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Honda CR-V Grinding Noises

muder69muder69 Posts: 6
Hello,
I have a 2003 CR-v all wheel drive automatic and recently it has started to make a grinding noise from the front of the vehicle under hard acceleration. The noise is more pronounced under a left turn. I took it to the dealership and they are telling me it the Motor Mount. Has anyone ever heard of a MM causing a grinding noise? The total cost to repair is roughly $250 but I'd hate to dish out the money only to find it was the front differential or something.
If anyone has any insight, please let me know.

Thanks!

Comments

  • hondalovehondalove Posts: 2
    Hi There,
    I have an 02'LX 2WD had the same problem,went to my dealer,they were giving me hard time that they can't douplicate,finally I drove the car with a tech he heard it ,car stayed overnight ,and I was told that they loosened and retightened all the front suspention nuts and bolts so far no noise,but the only noise thats anoying since day first is went I'm backing out of parking space sounds like front suspention needs some oil and lube some where,it's squeeking.
  • muder69muder69 Posts: 6
    Thanks for the reply Hondalove. The noise for me is more pronounced when accelerating on a left turn or from a stop and accerating hard going straight. I can punch it on a right turn and the noise isn't there. So for now, as long as I don't floor it, the noise is gone. I guess with gas prices so high, its not such a bad thing ;)
  • crvme3crvme3 Posts: 140
    muder69,
    Have your dealer chk the drive axles carefully, A common problem with FWD vehicles is that the CV boot that covers the CV joints (constant velocity) becomes cracked or torn & all the lubrication is thrown out by the spinning of the axle/s ultimately causing the joint to fail from LOL (lack of lubrication). The common symptom of this is a "clacking/grinding" noise most pronounced on hard/tight turns. IMO the "mount" theory would produce a one time "thump" noise on hard acceleration from a stop & be gone until stopped/accelerated again as well as be there regardless of which direction you turned... CV joint concerns are turn sensitive, since you indicate it only happens in one direction... if it is a CV joint causing your issue it is most likely only on one side. Hope this is of some help.
  • muder69muder69 Posts: 6
    Thank you. Now if i can have them wave the $50 service fee!
  • muder69muder69 Posts: 6
    The problem is fixed! I had the front engine mount replaced ($120) and the problem has gone away. The tech said that when the engine was under throttle, the torque was causing the engine to rotate or flex slightly causing the drive train to stress.
  • fnamowiczfnamowicz Posts: 191
    Are you sure? this excuse has been used since the Model-T.
    The engine mounts are designed to flex.
  • muder69muder69 Posts: 6
    I'm completely and utterly sure ;) the noise is gone. The bolt was snapped in two and the bushing was badly torn. Now that all parts have been replaced, the engine will still flex, just not as grossly as with the broken parts, the "flex" is now within its designed tolerance.
  • planeplane Posts: 6
    Bought a new CRV EXL on July 1st. I have noticed that the car "shimmies" while driving (i.e., shifts right and left, especially on the freeway at higher speeds (approx. 70 mph). I feel the ride is unstable. Is anyone else experiencing this problem? I have brought it to the dealer once and they couldn't find any problem. Very disappointed as I am a new Honda owner after being a GM owner for years. What are my options if I am unhappy with what I feel is an unsafe ride? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • crvme3crvme3 Posts: 140
    plane,

    See post in "handling problem on new CRV"
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    Bought a new CRV EXL on July 1st. I have noticed that the car "shimmies" while driving (i.e., shifts right and left, especially on the freeway at higher speeds (approx. 70 mph). I feel the ride is unstable. Is anyone else experiencing this problem? I have brought it to the dealer once and they couldn't find any problem. Very disappointed as I am a new Honda owner after being a GM owner for years. What are my options if I am unhappy with what I feel is an unsafe ride? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

    Check your tire pressure. Hondas are shipped at 45 psi. When tires are inflated this high, it affects handling. Adjust to what the door jamb says.
  • Hi,

    My 2005 CR-V makes a grinding noise on hard left-hand turns. At first, the dealer thought I was nuts because they couldn't hear anything. Then I took them for a test drive - hard left turn at slow speed led to the common grinding sound that even the service guys could hear clearly. They've looked at the brakes and backing plates, but have found nothing wrong. I saw another posting on this issue where the sound shows up during hard acceleration, but I can't say I've noticed that (posted by muder69). Nonetheless, I'm thinking of asking the dealer to take a look at the motor mounts (and maybe the CV boots as suggested by crvme3).

    If anyone has experienced this problem and dealt with it successfully, please let me know. Note that I've had the rear diff fluid flushed and changed twice (under warranty), but this has done nothing to solve the problem.

    Thanks.

    P.S. Despite this annoying problem, I have to say I really do like my CR-V.
  • For me the problem was a broken motor mount. The bushing was torn in the drivers side motor mount. Once replaced at $150, the noise went away. I noticed the noise on hard acceleration and on left hand turns while accelerating.

    A previous "grinding" noise problem was resolved by replacing the rear differential fluid. This noise would occur on slow turns left or right.
  • My CR-V (1999) is making a droning noise when I accelarate. Dealership has had it for 2 hours already and are not sure what it is. They need me to pay for another 2 hours to make sure. They think the transfer box needs replacing and this is going to cost me £1500! Anybody heard of this before? The car has never been off-road.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    They think the transfer box needs replacing and this is going to cost me £1500!

    Unless the EU CR-V is significantly different from the US CR-V, there is no transfer case. The functions of the AWD unit are contained in the rear differential. There is an auxillary take off from the transmission to the rear to power the propeller shaft.

    If the dealer says you need to replace the transfer case, ask them to show it to you, and take a picture.
  • I've been noticing a grinding noise when I accelerate but not all the time - usually after I start up the car or when it's colder outside. Once when I was changing my front passenger tire, the jack gave out and the car landed on the rotor and I've noticed the sound after that. I took it to a dealership and they said that nothing was wrong with my rotor which i though it was....any suggestions?
  • jamez2jamez2 Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 CRV with 152K miles on it. On a recent trip the bearing/seal from the transfer case to the rear driveshaft apparently gave out. A loud whining noise began and would change pitch as I slowed or accelerated. Being around midnight and in the middle of nowhere, I drove home, about 70 miles. In the morning I saw a puddle of trans fluid on the ground. In the shop, I saw the destroyed bearing...shop replaced the bearing, seals, and the gears in the case...still makes the noise...shop says the gears need to seat for about 500 miles or so and it should stop. Any thoughts? FYI..I've already spent $603 on this, a new case is $750 plus labor according to the shop...
  • I have a 2010 Honda CR-V with 500 miles and just started hearing a loud grinding sound when brakes applied. Sounds like it is from the rear brakes. Very noticeable when brakes applied while backing up. Probably because slow speed when noise is more apparent. This is not normal because has not been doing it for first 450 miles. Any ideas before I have to drive 50 miles to dealer?
  • lzclzc Posts: 483
    If it's 4WD I'd guess the rear differential needs servicing.
  • Not a four wheel drive. This vehicle is new with less than 500 miles on it. It is the rear brakes that are grinding when pedal is applied.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    Does the griding only happen after the vehicle sat for more than 6 hours?

    Does the grinding go away after a short drive?

    Is it damp, wet, snowey or otherwise moist where the vehicle is parked?

    If you answer yes to any, or all of the above, most likely you have rust build up on the rotors, which is normal. Before driving off next time, look through the opennings in the wheels and see if the rotors appear rusty. The first application of the brakes usually shaves the surface rust off.
  • Grinding is consistent when stopping. Does not get better or disappear after a few miles or many stops. Most noticeable when backing up because that is when road noise is less. I have examined rotors and no rust. Any other ideas? The noise is quite annoying.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    Grinding is consistent when stopping. Does not get better or disappear after a few miles or many stops. Most noticeable when backing up because that is when road noise is less. I have examined rotors and no rust. Any other ideas? The noise is quite annoying.

    Is the noise similar to the ABS noise?

    Is the brake pedal pulsating when you hear the noise?

    It could be as simple as bad ABS sensor or a disconnected wire, or the noise is not coming from the brakes, but something else.

    You are under warranty. It is probably worth having Honda dealer check it out, rather than having us guess...
  • tandoritandori Posts: 5
    Did you ever discover the cause of the problem? We had the same symptoms on our NEW CRV 2010 after 1 month of owning it. The brakes were rusted/corroded/pitted. Car had less than 2000 miles on it. Many of the car parts were also rusted/corroded. We took it to an independent Mechanic who we trusted to find out what the problem was...the Mechanic asked if the car had been in a flood. Not to my knowledge...thought I was buying a "new" car. In any case, my advice to you is to take your car to an independent mechanic to find out the problems, then take it to the dealer and have them fix the source of the problem. Be sure to save the documentation from the visit in case you need to file a lemon law claim. One guy emailed me and told me he had to replace his brakes every 6 months. I am wondering about the quality of the materials that Honda is putting into their cars....
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    One guy emailed me and told me he had to replace his brakes every 6 months. I am wondering about the quality of the materials that Honda is putting into their cars....

    If the 2007-up CR-V has same break set up as the 2002-2006, then caliper sliding pins have to be cleaned and lubricated at leat once a year in a snowey regions. Even if it does not snow where you live, it is not a bad idea to service your brakes once a year.

    I highly doubt brakes had to be replaced every 6 months, but, where I live, Buffalo, NY, I service brakes on the CR-V in April, after winter, and in October, before winter sets. Servicing is not the same as replacement. Servicing involves taking the parts off and cleaning them, and them putting them back together with some Molykote-77.
  • Everyone: Honda recently settled a class action suit regarding their brakes:

    http://www.nytimes.com/pages/automobiles/index.html

    So don't believe them when they tell you that the rusted brakes is your fault, which is their normal method of operation: blame the victum.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,805
    This seems to be a more direct link.

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

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