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Chevrolet Cavalier Coolant System Issues

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Comments

  • Did you use High temp gasket sealer (red/orange) color? take off water pump and use the gasket sealer with the gasket. Coat the pump (clean surface/no oil or residue, clean it with denature alcohol) ) side thin smooth with clean finger, add gasket to it, clean engine block where the water pump goes and apply thin film on it and then attach water pump. I usually don't use must the gasket by itself, I like to use the sealer with the gasket for LONG maintenance free job. Should last another 100,00 miles. Is your gauge more than halfway? 180 degree-190 degree is normal. You should not have to remove anything else to get to water pump usually took me 25 min to complete the job! Wait 6 hour before adding coolant. Should not have to torque it anymore than 15-20 pound with torque wrench.
  • romeo2891romeo2891 Posts: 1
    edited July 2013
    I have 2000 Cavalier 4 door with a 2.2, I just replaced the water pump and radiator inlet pipe. After getting it back from having radiator inlet replaced...it was fine for a few days and now its leaking again and overheating. Today I noticed some steam or something coming from engine and I just need this fixed...my roommates and I think the leak is coming from water pump, since its directly under it and it doesn't just leak a little....it pretty much dumps it. Any advice or ideas would be helpful.
  • 1-how many miles is on the head gasket?

    2-have someone being using straight water causing massive rusting? If so then the tiny holes in the head gasket is plugging up with rust crust causing choking of coolant flowing upward thru the head gasket as the water pump is pushing the water into the lower block first. Hot coolant runs out the pipe on the left side by the serpentine belts that flows into heater core and back into the thermostat housing and back into the engine and as the temp start to get 180 degree then the thermostat opens up allowing COOL coolant to flow into water pump into the block.
    NOTE: THE COOLANT FLOWS FULL TIME THRU THE HEATER CORES AT ALL TIME, THERE IS NO WAY TO CUT OFF COOLANT FLOWING THRU HEATER CORE.

    3-replaced the thermostat which the lower radiator hose runs into an inlet? THERE ARE NO THERMOSTAT ANYWHERE NEAR THE HEAD OR OUTLET HOSES.

    4-try flushing out the system by disconnecting the heater hose that runs into the thermostat housing and use jet water hose and flush it out BOTH ways to get gunk out the heater core as well, you can also do that while the engine is running with parking brakes on, wheel chock and don't anyone in the front seat while flushing. Keep flushing BOTH WAYS till you will see clear water and then rehook it up and use DEXCOOL coolant GM recommendation. 50/50
  • i just replaced water pump, thremostat, upper/lower hose, radiator,and flushed its still overheating what can be the problem
  • did you find rusty water in tank that hold coolant? Highly likely is that rust has build up around the holes in the Head Gasket that let coolant flow thru is now plugging up and restricting flow of coolant therefore letting it over heat. Take out the thermostat for now till you can get to replacing the head gasket. Even though it will run cold but the better than warping the head and having more to deal with.
  • It could also be that the heater core is plugging up. NOTE: the heater core coolant is a full time flow that mean it runs in a loop constantly from the engine back to engine and not when you want heat in the car in the winter. I know it a stupid setup!
  • To find out if the heater core is plugged up-- follow the hose coming out of the firewall that supply coolant to core and disconnect them at the closet point and use a garden hose with a taper nozzel and inject it one way and the other way next and it no or little flow mean it plugged up, it full flow after cleaning it out mean the core is not plugged up.
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