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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair



  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Cylinder Head
    Ford Taurus/Sable 1986-1995 Repair Information

    To install:

    14.Lightly oil all bolt threads before installation.
    15. Clean cylinder head, intake manifold, valve rocker arm cover and cylinder head gasket contact surfaces. If cylinder head was removed for a cylinder head gasket replacement, check flatness of cylinder head and block gasket surfaces.
    16. Position the new head gasket(s) onto cylinder block using dowels for alignment. Position cylinder head(s) onto block.
    17. Apply a thin coating of pipe sealant with Teflon® to the threads of the short cylinder head bolts, nearest to the exhaust manifold. Do not apply sealant to the long bolts. Install the cylinder head bolts.
    18. For vehicles through 1994, tighten the cylinder head attaching bolts, in sequence, to the following specifications:
    * Step 1:37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
    * Step 2:45 ft. lbs. (60 Nm)
    * Step 3:52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm)
    * Step 4:59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm)
    21. For 1993-95 vehicles, retighten the cylinder head bolts, in sequence, one at a time in the following manner:
    1. Long cylinder head bolts: Loosen the bolts and back them out 2-3 turns. Retighten to 11-18 ft. lbs. (15-25 Nm). Then tighten the bolt an additional 85-95° and go to the next bolt in sequence.
    2. Short cylinder head bolts: Loosen the bolt and back them out 2-3 turns. Retighten to 7-15 ft. lbs. (10-20 Nm). Then tighten the bolt an additional 85-95°.
  • II'll be watching for any responses to this myself; that's another problem with my 96 Sable sedan, this hot summer the A/C just started blowing hot air instead of cold. Can't tell if the compressor is on or not and have not had the freon level checked yet...Ithere are so many other things wrong with the car I figured I'd leave this one to next summer. :lemon:
  • Good for you. I dont believe in shooting horses just because they're lame either.
    My only problem, in Maryland, would be to pay insurance on a backup car AND a main car; insurance premium nearly doubles in my state for two cars and then of course there is the extra tag renewal fee...
  • Hmmm. makes me scratch my head too. Guess I just got lucky with my air filter fix; maybe the evil gremlins just coincidentally decided to go live in someone else's car...but they still left some family behind in other parts of my 96 Sable; it has multiple problems. :confuse:
  • Hi,

    1995 taurus SHO is making slight clicking or ticking noise just behind the climate control unit or maybe behind the center vents. This noise is present at all times while driving, parked and can be heard with climate control showing OFF. Don't know or can't tell is this noise is present when running heater or A/c but I am sure it is there.

    Also, recently noticed that a/c is not working as well as it should be. Heater works damn good and maybe this is a hint????

    ONly way to make this noise go away is to turn off the ignition. Previous owner mentioned it being some "heater door"

    Could this be something I can fix by removing the entire dashboard??

  • I would like to change the antifreeze in my 1999 Sable. I can't seem to find the drain plug. Sorry if this seems like a no-brainer. I have never had trouble finding the drain plug on any of my other vehicles. Detailed instructions would be appreciated. As you probably can tell, I am far from being a mechanic!
  • Many thanks for the reply! Since no bolts are exposed to coolant (all dead-end bolt holes), I would have though no sealant necessary. Was the source of your description the same as the link for the image (Autozone?).
  • podpod Posts: 176
    In my 2000 Sable LS Premium I can still turn on the headlamps by turning the console switch clockwise manually but the automatic sensing function has stopped after four years of faithful service. I suspect a sensor or fusing failure but don't know where to look. Is the sensor the black nickel sized thing on the center top of the dashboard right up against the windshield? Any ideas about how to diagnose this problem and restore the automatic function?
  • Recently my cars ABS has been kicking on at low speeds. The ABS light isn't always on but will come on once its been running for bit. I cleaned up the ABS sensors (one was full of metal shavings the other was clean.) but I did not attempt to clean up the wheel that spins behind it, didnt seem too dirty. After cleaning the sensors up I drove it home, roughly 5 miles without any problems, the light stayed on but brakes did not pulse. The next time I drove the car the ABS immediately started pulsing almost worse than they did before, is it possible they could have gotten dirty again so soon or am I looking at a bigger problem?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Remove the splash shield from the front of the front sub frame and body.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    To repair it properly you'll need an ABS capable scanner to retrieve any stored trouble codes, then monitor wheel speed sensor inputs to the ECU.
  • Just recently got a 92 Taurus, a few problems. 1st off, as I shift into reverse and step on the gas it makes a little thud, my hunch is motor mounts. Also my oil light comes on as I am at a stop light and as i go, it turns off. There is also little "clunks" at the tires as I am going over bumps or divets on the street. Thats it for now... Please help me out...
  • I had a Mitsubishi Eclipse with a similar problem, and it turned out to be the ECU. Who knows about the SHO though. I had a 93 SHO atx for two years and had no such problem.

  • I would say the "clunk" at the tires points at a problem in the strut assemblies. I have an 89 Camry that does the same thing--sure enough, had it checked out, struts were bad.

    Have you checked your oil level?? Sounds like it may be low. If not, you either have a low oil pressure situation or the oil pressure sensor itself may be bad.

  • I just purchase a 2005 Taurus that is really clean. The front end thumps alot. I took it to a local mechanic and he said that it was normal. What's that mean? :(
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    Clunks at front end could be sway bar links need replacing. Not particularly costly to fix.
  • hey rabodzey,
    I saw that you had a post about your taurus. Right now mine is over heating it was only here and there with the a/c on and now its like anytime i drive. I thougth it was the thermostat and so i canged it. Still overheats and now it seems like its the water pump. I was told its a pain in the butt to change it out ones self. So i was wondering what it would take to get it changed like any special tools or any if i have to raise or lower the engin (Had to put an alternator in and it was a pain). My taurus is a 1996 3.0L with the dohc. Just looking for suggestions.
    Cole :cry:
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Simple job with the DOHC engine:

    Ford Taurus/Sable 1996-1999 Repair Guide
    Water Pump, 3.0L DOHC Engine

    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the engine cooling system.
    2. Remove the water pump drive belt.
    3. Disconnect the radiator and heater hoses from the water pump.
    4. If equipped, remove the A/C compressor-to-water pump brace.
    5. Unfasten the four nuts securing the water pump to the engine and remove the water pump.

    To install:

    6. Clean the water pump to engine gasket sealing surfaces.
    7. Install the water pump using a new gasket and install the four retaining nuts. Tighten the retaining nuts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).
    8. Connect the radiator and heater hoses to the water pump. Make sure the clamps are securely tightened.
    9. If equipped, install the A/C compressor-to-water pump brace. Tighten the brace bolts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).
    10. Remove the water pump drive belt.
    11. Fill the engine cooling system, then connect the negative battery cable.
    12. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature, then check for coolant leaks and proper engine operation.
  • I have a question regarding replacing the power motor and quides on a 1997 Ford Taurus.

    The arm that is connected to the motor has a knuckle that snaps into a plastic guide that slides in a track on the window. I was able to pry the two apart when I disassembled it but can not get the knuckle to snap back into the guide. Is there a trick to this? There was no other way of removing the motor and arm assembly from the window without prying the two apart.

    Thanks in advance.
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