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Hyundai Santa Fe Basic Maintenance Questions



  • The filler cap on both our 2007 Santa Fe and Tuscan clearly states use 5/20 oil. Some dealers and quick lube places use bulk 10W30 oil if you don't keep an eye on them + as I had previously mentioned that the quick lube places do not have the oil filter that Hyundai uses on the 3.3 Liter Engine.

    The following web site has quite a bit of info on oil and other maintenance related items.

    Link To Oil Info

    I think that any SM GF4 5W20 oil will work well for 3,000 mile changes.
  • aqateanaqatean Posts: 1
    My friends, does anyone reads manuals anymore. It states that HYUNDAI recommends "Quaker State", you can use 5W-20, 5W-30 or 10W-30, I believe the thickness depends of where you live; I just replace my wife's 2007 Santa Fe SE (at 3000 Miles) oil with 10W-30 because we live in Houston, I could not believe it when I saw the old oil, it was very dark, so I hope next oil change (6000 Miles) looks a little cleaner with the type I just put. As for the Oil filter, I did not replace it because I couldn't find it, next time I will thanks to a tip in this website. I check around and STP and Frame has it, you can get it Autozone and Walmart, it is a cylinder that looks as it is an air filter-no metal case. Personaly, I won,t spend extra money in doing this type of maintenance. Good luck! :shades:
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,010
    We just kicked around oil changes and the "3,000 mile oil change myth" over in the CR-V maintenance discussion. And you can't tell out how dirty your oil is simply by looking at it. Many of us do what the manufacturer recommends. :shades:

    terryp1, "Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair" #5317, 11 May 2007 1:45 pm

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  • davesuvdavesuv Posts: 149
    Difficult question since so much is dependent on your driving style. With over 8000 miles on my tires, they show very little wear. I anticipate well over 30 thousand miles before they need replacement. I will likely replace them sooner, just to get a tire with better traction ratings for safety reasons.

    I've never had any vehicle that required brake pad replacement prior to 80,000 miles. Then, I always use a light touch on the brakes (unless one of the many crazy drivers on the road forces something a little more drastic :) ). I have no reason to expect differently with the Santa Fe.

    2007 Santa Fe AWD Limited with Premium and Touring packages
    Dark Cherry Red with beige leather interior
  • flwonderflwonder Posts: 33

    How are you caring for the beige leather interior?
    I love the beige but feel like it would be a
    nightmare to keep clean along with the beige carpet.

    Any thoughts?

  • jcwsbltdjcwsbltd Posts: 167
    If you have the beige carpet, I found a great looking set of similar colored floormats at Walmart for $24-95 iwth a darker beige insert that looks like they were meant for the car.
    I also found a cheap light brown floor mat big enough for the cargo area.

    I had leather on my old SUV which was a Taupe shade and it wore pretty well . I just used proprietary leather cleaner and conditioner on it, which worked just fine.
  • jcwsbltdjcwsbltd Posts: 167
    Thanks for the reply, Davesuv.After having read such useful stuff in these posts, It's always a pleasure to exchange experiences - it helps the learning curve for us all.

    I was hoping for 50K miles for these tires with regular rotations at 5k or so. The 18" tires are more expensive to buy.

    My last set of tires on a front wheel drive SUV obviously wore most on the front set,which I also had to replace at 35k. I had another set put on at 70k, so both sets lasted for 35k. I could have pushed them further, as they had just a small amount of tread left before the markers, but that's just not worth it. I shall have more regular rotations on the S.F.
  • lv2drvlv2drv Posts: 132
    flwonder, I know you asked davesuv but I can't help myself. I bought Leather Master cleaning and conditioning products. I haven't used the cleaner yet as I conditioned the leather right away. We are using those plastic mats with the deep tread that traps the snow, dirt and water to protect the carpet. Our SF came with the plastic liner and it stays in place at all times. There are frequent heel and shoe marks on the threshold so I use the Mr. Clean Magic eraser for these. Works like a charm! I'm always cleaning and babying my baby. My husband probably thinks I'm obsessed, but he's sweet to never say anything.
  • davesuvdavesuv Posts: 149
    I also really like the brighter interior of the beige leather. It, together with the sunroof, give a very open feel to the vehicle. Just like lv2drv, I like to try to take care of my interior. Kind of surprising for me since I've never bothered about it too much with my prior cars. There's something about this Santa Fe that gives me that extra incentive.

    I use Meguiar's Gold Class Rich Leather Cleaner/Conditioner (comes in a spray bottle) on my leather seats. It does a nice job of taking any dirt off and keeping the leather soft. For most other surfaces, I use a product called Tech Stain Remover ( web site ). It's safe for the surfaces and does a nice job on stains. My wife really likes it for around the house.

    I bought a nice set of rubberized floor mats in a tan color that goes nicely with the beige interior. My SF came with the Hyundai ones, but I find from past cars that the lighter color carpet type floor mats quickly get dirty and are tough to keep looking nice (I've always had beige interiors). So I took the original ones out from the front and replaced them with a set of heavy duty tan rubber SUV-sized mats with deep grooves (bought them at Meijer). They fit perfectly without trimming. Now I can just take them out and hose them off and scrub them when I wash the car and they look great. I even cut out a hole in each mat to fit over the retention pin in the floor. For the second row, I just put the smaller rear seat tan rubber mats on top of the Hyundai mats. I did not get anything extra for the third row and just use the Hyundai mat there since it is rarely used. I have the Hyundai cargo tray to protect the rear cargo space floor.

    So far, my interior still looks like brand new :shades:

    2007 Santa Fe AWD Limited with Premium and Touring packages
    Dark Cherry Red with beige leather interior
  • flwonderflwonder Posts: 33

    Thanks for your help. Sounds like you
    are taking good care of the light interior.

  • flwonderflwonder Posts: 33
    Thanks davesuv. I knew I could count on
    you for the answer. I have used the heavy,
    expensive mats on my last two cars. Got them
    from McNeils. They do a good job. Looks
    like the light beige will require a bit more
    maintenance but worth it.

  • kdahlquistkdahlquist Posts: 130
    Brake pad replacement intervals vary greatly from vehicle to vehicle, environment to environment, and from driver to driver. Typically, heavier vehicles will go through brake pads more quickly than lighter vehicles. Front pads wear more quickly than rears, and cars with more front weight bias will wear the fronts even more rapidly (pickup trucks, for example, burn front pads very quickly because they are heavy vehicles with a large proportion of the weight on the front, so the rear brakes don't do much at all). If you drive mostly in stop-and-go urban traffic, you'll wear a lot more quickly than someone who drives long stretches on the highway or rural roads with few intersections. Finally, how much you use the pads will make a difference. If you drive smoothly and let your car slow down gradually (rather than carrying a lot of speed into corners and stops and then braking hard), you'll wear your pads more slowly.

    That said(tm), I've seen front pads need replacement as early as 20,000 miles (rarely) and as late as 100,000. Replacement of front pads in the 50-75,000 mile range is fairly typical. I start checking mine periodically once I hit 40,000 miles.
  • mak259mak259 Posts: 1
    I just changed the oil in my 2007 v6 Santa Fe today after finding out where the oil filter was from the previous post.
    To add to it, remove the 4 nuts and 2 bolts from the plastic cover (use a 10mm socket) and remove the cover.
    The oil filter is under a large black round cover on the right side, close to the air intake.
    Spin it off by hand or use a regular oil filter wrench. The Fram CH9999 filter came with new o-rings for the end of the shaft, that the oil filter goes over, and the cap.
    I used Castrol Syntec 5W-30 (also available in 5W-20).
    I changed the oil at 6500 miles (manual recommends 7500).
    I think the "every 3000 mile" campaign is a scam.
  • gizzer777gizzer777 Posts: 336
    Last week I had an oil chg at the dealer on my 3.3L 2007 SE Santa Fe. I asked what weight Pennzoil they used and they replied 5W30! When I asked why they said it was because of the wild temp swings we have...(summers are usually 50's night and up around 100 or higher in the day, that was why. You rarely even see a cloud in the summer

    Winters are usually low 20's or high teens nights and low 50's in the day . High Desert of Reno Nevada (about 5000ft level at my house)

    Their reply sounded reasonable, that because of the severe temp swings we have here

    They only chg $32 so I figured why mess with it for that price...I am used to doing my own...(gotta protect that warranty...No squiggle room for anyone!!)

    BTW: there are TWO Castroil synthetics...the common one is made here and is not the same high quality as the German one...the common one is marked for use in the USA only on the back. I think Pep boys carries the higher grade Castroil Synthetic (Used to drive a Mini Cooper and found out on their forum! With the heat thrown out by that little supercharged wanted to use the good stuff!

    if they try it on the winter oil chg, I am bringing my own 5W20 with me. That would make for easier starting and better engine running in the cold of winter here, although we usually have low 50's day and low 20's nights in the winter....this year it got down to -2 a few times!!!! I had a Honda Element then and it used 5w20...glad it did since it took quite a while to warm that 4 banger up to running temp at that ambient temp! (I kept it in my garage too, where the SF now resides)

    BTW: My dealer is a good one and has been very cooperative. I showed up 4 months after purchase, the GM walked by and actually remembered my name when he stopped to chat! Then and again, maybe it is because it took 4 trips and numerous phone calls to sell me...(thanks to this forum!) he even remembered the Element I traded :shades:

  • gizzer777gizzer777 Posts: 336
    I forgot to mention that we have terrible UV here in Reno that will fade out leather, vinyl, plastics, rubber and just about anything. In the summer, you rarely even see a single cloud!!!! The higher you go, the more UV on your interior

    I learned about 303 Protectant when I had my all leather Mini Cooper. It does not leave a visible trace, and works like a charm. You can usually get it at Hot tub stores or RV places and it is well worth the $$.

    With Leather, I would first use Connaly (spelling?) Hide Food conditioner and then after it dried, put the 303 over it. Hide Food conditioner is recommended by Rolls Royce if that means anything...the leather in the Mini Cooper was Cordova and very soft and supple....we took many trips to the mountains at over 7500 ft and the leather never showed a trace of cracking or color fade. There were Minis in our group, where the Vinyl or leather had obviously not been treated to anything and it showed....No, I do not work for them either! :)

    We all (we had a great Mini Cooper Club) took a great deal of pride in the Mini's detailing and I used the 3 step Mequires wax system with a porter cable random orbital polisher...If you are REALLY into it...use a CLAY BAR before will come out like a baby's behind...Of course the SF is a BIT bigger to wax than the Mini was :)
  • somedai1somedai1 Posts: 416
    the manual says it is ok to use 5w30 as an alternative anyway...
  • gizzer777gizzer777 Posts: 336
    Thanks somedai1...I saw that but I still want 5W20 in the winter time! Not looking for alternatives unless I have no choice!!!
  • jcwsbltdjcwsbltd Posts: 167
    Anyone have any preferences about prtotecting new paint on our Santa Fe's? When I asked about waxing/UV protectant at the auto supply shop, the rep. said when it comes to a new car, don't even use the automatic car wash for at least a year - hand wash it only with a mild car soap.
    That's great if it's only 72 deg. outside - not 108.

    Has anyone already done a paint protectant treatment? - results? Good/bad? Does it invalidate the warranty on the finish? When WOULD be agood time to do it - Phoenix has high UV and 355 days a year full sunshine - 10 days of rain a year if we're lucky.

    Any info greatly appreciated.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,010
    Wax is for glamour, not protection. :shades:

    Mr_Shiftright, "Teflon Paint Sealants Revisited" #7, 10 Jul 2003 10:33 am

    There's a lot of posts about various kinds of wax (and paint protection is generally wax) you may want to skim over in Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts) while waiting for responses in here. And check out Paint and Body Maintenance & Repair too.

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  • mpuzachmpuzach Posts: 635
    ...NEVER take it to a car wash. It will come back with swirls and spiderweb scratches after one trip through. I've had excellent success using the Mr. Clean AutoDry System, microfiber cloths, and an electric leaf blower. The Mr. Clean System is a $20 item (Target, Wal Mart) that provides a final rinse with deionized water; you simply wash (with microfiber cloth), rinse (with regular water), do a final rinse with deionized water, then let the car air dry. The end result is a clean car with ZERO waterspots and ZERO spiderweb scratches. (After the final rinse, I use the leaf blower to blow off 95% or so of the remaining water; this helps to ensure that there won't be any spots.)

    We have 3 cars, all less than 2 years old. The above procedure is the only one that's ever been used on any of our cars. All 3 cars are completely free of spiderweb scratches. The keys are:

    Washing in a shaded area
    Using the Mr. Clean AutoDry System
    Using only clean microfiber cloths to wash
    Rinsing the cloth in a bucket of plain water after washing each section of the car
    Letting the car air dry (use of leaf blower is OK) so that nothing comes in contact with finish during drying
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