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Chevrolet Venture Heating / Cooling

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  • Hi there,

    I'm new here.

    I just bought a 2003 Chev Venture from an Autobody shop. They had fixed all the problems and got it safetied. I have the paperwork and everything. One thing I noticed when I'm driving the van...

    When I'm driving long periods, the heat is working, very slowly...... but when I'm driving short periods. I get no heat, even when I stop at the lights, the heat cools off and it feels like it's blowing A/C. Mind you, I live in Winnipeg and it'll get dang cold in the middle of winter. Considering it's almost Nov and it's getting colder. I was wondering if this is an easy fix that my hubby can do? Or is this a normal thing??

    Please help...
  • check coolant level, in Radiator FULL and proper level in overflow bottle as well. make sure hose connects overflow to radiator cap,

    ,,check or replace rad cap 14 or 15 lbs, or swap with another car

    You must have 50/50 fluid ,,protected to like 40 below F.,,,i am from MN and it get cold here as well.

    there is also a burp screw on top of the manifold to let air out. open it and when solid fluid comes out close it. look at owners manual i believe it tells you about it

    other than that the thermostat is not that hard to replace in case it's stuck open when done need to burp it.

    Can you feel the hoses going into the heater core ,,,is one very hot like you can touch it for a second and you must let go and the other cool ?

    I can't recall what changes it from hot to cool,,is it cable operated ,,,gotta SEE FEEL , TAKE APART stuff underneath until you get to the air blend door to see if it's moving fully from hot to cold all the way.

    I personally went a junk yard and took one apart.1st. then took mine apart for water leaking into operator AREA from air conditioning,, i could get all they to the heater core it was not hard but a bunch of stuff needed to come out and GO BACK IN The SAME WAY

    put a temp gauge in the a/c vent outlet and have it blow out at operator like you would on A/C it should at least 140-150 degree F it is just sitting there the stat could be good

    do the cooling fans run when you turn on A/c ?

    are the cooling fans on all the time, i assume you don't have the rear coolant heater option
  • the speed control knob is stuck in the off position. any ideas on fixing this would be a big help. right now i have no heat /cool/defrost
  • have same problem as u need help only thing is i dont have a bad head gasket i need some help i got some air out which gave me heat for 2 days if i flush the system will this owrk get the air out
  • ned help with my 2001 venture had the problem of no air no heat fixed the air flow was dirty filters in your glove compartment almost fixed the heat problem believe there was air somewhere in system so we got some out got heat 2 days later no heat but even when i had heat for 2 days my defrost would not throw heat i have looked all over for answers if i flush the system would this work [also already changed thermostat] to get the air out cause i have cold/warm air when im driving or giving it gas in park need help its frezing and my kids said they rather walk little warmer in the sun lol
  • Did you look in ownsers manual?
    Is there a code on for check engine light
    Collant leve in rad has to be up and the overflow tank needs to be at proper level KEEP an eye on the leve every time you open the hood of lack hot air.
    I would syas you need to bleed the one or two screws on top of the engine ( to purge the air and get a solid stream of collant ,,and it should be a 50/50 mixture, once you do that then make sure the system is full again.
    I would look in my owners manual but i's not handy and or look under the hood to see if there are two blled screws or just one, I think tow and they look alike. as i recall you loosen them with engine running and collant and air come out (it's easier if you do not remove them completley) that should help you out.
    I didcovered the problem when i changed my stat.
    <<<
    also feel the hoses especailly to and from the heater core if one is hot and the other cool it could be a heater core issue,, I assume you have a working cable ( i think that adjusts a door form hot to cold) this is likley not the answer i you had temp heat for 2 days..unless you moved the air blend door in conjusction as to wehn you had heat.
    ...
    Heat in my vneture gets very hot needs to be turned downafter you get going, and seems very hot in summer and my CD's a very hot to the tocuh. SUPER HOT almost to the point you don't want to tocuch them. Not sure if that is heat related however.
    ~~
    lots of luck
    If you can't find bleeder screws ask a mechanic type person or if needed write back, sorry for the delay,
  • tauer1tauer1 Posts: 1
    Did this harness problem relate to the blower motor resistor problem? I have some of the same problems in the same van. Passenger side window will go down from the driver side but not up. The drivers side window seems to have intermittent power problems. The heat only works on 4,5,6 nothing on 1,2,3. Should I be replacing the blower motor resistor first or going after this wiring harness on the driver side?
  • I have experienced the same problem on my 05 venture and living in rural Manitoba I understand what cold is. I replaced the cabin air filters in the glove box and the air flow is much better (but still cool). I spoke with a mechanic and he indicated that replacing the filters is a waste of $$ as it is the same air we breathe as soon as we step outside the vehicle. His suggestion - throw them out and do not replace.

    Now I am looking at replacing the either the T-stat or possibly the heater core as I have air flow but insufficient heat. However I cannot find a schematic to show me where these items are located. any other advice or direction is much appreciated.
  • you know you might be wasting a lot of time and $ if you don't burp the engine 1st.. After replacing stat or doing any any engine coolant related work YOU MUST URP the baby otherwise it has air on top and the collant doesn't circualte just air and some collant, there are plugs on top of the engine, they need to be loosened up till you get solid fluid and I believe there are Two of them ,look at owners manual or go to library for free acess to ALLDATA. IF you find out excatly how to do it please publish it for others.

    FYI I tore my dash apart ( due to a/c water leaking inside cab) and heater core is is a job to get to ,,nothing difficult just time i did not remove it however, not sure how easy it will be to remove & RE-INSTALL HEATER HOSES TO THE HEATER CORE in the engine comprtment side. GOOD LUCK
  • cach22cach22 Posts: 12
    I doubt the blower motor resistor problem is directly related to the wiring harness problem.

    I would replace the blower motor resistor first if for no other reason than to quickly fix the problem and move on the next issue with your van. It sounds as if you can get around the wiring harness for now.

    I had the same issue with the fan only working on certain speeds. First, 1 quit working, then 2. Before I could figure what was going on, 3 had quit working.

    The most difficult part of replacing the resistor is accessing some of the screws. The resistor is located inside the blower motor housing under that dash on the passenger side. The price of a new resistor is between $35 and $40. The new resistor is much better protected than the old one.
  • I have a 2002 Chevy Venture. A few months ago my blower would go off and come on when ever it pleased. I had the Knobs replace as one had cracked and fell off. $240. They told me it may or may not fix the issue but it was the place to start. It has worked fine for about two months. Suddenly today when it was freezing and I had to take the kids to school (windshield iced up) the blower wouldn't work again. The Back one DOES work just having this issue with the front one!! Any ideas?
  • Hey bondfamily,

    So I had a similar problem not too long ago and it turned out to be the blower motor resistor, I ended up testing and replacing it myself, but it took appx 4 to 6 hrs of work due to the location of it, it is a pain to get to, but can be done. (flexibility is very helpful lol) I replaced the one on my mothers van about 2 yrs ago when i was 16. The best instructions i found came out of a Haynes vehicle repair manual where it was step by step instruction on how to test and replace if needed the resistor.

    It is located under the passenger side glove box and must be accessed through the carpeted insulation panel which must be removed there. From there the blower motor must be removed with screws in hard to reach areas (a ratchet set with extensions is extremely helpful) and then the resistor can be removed. Once it is removed, there is a diagram for testing it with a multimeter to see if it is non functioning.

    It is also possible, but not as likely as the resistor with this type of van, that there is a leak in the vacuum system which would require more detective work in seeing if there is a vacuum pull on the system. One easy and not always accurate way to test that is to turn on the car cycle the switch for the blower from off to on to off then turn the car off and cycle it again. On the cycle when the car is off if you hear a creaking/odd noise it probably still has vacuum.

    ~Ricky
  • Thanks for the reply Ricky! I was afraid it would be something I couldn't do myself - err I hate paying for the labor, but it's worth it for me. Hope it doesn't cost too terribly much.
  • No, if it is the resistor i have no doubt about it that you can do it. The resistor part number is in the manual i mentioned (i dont have it with me) and i got an oem replacement part for around 50 with shipping off a generic "parts" website provided thats what the problem is. The haynes manual i got off amazon minimally used for like 5 dollars and it was in mint condition. Get the manual irregardless of it being the resistor or not bc that thing was a God-send in saving money and has step by step photos for other thing but i would recommend testing the resistor before buying a new one. If it is, you can drive around without the panel and motor and resistor in place, but just be cautious no one gets snagged or kicks up inside of it until the new one comes.
  • also, i found this in post 17 at the beginning of this thread. this is a diagram of the power plug and clip that gets plugged in to the resistor:

    begin---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -----------

    OK here goes -

    pull the connector from the blower motor resistor - as you're looking at the plug with the"slots " which clip the wire to the resistor at the top...

    The connector looks something like this as you look at it:
    ________________________________
    _____!____!___!______________!____!____!______
    !__________________________________________!
    !_____!____!______!_____!_______!_____!_______!
    !__G__!_F_!___E__!__D__!___C___!__B_!___A__!
    !_____!____!______!_____!_______!___ _!_______!!

    I filled in the letters for clarity - making this diagram was a pain!!!

    E is the ground - touch one probe to it from your test light or multimeter to it for each test and follow this order - each terminal corresponds to a blower setting. You should get about 12 volts for each test (ignition on - engine not running) The blower resistor then steps down the voltage to get the blower to spin at the appropriate speed.

    A+ E = SPEED SETTING #2
    B+E= SPEED #1
    C+E= SPEED #4
    D+E= SPEED # 3
    F+E = SPEED # 5 (HIGH)
    G IS HOT AT ALLTIMES YOU SHOULD ALWAYS GET 12 v HERE

    If you don't get 12v at each when you change the switch to the corresponding setting and test then the switch is most likely the problem (assuming that the connector at the back of the switch is attached securely and that the wires are in good condition) If all get 12 volts when you switch to them then the blower resistor is most likely NG.

    This gives you enough info to test it - let me know how you make out..

    end------------------------------------------------------------------------------ --------------

    if you have anymore question or want more info just reply and ill do my best

    Ricky
  • My temp gauge went from 1/2 way mark to 1/4 mark down to not even registering now in 1 week. I still get heat and I have checked the overflow which is good and even took the radiator cap off to verify coolant level. Radiator is full. Concerns?????
  • tamaracw69tamaracw69 Posts: 1
    I have replaced thermostat, water pump, the cap and still don't understand why it's over heating? There is a lot of pressure on the hoses and I have burped it several times.. With no change does anyone know what it could be still?
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