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Chrysler LHS Maintenance and Repair

shadetree11shadetree11 Posts: 2
edited September 17 in Chrysler
The power steering rack on my LHS makes a whining sound when turning. This only happens when the outside temperature is over 70 degrees and the car is at operation temporature. The rack was replaced about 3 years ago and started making the noise about a year after it was installed. At that time I had the system flushed to replace the ATF3 fluid with ATF4 fluid to try and stop the noise at which time they discovered the filter in the reservoir bottle was all but clogged so they replaced the bottle. Any recommendations on what I can try other than living with it or replacing the power steering rack again?
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Comments

  • patrickrrpatrickrr Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 LHS that does the same exact thing. It has to be humid then it starts. I have flush the power steering fluid as well. To me the sound it more at firewall. I think the steering gears at the firewall must not keep moisture out. If I could crack the thing open I would try to spray some lube in it.
  • I have a 94 LHS, that keeps going into fail safe mode. Basically it keeps getting stuck in 2nd gear. It's the same as everyone else, it will drive good for a little while then, boom; it's in 2nd again. Does anyone know what the solution to fixing this is? From reading everyone else's post, they are spending lots of money and the problem still exist. Frustrated car owner here, help if you can. Thanks.
  • I have 99 LHS. A couple of years ago I started smelling fuel in the car, outside the car. They had a recal to replace O-rings? which made the fuel smell disappear. Now it ihas been for a while. Wondering if it is the same issue if I do not know what these O-rings are , what they do etc.
    Any info/advice someone can render I would love to hear . Thanks in advance.
  • The O rings are basically rubber gaskets that fit around the fuel injectors (cost about $6 each) that seal the fule form leaking out. Contact a Chrysler dealer to have you car fixed at no charge under the recall notice.
  • lhs976lhs976 Posts: 2
    i have a 2001 and it does the same thing. i brought it to the dealership and they sprayed it for me. seems to have done the trick.
  • I had the same problem with my 94 LHS and here is the unusual outcome. I don't know if it's a 94 year only problem but this trans, as you probably know, is electronically controlled by the powertrain computer and is connected via a large wiring harness which plugs into the top of trans. Pull the connector and harness out and take off the outer covering near the connector, I found Chrysler had wraped the wires with adhesive tape that somehow disolved the plastic coating on the wires allowing them to touch occasionally puting the trans into default limp-in mode. All you should have to do reisulate the wires and be good to go. I hope this helps you and saves you much time and grief. Bill
  • We need to replace a cradle to body isolator bushing and cannot find out anywhere how hard it is to do, or how to do this. We have the Chilton but it only shows how to replace the stabalizer bar the bushing needing replaced is on the front side of the passenger tire.Does anyone know if this is something that can be done wiothout any special tools and paying too much for labor.thank you
  • bug5bug5 Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 LHS with 72,000 miles. My question is when the vehicle sits overnight or for several hours their is a slight "clicking" sound from the top of the engine but then goes away very quickly. If the engine is hot and you turn the engine off and then restart their isn't any noise - only when it's cold. I believe the lifters which I think are hydraulic are leaking and have to reprime when the vehicle starts cold. So far no damage I am aware of has occured but I know I need to replace these items or get it fixed. What else could make this noise and is it expensive to fix.

    Thanks
  • leathersleathers Posts: 1
    On my LHS my fuel gauge is always reading Empty with the fuel light on with even as much as a half tank of gas in it. I did not know if it was a fuel economy problem like tuneup, or electrical problem, or if the needle just broke. I was on the high way and it came up a read the gas but then went right back down to E, this is the worst time to not know how much gas you have, help please..">
  • jayriderjayrider Posts: 3,323
    13 years is pretty good for a fuel gauge. Unless you are a mechanic, go to a reliable garage and have it diagnosed.
  • Can anyone help me with my door problem my driver side door will only lock manually I can lock it with the key or push the lock by hand to lock and unlock it. but the power switch for the locks on the driver side works but only for the other three doors. It will not operate the drivers door Also when I go to unllock the drivers door and open it the enterior lights do not come on but they come on when I unlock and lock the passenger (and if you haven't guessed I do not have the remote entry key pads
  • tsurnicktsurnick Posts: 42
    I would first check fuses, but i dont think that is the issue since your other three door locks are working. Your lights should be controled by a switch near the hinge of the door.when you close the door, it shuts the lights off and such. That might also link to your locking problem. i would look there first. when you open the door all the way look for a push button switch with a rubber cover around it. thats what mine has on it. with the door open your lights shoud be on. you can unscrew the switch and see if it is connected. if not, you need to look for the wire in the hole where it came out of. you can even try a toggle switch and see what happens just to test. try that and let us know what happens.

    hope that helps..

    tim
  • My 99 chrysler Lhs shutters while driving or stalls when ideling when it reaches operating temperature , then after that, it runs fine. What do you think is wrong?
  • I have been having the same exact problem. Driver side door. Been trying to figure this out for awhile now. My door lock switch was all jacked up so I thought thats all that needed to be fixed. Well, that wasnt it. Fuses - Relays are all okay, leaving me confused. Was anyone able to resolve this issue. Thanks
  • I had the same problem and one of the guys on here told me to look at the Idle air control valve. I got one of those books from the auto parts store that tells all about the car and looked at a picture of it and where it was on the engine. it was easy to replace. I also replaced the MAP sensor ( i dont know what it does) but it helped make the car run better too.
    Hope that helps.
  • 05 Town and Country Ltd doors do not lock or unlock using switchs on doors or key fob. Alarm beeps however. Cleaned posts on fuse 10D with pencil eraser and re-inserted. Problem fixed. Fuse 10D is hard to find as it is not included in the diagram on the fuse boxes inside cover. Look for it in the lower left quadrant of the box as your leaning over the fender. It is labeled by the fuse. Black 10D on black plastic look real close.
  • Oh wow I hope its gunna be this easy. Is it a fuse with 2 prongs, or the relay with 5 prong things? Also, is it the box under the hood or in the quarter panel inside the car? Cause I couldnt find anything labeled 10D. If i could post or somehow send you the 2 pics I got of the fuse boxes it would probably be more helpful. Thank you very much for replying to me. I didnt think anyone was ever going too. Thank you much.">
  • Gauges, air conditioning, message center NOT working.
    I just found number 14 fuse (5 amp) blown. I replaced it and everything came back on momentarily and then the fuse blew again. I am assuming there is a short. Where do I look first? I got 3 trouble codes also.

    1. Code 77 Speed Control Power Relay circut is open or shorted
    2. Code 21 Problem with Oxygen Sensor Signal Circuit, Sensor Voltage to computer not fluctuating.
    3. Code 12 Problem with the Battery Connection. Direct Battery Input to controller Disconnect within the last the last 50 ignition key-on cycles

    any Ideas?
  • I have a 1996 Chrysler LHS that for the past few months have been getting increasingly worse. The problems are (1) Rough/high/poor idling, (2) Incorrect Idle speed/stalling, (3) stalling and jerking when coming to a stop at traffic lights. Before I replaced my IAC valve/motor one week ago it had never cut off when I stopped at a stop light (which it did yesterday), also before I replaced my IAC valve/motor it idled at close to 4000 rpm when in park with the engine running, now it idles at 2200 at park with the engine running .Also I want to mention that my gas peddle have been sticking for as long as I can remember (even before my engine light came on at the beginning of my idle control problems). When my engine light came on in the beginning I had it checked for free at AAA Auto and they just told me the code and not what might be wrong with it. The code I received was “Fault Code P1294-Target Idle Not Reached”! Not wanting to spend the $80.00 to have Pepboys tell me what may be wrong and then another fee to fix it I decided to just have the IAC valve/motor replaced. I'm behind now $105.00 because the problem still is not fixed! After some more research I was wondering could it be the “EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION VALVE”? Also Is the IAC valve/motor another name for the “throttle control valve?” If not could my problem be with/in the “THROTTLE CONTROL VALVE?” Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  • You had the same problem I did. I replaced the IAC valve, Then the MAP sensor (which didnt do much) then I replaced the THROTTLE POSITION SWITCH. I think that is the one you need to look at next. I helped alot for me. On my 94 LHS it is on the left of the throttle body towards the passenger side of car if you were standing infront of the car. Its real easy to replace and i think it ran about 30 bucks or so. I have the 3.5 motor, i dont know if thats the same as yours though. You may want to look into replacing the intake manifold gaskets. it all comes in a kit but i cant remember how much it costs. They were real easy to do but it took me and a friend about 7-8 hours. we were in no hurry, so you could probably do it faster if you wanted to. I did Those three things and then did the intake manifold gaskets and it runs great now. If you see posts from Tuscanskipper on here, you should send him an email. He seems really knowledgable when it comes to LHS stuff and has helped me alot. He was the one who told me about the intake manifold gaskets. you should be able to do a search for those posts on here about that as well. good luck.. if you have anymore questions, feel free to reply back..

    tim
  • My LHS keeps stalling out on the road, we pull over it starts right back up, no hesitation on starting again, will do it here or there, no rhyme or reason. We just replaced both oxygen sensors, anyone have any ideas, there is no codes coming on.
  • i replace my sub frame bushings in the back naapa has the bushings for 75 a peice it was a 22mm that i used to do the back the front should be easier the dealer is charging 150 per bushing
  • i have replaced the cam shaft positioning sensor and the crank shaft positioning thinking that i would get a spark still nothing im about to buy the coil pack should this fi my problem or is there more i need to know
  • cooncoon Posts: 5
    I just bought sub frame bushings (isolators) from O'reilly's for 56.00 a pair
  • cooncoon Posts: 5
    need to replace sub frame bushings (isolators) does anyone know if special tools r needed and if its a big job?
  • Did you get the problem fixed?
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