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Subaru Legacy/Outback Oil and Other Fluid Questions

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Comments

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Whoops, misread that, my bad.

    Yeah, look for a yellow dipstick. Not easy to find, though.

    For that instead of the pump use a funnel with a long tube attached to it.

    It'll take far more than just one quart, also.

    The drain plug is a flat nut at the bottom of the transmission casing, IIRC I want to say it's a 17mm? Maybe bigger.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,461
    That sounds about right. I know many late '90s and early '00s had issues with incompetent shops messing up the oil changes by draining differentials and overfilling engines. That may be the reason a Torx is used now. The engine oil pan's nut is 17mm.

    I use the pump to fill my front/center differentials as well. I have a long-neck funnel, but it is tough to access that opening, especially on newer models. When I put the synthetic 75w-90 in my 2010 Forester a couple weeks ago, there is no way I could have accessed the port with a funnel. I had to pump a gallon of gear lube by hand. Well, i think it was something like 7.9 pints, so almost a gallon, but that is for a manual transmission, so I would think the differential only needs about half of that. I'm just being lazy and not using my own link to look up the info for the OP. :P
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    LOL :D

    I used a funnel with a long plastic tube. That tube ran down to the dip stick, which is also the fill hole for gear oil on the manual trans.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    First of all there is NO fluid that is user serviceable on the CENTER DIFFY on a Subaru.

    If this is an Automatic you have Front Diffy, Rear Diffy and the Automatic Trans Fluids.

    If this is a MT, then you have Front Diffy combined with the Manual Trans Fluid and the Rear Diffy.

    Front Diffy on an AT takes less than 1 Quart, Rear takes about 1 Quart.
    Front Diffy + Manual Trans on an MT takes 3 Quarts, Rear takes about 1 Quart.

    Filling the Front Diffy on the AT is a Dipstick (the side will depend if it's a Turbo or a Non Turbo).
    Filling the Automatic Trans Fluid is a Dipstick (the side will depend if it's a Turbo or not)
    Rear Diffy on AT or MT is upper bolt on the casing itself.

    -mike
    Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I worked on my front diff/manual trans.
  • nv1znv1z Posts: 1
    Then what is one supposed to do if one has an issue where the suspected culprit is the center differential?

    I have a 1990 Subaru Legacy that appears to have some center differential issues. It is an AWD model, but when both front wheels OR both rear wheels are on a low-traction surface, one of the wheels on that axle spins and torque is not shifted to the other axle. In other words, both axles get torque at different times, but no shifting of torque between axles happens when it is supposed to.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,461
    If the center differential is the problem, a transaxle rebuild is on the horizon.... :cry:
  • jim355jim355 Posts: 1
    I have a 95 outback and after a recent engine change the transmittion ( or transfer case ) started slipping and now there is fluid coming from the fill port of the transfer case and the transmittion is empty of fluid. There is a loud grinding noise when trying to drive but with the car on jack is dosent make the noise and seems to trun the wheels fine. What could it be. A bad transmittion, transfer case or torque converter?
  • 204meca204meca Posts: 366
    Any comments / experience on the pros / cons of using synthetic fluids for front & rear diffentials?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,461
    I use synthetic 75w-90 in my Subaru(s), both front and rear differentials, and it makes for easy moving on cold mornings (0F and colder) compared to the stock fluid. I love it - the very first thing I do when I get a new Subaru is change out the differential fluid to synthetic.

    Cons? Well, my '08 Outback, with its rear LSD, chattered a little when I spun the tires, but a little slip lock cleared that right up. I only drove it 300 miles (on dry pavement) before changing the fluid, so I am not sure if the chatter would have occurred with the OEM oil.
  • OK BUT WHAT IT HAVE TO BE DONE
    I EAR THAT IS BETTER TO CHANGE THE WHOLE ENGINE
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,838
    Nah, that's like building a new house because the roof leaks! :P

    MODERATOR

  • This just started happening to my car tonight!! Its very loud, and I cant seem to make it go away at all, check lots, think i found where the sound is coming from, i had my hood up and was rolling it verry slowing to discover where the sound was coming from, not too sure what it is but I can see it looking down from my engine (thanks to a new intake I just put it getting rid of the big air box.) and it had like an axle to a boot to a green cylinder to a box. Did you find out what it was?! Please need help!!!

    Anyone!!
    Thank you!! :sick:
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