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Ford Expedition Air Conditioning Questions

cougltcouglt Posts: 2
i've got an 02 eddie bauer. this weekend i began to notice a smell coming from the a/c when you first turn it on. it also takes longer for the system to get to an acceptable cool temp. definitely different than normal.

i go to walmart and buy a canister of refrigerent with attached gauge connector hose and i can't find the port to connect the connector to. i have a jeep wrangler and readily found the correct port on it but all i see on the ford is the "upper" a/c port. the canister says to look for the "lower" port.

can someone tell me where this "lower" port is?
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Comments

  • To All,

    Need assistance, looking for the electrical diagram for a 2001 Expedition, XLT Sport Edition. Took the truck 3 months ago to get the oil changed, all of the sudden the rear a/c stopped blowing cold air. A week ago I did my own oil change and noticed a loose connector underneath and I am asking myself if this has to do something with the A/C situation. This connector is nearby the drain plug. Looking for the diagram in order to troubleshoot it.

    Thanks,

    kastroj
  • jminierjminier Posts: 1
    To All,

    I have a noise with my rear air in my 02 Explorer. It sounds like a pump or something pulsating. Its a constant click, click, click. The engine does not have to be on, just the ignition. The rear air still blows cold. I pulled the panel off in the rear and it feels like its coming from a clear colored part behind the air unit. I unplugged the rear air to get rid of the annoying noise. When it started it would continue for about 30 minutes and then go away. Now it does not go away.

    If anyone has any idea's on what this might be, I'd love to hear them.

    Thanks.

    jminier
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,936
    This discussion seems to be overlooked. Try the main Ford Explorer: Problems & Solutions one (there's a Ford Expedition: Problems & Solutions one too).

    Or check out the more generic Climate Control Problems (Air Conditioning, Heat) - All Cars discussion.

    Steve, Host
  • I have just stumbled upon your problem while trying to search for the part to repair my exact same problem. My noise presented itself in almost the same way, however, occasionally the kids in the back would complain that the A/C was blowing hot air. The culprit in my 2003 explorer seems to be the air temperature mixer control for the rear air. There are two controllers on the rear air unit...one to control the air direction (up or down) and the other to control the air temp. They are both constructed of white/clear opaque plastic. The air temp. controller went bad on mine...it appears to have stripped a gear inside the sealed unit. I checked it by removing the unit from the main blower housing and plugging it back in. It did not click until I grabbed the shaft that goes into the mixer door on the housing. It felt as if it had stripped out and would not move when I was holding it with my fingers and just click. I guess the only way to repair is to replace the controller (don't know the cost yet, but it appears it is a dealer part and is probably expensive! :mad: ) I guess you have had the cover off to at least see these from your description of your problem. You have to remove two bolts and one nut to loosen the housing from the Explorer body enough to pull it out far enough to remove the controller(s)-- (3 screws hold them on) :D . You could just unplug the elec. connector to this controller to stop the noise as a temp. fix. Hope this helps!!!">
  • jrhoppjrhopp Posts: 1
    I own a 2002 7.3L Diesal Excursion 4WD. and the rear airconditioning unit has stopped blowing cold air It only blows hot air. any suggestions for fixing or for trouble shooting? Thanks in advance.
  • intmikintmik Posts: 6
    The rear air on my 99 Expedituon started to blow hot while the front one blows cold ? Any suggestions?
  • Just fixed my 2002 Explorer with this issue.
    You'll need part number #YL5Z-19E616-AA costs $86.06 + tax.
    It is the unit described by jminier in his reply.
    The box snaps apart by 2 plastic molded clips on each of the 4 sides.
    The gears had teeth that were indeed broken. I did some more investigation as to why this happened. The box is a simple DC motor / gear assembly with a wiper resistance pot to feed back position. The cars controller does not have the correct set points for the stopping points. This problem drives the motor even when the mechanical stop (flap is fully open or closed) is reached. This continued pressure strips the gears and causes the clacking noise.
    We all need for FORD to better engineer their vehicles so this does not happen. :mad:
    I have not dug into the controller to see if the end points can be adjusted to turn off the motor at the end points.
    Let us all know if someone does this work.
    Hope this helps (it is not cheep) :D
  • fliverfliver Posts: 1
    I have this same problem. Can you explain how to get the cover off? I'm assuming you have to remove the interier panel?
  • I have a 98 Expedition and had a problem with the rear only shooting out cold air, not hot. After tearing out the rear interior trim and was able to access the blower and heater core assembly, I found the blend door (which is what allows the hot/cold air through) was broke. This is a very common problem with explorers and expiditions. Very easy part to change for the rear. You just have to remove alot of trim to access the housing for everything. Also, the rear heater core was clogged and I had to replace that myself. I reccomend troubleshooting and fixing yourself. They will charge you an arm and a leg to take it somewhere.
    The front on the other hand is a pain in the you know what. I replaced the heater core in that. You literally have to take out the whole center console along with the whole dash board and everything in tact. After replacing and getting everything back together, I still had no heat. That is when I heard the "blend doors" go bad 95% of the time you have ac/heat problems. So for a temp fix, I drilled a small hole behind the glove box, into the left side of the housing for the heater core, and used a screw driver to pry open the blend door till warmer wheather comes and I can rip the dash out again to repair. Good Luck! :blush:
    The front is a whole different story
  • lhwilllhwill Posts: 5
    A noise started coming from the rear heater in my 2003 Expedition this winter. At first I thought it was one of the kids kicking something in rhythm but then found it to be coming out of the rear heater. Does anyone know how to open that rear panel or has anyone heard of this noise?
  • I have a 03 Expedition, the A/C works fine however, when I turn the A/C on in the rear there is a constant thumping noise from the rear fan area. I just noticed it would stop in a short while, before it was on going. I called the dealership who said the problem I described sound familiar however, without having a tech analyzing the problem they where not able to say what it was, except the price range to repair is usually $300 & $800. If there is anyone else that has or had this problem, I would love to hear from you. I would rather try to repair this myself instead of the dealership!! Thanks… :D
  • lhwilllhwill Posts: 5
    I have the same problem (and the same model 03 vehicle)but thought that our noise only happened with the rear heat. I need to try the A/C and see if it happens when I turn on the air, too. I have done nothing about mine as it just happened in January and I don't usually have a lot of passengers in the 3rd seat. Let me know what you find out if you do take it to be repaired or repair it yourself.

    Thanks. :confuse:
  • wmoenartwmoenart Posts: 1
    I have the same problem, I was told it was the accuater, which would cost about $200.00 to repair at the dealer, I took it apart and see one gear has two teeth broken off, very easy to replace, however, they don't replace just gears, they want to replace the whole item at $35.00, is their a place to purchase just the gear/s?
  • The "accuater", is that the correct part name. Because I tried to pull it up by that name on the ford web site. They said there was no part listed under that name, I would rather buy that part for $35 then paying the $200... :confuse:
  • jbaker14jbaker14 Posts: 1
    The only thing I could add to this answer (which was a big help, btw) is the location of the bolts & nut. There's one bolt at the bottom rear between the blower motor and the rear bumper. There's another at the top center of the unit. The nut is at the front and is kind of hard to find. It's in a hole facing toward the seats about halfway up the front of the unit. You'll probably need a deep socket to get at it.
  • ahightowerahightower DFWPosts: 429
    Maybe it's a typo. Try "actuator".
  • mjeongmjeong Posts: 4
    I have a 2004 and had the same thumping noise. My problem would show up when I tried changing the air flow direction from above to below. My 2004 is still under warranty. Dealer replaced "Blend Door Motor" Ford Part Number 1L2Z 19E616 BA no charge works fine.
  • truetidetruetide Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Expedition Eddie Bauer. The A/C suddenly started blowing warm air. I checked all the controls and stopped and retarted the system numerous times with the same result. It's blowing warm air out the rear a/c as well. Fuse numbers 11 & 13 checked out OK. Any ideas would could be wrong? Thanks.
  • rjm13rjm13 Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Expedition Eddie Bauer with similar problems. I took it to the dealer and it was fixed. They commented that there was a leak at the condensor core and o-rings at high side liquid line fittings.
  • I have a 2003 expedition and found that you are correct about the set point problem. I took a my unit apart (broken gear also) and determined that when the temperature knob is set to full hot (5 o'clock position) the control voltage from the knob is about 0.15 volt. when full cold (7 o'clock) it is ~12.0Volts engine off key on or about ~14.0 vdc engine running. This causes the servo loop for the door motor to try to keep turning against the stop when cold position is set. The issue stops if you set the temp knob to the 10 o'clock position from cold. From all this I determined that the motor doesn't like the control voltage to be more than ~10 VDC. To alleviate this problem I calculated from the internal resistors used in the unit that one can add a 75,000 ohm resistor externally in series with the control signal wire on the 8 pin connector that leads to the hot/cold motor. The wire is one located closest to the white connector key way. The other 2 wires are for the battery key on voltage and ground. To order a new unit from ebay look at item 200116596985 ford # YL5Z-19E616-AA. I just ordered one from this seller on ebay. I will test it on the bench before I install it to make sure it behaves like the original and report back that it needs the 75,000 ohm resistor also.
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