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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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  • I have a 98 sable, and while checking under hood today, I see a vac line broken/worn out. I am having trouble finding where it leads to. The line comes out of the firewall behind the strut mount on pass. side of engine compartment. It is anchored to the strut mount bolt, and goes to.....??
    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • Have a very strange situation with my Taurus. Recently, the engine started to stall when I engage either power lock or automatic windows. When engine stalls the illuminating lights inside go on with the doors closed???? When I turn the ignition switch off and open the door some strange buzzing noise comes from the driver side door. While this buzzing is going, if I try to start the engine starter spins but engine doesn’t start. Then after closing and re-opening the door and randomly pushing buttons that buzzing noise stops and I am able to start the car again without problems. Tried to disconnect the central lock and power windows by pulling the fuses, but was unsuccessful – was either pulling the wrong fuses or it didn’t have an effect (diagram stated to pull fuses 6 and/or 8).
    Your help in resolving the issue is appreciated.
  • My RPM's drop when slowing or in stop and go traffic. The car has turned off on me several times and I have no problem restarting. When driving on the hwy I have no issues until I have to slow. I just recently changed the PCV valve, the plugs, the wires, the air filter, and have used the intake cleaner. My gas pedal seems like it is harder to push while driving. Does anyone know what type of issues that I am facing and can you help me out here?

    Thanks
  • Hi,i worked on a friends 2000 ford taurus today to try and fix an issue with no heat.The water pump is new,i put a new thermostat in but still no heat.The engine operates with normal range,i know the blend door is operating but still no heat.I did notice the inlet to the heater core is hot but outlet is cold.I have read on here that this is quite common.So i guess a backflush on the heater core is next on my list.Any suggestions on the easiest way to do this?Just trying to help a friend out,any input would be helpful.Thanks
  • Had the same problem normal back flush wouldn't work, this is what I did, aqquied some long matching hose enough to hang over the side of the vehicle connect both lengths to the core direct, bit of a struggle then I used a pressure washer first one way then the other once the muck starts to move just keep at it till it comes out freely in either direction, my heater now is unbelievelably hot not, not enough presure from a garden hose to do it.
  • camshaft synchronizer ford taurus

    I was wondering why a dealership or other repair shops are asking $300.00 + to replace a camshaft synchronizer for a ford taurus , it looks fairly easy to get to and only 2 screws , other than setting the timing after installing it , the part is only a $60.00 part
  • zukpprzukppr Posts: 1
    Had the same problem with my 98 Taurus... After thermostat was replaced it continued blowing nothing but cold air. Had a mechanic come to the house and he totally flushed out the heater core. It's worked great ever since. Good Luck!
  • 2003 Taurus 3.0L with about 85,000 miles ,engine surges. Does Not do it all the time, but lately more often. While cruising along perhaps 25 mph the car will surge forward for a split second.
    I've noticed it faster than about 25 mph (around 40 mph) but you can feel it more going slower.
    What could cause this?

    Danford1
  • the PCV valve is actually not under the throttle body. It is on the passenger side of the engine right on top. There is a vacuum line that runs across the front side of the engine and that is where it runs into the throttle body. Hope it helps.
  • I have a 2000 Taurus with a 24V DOHC and got a P0171 & P0174 error codes about running lean. The car runs rough cold - rpm goes 2,00 then down to 500 then stalls out - 3 or 4 times im 10 minutes. after it gets warm its ok and runs 700-800 rpm when idle. I cleaned EGR value, replaced PCV, changed air filter, I checked for vacum leaks - didn't notice any and still getting code. Previously i got a 1506 Idle over speed error and replaced Idle Air control and it came back but went away with the PCV replacement, but now i will get the P171 P174 sometimes. Any ideas to what maybe causing this. This problem seemed to get worse when firestone put 5W20 oil in the car on the last oil change instead of the usual 5w30 the car has always used.
  • mattyg79mattyg79 Posts: 1
    edited January 2011
    I have a 2000 Taurus with 101,000 miles on it and the power steering went. I replaced the pump and it still has no power steering! It’s a little better turning to the right but not much. I don’t think it’s the rack, the wheel isn’t binding up or sloppy it’s just a complete upper body workout to turn it. If anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate it.
  • I have the same problem with my 2001 Mercury Sable LS. It started back about 5 months ago. I would start the car with no problems. The car would go thru about a 2 min cycle on a higher idle and then when it was over the rpms would drop down to 500 like yours does. It would act like there was no gas and jerk or lunge causing lights to dim and brighten because the engine was surging on and off. Finally it seemed like the computer figured out a problem and would increase gas and the rpms would go back up. The check engine light didn't appear for a couple of weeks. When it did it showed the infamous P0171 & P0174 bank 1 and 2 lean. I replaced the Mass Air Flow sensor and it did nothing. Then I saw a posting on another site about the PCV valve elbow where it goes into the intake manifold. The elbow is smooth rubber and collapses causing vacuum problems. Sure enough mine was totally collapsed. The part was only 25.00 at the Ford Dealership and I had it put on. It actually seemed better for a while. I thought that would be the end of it. But about 1 week after the codes reappeared and the same symptoms as well. All this time since it started back 5 months ago I've had horrible gas mileage. I wish there was a way to check the whole vacuum system for problems because that is where seems to still be after reading tons of postings. I'm not sure if it is in the intake manifold gasket itself or some vacuum line. I'm frustrated and very leery of replacing 02 sensors because it seems unlikely that they are both bad at the same time. Let me know if you find anything out. Thanks
  • I bought some electronic cleaner and sprayed the Mass Air Flow sensor down, and the connections to that and the throttle position sensor and the rough idle went down big time, but is still slightly there when cold. If your still getting that code, you can try to spray your EGR and Idle air control with some air intake cleaner. If that doesnt fix it the only only things could image would be the DPFE sensor or fuel pressure regulator and if that doesnt fix it its time for a trade in.
  • After posting my problem on another site I took their advice and took it to a repair garage that had a smoke machine. They found that the intake manifold gasket was leaking causing too much air being sucked in. If the two codes P0171 and P0174 (bank #1 and #2 Lean) then it most definitely a vacuum problem. I actually had two vacuum problems. The pcv elbow was collapsed and the intake manifold gasket needed replaced. I had them replace the other vacuum lines when they had it apart because my car has 146,000 miles and the rubber is old. Now my car runs awesome with no lean codes. No more choking out when engine is cold. After the initial idle when the tach drops down I am no longer getting a bad fuel to air mixture that used to make the car lunge and the lights flicker because there wasn't enough fuel to make up the difference of the air intake and it was all after the Mass Air Sensor. Hope this helps someone.
  • My 2003 Sable scared the crap out of my dog (literally). When this happened I fumbled around for a while trying to figure out what to do. I stumbled onto the idea that the key fob has a panic button - so I pressed that - nothing. I pressed it again and mercifully the racket stopped. Did I mention I was in my garage at the time? I think I may be going deaf, my ears are still ringing. After cleaning up the dog mess I experimented a little and found that this seems to happen no matter which door I open - but fortunately I can stop it right away by two presses of the panic button.

    We have been having a very cold and snowy winter so I'm suspecting some ice (or ice melt) may be causing the problem. My garage is unheated and last time I checked, the thermometer was at 12 F. Any suggestions what to look at or do next? (short of driving to the dealer).

    Thanks.
  • 2001 Ford Taurus check eng light on with a DTC P0402.This happens about every 2.5 years and I replace the Backpressure sensor and that will take care of it. Is this normal on this year? We brought it new and now has 58,000 + miles (wife car) I have had 2 other Taurus a 1996 with over 200,000 miles and a 2003 with 170,000 miles and have never replace that part. Purchase the part at Advance Auto Parts should I get Ford parts?
    Brownboot
  • lucaselucase Posts: 1
    It's your battery terminals. I had the same problem. Change those and you will have no problem.
  • eftianeftian Posts: 1
    These posts were helpful thx

    What I did was to jack up the back as high as I could with the floor jack with the tire still on then I put some 2x8 scrap wood 3 pcs stacked up under the tire so the right rear would settle securely, then lowered the jack and with about 6" of wood only under one tire the spring was compressed enough to easely pop the old one off and plenty of room to work with the new one.
  • My accelerator is sticking on my 2004 Taurus. Sometimes I'll let my foot off the gas and the RPMs will still be over 2000. It really worries me at times, especially when I'm in traffic or at a stop light. It doesn't do it all the time, but has been happening more often. Any thoughts?
  • I have the Bose speakers in the corner of the window on the inside of the mirror mount. Are there any differences to removing that speaker to get to the mount for the mirror?
  • silver3bsilver3b Posts: 3
    My 1994 ended up with the same problem, car stalls out and won't start. Loud buzzing sound from door on driver side. I'm ordering a new relay, it's in the door, I followed the buzzing sound to find it. It's a small relay on a PC board that's clattering.
  • silver3bsilver3b Posts: 3
    It turned out to be a small window control relay module located inside driver's door. It would make a buzzing noise intermittently and not allow power to the fuel pump. When I installed the new relay the car started right up, installing the old relay would not allow the car to start. I have no idea how it's connected or the why. I tried to follow the wiring diagram but could not figure out why or how the defective relay would NOT allow power to the fuel pump. The relay is about $90 at a Ford place. I stopped into a used auto wrecking yard and purchased one for $5.
  • bmangbmang Posts: 1
    My Sable Wagon cranks but will not start. Symptom: While I was cranking the other day, it was just about to fire up when I heard a click, after which it would crank but not start.

    I have read other postings hear which indicate that it might just be the battery and I will try that first.

    However, I havea feeling that my problem might be elsewhere. I had assumed that the clicking meant that some computer relay had just gone kaput and that I would have to tow it in to get it put on the machine to see where the problem lies.

    Thanks in advance for any suggestions?

    Bmang
  • bigboy11bigboy11 Posts: 8
    I have been experiencing choppy ties, Is it due to a needed strut replacement or allingnment, I also have a question about a hard shift I have it isn't hard but noticeable, the front of my car seems to bobble around but all new joints barings an tie's rack is ok, maybe a mount , need help please, I know it is alot at once...thank u...
  • bonnied1bonnied1 Posts: 1
    were you able to get this fixed? I have the same problem with a 1997 ford taurus. drivers side window is stuck in down position and i have the part but we cant figure out how to switch old with new part if you can help I'd greatly appreciate it!! thanks!!
  • aaronsjaaronsj Posts: 2
    Hello,

    I have a 2002 Taurus and the cooling fan continues to run after I turn off the ignition. I have changed the relays, changed the fuses and replaced the coolant temperature sensor but the problem persists.

    Anyone have any suggestions?

    Thanks,
    -Aaron
  • I've a 2005 Mercury Sable.
    We discovered when the heater and fan is running, there was a rattle and smoke!
    We discovered that one of the three caps(?) on the A/C compressor had come loose, and that's where the smoking was coming from. It finally came off, and the inside is melted.
    Then, after that one came off, a 2nd one popped right off!

    What's happening? Why in the world would 2 of these caps come off on their own like that? And what caused them to melt inside? Is there some moving part they're covering?

    Background:
    This started last night after we took a sharp curve to the left too fast. All of a sudden that's when the noise and smell started. Did that cause it to shift? Is it migrating off it's bolts? Is it about to come loose and crash around?

    Additional note:
    I have no idea if this is related, if it's bad or nothing... I may be paranoid, but it seems to me that the spinning pulley part on the compressor is wobbling just a teeny bit against the pink bushing or gasket (?) that's between the pulley and the three capped bolts. However, those three bolt ends and the plate at the end don't appear to move at all.

    Anyway, thanks for any suggestions or advice!
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