turn the key 3/4 of the way, the lights come on, the radio comes on, the windows can be put up and down, but when i turn the key to actually start the car, i HEAR NOTHING. The key turns to the end. After sitting about 20 - 30 min. the car did restart.

    The battery was replaced in November when i got the car (as was the air filter, spark plugs, etc). I just had some work done at the dealership (including new gas cap, coolant flush, etc) but have no idea why this is happening.

    Has this happened to anyone? Could it be the starter relay? The starter? Vapor Lock?
  • avneetavneet Posts: 3
    bro..
    ii am having the exact same problem with my 2001 taurus se... not able to diagnose...no clue... one thing i noticed... when u turn the key 3/4 ... a noise come... may be the fuel pump.. when it comes.. the car starts.. if not then it doenot.. try noticing it
  • nh_taurusnh_taurus Posts: 2
    yeah - when i turn key, lights come on, and i do hear the fuel pump noise (lol - i HOPE that is the fuel pump).

    Unfortunately, i got ready for work yesterday, and the car was DEAD. Fortunately it was in my driveway and not the gas station. AAA came calling and investigated. Tech was 99% sure it was the starter but had to be towed anyway.

    Sure enough, mechanic replaced the starter and now the car runs. All i need to do is repair / replace the other faulty components...

    So, maybe your starter is on the way out? As your symptoms are different than mine, then maybe not...

    thanks for the help and good luck
  • avneetavneet Posts: 3
    I am having a strange problem with my car. It smetimes starts ad sometimes doesnot. When i turn the key 3/4(dont crank) the lights come on and a noise come (i guess the fuel pump), the car starts.If this fuel pump noise doesnot come, the car starts momentarily and the then shuts off. After 4-5 attempts its just cranks and doesnot start. It doesnot give any problems after it has started. No other problems at all. I got the fuel pressure from the fuel pump checked by attaching the pressure meter and it was fine. Can anybody please help
  • gdickeygdickey Posts: 1
    2000 Taurus Wagon DOHC - just went over 200k miles. Over the past year, I have had problems with the serpentine belt jumping off. Every time that happens (sometimes within 30 - 60 days of a new belt), the belt has a lengthwise split or cut about 6 inches long. I have thought it jumped off / up on one of the pulley wheels and split or cut it on one of the ridges before it came off completely.

    NOW, I went to put a new belt on and the tool (15 mm socket) will not pull the tensioner to release tension. The instructions indicate pulling CCW to release tension, but that actually loosens the tension wheel so that it seems to be ready to come off. When I turn CW, the bolt tightens up some, but never seems to become completely tight and still does not pull the tension wheel forward to release tension and allow me to put on the belt.

    Am I missing something? Is there a nut inside the wheel that has come off? Is the tensioner shot? Did I turn it the wrong way? CW or CCW? The Haynes Manual I have does not seem to cover this situation.
  • imy x wife owns a 95 sable.there is a vacum line missing on the left side of the mass flow. where does it connect at. :confuse:
  • I have been studying what to do about my '96 Taurus 3.0 OHV concerning it not starting. I have taken it to a 'not so hot' mechanic here and they were total idiots about what is wrong. The engine was replaced with a brand new one in 2001. Not the wiring. It now has approx. 35,000 miles on it. It quit running, at 65mph, like it was running out of gas (full tank). I have checked for gasoline pressure at the injector bank, LOTS of pressure. Didn't check injectors themselves but when I pulled every sp. plug to check for spark (all had spark), they were wet and smelled of gasoline. So I assume (?) they were getting gas. The plugs (Rapid Fire) all looked very normal with no extraordinary buildup with only normal wear etc. 8000 miles on this set.
    The mechanic did a compression check without and then with oil in the cyls. Same readings 230, 245, 160 and 175. He did nothing else except put new spark plugs in. He said the engine was shot!! Frankly, I just don't believe this as there could be too many other things that could give low compressions.
    This engine has run and started perfectly (excepting a bad VSS which I replaced) since I got it in 2002.
    I would like to do more tests on it when I get it home,
    One being a Leakdown test. Only problem is I have never done one. Can anyone explain how this is done and can I do it or do I have to take it to another shop?
    Should I rule out a bad or jumped timing chain?
    What other tests should I do concerning this low compression?
    Since it won't start, all the tests so far have had to be done only while cranking the engine with the starter. Unfortunately the OBDII does not work so I have to check things the old fashioned way.
    If you can, please HELP!
    Thanks
  • I am a little late getting in, but my wifes car has the same smell. We had to change out the cabin air filter a couple of times. This seemed to get rid of the smell. There is something about that year of Taurus. The cabin air filter was put in a bad spot or something, but because of this it has to be changed out more often than usual. It took me a while to figure this out. They do not tell you this when you buy one.
  • dslok8ddslok8d Posts: 1
    any answer on the power seat issue I have the same problem on my 99
  • I am having trouble locating the transmission speed sensor on my 99 taurus 6cyl. can anybody please help
  • I realize this is in response to an old post, but did you ever solve this problem? I've taken the same steps as described and observe the same results.
  • I have a low compression in my no.1 cylinder along with a misfire. To repair the engine isn't worth the cost. Can I unplug that fuel injector so that the unfired fuel won't ruin the cat converter? If I do unplug it will the engine then send more fuel to the other injectors to make up for it sensing the no. 1 cylinder not getting anything?
  • I did exactly as you described & it worked. I can't thank you enough; I was borderline psychotic trying to get that link to fit (pushing, pulling, rocking the whole dam car trying to move that sway bar).

    Thanks.
  • tkem12tkem12 Posts: 5
    I need to get some info on how to change it out. Looks like it could be
    a hard one
  • I've done this and it's pretty simple. The computer module is part of the fuse panel. It's located above the drivers left foot. The fuse panel is actually 3 circuit boards with the fuses sticking out. On the side of the white plastic portion is a 5 digit number. That is the code. If the fuse panel/computer is replace you need to reprogram the key fobs and the door panel.

    I hope this helps, if you have questions let me know.

    Gary, from Houston
  • I have a 2003 Ford Taurus. The Heater won't run at all and I do have power in the main frame of the unit in the car. The lights come on in the heater, but I don't get heat or AC.

    Also, the rear driver door won't go down? Does anyone know if this is an electrical problem with a fuse, and which fuse to change? Are these issue related? Man it's getting cold here in Idaho, and I would rather fix this myself than drop $$$.

    Thank you,

    Halen 262
  • 2003 Taurus, intermittently has a dead electrical system. Nothing has juice - the remote door opener won't work, there is no chime, radio is dead etc., and the engine does not turn over; If I jump start the car, it's fine - for awhile. I've had it checked out, but as no one has seen it when it's actually 'dead', no idea what the problem is. New battery, starter. Today, my daughter called - same complaint - but she noted there seemed to be a 'clicking' in the car - though she couldn't isolate the source. Again, it started with a jump, and now seems fine.

    Any geniuses out there know what's up with this car? I'd appreciate it.
  • bigdan1bigdan1 Posts: 23
    The gas pedal sticks on my 2001 Sable. I step on the gas, get up to any speed, take my foot off gas pedal, and car stays at that speed. I have to hit brakes to slow down car or stop car. Cruise control is not on. Biggest deal is that problem is intermittent. Some days car is OK. Some days pedal sticks. With engine off, linkage seems OK when I move it by hand. Anybody else ever have this problem and how did you fix it? Thanks.
  • mr_almr_al Posts: 9
    No, I have been doing the "manual" way.... I am thinking of buying a new light switch.

    I did at one time disconnect every fuse block and all from under the dash (busted a few knuckles in process,

    Reconnected everything again, and EVERYTHING worked great for about a week, then the same stuff.

    Everything comes on but the headlights. I narrowed it down to either the switch or a relay. I bought the relay at dealer (not expensive), but have NO Idea where it is, and my manuals weren't too helpful.

    Sure would be nice. Car is working great otherwise. :confuse:
  • mr_almr_al Posts: 9
    I know there was a recall on these sometime ago if you had the sliding pedals. Not sure if that would be the case.

    never a problem on mine. Maybe this part was made by Toyota.

    I do soemtimes find my foot getting stuck between teh gas and break petal. (a bit weird)...

    Be safe. get it checked out.
  • krbestkrbest Posts: 1
    edited June 2010
    I have two 2003 Taurus. Both had water leaking into the trunk. I traced my problem and found the culprit to be the five black plastic fasteners which attach the bumper to the car. The are plug shaped with a philips head plastic screw in them. These plugs go through the metal right into the trunk cavity. You have to take off the black plastic cover that surrounds the opening for the trunck latch. This plate goes across the opening of the trunk and provides a trimmed finish. Takes this off and you will see the ends of these five, black plastic plugs sticking though the metal into the trunk area. The water runs along the outside on the top of the bumper and wickes its way underneath the heads of these plugs. These plugs are not providing a water tight seal and the water seeps in. I took these plugs out, coated them with clear silicone sealant, pushed them back into place and let silicone cure. I haven't had any water leaking into the runk since.
    I know others have said it's the seal around the trunk but I don't think so. There doesn't appear to be any logical way for the water to jump over the seal and into the trunk.
  • nasimnasim Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my 2001 Taurus for close to a year and a half. I changed all sensors, had a diagnostic check at the dealer that showed nothing, and still it is doing it. It happens only when the weather outside is hot and I have no problem in the winter when it is cold outside. The dealer said it could be the fuel pump but if it continues after replacing the fuel pump, then it's not the fuel pump. No one has a clear cut answer dor me on what it could be. When I turn the car off after driving it, I just noticed that my temperature gauge stays in the middle. Does this sound familiar to anyone else? Any suggestions and/or help? Every suggestion is appreciated. Thank you. I hope you are able to figure your problem out, too.
  • cal1975cal1975 Posts: 1
    Same thing on mine, no windows, radio, brake lights and stuck in park anybody have any ideas. Checked all fuses and they where all good.
  • 2004 SES came up with a pause or flat spot in the accelerator. Kinda bogged down from time to time.

    Replaced all catalytic converters because the mechanic felt it was back pressure. WRONG
    Replaced the fuel pressure regulator because the mechanic felt it was bad. WRONG
    New plugs. WRONG
    New fuel filter. WRONG
    Yadda Yadda Yadda.

    At times in a parking lot the RPM's will drop to 400, and the car will shake.
    On the highway, no particular speed, with or without cruise control, it'll seem as if you've let off the accelerator and sometimes the accelerator pedal will vibrate.
    Some times the engine RPM's will go up to 2800 to 3000 then drop back down, pushing the accelerator does nothing. Then suddenly it'll just reengage and take off. It's actually stalled once in stop and go traffic. Started up but took about 10 seconds.

    I get 28 mpg on the highway and have gotten as much as 34 driving from Red River, NM to Amarillo (where I refuel), so I'm really wanting to keep this but not if it's gonna get me stranded.

    No codes come up.

    Is there a GURU out there that can tell me what's wrong, what to check next or ?????

    Someone said it may be a vacuum leak but I'm not certain if this can be checked. If it's an intermittent leak how can it be found, if it is a vacuum leak.

    I'd pay for the right advise, no kidding.

    Doc
    stephenhaley@att.net if you want to send me any info.
  • The 3 button Trip Center on my Taurus has stopped doing anything except doing systems check and showing how many miles to empty plus total miles on the odometer.
    Is this a module problem or ?????

    If it needs to be replaced does the 3 button assembly pop out? pry out? or ?
    OR
    Is there a module somewhere else that needs to be checked?

    I really enjoyed this added feature and would like to get it working right or replace it to continue using it.

    Thanks
    Doc Haley
    stephenhaley@att.net if you want to send me any info.
  • I have a 98 sable, and while checking under hood today, I see a vac line broken/worn out. I am having trouble finding where it leads to. The line comes out of the firewall behind the strut mount on pass. side of engine compartment. It is anchored to the strut mount bolt, and goes to.....??
    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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