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Dodge Dakota Towing Questions

markstrommarkstrom Posts: 1
I just bought a 2006 dakota with the 4.7 v8. It does not have a regular hitch reciever. The ball just goes in the bumper. It looks and is built like a hitch reciever though not just a bumper pull. It goes up to the frame rails and has eye for safety chains and such. I am trying to figure out if it is a class 2 or not. If anyone knows I would love the help. Thanks

Comments

  • sunburnsunburn Posts: 319
    It's just a bumper hitch. My 02 is only rated for 2000 lbs and 200 lbs of tongue weight. It's usually stamped in the plastic above the license plate. There are some small eyelets under the bumper for safety chains.

    If you need something bigger, you can get a Class IV from Amazon.com for a little over $100.
  • jem5jem5 Posts: 3
    I retired my 79F250 last year and replaced it with an 06 Dakota, 4.7L, 2WD ext.cab, tow pkg. and now am looking for a lightweight 2horse bumper pull trailer (can't afford a brenderup!). Everyone seems to think i'm nuts for thinking this truck will safely haul a horse trailer(also wear & tear on eng, brakes and tranny). I DO live in the mountains, but usually go no farther than 100mi. Am hoping someone out there has had some experience with this and/or advice! Thanks...
    jem5
  • sunburnsunburn Posts: 319
    How much does a fully loaded 2H trailer weigh? The Dakota bumper isn't rated to pull very much, so I wouldn't attempt to use it. Use the receiver that came as part of the tow pkg. Also, since you are in the mountains, I would recommend that the trailer have brakes, if it is over 2000 lbs. Which axle ratio do you have, 3.55 or 3.92?
  • jem5jem5 Posts: 3
    The trailers i am looking at are about 2000lb.+ 1 horse at 1000lb. and infrequently 2 at that weight. And no, wouldn't use bumper, but hitch with a weight balancing hitch added and definitely trailer brakes. 3.55 ratio with tow/haul pkg. eng. and tranny cooling system. Tow weight according to stats is about 5900lb., but am figuring with live weight, no more than 2/3 that weight. Am still a bit leary, but thought i'd give it a try. Hopefully without problems! Thanks!
  • campymancampyman Posts: 13
    If you drive cautiously, allowing greater distance between yourself and the vehical in front of you, allow for longer stopping distances, slower corners, ect, you should be fine. I used to pull a 2 horse trailer and two horses with a 1992 Mazda MPV!
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,931
    Properly equiped a Dakota can tow around 7000 pounds. I know two people who tow 4000 lbs. plus fairly regularly with a Dak equiped much like yours and they do just fine.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • sunburnsunburn Posts: 319
    Your Dakota should be fine with 3000-4000 lbs. Just be aware that going up hills in the mountains will likely mean 2nd gear at around 4000 RPM. The 4.7 has to rev a bit to make its power.
  • cfontcfont Posts: 3
    Im confused, I bought a used Dakota Sport. The car fax listed it as dakota Sport/rt. But anyone that looks at it says its not an RT. The local Dodge dealer was no help. Im concerned because of the RT's 2000 lb towing limit. Can anyone tell me how to confirm the exact model? and also, why does the RT have such a small towing capacity?
  • ffloydffloyd Posts: 1
    I've had the 2000 Dakota 4x4 Club Cab since new, with 4.7L v8 5-spd manual tranny and 3.55 rear axle. According to the reference guides the max tow rating is around 5000 I have a new (2008) travel trailer that weighs 2950 dry with tandem axles. The max weight limit on the trailer is 5800. I expect the gross will be in the 4000 range when loaded.

    Now, I am putting on an equalizing hitch and will have trailer brakes. I live in the Seattle area but will be taking a trip south to the Lake Tahoe area, so I will have some hill climbing.

    What additional should I do to the truck to get it ready for towing? I am concerned about reliability and safety more than performance.
  • cfontcfont Posts: 3
    Im confused, I bought a used Dakota Sport. The car fax listed it as dakota Sport/rt. But anyone that looks at it says its not an RT. The local Dodge dealer was no help. Im concerned because of the RT's 2000 lb towing limit. Can anyone tell me how to confirm the exact model? and also, why does the RT have such a small towing capacity?
  • w9awxw9awx Posts: 3
    As for confirming, look under the hood at the emissions sticker. It should show a 5.9L or about a 354 cid engine. Only the RT's came with that engine. As for the towing capacity of only 2000 lbs, it is because the RT has lowered springs and different shocks then the standard Dakotas. While the brakes and frame are the same, due to the lowered stance, it can not tow as much.

    Also the tire size is a big difference. The regular Dakotas have 15 or 16 inch wheels and 70 or 75 series tires or they also could have off road tires. The RTs I think have 17s inch wheels and 50 series or lower profile tires.

    Look at the tires. Should be a big giveaway. If you have to practically step down to get out of the truck, it isnt an RT. If you have to step down to get into the truck, it could be and RT.
  • zarnzarn Posts: 1
    I own an 01 STL c/cab. It has a factory installed tow bar and 7 pole connector. I use a 4 wire adaptor for the lights on my boat trailer. The ground wire (wht) is attached to the trailer. I recently rewired the trailer and checked all connections, they were fine. However in the dark I (tryed to) hooked up the 4 wire adaptor backwards (dopey me!) witnessed a small flash in my tail lights and since that time I no longer have running lights on the trailer. The stop and turn signals work OK. I have removed and checked all fuses in the two fuse blocks (underhood and dash side panel) described in the O/M. All fuses check OK w/ a meter. Can anyone tell me if there is a in-line fuseable link or another fuse block that services the factory trailer connection. I checked the wiring under the truck and cannot detect any breaks or shorts. Any solutions or other suggestions?
  • my wife and i have dakotas similar to yours. the preparation we did was..... coil-over rear shocks by monroe, dot4 brake fluid through all four brakes, weight-distribution hitch, 75w140 synthetic gear oil in rear diff. ours are automatic, but we wish we had a 3.92 ratio -- you'll have an easier fix by using 4th gear. oh yeah, the factory tires on both our trucks were too soft -- we changed to 6-ply LT tires. they tow just fine - we tow a 6000 pound Jayco camper.
  • moelmoel Posts: 2
    I just purchased a 2009 dodge dakota 4x4 and plan to tow 4 wheels down behind my motorhome. the owner's manual says to disconnect the battery which of course will preclude towing as then brake lights, turn signals etc. wouldn't work.
    Does anyone know what happens if anything if one leaves the battery hooked up?
    Moel
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Which vehicle are you being told to remove the battery in - the Dakota that's being towed? So, don't you need a way to power the truck's taillights, stop lights, etc from the motor home?

    What you don't want to do, in general, is have two batteries connected together in parallel. This is why I think you're being told to remove the battery.
  • moelmoel Posts: 2
    Yes the Dakota operator's manual advises to remove negative terminal on the Dakota while being towed; I have towed a 2003 Dakota with the battery connected with no problem. One needs the battery to ensure the lights are operational and that your "brake buddy" is powered. So trying to find out if any "damage" caused by leaving battery live.
  • can I front wheel dolly tow my 2006 dakota 4x4 automatic with the neutral switch without removing my rear drive shaft?
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