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Who is Happy with their Jeep Liberty CRD?

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  • gabednargabednar Posts: 3
    Not sure how to proceed. I have a 2005 Liberty CRD with 48000 actual miles. Car runs great, doesnt smoke, tranny shifts beautifully, engine rpm is never high. Car even has 2 years of powertrain warranty left. Problem is, city mpg is a consistently nasty 15, and I dont know what to start looking at as far as a possible cause. I need help.
  • I would carefully examine my driving style. Even if it seems traffic is racing away from you at stop lights, avoid the temptation to goose it because it doesn't take much to activate the turbo which means it dumps in extra fuel. That little 2.8 Liter four cylinder is then slurping fuel like a 4.2 liter six cylinder. Also, watch traffic lights that have a long delay on red. Try to take a different route if you don't have to drive too far out of the way. Watch the cetane rating of the fuel you are buying. Get the highest rating you can find. You might get a bit of help by adding a cetane booster, but there again they do cost money. But, you might increase the mileage enough to eliminate a few fuel stops each month. I tend to let traffic run ahead of me in two of the towns I often travel to because the lights are often red if I hurry from one to the other. Cars on the multi lane often pass me, and switch into my lane only to have me pull up behind them just as the light turns green. They hurried for nothing. Fuel wasted to beat me to the light!!
    If you can stand it, pump the tires to the highest number allowed on the sidewall of the tire. The ride will stiffen and the railroad tracks may become a terror but mileage WILL improve. If you need the air conditioning on, use the recirculation setting and operate the fan at the lowest speed you can be comfortable with.
    The jack rabbit start and the tires are probably the two biggest ones in the suggestions.
    I hope that gives you some help. I live in the country and usually only go to small towns about 15 miles away, so who knows, if I lived in big city maybe I would only get 15 mpg.
    Best of luck, I'm glad you have a good runner.
    Mine now has 90,000 miles and it only went to the dealer for the recalls. NO problems here.
    I know, ....... I am a very lucky guy.
  • A couple of things for novices:

    * The highest cetane you can buy is 50 in the USA and you will find it called Premium Diesel. But, really the lowest is 40 - so you're safe pretty much anywhere in between;

    * Use of additives isn't really necessary, as most bulk sellers will have added a winter blend - usually Power Service to their tanks starting in October up North.

    * If you want to use an additive, the best is Stanadyne - which does not contain alcohol or methanol - IOW it won't freeze in the tool box. Other choices like Lucas, Howes and Power Service are ok to use. Use Power Service "Red" for emergency only.

    * Going to a narrower tire will improve mileage without jolting you around by maxing out the pressure. Just remember to have your mechanic adjust the tranny, if not the same rolling dimension.

    * Always carry a spare oil and fuel/water separator in your tool box. One load of water will remind you to bring them. Make sure you dump your water separator every 5-8k miles - in a safe place and not near groundwater.

    * Brand loyalty aside - diesel fuel is diesel fuel, there's no difference between brands, only the amount of water that's in the tanks. It all comes out of the same pipeline, exc for Cenex. Cenex (PNW) has a soy blend which keeps our engines running much better than regular #2D.
  • I am embarrassed to admit I don't even know how to dump the water separator. I do however used Howes with every fill up to avoid problems with water and/or gelling. Evidently it works because I have changed the fuel filter every 10,000 miles and not had any problems since I stated using Howes. It must break up water molecules and move it through in tiny pieces with the fuel.

    The first time I had a problem a guy suggested adding Howes and about ten miles down the road the power came back. I have added it every fill since then.
    Thanks for the tip about Cenex. My Libby loves the 20% soy blend I buy at a station in Monroe, WI. It runs noticeably quieter on that.

    Other people have mentioned Stanadyne, I believe I will hunt some down. I never noticed it at the store where I buy my Howes.

    Thanks for the info.
  • cowpie1cowpie1 Posts: 4
    edited July 2010
    I have a 2006 Liberty CRD that I bought new. around 70K miles on it now. Not a problem. Even original brakes are good still. Only thing I have ever done to it was lift it with a Frankelift II kit and replaced the upper A arms with Al's Arms and put in upper and lower greasable Moog ball joints. Opened up the exhaust as well. Been using Amsoil in everything. Still average around 31 mpg on long trips and roughly 25-26 mpg in combination driving. Did plug off the hose from CCV to turbo as soon as I bought it and routed another hose down to the ground for the CCV. Keeps oil out of CAC and intake. Unplugged the MAF, since some of us have found that this also reduces EGR by the ECM. Does throw a CEL, but I have a ScanGauge attached to the OBD port and just clear out the code after starting and that shuts off the CEL.

    Only maintenance I have had to do if fluids, filters and belts.

    One of the best vehicles I ever bought. Plows right thru good sized snow drifts, has no problem digging itself thru mud in the farm fields, and will pull a full 300 gallon fuel wagon thru the field without hesitation. And it is a real pleasure to drive. Wife is willing to shoot anyone who tries to take the Liberty from her! We enjoy a big laugh when someone comes up to her when she is fueling and says something like "do you know you are putting diesel in there?" She just tells them that she heard it got better fuel mileage than gasoline.

    Not bad having a solid vehicle that will tackle a lot of stuff and still get better fuel mileage than a lot of cars. I do use Howes additive in the winter (same stuff we used when I lived in Alaska for 10 years), but year round I use PRI-D from Power Research. Marine boating places have it, but I usually buy online at better pricing. This a great product that really perfoms. I have been using it in my semi, ag tractor, and jeep for quite a while and it really does a great job.
  • gardener9gardener9 Posts: 5
    Hi There,

    I've been having an ERG problem too. The dealer I took it to quoted me something like 600 some for parts and an additional 400 for installation.

    I've been hemming and hawing for quite a while now, cause it's so expensive, and then finally decided that I'm going to fix it myself. When I called some other dealers, must be variations on what dealers quote people, I have part number 5142799AA lists for 385.00, this is the EGR also sometimes called the throttle body by some dealers, but it's a misnomer cause there is no true throttle body in a diesel.
    I am also getting the gasket that goes between this, it is super cheap and ranges between 2.90 and 4. The part number is 5142613AA

    This part is fairly easy to get to, and appears to be held on by three screws. All quite accessible.

    The only unfortunate thing is the EGR part is on back order and they keep pushing it further and further back. Now they say that this part will be ready August 31! Wow that's a long wait.
  • gardener9gardener9 Posts: 5
    Oh and the other thing I keep on wondering about too, cause I've also been back and forth about selling mine because of this whole EGR thing and how expensive it is etc... is that through my research, it seems that Diesels need to be driven long distances to clear them out, and have them function well. I used to drive long distances five days a week commuting, then I relocated closer and it only now goes on short trips. So I am wondering if this is something that will always plague my CRD or if I were to do one of those bypass oil filtration systems from Amsoil that reduces soot down to two microns, if that would be the magic bullet that I need to be able to keep my CRD happy even on short trips around town. Cowpie1 do you have a good understanding of this, that you might be able to comment? It would be great to have some feedback!

    thanks :)
  • gardener9gardener9 Posts: 5
    I am late in responding, but I wanted to take the time to say Thanks, even if I am a bit late. I super appreciate your response. :)
  • cowpie1cowpie1 Posts: 4
    edited July 2010
    Get onto Ebay. They have had EGR's listed for quite a while. This one is for a new OEM EGR for $179. They also show having the EGR cooler, but few if any will need to replace that.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/05-06-JEEP-LIBERTY-EGR-VALVE-CRD-2-8L-DIESEL-MOPA- - R-OEM-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ad6d201d8QQitemZ390151143896QQptZMotorsQ5fCar- - Q5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

    The flow control valve (FCV) is in the intake where some would think a throttle body would be. It is not a throttle body, but it does work in conjuction with the EGR and it is there also to keep the engine from "shuttering" when shut down. It was notorious for breaking since it used plastic gears. It has been improved. Could not locate one of those on Ebay.
  • cowpie1cowpie1 Posts: 4
    Diesels do like to be run for longer periods of time than short trips. They come into their own after getting thoroughly warmed up. The Amsoil bypass is a good unit, but not really that necessary. I do like using their oil in the CRD.

    The key to keeping that EGR from being a continual problem is two fold: You have to keep the CCV from puking oil into the turbo, which then flows into the charge air cooler and then on to the intake. This oil laden air then gets mixed with what the EGR sends to the intake and you have a gummed up mess that builds up in the intake and will coat the boost sensor. The only way to handle this is either to install a Provent system or just disconnect the hose from the CCV and plug it off then get some more hose and attach to the CCV and route to the ground. This is affectionately known as the Elephant Hose Modification (EHM). It is cheap and easy to do, but it will drip oil from the end of the hose.

    The next easy modification is what is called the Off Road Modification (ORM). It involves just unplugging the Mass Airflow Sensor near the air box. It has been determined by others, that this simple unplug will cause the ECM to restrict the amount of EGR that is used. Won't stop it completely, but will reduce it. It also throws a CEL, but some of us have the ScanGauge II plugged into the OBD port and just clear out the code after starting up.

    You have got to get a handle on the oily air coming from the CCV. It is a hocky puck looking device on the valve cover. That is critiical.

    If you are serious about really taking care of the EGR issues, as well as performance issues, then I would recommend the ECM tune by Green Diesel Engineering.

    http://www.greendieselengineering.com/goPage.do?method=home

    This is a total ECM reprogram and not some add on chip or plug in box. It is well tested and reliable. The cost is not cheap, but will solve a number of issues with the stock program. And, it dramatically reduces EGR function.

    Basically, use a good quality synthetic oil in the CRD, stop the oily air from getting in the intake, and reduce EGR function. This will do the most for reducing issues with this great little engine. Driving style is also very important. Soot will really build if you are doing the jackrabbit starts and driving it like a sports car. Diesels perform best when given steady accelerator and not stabbing it. It takes time for the turbo to spool up and get the boost where it needs to be. If you floor it, it will tend to overfuel and generate high soot. You don't have to drive like grandma, but accerate the pedal gradually and not just stomp it.
  • Liberty CRD is definitely an eye catcher,
    - at truck stops you frequent
    - mileage averages whether city or highway it all adds up a hefty 30+
    - and if you like the fast lane you suffer the low mileage
    - but if you drive conservatively you reap the benefits of best mileage
    - don't be a left lane hugger if you can't keep up with the speeders they all pay
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    Your post is interesting. I own a 2005 CRD and have not done any of the modifications you indicate would be beneficial. I have had the EGR replaced once and the CCV twice.

    I have no oil in the hoses to and from the CAC save for a slight film. I clean the boost pressure sensor on the intake manifold every 5000 miles (when I do an oil change). The little filter that goes on the boost controller gets changed yearly.

    As to EGR care, Caribou1 as well as the dealer have the same suggestion and that is to stomp on the gas from a dead start several times per week to blast all of the carbon out of the EGR and combustion chamber. I have been doing this religiously for several years with good results.

    As to a good synthetic oil, I agree. Avoid Mobil 1 as they have not kept up with technology. Amsoil is okay as is RedLine. I am using LubroMoly 5W-40 Synthoil. It like RedLine has a a low vaporization rate and very little oill consumption.
  • Hi,

    I am thinking about buying a Liberty CRD to eventually run biofuel. Could you tell me who you buy your fuel from and what it costs to deliver?

    Thanks!
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    HI, I see you have the ARB front bumper.
    I just purchased a 2006 jeep crd limited that I will be towing wiht my motorhome. and I am considering getting an ARB bumper to weld tow bar fittings onto rather than going with the standard tow plated that cost around $400 anyway.
    I figure the bumper will protect the jeep against preditors!
    How satisfied are you with your ARB and can I get a pic ?
    One guy told me that they sticg out too far, so I wonder how they look from the side.
    Thanks: Bob
    Unclebob9@Gmail.com
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Please don't post your email address in the Forums. Thanks!

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Bought a 2005 CRD Inferno Red, sport 4 x 4, in May with 48000 actual miles. I am now averaging 19 - 20 mpg in city only driving, with the a/c running almost all the time. I'd have to say that I am quite satisfied with it, but the suv makes me a little "uncomfortable", as it is the only diesel I have ever owned. Normal to feel this way? Also, how often are other owners actually giving their 4 wheel drive system a workout, and for how long?
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    Get into the forums and start reading. These are fantastic vehicles noce set up right. They are not set up right in stock condition. Your Miliage should be much better. Many are getting 30mpg freeway and 24MPG City.
    i jsut bought a 2006, still waiting for it to be shipped to me from Tx. to Ca. I have been doing my homework and have a list of things I will need to do to it when it gets here.
    I have had a Dodge diesel pick up since 1991 and it has been bullet proof. I have done a few things to it over the years to increase it's MPG and power and I intend to keep it forever. Diesels are intimidating because they are not normal to us. But once you get into them they are not much different than gas engines and a simplier stronger design.
    Read this, it is one of themost important minor maintenance things you must do.
    http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=50930&p=566347&hilit=J- eep+liberty+crd%2C+air+intake#p566347
    There are many other articles in this forum that will get you on the right track.
    Bob
  • The following site should give you all the info you need.

    My only problem with biodiesel would be in wintertime. When temps drop to 40F or colder be certain to add a fuel conditioner that prevents gelling and will remove water. Make sure it can do both, add according to the instructions and you will have no problem using biodiesel fuel up to 20%.. If you find a higher percentage I recommend doubling the amount of fuel treatment. Brands I have heard recommended are, Stanadyne, and Howes. There probably are others that work well too.

    http://www.biodiesel.org/buyingbiodiesel/retailfuelingsites/
  • Got powertrain warranty til may 20011, should I wait till warranty expires before talking care of the emission upgrades ?
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    That's a catch 22. If you wait you will continue to gum up your motor and may cause engine damage. The only way you win is if you screw up your engine before the warrenty is up.
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