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Oldsmobile Aurora Engine Problems

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Comments

  • I am having the same problem. Did you receive any feedback on what is causing the hard starts? When my engine starts the RPM gauge goes all the way to 8,000rpm, even though the engine in idling normal. I turn off the ignition and start it again and the RPM gauge resets.
  • I have not received any replies about this issue. I think that I am going to be forced to take it to the shop in the next few days because the problem seems to be getting progressively worse. I will post the results of what the repairman tells me.
  • Regarding the posts about the hard start issue. I had this problem with mine on two separate occasions. When I would go to start the car. I'd turn the key and it would crank and crank for a long period of time before it would fire/start up. This sounds like what ya'll are experiencing. I had to replace the Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR) on two separate occasions within the last 4 years or so. It was actually a very easy fix. Very easy to remove and replace(i am not a car dude), it is located on the top of the engine. Hope this helps!
  • coreyg1 - Thanks for the input. I will see if I can get the FPR at the auto parts store and replace it over the Thanksgiving weekend. I will post the results. Thanks again for your (hopefully) helpful reply.
  • pscheidpscheid Posts: 190
    Where are you looking for the tank? Mine replaced last month with a new one. Part took less than a day to get.......$455.
  • I bought a new FPR ($50) and replaced it in about 15 minutes. The car runs great!
  • Am thinking i'm having same problem. Is the fpr valve located on front fuelrail on driverside i have a 95 aurora
  • On my 2001 Aurora the FPR is located on the end of the fuel rail on the drivers side and toward the back of the engine. On my car there is a clip holding it on and a tube coming out of it. It was pretty easy to change. Good Luck!
  • I feel dumb that I havent found the starter motor. I was instructed to do a test to figure out this non starting problem. I need to remove a wire from the solonoid and I havent found it yet. Someone please help. Thank you. Craig
  • cag4cag4 Posts: 1
    car begin stalling august had tune up new gas filter etc. began stalling again read blog about putting rear widow defrost on and neutral when starting WORKED! BEEN RUNNING FINE
    Went to dealership yesterday for oil change and brakes told I need an idle air control valve ($625.00) and Air pump ($545) They also charged $100.00 too test for this. I told them I did not want to do it.
    When I picked up car it barely would start. In reading blogs see sensor issues mentioned for this problem. Afraid dealeship will keep finding things until I am broke. Where can I go that I can get an honest answer or talk intelligenty about my problem.
  • jiml4jiml4 Posts: 1
    My elderly father-in-law's 95 aurora keeps stalling out. He's replaced crank sensors, had the car gone over thoroughly by mechanics, nothing helps.
    Help!
  • bambillabambilla Posts: 1
    I recently had the factory recall finished on my aurora. they replaced the fuel rail and fitting ..since the car had been boggin down...I figured the gas delivery was the problem. but when I got it back the engine lightcame on. It gets to running rough when i get between 10mph and 20 mph?
  • have a oldsmobile aurora95 and i think we are just about done with it! we got the car in 07 and it ran good till i think the cold hit cant remember but anyways we have had a lot of things go wrong with the car (we love it but just sick of it) it:
    chugging sputting engine light on sticky gas bad powerSLOW missfires we have had the lights just come on in the middle of the night when keys are not in hmmm
    but ya my poor husband has worked on it foe so long and we have kids and im sick of feeling like if we take the car we need the tools in the back or i my be sitting on the side of the road:( we just dont know what do do with it anymore we have put some money into it and just not getting anything good back we have taking it in we thought maybe elc.prob but they said cant find anything wrong it cks out fine so what to do know is what we ask???? if you or anyone could HELP I would love it thanks so much:)
  • bob376bob376 Posts: 1
    I have a 96 Aurora. When the car gets hot the cooling fan does not kick into high speed causing the car to get too hot. Mechanic told me I needed a new PCM unit. Could it be anything else like the thermostat or other fan controls?
  • dano853dano853 Posts: 17
    About a month ago my 95 started running on about 6 cylinders when cold. once the car warmed up it was better but sometimes after a stop it would accelerate very poorly. Not a rough idle as much as a lack of power in general. Sometimes I would pull out into traffic and couldn't accelerate enough to get up to speed within a 1/4 mile.
    Yesterday just before I got home it got suddenly worse. Almost like when the engine runs out of gas. No acceleration... and even though the engine dieseled and sputtered it still ran for about 2 minutes. I could get no acceleration. Putting it in neutral and pressing the gas did nothing. It finally quit when trying to cross a speed bump. Now it will start maybe... but diesel and sputter only for 5 to 10 seconds then it dies. Not sure if its an electrical or fuel issue. Sound familiar to anyone? I'm broke... unemployed, and the ECM will not communicate with my mechanic's diagnostic unit. This car has had occasional issues with #1 coil, but nothing recent. And last week the oil pressure light came on a for a few seconds, but not since. HELP!
  • bsawreybsawrey Posts: 1
    edited October 2010
    My 95 with 105,000 miles has slowly developed a hard start problem when the engine warms; it cranks just fine but won't fire until 6-8 seconds of cranking, then is erratic for another 2-4 seconds until calming down, at which point it runs just fine. This problem is not present when the engine is cold or when immediately restarting when hot. Found plug wires damaged, replaced plugs and wires but this had no effect on performance. No "check engine" light and no noticeable performance issues, but I gotta get this fixed before I burn out an $800 starter.

    Any ideas?
  • A water hose sprung a leak and by the time I noticed the computer said engine overheating turn off air conditioner. Before I could pull over it said engine hot turn off. I finally cooled the engine down and remover the pressure cap and refilled the system leaving the cap off so I could at least get the car home. Well now the engine idles at 2500 RPM and slams into gear when shifted. Is this a computer problem or glitch? Is there a way to reset the computer to factory presets?
    I need help.
  • The starter motor is under the intake manifold. To test a starter you use a screwdriver to short out the battery terminal to the solenoid switch terminal. So lay the screwdriver so it's touching both the large battery terminal to the small switch terminal. The engine will now crank if the starter is good.
  • There is a temperature coolant sensor that tells the fan when to turn on. if you disconnect the connecter to it both fans will run all the time like they did in cars of the past. Your car will never overheat again probably but the check engine light will be on. The reason for this sensor is to save gas but really it doesn't matter much. The sensor is screwed into the engine block on drivers side towards the back and you have to remove some things to get to it or even see it.
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