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Chevrolet Venture Heating / Cooling

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Comments

  • I have a 2002 Chevy Venture. A few months ago my blower would go off and come on when ever it pleased. I had the Knobs replace as one had cracked and fell off. $240. They told me it may or may not fix the issue but it was the place to start. It has worked fine for about two months. Suddenly today when it was freezing and I had to take the kids to school (windshield iced up) the blower wouldn't work again. The Back one DOES work just having this issue with the front one!! Any ideas?
  • Hey bondfamily,

    So I had a similar problem not too long ago and it turned out to be the blower motor resistor, I ended up testing and replacing it myself, but it took appx 4 to 6 hrs of work due to the location of it, it is a pain to get to, but can be done. (flexibility is very helpful lol) I replaced the one on my mothers van about 2 yrs ago when i was 16. The best instructions i found came out of a Haynes vehicle repair manual where it was step by step instruction on how to test and replace if needed the resistor.

    It is located under the passenger side glove box and must be accessed through the carpeted insulation panel which must be removed there. From there the blower motor must be removed with screws in hard to reach areas (a ratchet set with extensions is extremely helpful) and then the resistor can be removed. Once it is removed, there is a diagram for testing it with a multimeter to see if it is non functioning.

    It is also possible, but not as likely as the resistor with this type of van, that there is a leak in the vacuum system which would require more detective work in seeing if there is a vacuum pull on the system. One easy and not always accurate way to test that is to turn on the car cycle the switch for the blower from off to on to off then turn the car off and cycle it again. On the cycle when the car is off if you hear a creaking/odd noise it probably still has vacuum.

    ~Ricky
  • Thanks for the reply Ricky! I was afraid it would be something I couldn't do myself - err I hate paying for the labor, but it's worth it for me. Hope it doesn't cost too terribly much.
  • No, if it is the resistor i have no doubt about it that you can do it. The resistor part number is in the manual i mentioned (i dont have it with me) and i got an oem replacement part for around 50 with shipping off a generic "parts" website provided thats what the problem is. The haynes manual i got off amazon minimally used for like 5 dollars and it was in mint condition. Get the manual irregardless of it being the resistor or not bc that thing was a God-send in saving money and has step by step photos for other thing but i would recommend testing the resistor before buying a new one. If it is, you can drive around without the panel and motor and resistor in place, but just be cautious no one gets snagged or kicks up inside of it until the new one comes.
  • also, i found this in post 17 at the beginning of this thread. this is a diagram of the power plug and clip that gets plugged in to the resistor:

    begin---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -----------

    OK here goes -

    pull the connector from the blower motor resistor - as you're looking at the plug with the"slots " which clip the wire to the resistor at the top...

    The connector looks something like this as you look at it:
    ________________________________
    _____!____!___!______________!____!____!______
    !__________________________________________!
    !_____!____!______!_____!_______!_____!_______!
    !__G__!_F_!___E__!__D__!___C___!__B_!___A__!
    !_____!____!______!_____!_______!___ _!_______!!

    I filled in the letters for clarity - making this diagram was a pain!!!

    E is the ground - touch one probe to it from your test light or multimeter to it for each test and follow this order - each terminal corresponds to a blower setting. You should get about 12 volts for each test (ignition on - engine not running) The blower resistor then steps down the voltage to get the blower to spin at the appropriate speed.

    A+ E = SPEED SETTING #2
    B+E= SPEED #1
    C+E= SPEED #4
    D+E= SPEED # 3
    F+E = SPEED # 5 (HIGH)
    G IS HOT AT ALLTIMES YOU SHOULD ALWAYS GET 12 v HERE

    If you don't get 12v at each when you change the switch to the corresponding setting and test then the switch is most likely the problem (assuming that the connector at the back of the switch is attached securely and that the wires are in good condition) If all get 12 volts when you switch to them then the blower resistor is most likely NG.

    This gives you enough info to test it - let me know how you make out..

    end------------------------------------------------------------------------------ --------------

    if you have anymore question or want more info just reply and ill do my best

    Ricky
  • My temp gauge went from 1/2 way mark to 1/4 mark down to not even registering now in 1 week. I still get heat and I have checked the overflow which is good and even took the radiator cap off to verify coolant level. Radiator is full. Concerns?????
  • tamaracw69tamaracw69 Posts: 1
    I have replaced thermostat, water pump, the cap and still don't understand why it's over heating? There is a lot of pressure on the hoses and I have burped it several times.. With no change does anyone know what it could be still?
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