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needing replacement and that it costs too much, $1,000.
I have had no problems yet with it and is still under warranty till 70k and I am at 66k. It did shut down recently, but had all the symptoms as if caused by the fuel filter needing replacement. The dealer said after it was towed to him, that it started up and ran fine. I made him replace the fuel filter anyways. I never heard about the ERG issue till today. How much does it cost and how do I know when it is to be replaced ? I do not trust that the dealer is being thorough and jumping to catch these things while still under warranty. The dealer has been more ambitious trying to get me to trade in and buy new.
I am not so sure if I even really want to sell it, as I am the first owner and originally intended to convert to bio-diesel or veggie. Since the BP spill and prices upping ,I am reconsidering. Any replies and comments welcome thank you in advance. Also, anybody know how I can purchase extra warranty coverage at this point past the original 70 k coverage?
did dealer put car on the drb III scanner to see if there were any egr or turbo codes?
many dealers do not want to put any effort into repair of these vehicles under warranty. i guess chrysler does not pay them enough.
some of these liberty diesels including mine and my friend's, decide (ECM) to stop providing highway power, and just go into limping mode. in both cases, just shutting off the engine and letting the ecm reset, cured the event. this happened one time to each of our vehicles.
What are symptoms of bad erg valve ???
How do I know? I took my gas Liberty in because it was sputtering and they cleaned the throttle body. When I took my diesel Libby in for the same problem that was when I learned..no throttle body on diesel. They changed the exhaust gas recirculation valve and that solved my sputtering problem. It only had about 12,000 miles back then and the new one now has 90,000 trouble free miles. I think the new ones are made of stainless steel so they don't clog up.
I have studied auto mechanics all my life. I couldn't imagine how to control an engine without a throttle body.
With gas, the carburetor uses the airflow to draw the gas into a spray mixture before introduction to the combustion chamber. Opening the throttle causes more air to enter at a faster rate and it draws more gas which translates to more power.
With injection such as the diesel has, the air is constant. There is always pressure from the outside atmosphere. If you wish to add power, first add fuel. That causes the pistons to be pushed downward with more force, thereby drawing in more air to which you add more fuel and away you go. Why doesn't it rev out of control? It can't because the injectors are limiting the amount of fuel.
Think of a campfire. There is a constant amount of air available. If you want more heat (power) add more fuel. The amount of fuel controls the amount of heat (power). If you blow on a campfire, you are adding to the amount of air available as with adding a turbo charger to a diesel.
I guess the bottom line is this, even with a wide open air intake, the diesel can only rev as fast as the amount of fuel available. And the injectors control that.
Seems to me they could eliminate the throttle body on gas engines too if they have fully controllable injectors. I do know the gas throttle body is used to measure the amount of throttle pedal being applied but since gas is so much more volatile perhaps that is why they still use a throttle body on gas.
Who knows, in time maybe the throttle body will be a thing of the past just like the distributor and points on pre 1970's cars.
I use Howes diesel treatment with every fill up and I have not had any problems related to the engine or fuel system.
EXCEPT, you need to change the fuel filter at least every 15,000 miles. I aim for 10,000. AND be sure you use the fuel treatment that removes water and prevents gelling in cool weather. Not just COLD weather, cool as down to 40 degrees F. Water can cause running problems if the filter gets too much water in it.
One time I had almost no power when I left the house. I stopped at a station where lots of semis stop for meals and was told to add Howes. I used about double the recommended amount and let it idle for about five minutes to circulate. When I took off, still no power but about five miles up the road the power came back and problem solved. There was too much water in the filter and the Howes split it up little by little so it could be drawn through and burned. Using a good fuel additive wil prevent that little frustrating problem.
About 18 months after I bought it they called and suggested I bring it in for software updates. It shifted into fifth gear a bit later but I have had none of the problems experienced by other owners. That must have been the magic bullet.
The only problems I have had since are all related to fuel filters. So now if there is a problem that is the first thing I do.
He was un-willing to do anything twlling me by the time I arrive the rental place next door would be closed and that I would have to get a car from the airport. Guess ? no pick up. The service people at 7 pm were un friendly un accomodating and all spoke english clearly as their 1rst language. After 3 hrs. of inconvienance and I recalled what I read on this forum and calmly started my jeep up yes it was resetted and drove away knowing I was not going to trust this dealer to insure that the problem was addressed before I drive through 2 days of desert to get home. Now the Jeep Chrysler road service could not even give me accurate dealerships as I found 2 no longer existed. So I had them tow the jeep from a motel to Dublin. Both Dublin and San Jose dealers could not even look at it until Tuesday. So since it and we are sitting from Friday to Tuesday idol awaiting hopefully a reliable solution so that I do not end up broken down with my family again. WTF, I am outraged that we are treated this way. A homeless person with no credit and nothing ,gets better regard than I have gotten from Chrysler Jeep after purchasing this CRD new in 2005. This is like if your stupid enough to buy my poorly made throw away product for over 20k, then you deserve to get f'ed.
does BP own Chrysler Jeep as well? I had an alternator go out at 30k and have had so many other things that should not have been.100.00 deductable a pop and countless inconvienances and after reading others experiences esp. with the gas non crd, I cannot sell this jeep fast enough!
I suggest you write to the chrysler complaint dept. the address should be in your owners manual and let them know how you were treated by that dealer. maybe they should have let that one go under and keep one of the others that are now gone. I sure hope they get a definite answer to this problem. Makes me wonder if the other dealer actually changed the filter.
You might have had a lot of water in the fuel tank.
Call it overkill if you wish, but I use a treatment summer and winter. Pick a brand that removes water and use it every fill up. From here I can't be certain that was your problem but it would at least rule that out.
Something else just came to mind. Twice traveling on interstate, I pulled into rest stop and left engine running to be certain the turbo had time to cool down. With the air conditioner running. When I came out and tried to leave, I headed down the entrance ramp and punched it to merge into traffic and there was no extra power. I had to dive for the shoulder because there were semis coming. Not knowing what to think, I coasted far off the road and turned the key off. After about a minute I restarted and this time it ran perfect. Two times that happened.
I mentioned that to my diesel tech and he said there were no reports of that in any tech bulletins. But twice it happened in exactly identical circumstances. Now if I leave it idle when I hit the rest stop, I turn the key off for a minute and restart before I head back into traffic.
I sure hope your problem gets fixed and that is the end of your troubles.
My CRD has been trouble free for almost 50,000 miles. I hope yours will to now.
Best of luck to you.
A little background: My check engine light said P1140, the part numbers they said I needed were: 5142799AA (this is what the dealer called the throttle body) and 55037730AD a hose (not quite sure where to).
5142799AA seems to be related to the EGR valve and is number 6 on this diagram link title Still when I look up the part through a Mopar catalog, Mopar calls it a Throttle valve, so go figure??
Anyhow, it is this throttle valve that is the largest problem, I have read on several occasions others with this same problem where their throttle valve is not working correctly and they have a hard time with their car and it ends up stalling from time to time, slowing or not able to accelerate when you get to a certain RPM, mine did this getting onto the highway and my pedal was floored. Shaky starts and stops where the engine kinda rumbles beneath you. (more than normal)
The kicker is that at least in the USA, this 5142799AA part is on back order, and not even available till the end of this month. I've been waiting for quite a while. The only good news is this part is held in place by just a few screws and it is pretty easy to get to. I am going to try my hand at fixing it myself. Maybe you can too, (if you're out of warranty.) it looks pretty easy, and I'm a girl. LOL.
Well good luck and hope it turns out well for you
If you can stand it, pump the tires to the highest number allowed on the sidewall of the tire. The ride will stiffen and the railroad tracks may become a terror but mileage WILL improve. If you need the air conditioning on, use the recirculation setting and operate the fan at the lowest speed you can be comfortable with.
The jack rabbit start and the tires are probably the two biggest ones in the suggestions.
I hope that gives you some help. I live in the country and usually only go to small towns about 15 miles away, so who knows, if I lived in big city maybe I would only get 15 mpg.
Best of luck, I'm glad you have a good runner.
Mine now has 90,000 miles and it only went to the dealer for the recalls. NO problems here.
I know, ....... I am a very lucky guy.
* The highest cetane you can buy is 50 in the USA and you will find it called Premium Diesel. But, really the lowest is 40 - so you're safe pretty much anywhere in between;
* Use of additives isn't really necessary, as most bulk sellers will have added a winter blend - usually Power Service to their tanks starting in October up North.
* If you want to use an additive, the best is Stanadyne - which does not contain alcohol or methanol - IOW it won't freeze in the tool box. Other choices like Lucas, Howes and Power Service are ok to use. Use Power Service "Red" for emergency only.
* Going to a narrower tire will improve mileage without jolting you around by maxing out the pressure. Just remember to have your mechanic adjust the tranny, if not the same rolling dimension.
* Always carry a spare oil and fuel/water separator in your tool box. One load of water will remind you to bring them. Make sure you dump your water separator every 5-8k miles - in a safe place and not near groundwater.
* Brand loyalty aside - diesel fuel is diesel fuel, there's no difference between brands, only the amount of water that's in the tanks. It all comes out of the same pipeline, exc for Cenex. Cenex (PNW) has a soy blend which keeps our engines running much better than regular #2D.
The first time I had a problem a guy suggested adding Howes and about ten miles down the road the power came back. I have added it every fill since then.
Thanks for the tip about Cenex. My Libby loves the 20% soy blend I buy at a station in Monroe, WI. It runs noticeably quieter on that.
Other people have mentioned Stanadyne, I believe I will hunt some down. I never noticed it at the store where I buy my Howes.
Thanks for the info.
Only maintenance I have had to do if fluids, filters and belts.
One of the best vehicles I ever bought. Plows right thru good sized snow drifts, has no problem digging itself thru mud in the farm fields, and will pull a full 300 gallon fuel wagon thru the field without hesitation. And it is a real pleasure to drive. Wife is willing to shoot anyone who tries to take the Liberty from her! We enjoy a big laugh when someone comes up to her when she is fueling and says something like "do you know you are putting diesel in there?" She just tells them that she heard it got better fuel mileage than gasoline.
Not bad having a solid vehicle that will tackle a lot of stuff and still get better fuel mileage than a lot of cars. I do use Howes additive in the winter (same stuff we used when I lived in Alaska for 10 years), but year round I use PRI-D from Power Research. Marine boating places have it, but I usually buy online at better pricing. This a great product that really perfoms. I have been using it in my semi, ag tractor, and jeep for quite a while and it really does a great job.
I've been having an ERG problem too. The dealer I took it to quoted me something like 600 some for parts and an additional 400 for installation.
I've been hemming and hawing for quite a while now, cause it's so expensive, and then finally decided that I'm going to fix it myself. When I called some other dealers, must be variations on what dealers quote people, I have part number 5142799AA lists for 385.00, this is the EGR also sometimes called the throttle body by some dealers, but it's a misnomer cause there is no true throttle body in a diesel.
I am also getting the gasket that goes between this, it is super cheap and ranges between 2.90 and 4. The part number is 5142613AA
This part is fairly easy to get to, and appears to be held on by three screws. All quite accessible.
The only unfortunate thing is the EGR part is on back order and they keep pushing it further and further back. Now they say that this part will be ready August 31! Wow that's a long wait.
thanks
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/05-06-JEEP-LIBERTY-EGR-VALVE-CRD-2-8L-DIESEL-MOPA- - R-OEM-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ad6d201d8QQitemZ390151143896QQptZMotorsQ5fCar- - Q5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
The flow control valve (FCV) is in the intake where some would think a throttle body would be. It is not a throttle body, but it does work in conjuction with the EGR and it is there also to keep the engine from "shuttering" when shut down. It was notorious for breaking since it used plastic gears. It has been improved. Could not locate one of those on Ebay.
The key to keeping that EGR from being a continual problem is two fold: You have to keep the CCV from puking oil into the turbo, which then flows into the charge air cooler and then on to the intake. This oil laden air then gets mixed with what the EGR sends to the intake and you have a gummed up mess that builds up in the intake and will coat the boost sensor. The only way to handle this is either to install a Provent system or just disconnect the hose from the CCV and plug it off then get some more hose and attach to the CCV and route to the ground. This is affectionately known as the Elephant Hose Modification (EHM). It is cheap and easy to do, but it will drip oil from the end of the hose.
The next easy modification is what is called the Off Road Modification (ORM). It involves just unplugging the Mass Airflow Sensor near the air box. It has been determined by others, that this simple unplug will cause the ECM to restrict the amount of EGR that is used. Won't stop it completely, but will reduce it. It also throws a CEL, but some of us have the ScanGauge II plugged into the OBD port and just clear out the code after starting up.
You have got to get a handle on the oily air coming from the CCV. It is a hocky puck looking device on the valve cover. That is critiical.
If you are serious about really taking care of the EGR issues, as well as performance issues, then I would recommend the ECM tune by Green Diesel Engineering.
http://www.greendieselengineering.com/goPage.do?method=home
This is a total ECM reprogram and not some add on chip or plug in box. It is well tested and reliable. The cost is not cheap, but will solve a number of issues with the stock program. And, it dramatically reduces EGR function.
Basically, use a good quality synthetic oil in the CRD, stop the oily air from getting in the intake, and reduce EGR function. This will do the most for reducing issues with this great little engine. Driving style is also very important. Soot will really build if you are doing the jackrabbit starts and driving it like a sports car. Diesels perform best when given steady accelerator and not stabbing it. It takes time for the turbo to spool up and get the boost where it needs to be. If you floor it, it will tend to overfuel and generate high soot. You don't have to drive like grandma, but accerate the pedal gradually and not just stomp it.
- at truck stops you frequent
- mileage averages whether city or highway it all adds up a hefty 30+
- and if you like the fast lane you suffer the low mileage
- but if you drive conservatively you reap the benefits of best mileage
- don't be a left lane hugger if you can't keep up with the speeders they all pay
I have no oil in the hoses to and from the CAC save for a slight film. I clean the boost pressure sensor on the intake manifold every 5000 miles (when I do an oil change). The little filter that goes on the boost controller gets changed yearly.
As to EGR care, Caribou1 as well as the dealer have the same suggestion and that is to stomp on the gas from a dead start several times per week to blast all of the carbon out of the EGR and combustion chamber. I have been doing this religiously for several years with good results.
As to a good synthetic oil, I agree. Avoid Mobil 1 as they have not kept up with technology. Amsoil is okay as is RedLine. I am using LubroMoly 5W-40 Synthoil. It like RedLine has a a low vaporization rate and very little oill consumption.
I am thinking about buying a Liberty CRD to eventually run biofuel. Could you tell me who you buy your fuel from and what it costs to deliver?
Thanks!
I just purchased a 2006 jeep crd limited that I will be towing wiht my motorhome. and I am considering getting an ARB bumper to weld tow bar fittings onto rather than going with the standard tow plated that cost around $400 anyway.
I figure the bumper will protect the jeep against preditors!
How satisfied are you with your ARB and can I get a pic ?
One guy told me that they sticg out too far, so I wonder how they look from the side.
Thanks: Bob
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SUVs and Smart Shopper
i jsut bought a 2006, still waiting for it to be shipped to me from Tx. to Ca. I have been doing my homework and have a list of things I will need to do to it when it gets here.
I have had a Dodge diesel pick up since 1991 and it has been bullet proof. I have done a few things to it over the years to increase it's MPG and power and I intend to keep it forever. Diesels are intimidating because they are not normal to us. But once you get into them they are not much different than gas engines and a simplier stronger design.
Read this, it is one of themost important minor maintenance things you must do.
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=50930&p=566347&hilit=J- eep+liberty+crd%2C+air+intake#p566347
There are many other articles in this forum that will get you on the right track.
Bob
My only problem with biodiesel would be in wintertime. When temps drop to 40F or colder be certain to add a fuel conditioner that prevents gelling and will remove water. Make sure it can do both, add according to the instructions and you will have no problem using biodiesel fuel up to 20%.. If you find a higher percentage I recommend doubling the amount of fuel treatment. Brands I have heard recommended are, Stanadyne, and Howes. There probably are others that work well too.
http://www.biodiesel.org/buyingbiodiesel/retailfuelingsites/
If you plan on keeping it for awhile, bite the bullet and get the GRD eco-tune, ($450).
It will pay for itself in MPG within a year or 2.
A Provent 200, is another item that will protect your engine from accumulating oil and gunk. If you shop the internet, they run around $150 or so.
A dirty air filter will also screw with your MPG. AFE makes a Dry high flow air filter for the Liberty. The CRD used the same filter as the gas Liberty.
i have had my Crd since August, I have been averaging about 24mpg Mixed driving and 28-30mpg strictly freeway.
Best of luck: Bob 2006 CRD limited
Its nickel and dime repairs are unacceptable.
I lost the transmission at 60K
I just lost the turbo at 90K
I lost the bearing in the 4WD at 65K
Major part failings that often, and that early are simple larceny.
Jeep should be ashamed.
there are few factory mechanics in the USA who know alot about these, due to their scarsity. The backyard mechanice on these forums, are way ahead of most paid mechanics as far as knowledge about the CRD.
In every vehicle there are Lemons and others that require little or no maintenance. This is mainly the result of the Manufacturers lack of quality control that led them into trouble the past 2 years.
Personally I really like my 2006 CRD. but I read all the Forums, complaints and fix's prior to purchasing it and I made the recommended improvements within a month of buying it.
Best of luck: Bob
I got my '06 LTD Jeep certified pre-owned delivered to AZ from NJ with 9K miles on it and have thus far only done the normal maintenance called for by the book, plus replacement of the left rear window regulator.
Freebie, indeed, now (almost ready for a recall) by any dealer for 06 owners.
I've got 68K miles and she runs great, giving about 19-21 MPG combined city/hwy 25-70 MPH with 235-75/15, Big-O off road tread tires. I try to drive it for economy, slowing down way in advance to avoid stopping at lights, and most of the time I save my exploitation of the full range of travel of the accelerator pedal to passing where speeds can hit 85 for very short spurts.
I've towed a trailer with a cord of wood several times, and do some near-technical off road, desert driving in sand & on mountain cow paths. I have run B100 to pure petro-diesel with no issues. My friends are as enamored with my rig as I am, and wouldn't have believed where it can go if they weren't sitting right there with me! The 2 chicken handles on each side have come in handy.
I want to know more about these necessary aftermarket parts folks say are needed.
I agree this thing pulls a trailer like its not even there, my 2000 Liberty would fishtail while pulling my 2 quads on a 16' flatbed, this liberty I do not even feel it back there and it runs steep hills with little effort.
I cant stress how much I love this little SUV. I have owned many vehicles, mostly Ford, and this thing is awesome. The low end torque of the CRD is great for passing on the NJ Turnpike, handles wet and snow covered roads well. It doesnt feel like a tank like my wifes Explorer does. I average 20mpg, which could be improved upon.
I havent done any customization yet but planning to in the near future especially now that my NJ inspection is about to run out.
I have been plagued with CEL's mostly to the EGR 5 of them now and did suffer from getting oil in the intake. CEL would come on about 5 miles after leaving the dealership. My extended 100k warranty covered the repairs less $100 deduct.
One big problem I have is, I am continuously putting on new tires due to wear. I dont spin the tires and try to keep the alignment in check but the tires just wear and wear.
Other issue I have is the Chrysler Jeep dealers near me do not have any qualified shop techs to work on the italian CRD. I get refered to Dodge dealers with diesel techs, but they also dont now much out the CRD since its not an american powerplant.
I have found a local VW guy that wants to take my maintenance repairs and feel comfortable with the CRD since he has alot of TDI experience. But I have to wait for the warranty to run out since he cant bill Chrysler.
Bottom line, 8.5 out of 10. I hope I can keep my Lib CRD forever or atleast pass it along to my son in 4 years or find another low mileage CRD for him.
It sounds to me as if the dealer mechanic was learning on yours from the book as he worked on it.
I was so fortunate as to have a five star dealer intent on keeping on top of everything. He sent his Cummins mechanic to dealer training as soon as the CRD showed up on the radar. The guy was sharp, no problems after his work.
Under warranty we had the problem with the torque converter which required the trans to be disassembled for a thorough cleaning. Particles from the damaged torque converter had gotten in there and made a mess. So I got a free trans tune up at about 24K.
The EGR got replaced at about 13K when it started running erratic. I must have gotten the good one as it still has not needed service and now has 104K. Nothing else has gone wrong. Nothing.
I replace the fuel filter about every 15K just to be safe and always use a fuel treatment like Howes. That prevents junk from forming and causing problems. I live in So. WI so the weather here bounces back and forth something fierce. We are bound to have water in our fuel so I use the Howes faithfully. Another good one I see bragged on is Stanadyne.
Another factor that might be helping me keep the fuel clean is Biodiesel. I get it every time I am in the right place. Near me is a shop that has 20%. Between that and the Howes I have never had a fuel related problem.
I know from reading that biodiesel used in an older unit can plug the filter as it is cleaning residue from the fuel system. That IS a good thing unless you get stranded by a clogged fuel filter. One guy wrote he had to change his filter four times before it finally cleaned all the junk from his ten year old Dodge Cummins. Imagine, all that build up over the years.
My Libby loves the biofuel. If I have to run a full tank of dino diesel and then fill it with 20% biodiesel, it only takes a few miles down the road before the engine gets a lot quieter. Amazing to say the least.
I like to know the bio is lubing all the critical parts under that hood. The sulfur used to do that but now they are required to have ultra low sulfur at the pump so something has to replace the lubricant.
There is alga biofuel on the horizon if Valcent Industries can get enough investors interested in a new project. Check it out at you tube. Valcent alga. Very promising.
But don't knock yourself out. With regular oil changes and synthetic oil, that little dynamo four cylinder should easily go 300K before needing any machine work.
It's not like gasoline engines that wash down the oil in the cylinders. The diesel is more of a lubricant than an irritant.
Best of luck to you.
Provent,; $160
In tank fuel pump & sending unit; $25 on Ebay, out of a 2005 dodge diesel pick-up.
AFE, dry, high flow air filter; $40
GRD (green diesel) eco tune: $400
Transgo transmission shift kit; $35
Sedimentator, pre-fuel filter water/debris remover (not really necessary) came across it on EBAY and it seemed kinda neat, extends the life of the fuel filter and does not have a cartridge.
I am getting 24mpg in town, 27 to 30 freeway actual. My overhead consul tells me I am getting 4 MPG more than that, no-ones seems to be accurate.