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Ford Explorer Starting and Stalling Problems

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  • bkc68bkc68 Posts: 1
    truck wont turn over at all i replaced the battery and took the starter off and had tested and it passed 5 times in a row. all it does is make a clicking noise but it doesnt sound like it comeing from the starter while laying underneath it...sounds like its coming from the top side. i put my hand on the starter and had someone turn the key and i couldnt feel any vibration at all from the starter...could someone help me?
  • samcrosamcro Posts: 5
    Help! I have an '01 2WD Explorer Sport Trac that has 170,000 on it and it ran well until last week. When I tried to start the engine it ran very, very">link title rough for a moment and then died out. This happened several times until it finally started and then it idled and drove perfectly but when I shut it off it was very hard to restart doing the same thing all over again. There were no "check engine lights" or anything at all. I was supposed to take it to the dealer today to get this checked out but when I tried to start it this morning it refused to start. It just cranks and cranks and doesn't even try and start. Anyone with any ideas?
  • My daughters 03 Explorer check engine light came on the other day. I borrowed a engine reader from someone at work to check the code. It was the cam sensor. The car had been starting fine, so I figured I would erase the code and replace it later. I shut the car down and went to start it back up and the starter would just click. Check fuses and tried to jump. No good. Tested power to the starter solenoid mounted on the starter and had 13 volts. Hooked the volt meter direct to the starter and it would only go up to 8 volts when trying to start?? Figured the starter was bad, so I replaced it. Same thing!! Starter clicks, I can feel the relays under the hood clicking, tried both keys and nothing. Not sure how erasing the code would mess something up????
    Scott
  • The passive anti-theft system prevents the engine running unless a programed key is in the ignition. You can't just go to the hardware store and get a key, it has to be programed to the vehicle.

    Another thing to look at; The "Mass Air Flow" sensor goes bad on Fords,it will cause poor performance and stalling !

    also,under the hood, look in the fuse box,(small square boxes)Replace them,
    cost about ten dollars !
  • 3 things that might be causing this !
    one=Mass Air Flow goes bad,causes stalling, and hard starting!
    two=under the hood,fuse box, there are small square black boxes,they go bad,causes no start !
    Three= pluged catalitic converter, needs replaced,you could unhook the exhaust
    then try to start, converters are costly !
  • Check the fuse box under the hood, There are little black boxes that go bad!
    Also check ign. fuse !
  • Thanks for the reply. I am going down today to get new relays.

    Both keys I am using are the ones that came with the car. What you are saying about the theft system makes sense. It seems like the car has shut down since there is still power to the starter solenoid!

    Scott
  • Well, looks like it could be a possible cam issue. After talking with my daughter, she said she heard a ticking on her way home then a pop!! Thinking since this is a dual cam 4.6 V8, maybe one of the chains ( belt not sure which it is) skipped or broke?? Anyone have this happen??? I got the engine to turn over once or twice using a remote starter switch hooked to the solenoid, didn't sound good!
    Scott
  • FYI!
    Never really paid that much attention to check engine lights. Not sure how all this relates, but I pull the valve cover just a bit ago. 5 broken rocker arms, looks like some of the retainer clips for the valve springs are broke, one valve higher then the others ( not sure about that) and there was some of the plastic chain guide plastic in the cam chain!!!! Not good. I'm sure there is some rod or piston damage also. Can't tell yet.
    Scott :sick:
  • mayo1021mayo1021 Posts: 2
    edited February 2010
    I HAVE A FORD EXPLORER 4.0 FUEL IS 40 PSI AND HAVE SPARK BUT WILL NOT TURN ON IF IS COLD ..... IT WILL TURN ON WHEN THE FUEL PUMP SHUT OFF IF NOT IT WILL NOT TURN ON HLEPPPPPPP
  • the EEC relay ,these have caused the same problem you are having now !
    Good Luck !
  • hey thanks but i already change the relay to
  • I had a stalling problem today with my 2006 Explorer. I was driving 40 MPH on cruise control when the truck stalled. This has happened once before last year. I did file a report with the National Highway TSA, thanks to your post.

    I am new to this site and trying to figure out how to navigate this site. I am interested in hearing more about this problem.
  • I am having the same problem. While driving at 40 MPH using cruise control, my truck stalled. Not sure what to do because it sounds like Ford is playing dumb with this subject. Any more info would be appreciated.
  • 1998lincoln1998lincoln Posts: 108
    Check for the simple things first, fuel pressure,spark ! then check the EEC relay.
    Also check the o2 sensor,There is a sensor on the transmission that will
    cause the engine to stall out when it goes bad ! Hope this will help! Good Luck
  • I will do that! Thank you!
  • My wife is having similar issues with her vehicle. What year is your vehicle? What exactly did they fix? Have you had any other problems since the repairs?
  • I shot a quick video of the problem I've got under the front end of my 2002 eddie bauer explorer. You can see the minute video here:

    http://www.interestsyou.com/product/explorersqueak.html

    It's extremely loud and i can hear it (and so can anyone outside near the vehicle) when the vehicle rocks left to right when hitting bumps, going over uneven pavement, speed bumps, etc.

    If it rains outside, the noise will go away for a couple of days do to the moisture. The sound was gone the entire winter and now has come back in the last week or so do to the rise in temp here in the midwest.

    any ideas what this is? how much it'll cost to fix?

    thanks for any help
  • rub23rub23 Posts: 1
    my 2002 explorer. has a ticcking sound and its gotten worse, i no longer drive the suv. also the oil gauge is dead, it goes to normal at times only. while driving it yesterday it was making the clicking noise and it shut off on me. any clues. :cry:
  • 1998lincoln1998lincoln Posts: 108
    Try using some additive to the oil , or you could install a new oil pump !
    Let us no what happens ! These SUV's have a problem with the same thing
    you are experiencing !
  • derry09derry09 Posts: 1
    Im interested in knowing what you found out about your vehicle. Mine just stalled for no apparant reason. I checked all the connections and the battery is good, I have all my lights working but when I TRY TO CRANK IT OVER THERE IS NOTHING its a 2003 ford explorer
  • kathypostkathypost Posts: 4
    I contacted my local Ford dealership and, not surprising, they knew nothing about the stalling situation with the Explorer.
    On a side note, I noticed that the only time my car stalled was when I had cruise control on at appx. 40mph, on a number of hills. I live on a mountain and there is one long road that goes up and down and so I think my problem may actually be caused because cruise control is not designed to be driven up and down hills. I have never had a problem with the car stalling except while I was using cruise control and on the mountain. I am beginning to think my problem is because cruise control is not intended for driving on slopes. Live and learn : )
    Good Luck!
  • 4cutouts4cutouts Posts: 2
    I bought a used 04 Explorer 4 months ago. While driving around 35MPH, the engine has cut out 4 times. I put the truck in neutral and started the engine back up within seconds. This has only happened while the cruise control was turned on, but only engaged 2 of the times. Left the cruise control off for two months, and the problem stopped. I had a complete diagnostic done on the truck, for $109.95, and no sign of a problem. The EGR valve was replaced, for $291.40, as a guess as to the cause. I used the cruise control 3 days ago and the engine cut out again. The mechanic has no idea what is causing the engine failure, but it sure appears that the cruise control has something to do with it. Both Ford and my local Ford dealer are no help. I'm working with my regular mechanic.
  • Have a 2008 explorer limited. Took in to dealer this morning to address transmission lurching in low gear - usually near a stop or while accelerating. Also within the past week, the explorer started to stall - first time while in park, next several times while the car was actually driving (approx 30 mph). Any advice on what to discuss with dealer - I'm sure they'll call back and say nothing is wrong and I'm hallucinating.
  • viciousphbviciousphb Posts: 1
    edited July 2010
    Last week ran fine, started fine. Made two stops. Second time turned key and nothing. No crank, no noise at all. Thought it was battery since I bought the car used and battery was old. Had it towed to Auto Zone and put in new battery. Started fine. Next day started right up, went for few errands and it happened again. Got in, turned the key and nothing. Had it towed to Ford dealership. They ran diagnostic testing and theft device testing. Inconclusive. Had two new keys made and reprogrammed. Started right up and drove it home. About 30 minutes later got in to go to dinner and nothing. No start. Again, no noise, no crank...nothing. Theft device not blinking when outside car and looking through window. It blinks after I put new key in and try to start the car. I just had it towed back to Ford dealership. Has anyone had similar problems? Any clues or advice on what to check next. It was running fine and starting fine until this started happening 2 weeks ago. Thanks
  • stevo41stevo41 Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Ford Explorer EB automatic transmission. Sometimes after driving it on the highway, when coming to a stop it will die. I put it park and it starts right away, but as soon as I put it in drive it dies. I can rev the engine while its in park, so it seems to me it's not fuel related. It doesn't do this all the time and when it does it takes about 1-2 hours and it will start running fine. Not sure if it's heat related but i seems to act up on 90+ days. I have takin it a mechanic three times who tested it and nothing shows up. Anyone with related issues... please help!
  • grego7grego7 Posts: 1
    I have the seemingly identical issue with my 2000 Explorer. Very frustrating. Nothing is indicated on the diagnostics. I read o0f a similar problem on another site with a post by a purported Ford technician - suggested that it was a "sticking IAC (idle air control solenoid), and that it wouldn't show a code on the diagnostics computer nor initiate the check engine light. Any luck figuring it out on your end? I'm probably going to try changing the IAC unless I find some other information.
  • stevo41stevo41 Posts: 2
    I actually heard the same thing. I'm going to change the IAC and hopefully that will do the trick. Thanks
  • borsbors Posts: 1
    edited August 2010
    I have a 1998 Explorer 6cyc. When started first thing in the morning the idle fluctuates between a low rough idle and ~2000rpms. It starts right up and at low idle it almost wants to stall but does not. After it warms up it runs fine and starts fine the rest of the day, the issue seems to be only in the morning.
  • barb2010barb2010 Posts: 4
    edited August 2010
    Did changing the IAC help??? I have a 2005 Explorer. It's been in the shop 3 times. It stalls while I'm driving. At 60 mph, while breaking, while accelerating. RPM's drop to zero and it dies. Not at any particular time or for any particular reason. This started last year. Last week it stalled 3 times backing out of my driveway and all the way to the dealership. I drove with my foot on the brake and the gas. It would not stall for them. The diagnostics showed nothing. They recalculated the computer and cleaned the fuel injector at $125. Drove good for 5 days and now it's doing a shimmy shimmy shake and the RPM needle is ALL OVER THER PLACE! A wrench dummy light came on after I drove it for 1/2 hour, parked for an hour and restarted it. Finally! The next time I started it, the light was out. Drove 30 miles and no light. Came out of the show, started the truck and there it was. Yesterday I called the dealership, started it and no light. There is no evidence of a problem. The computer doesn't show any problem. They still have it and want me to bring it back WHEN IT IS DOING IT! GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
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