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Air Conditioning

245

Comments

  • gusgus Posts: 254
    #31> Varies from car to car. I have a '93 Corolla that has never had a recharge, and the A/C is still as cold as it was when the car rolled out of the factory (knock on wood). When you notice that the air isn't quite as cold as it used to be, or if it isn't cooling you off on a hot day, then you may want to get it checked out. The A/C system is supposed to be a sealed system, so if you need a recharge, you may have a leak--either a slow one or a fast one. It's likely that you'll need more than just a recharge if you find your A/C performing at an unsatisfactory level.

    #30> There's a sensor that detects how much refrigerant you've got in your system. Usually the sensor is hooked up to the receiver-drier (at least it is on the models I work on). It's possible that the sensor is bad, or that you're right on border of having not enough refrigerant so that maybe the sensor is sensing enough and then too little. It seems more likely that you've got a bad sensor or something is wrong with the wiring or mechanism that controls the compressor switching on/off.

    Good luck
    Gus
    Conference Host
  • Thanks, Gus.
    It looks to me a temperature sensor problem since it works when A/C was initially turned on. After a while (when the temperature reaches the setting point), the clutch started on and off oscillation at high frequency. So, where is the temperature sensor? Is it monitoring the coolant in the heater core?
    -Kent
  • Any issues on how to convert 89 corolla r12 system to r13?
  • humidhumid Posts: 5
    I live on the gulf coast and we push car a/c to the limit. A friend of mine found his BMW air to be a little weak during the height of summer. Anybody have recent experience with BMW A/C in a hot weather state?
  • markbuckmarkbuck Posts: 1,021
    I got about a twelve pack or so. Write if interested.

    Sold all my vehicles that use it.

    Mbuckholz@yahoo.com
  • The conventional wisdom is, do not change R12 system to R134A unless cost of R12 repairs exceed cost of R134A retrofit.

    Biggest problem I have found w/retrofit is size of condenser core is to small & not enough air flow over condenser in some autos.

    Neighbor bought a do-it your self kit at wal-mart, I recommended not to try it. He insisted, after recovering the R12, he installed per/instructions, has held for 2 years. Go figure!
  • Poor A/C performance; do not assume low refrigerant level. Many things can cause low performance. Such as, Poor air flow across condenser, in-operative expansion valve, improper air flow across evaporator core, improper operation of air doors & poor compressor performance.

    I have found condensers plugged with bugs, evaporators pluged with leaves, plastic shopping bag & I even found a well worn out coke can sitting on the top of the heater blower squirrel cage. The list goes on!

    You can check the easy things your self, beyond that, call the professional.
  • I am not interested in getting your left over R12. Just thought I would let you know what its worth. Last batch of R12 I purchased, I paid $14.00 per/LB. In 30 lb container.

    I am sure someone will want it.
  • markbuckmarkbuck Posts: 1,021
    Lets see $15 x 10 cans.....

    Ooooh. Beer money for a long time!

    Feel free to write

    mbuckholz@yahoo.com
  • bnormannbnormann Posts: 335
    Of course you know that Edmunds Town Hall is not a Marketplace, it's in your
    User Agreement

    This "auction of sorts" does have some entertainment value, so I am leaving it up for now.

    Please remember your User Agreement in the future.

    Thanks,
    Your Host, Bruce
  • markbuckmarkbuck Posts: 1,021
    So sorry, looked on Ebay, looks like the way to auction.

    Thanks for the reminder, Bruce. ;o)
  • The AC clutch bearing on my 95 Nissan Sentra is getting quite loud (all the time, AC on and off). How long should it last and is the clutch a replaceable item, or do I have to replace the whole compressor?

    I have the car up for sale and would replace the clutch if I can. Otherwise I guess I will have to go as-is. Just need advise as what to do.

    Pat
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    I feel a jerk within my cabin whenever the cooling fan comes on and my a/c is also on.
    if a/c is not on, no jerk.

    if a/c is on and no cooling fan startups(like early morning) - no jerks when the a/c comes on and off.

    can anyone tell me what the problem is?
  • FCWFCW Posts: 1
    My 99 GS4 is only a week old and I have a problem already. It was
    kind of warm today, 65F, so I turned the AC on. As it turned out,
    there was no refrigerant in the car! So I took it to the dealer who
    added CFC-free whatever and looked 25 minutes for a leak with
    no success. They said they tried some flourescent dye or something.
    Can I try to see this gas dye myself?? With a black light??
    So now I have AC, but I am still worried--once an AC system leaks,
    it NEVER stops!

    Does the car ship from Japan with refrigerant or is that a dealer
    add-in at the port?

    Driving home, I hear fluid swishing sounds from behind the dash when the
    AC is on. I have no example of how loud the GS HVAC system is, but
    this noise was pretty loud--much louder than my old ES300. Is this an
    indication of low refrigerant again? Or is this swishing noise normal for the GS?

    Also, under the hood, by the radiator I see a round window into the refrigerant
    piping. Back in the old days (of my 78 Chrysler LeBaron) if you looked into this
    window after the AC has been running in steady state, you are not supposed to
    see bubbles if the refrigerant level was Full. Well I saw TONS of foamy bubbles and
    sometimes larger bubbles go by with the AC on. Anyone with a GS Repair Manual
    that can tell me what is "normal" for this car?

    Well I guess I'll drive it and if there is a leak, eventually it will become noticeable.
    What if the leak is in the evaporator and is refrigerant is getting into the car????!!!
    What does the new CFC-free stuff smell like? What would my symptoms be if this
    were happening?

    Thank you all very much,
    FCW
  • markbuckmarkbuck Posts: 1,021
    A/C compressor takes 10 to 15 HP. Also, when the compressor clutch locks on, the drive system has to absorb the force it takes to spin the compressor up to speed (jerks).

    Big old diesel's that have lots of rotational inertia will hardly "jerk" at all. Little engines will "jerk" with more significance.
  • woody60woody60 Posts: 1
    Recently moved to Atlanta, and had the AC system (compressor, condensor, piping, etc) replaced - hadn't been working for a couple of years, but didn't need it in CT. Anyway, after the service, it would cool fine as long as I was traveling at highway speeds, but it couldn't keep up with the heat in local or stop and go traffic. Service shop sez it's working fine (by the # of degrees it's cooling from ambient), but it just ain't so. Ideas? My current thought is to take it to a specialist in auto AC, but I don't want to be taken for a ride again. (Last service cost me $1200!!)
  • edt4444edt4444 Posts: 2
    Bought a used one without air. Anybody know of a inexpensive way to add unit now. Love the car but might have to live with tinted windows and open sunroof.
  • the air and heat in my sunfire (1995) both come out on the floor and very little through the top , no matter how the settings are moved.
  • I only know a few basics but here goes. In general it is true that there is a fairly low pull down number in degrees. I think its about 20 degrees.One of my burbs acted like your veh.-it worked fine at 45 to 65 mph but not much at idle. I found a low charge condition with a gauge set. A very slow leak at a connection was the problem On my chev. units I could open the hood and observe that the electric clutch on the compressor was not being energized at idle speeds. Naturally I don`t know if this is your problem.Are you sure that your shop put a gauge set on your A.C. to verify freon charge level.I don`t suggest you play with a gauge set unless you have been trained. High pressure and eye damage are concerns. My 2 cents.
  • woodytxwoodytx Posts: 19
    91 Acura Integra LS Coupe, Compressor and Condensor leaking. My repair shop (a good one) wants $1,450 to replace both and recharge (R12). Does anyone have experience with this, and if so, could you tell me if that price is out of hand? Or if that's just about right. My last AC experience was in a 71 Olds, and was a bit cheaper....
  • 0patience0patience Posts: 1,542
    Here is a site that has A/C info.
    http://www.aircondition.com
  • Don't even bother keeping r12 system. Your repair parts are available at most auto parts stores. Have your system discharged, replace leaking parts with new 134 compatible parts yourself,[it's not really that hard],keep your work and connections dry and clean. Then return to A/C shop, have them vacuum system COMPLETELY, and charge with correct amount of R134. Been there, done that.
  • My Taurus wgn (3.0l V6) has NO refrigerant left in it. A slow leak over the winter is to blame. Dealer wnats $1500 for repairs (6 months guarantee only) independant shop quotes 1200$!. The car (1990) may live for 3 to 4 yrs more. I've heard that R134 is available without permit and so the question is How do I go about recharging the AC. Is it straightforward DIY job or I should let the pros handle it? Is there a stratagy to get the biggest bang for the buck. Any info will be welcome to tackle the SC heat. Thankyou
  • bbob4bbob4 Posts: 1
    I have a 1991 LS400 w/ 160,000 miles and have just
    started to have A/C problems. The dealer put in
    freon (needed quite a bit) and a dye. It appears
    that I have a leak at a seal on the top of the compressor.

    Dealer #1 recommends replacing the compressor
    along w/ a number of other A/C componeets. His
    explanaiton being that those other componenets may
    fail soon as well or prob need replacing given 10
    years of use. Probably a $2100 job.

    Dealer #2 told me awhile back to keep an eye on
    the A/C. She said if I ever felt the air turn
    warm and/or heard a noise shut down the A/C ASAP. She stated that the noise indicated a failing
    compressor. A failing compresor can send bits and
    pieces of itself throughoput the system, thus
    $$$$.She said if I caught it early enough I could save some money by just replacing the compressor
    ~$1100. (I think I managed to catch it early on.)

    Several independent A/C mechanics also told me to
    just replace the compressor with a new one. One
    strongly recommended against a rebuilt compressor
    saying that they are generally unsatisfactory,
    i.e.do not blow either cold enough or strong enough for what Lexus owners are used to.

    Finally, one independent mechanic tells me that he can just replace the leaking seal on the original compressor. The seal is on top of the compressorand seems to be a major leakage point. This is relatively inexpensive to do. A couple hours labor.



    At this point I am inclined to go the cheap route
    first and try just replacing the compressor seal.
    Has anyone tried this?

    However, I am also wondering....now even though my
    "good" condition replacing it w/a new one, instead of just changing the seal, may be a long term benefit.(Perhaps other parts of the compressor may fail?)

    Any experiences w/ A/C on the LS400? I understand
    that it is a common problem. How did you resolve
    it and was it satisfactory?

    Thanks in advance.
  • 0patience0patience Posts: 1,542
    shekharpatel;The job of recharging your A/C system is better left to someone who has the equipment for it.To do the job correctly,the leak must be found first and repaired or you will be redoing it every year.Then the system must be drawn down with a vacuum and oil and refrigerant added,if you do not do this correctly,there is a possibility of blowing out a hose,compressor or the refrigerant canister and often the blow out is violent.I would suugest getting numerous quotes and asking what your options are.Check with local parts stores for mechanics who do the work on the side(they may be more reasonably priced).


    bbob4;Since you have a leak at the compressor,the entire system has become contaminated,and that is not good.More than likely,you will need to replace the condensor already,along with the compressor.Any time you do not have the system entirely cleaned and the condensor replaced,you take a chance on recontaminating the entire system and creating problems down the line.
  • ray_cray_c Posts: 36
    Guys,

    Do anyone in here know that If I replace a expansion valve on my AC system for a Toyoto, should I also replace the "dryer" or "driver" as well.

    Thanks,

    Ray
  • lucky20lucky20 Posts: 35
    Your Toyota has what is called a receiver drier. I recomed that any time the A/C system is opened, the reciever drier should be considered for replacement. You mentioned replacement of the expansion valve. This valve most commonly fails machanically or plugs with failed descant from the receiver drier. It will cost more to do the job right, but it is better then having to do it again, & again.
  • ray_cray_c Posts: 36
    Thanks,

    Ray
  • dazhong4dazhong4 Posts: 1
    I have a 90 Mitshi'Eclipse that has a leaking expansion valve. It currently uses R12a. Should I retrofit the system to R134a??

    thanks

    ling
  • apharrisapharris Posts: 1
    Same sad story here, all-of-a-sudden the A/C on my 1991 Lexus is gone and dealer wants $2,000 to "fix" it. On top of that, he wants another $1,000 to "fix" power steering leak that is contaminating alternater. All this within 30 days of my very expensive 90,000 mile service. Rather then spend the money, I'm thinking of simply trading for a convertible. But, everything I look at is less of a car then my Lexus. On a trade, in current condition, they are offering $6-7K. Oh, my question: To put $3,000 into this old Lexus with 100K miles, or say good-bye?

    A
This discussion has been closed.