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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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  • jrejre Posts: 6
    My daughter let someone jump start another car with the 96 Taurus and she said they got the jumper cables crossed. She says there was a loud pop from under the fuse box at the front of the car.
    The battery light is on in the dash but the alternator checks good and the car has a new battery installed.
    Now the speedometer does not work, the air does not work and there is no amps getting to the battery from the alternator.
    Everything else appears to work and the car starts and runs good.
    All the fuses in the power distribution box appear to be good.
    Is there a relay in the box or another fuse that I should check?
    Thanks for any help. jre
  • jrejre Posts: 6
    I left out one other problem and that was that the radio does not work. Thanks for any help, jre
  • I'm looking at buying a 1995 Taurus LX from a private owner. The car has 80,000 miles, and is in excellent condition. The only problem I have is it has the 3.8 engine, with which I have heard and read, is notorious for blowing head gaskets. Since 1995 was the last year for this engine in Taurus', I was curious if Ford ever remedied this problem before the engine was discontinued. Is there a TSB, or other procedure that was addressed to make the engine more reliable. The owner of the vehicle states he has never had a problem with head gaskets going bad. I just hate to purchase this car, and then have to invest in costly engine repairs. And would anyone know what head gasket repairs usually cost on this engine?
  • This solution will cost you, but you have a couple freeze plugs within the bell houseing. when you are looking at the engine it will be to the right of your engine and about your starter. right next to the trans, these will all be connected. Her comes the fun, each freeze plug cost $.93, but you have to have your engine pulled to get to the freeze plugs in the bell housing. Sorry. While your at it, you may wish to replace your oil pan, I would say it's rusted out.

    Here is my thought on what happened here. The Water Pump (original) is the fault, Ford in there wonderful saving money and giving themselves those great bounas. The Pump RUSTS out and now you have rust fragments running through engine. This is why you probably had orange looking Anti Freeze. So, it gets to the freeze plugs and they begin to fails, little by little and then something happends. something like a thermostat fails and then you have some pressure and bingo your screwed.

    Your are looking at 8 Hours of labor to pull everything and then the cost of your parts. As I stated replace your oil pan and gaskit, etc.

    Hope this information helps.
  • It is throwing a misfire in cylinder 1-3-5 codes. I am replacing all the plugs and wires, and egr valvue. Is there any thing else I shoudl do while I am at it?
    What had me check the codes is the motor wont shift out of second, could this be the problem or is there something else also.
  • jrejre Posts: 6
    You were 100% correct on the fuse link by the power distribution box. The alt. and air now work and the only two things not working are 1. speedometer and 2. the radio. The 5 amp fuse under the dash for the radio was blown and a replacement did not make it work. I can live without the radio but must have the speedometer working with those Alabama troopers sitting along the roadway with radar guns pointing both directions.
    Now I believe every fuse in the system is good. Are there any relays involved in these two items?
    Thank you, I really appreciate your help.
    jre
  • Luckily, I only have 2 other problems (both minor annoyances), so I can live with them.

    I'm just sorry that I got rid of my '90 Taurus. It only had 187k when I replaced it with this Sable. I had never had ONE problem with the car. In fact, it was still getting ~30mpg, and I had almost 80k on the last set of tires. Wifey was afraid of me breaking down in the fast lane of NJ Turnpike, so issued sex ultimatum about replacing it!!!
  • Just purchased a 2001 Taurus SES with 69000 miles on it.While test driving prior to purchase heard a clunking noise coming from the suspension.Had a mechanic put the car on a lift and check it. He noted that the sway bar (stabilizer bar?) ends had been replaced,still had the tags hanging on the parts,probably in an attempt to fix the noise.
    He was not positive what was causing the noise but felt it was probably the front struts and quoted a price of appox. $400 to replace the struts and something else attached to or near them,I forget what the name of the part is.He said he wouldn't know for sure until he "got it apart".
    My question is,after doing a search here I have seen this noise mentioned with varying degrees of sucess in fixing it.Just looking for others experience with this problem,I'm willing to part with the money if it will fix the problem but don't want to spend $400 if it is still going to make noise afterwards.
    Also felt a vibration in the steering wheel when applying the brakes at high speed,mechanic said pads looked alright,he said it was probably rotors,which seems to make sense.Was just wondering if this vibration was related to the clunking noise or not.
  • My car is
    1999 Ford Taurus Station Wagon
    24 ohv 3.0 liter engine, 72,000 miles floor mounted automatic transmission shift
    Problem: on an intermittent basis, after driving the car, making a stop or two doing errands before getting home for the day, I get in the car and the starter motor turns the engine over but the engine will not start. This has always happened in warm to hot weather. After sitting for about 30 to ninety minutes the engine starts. I know that it is not the barometric module because the gas mileage is normal (almost 20 miles/gal) . I have had the barometric module fail twice prior to the failure of the barometric module the gas mileage falls to 10 miles/gal or less. I checked the emergency fuel switch no problem, Any ideas?
  • 98 ford tuarus with no heat but has A/C and cool air from vent. Car has a new Rad and the cooliant level is good. Changed the thermostat still no warm air. Any ideas ?
  • 3 possible problems.
    96 thru 99 models.
    Thermostat required has a small ball bearing which is a bleed valve that must be positioned at the top of the thermostat. If the system does not bleed the air out it will trap air and not allow coolant flow. My mechanic did not even put the right stat in.
    (2) Back flush the heater core and see what comes out ( common problem )
    (3) Water pump fins can actually be corroded to the point of nonexistence and the engine wont overheat but you wont have enough flow to have heat inside vehicle.
  • how do you back flush the heater core. Also I have heard that it could be the damper motor ?
  • About 4 months ago I bought a 1990 Sable wagon with the 3.8L V6, had about 123,000 miles on it, never any head gasket issues that the owner knew of, but now it is sitting in my backyard with a blown head gasket. I have yet to price out the repairs, but generally assume the estimates in the range of $500-1,000 minimum sounds like a decent benchmark. I have read that Ford has an extended warranty for the 1994 and 1995 engines for 7 years or 100,000 miles, so you should be safe for awhile with that 95, even if the head gasket does blow in the near future.
  • speedometer erratic between 0-40 and transmission slips between 1st and 2nd gear and then will run fine. Sometime speedometer stays at 0 then when is starts working car car runs fine after that. Transmission fluid is clean and full. The problem starts when car has been driven a long time. Help do I need a new transmission. Had a diagnostic test done and the camshaft sensor and the o2 sensor came up. Have been told speed control sensor does this have any affect on the transmission slipping or just the speedometer
  • 97 Ford Taurus, Vulcan Engine. The idler pulley and belt broke this week, repaired for $250 bucks on Tuesday. Now I have coolant leaking out of the engine, is this the freeze plug where the coolant is streaming out?

    image

    This is not good."
  • A quick way to check the heater core is bring the engine up to running temp and check how hot the to heater core hoses are. they should both be hot. If one is cooler than the other suspect the core is plugged.

    Locate the 2 heater hoses going into the firewall ( about 3/4" hoses).
    You can find an adaptor to connect the hose to hose connection or you can duct tape the together.
    remove from the intake or any convenient place.
    Attach a garden hose to one end and run water thru the core.
    run water thru for about 1/2 hour
    It helps to catch the water coming out of the other hose in a bucket to see what comes out.
    When you flush in the normal direction of flow probably not much sedimate will come out but when you flush the system thru the other hose it will dislodge and show up in the bucket.
    I had to back flush one of my sables 3 times over a two week period to correct this problem.
    In reference to the damper doors its possible but if your defrosters/dash vents/ and floor vents change with the switch control not very likely.
  • rmk1rmk1 Posts: 1
    Over the last 2 months, the climate control fan has become intermittent. Many days it does not come on at all; other days it works fine (all speeds, auto or manual). I have checked the fuse and relay - both are ok. Where to look next?
  • Battery acted like it had a cell going bad. Would not start right after being driven, but would start after it cooled down for an hour or two. Acts like a dead battery, as it won't begin to turn the starter. I had the battery and alternator tested and both passed load testing. I went ahead and replaced the battery a month ago. Now have the same symptoms again. Ground is good, and cables don't appear to be corroded. Any suggestions?
  • Have someone do a starter draw test and see how many amps the starter is pulling.
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