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Who is Happy with their Jeep Liberty CRD?



  • i_ami_am Posts: 4
    What keeps me from giving this vehicle any form of a recommendation is the absolute despicable build quality and Chrysler's refusal to stand behind their product.

    7K miles - replace fuel filter because of leaks. Waranty
    8.5K miles - rebuilt shifter to work properly. Assembled at factory wrong. Replace EGR valve. Wanranty
    10.5K miles - replace EGR valve, replace fuel filter again because of leaks. Waranty
    12.7K miles - Replace rear passenger widow regulator. Waranty
    28K miles - EGR same story. Waranty
    33K miles - F37 recall. Tremendous loos of engine power. No help at all from dealer.
    56K miles - rear end develops loud whining sound. Dealer refused to deal with it. Call Chrysler area rep. "That's the way it's supposed to sound". WTF?
    62K miles - Rebulit rear end. No replacement parts required. Just rebuilt to the way it should have been when it left the factory. No waranty.
    75K miles - blew turbo boost hose. no waranty
    78K miles - Rebuilt transmission. I've never had to rebuild a trany before at this mileage.
    102K miles - replace rear driver side window regulator.

    105K still own it but I'm really don't know why. As long as I don't have any more problems, the small truck/turbo diesel is the best concept I've seen. To bad Toyota doesn't take it up.

    Bottom line. I love the concept but the Jeep/Chrysler combo has done a very good job of selling Toyota's. No more American made vehicles for me and I will advertise Chrysler's lousy quality to any one who will listen.

    Chrysler deserves to go out of business, needs to go out of business and, with Fiat's reputation, will go out of business. It's just a matter of time.
  • I agree, this is NOT a good situation and would sour me as well.
    I'm having trouble understanding why so many problems with one vehicle. I feel a bit guilty as I have only had the EGR and torque convertor problems both covered by warranty and a rental car furnished.

    If the vehicle was still under warranty when you complained about the noise in the rear axle it should have been covered if you kept the paperwork. But again, that might depend on the willingness of the dealer to stick up for customers. My dealer bends over backwards to help his customers.

    I am concerned with the trans rebuild. That is a very rugged unit and should not have gone out so soon. Mine is shifting a bit sluggish now between 2 - 3 but it is due for a full scale maintenance so I chalk it up to that. I have pulled trailer loads of firewood out of the woods and a heavy camper for long distances with no trouble from the trans.

    I have had NO problems with my 2005 other then the recalls and the EGR. I must have been given the really good EGR at about 12k because it is still working perfectly at 106k and I have not done anything to it.

    In sure hope this is the end of your troubles. From the sound of it you should have burned up all the bad luck by now.
  • thanks i am, I had that rear sound start within the first 1000 miles after I purchased it off the lot at 40 miles on the odometer. I took it to three different dealers. One was waiting for corporate to figure it out. 2nd replaced brake pads with ceramic and I forget what the third did because it improved but was not solved. At 27k, alternator went and up into the warranty 70k
    I had countless repairs under warranty like you but different issues. None of the EGR valve issue. Issue at 62k under warranty had propeller shaft with universal joints replaced transfer case to front axle and at 65 k the same dealer did the same work again under warranty. This is when that sound FINALLY stopped completely. So I figure that was the problem area causing the sound. At 70k I had my last problem and hoped since so many things had been replaced that maybe I could count on another 70k of a reliable vehicle. So far so good. I take it in manana for the oil change and fuel filter separator unit replacement. And I will get a second opinion on the status of the brakes,shocks and struts needing replacement. You'd think I drove this thing over boulders and through rivers. It has macho torque and good towing muscle which I do not tow but 1k lbs. 12-16 times per yr 150 miles. But the rest of this is totally sissy city 4x rather than a real outback vehicle. Fortunately I found a real diesel mechanic 150 miles away and I am looking forward to his input because the dealers are impotent when it comes to servicing the crd, they literally know next to nothing and so I think that adds to the problems. Agreed this rogue automaker should be cast-sized and license pulled. Oh yeah buy American and bend over. Treasonous pigs. When screwing your fellow Americans to unjustly enrich yourself at our expense goes out of in-vogue, maybe we will have then true fellowship and a reformed economy based on quality goods and real morals. cheers
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    Hi, not sure if I ever replied to you, was just reading through the various messages.
    1. Provent system. Simple install, saves your erg valve and turbo from excess oil and gunk.
    2. In tank fuel pump (from a 2002-2006 dodfe diesel ick-up). The CRD pulls the fuel from the tank, any minor air leaks and your dead in the water. this set up puts a light pressure on the system and saves wear and tear on your main pump plus overcomes the weaknesses in the stock fuel filter set-up. If you have a minor leak you will not breeak down.
    3. I replaced my stock air filter with a drop in AFE dry high flow air filter. It is much more efficient than stock and a little less efficient than a K&N, but no oiling and all you have to do is vacuum it occassionally. I personally do not like the mess of a K&N and they void warrenties because over oiling can hurt your engine.
    4. Transgo shift kit, a pretty easy install and like $40. gives you firmer shifts.
    5. GRD eco tune, they fine tune your computer to get the most out of your CRD, can increase your MPG by 2 to 4. gives you more power.
    6. Sedimentator, this was just a neat little thing I came across it is a pre -fuel filter. Has no element just a drain pitcock. The fuel swirls through it seperating the larger particles and water before going to the main pump.
    I would only do this with the along with the in-tank pump because without it you wold be putting more stress on the original pump.
    7. I put on an ARB front bumper, mainly because I only carry liability insurance and I like a true ramming bumper over the plastic. It also makes the Liberty look a bit more masculine.
    8. I run Amsoil synthetic oil in everything.
    I am getting around 24+MPG around town and 30+MPG on long trips.

    Hope this helps: Bob
  • My 2005 Jeep Liberty with 100K idled fine but if I tried to drive it, it stopped. I had it diagnosed and the diesel mechanic put a Cummings fuel pump in the tank. Runs great now. Why? Think about it... If the fuel is operating with a negative pressure, any leaks let air into the line. With a pump pushing and making a positive line pressure, leaks allow fuel out of the line but no air to the engine.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    This is a common upgrade, from what I have read, the CRD was designed to have the in-tank pump. The earlier European models have it and it has the wiring in place for it. Jeep cut it out to same a few more $$ in production costs.
    You are fortunate to have found a mechanic that is aware of this.
    After doing much research within 30 days of buying my 2006 CRD I put in the in-tank pump, Provent system, Transgo shift kit, high flow ait filter and had the computer re-programmed by Green Diesel.
    this was all preventative measurements do to reading articles written by backyard CRD mechanics.
  • I couldnt be happier with the car as a whole. Have had no trouble with the engine. I have a 2005 Liberty CRD Limited with 45k miles. I hope to have it a long time. The only problem I have ever had with the car in any capacity is only with possibly a design flaw or crummy parts regarding the windows. The windows work very well going up and down but then it turns 5 o'clock somewhere and the window slips down into the door. I have had every window replaced at least once and one window (passenger front) replaced now 5 times. A bit more than annoying. It isnt the heat or cold as they have broken even with the best of weather. Supposedly they installed the newer windows with a heavier duty part but I think that is just a smoke screen. Since I have had so many and it is clearly a Jeep problem, I have not had to pay for the repair...yet.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    After reading your litany of issues with your CRD, I was pretty lucky with my CRD until it hit 77,594 miles, when without warning the engine simply blew up. I am still battling with Chrysler and the crap dealer in Melbourne, Florida.

    Now the real interesting thing or two that I have learned is that whenever a dealer has one of these engines, other dealers are clamoring to buy it from them. Why? In one case of an oil consumption issue, the liners in two of the cylinders were out of round, yet the engine had never over heated and had been properly care for.

    Chrysler, under FIAT's guidance intends to use engines from this same company, V.M. Motori, in their cars and in some domestic offerings. I would be real leery about buying one of these.
  • I really love my CRD. I've only had it for 2 years but it now has 237,000 km on it. I did have that hose crack that folks talk about, loss of power etc. And I also recently had to replace the turbo. That was an expensive fix but I got the turbo in the US and my husband installed so were were only out $1100. Other than that I have had no problems. I pull my horse trailer with it and my camping trailer. It has to work with the camping trailer and I really take it easy when pulling that. Probably should get a bigger transmission cooler.

    p.s. does anyone know how to check the codes on the 06? I've tried the on of ignition thing and it doesn't seem to work. Engine light has been on since hubby changed the turbo and changing gears at the wrong time at lower speeds. I figure he has knocked off a wire or something.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    In the US, many auto parts stores will check your codes for free, just ask them.
    Other wise you can buy your own tester for under $100.
    It can read your codes and reste the check engine light.
    Another trick that May work is to disconnect your battery for at least 10 minutes (I do it for overnight) and it should reset the computer to the Factory settings.
  • Love it so much I'm picking up a second one tonight. One of the best mechanics in the country works in my city. The window problem that you hear about is NOT about heat. It is Jeep's lousy parts. There is a current glow plug issue going from ceramic to metallic plugs. It also requires a new control sensor for them. Ugh! I just live with the check engine light and use a OBDII code reader to make sure nothing else is not working. Once I found my mechanic the thing runs like a champ. 10 months and still going. Husband trading in Volvo for his own Jeep Liberty.
  • jlibjlib Posts: 2
    I bought my CRD second hand and had it now for about a year its at 117K Other than the EGR and a broken alternator shaft I love it!!!!!!!! Or shall I say Loved it!!!! My trouble is while going down the road the 4 lo engages and as you can imagine I am dead in the water this has happened intermitantly sometime when first accelerating and others while going over 35 mph Please give me some guidance I am hesitant to take it to my mechanic he told me not to buy it because he is not fond of jeeps My husband does most of our work ANY INFO WOULD HELP
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    must be a computer glitch, disconnect the battery overnight, this should reset the computer. may not work, but well worth a try.
  • I think unclebob has a good point here. Unless I am totally confused, the 4 LO is activated only by the big lever and you have to pull a bit hard on it. If you think you are in 4 LO because the light is on but you didn't pull the lever then it most likely is an electronic glitch.

    I have a call in to my favorite mechanic at the Jeep dealer. This guy is sharp, he was sent to school for the CRD as soon as the dealership learned it was coming out. This dealer works hard at keeping the five star rating. My mechanic has changed one EGR in 117k miles so you know he put in the right one first time. His work under warranty has been flawless. He will know what to make of this.

    I suspect something is mis-communicating between the engine computer and the body computer. It might be shifting the transmission to a low gear and turning on the 4LO light. I am just guessing because I can't be there when it happens. You said NO GO so that could mean a couple of things.

    Like uncle bob suggested let the Libby sit with the battery off overnight and hopefully the problem will go away. Please let us know either way.

    Good luck with that problem, glad you like your CRD, I sure like mine and all of my friends who have driven like its agility compared to their bigger units or its quickness compared to their small cars.
  • jlibjlib Posts: 2
    Thanks I will try disconnecting the battery It did it about 10 times today It does actually shift all on it's own no lever pulling this would be great if I was climbing a mountain when the light comes on the RPMS shoot up and pushing the gas pedal feels like sludge Could this be doing damage??????? I was thinking of driving it in 4All time for awhile but will kill the mpg Wish I had a mechanic like yours Mine told me not to buy mine when I had it inspected he couldn't find anything wrong just didn't like Jeeps and suggested a Honda CRV Needless to say I didn't pay for his opinions I love my Jeep I will let you know if the battery disconnect has a positive outcome Thanks again unclebob and biodieselman
  • I forgot to ask you if the dash light is coming on to indicate it is in 4lo or if you assume it is in low because of the high RPM.

    This might be just a transmission bug. I was made to believe it could not (should not) go into 4 lo unless the 4 lo lever was pulled up. If that is correct then I suspect it is the transmission shifting to a lower gear.

    Hopefully leaving the battery off with cure this problem before the engine or transmission is seriously harmed.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    Have you checked your transmission fluid level?
    and are you using a good synthetic fluid?
    I recoment putting in a Transgo shift kit, next time you change the trans fluid, it is not very hard to do and costs under $50 if you shop around.
    Another thing you might check is your motor mounts.
    put on your parking brake, have someone stand next to the open engine compartment (never in front of the car) and give it come gas. (not much) in both forward and reverse. The engine should remain stable. If it tries to lift up out of the car, you have a broken mount.
    the reason I am thinking this is enough movement might cause it to shift into 4-low. I kinda doubt it, but it' a free check!
    Best of luck: bob
  • spetespete Posts: 73
    I just read this post and had to chime in my thoughts. I purchased one of the first CRD's on the lot in 2005. I now have 98M on it and other than the EGR problems that I think every owner had when they first came out, I have had zero problems. I pull 3 different trailers with it on a regular basis and can say that this engine/vehicle combination has the previous truck I owned beat to pieces! I sincerely believe that having grown up with diesel engines on a farm have helped me know how to maintain and drive a diesel vehicle. Diesel's are a different beast from a gas engine and learning to "let the engine do the work" instead of constantly thrashing the throttle to floor when you need power, is something that many owners never learn. A short "warm up and cool down" period is also something that I do religiously. There isn't another vehicle on the market right now that I would trade for ...and possibly won't be until some maker comes out with another "smaller diesel".
  • I'm glad to hear you are happy with your CRD. Mine has been very reliable since purchased new. I am fortunate to have a five star dealer close by who sent his mechanic to school as soon as he learned the CRD was hitting the market. The guy knows his stuff. My first warranty issue was the EGR. Thankfully, I got a stainless one right away. It is still in service now at 116 K miles. There was a ball joint and torque converter recall which was only a minor inconvenience. the dealer had a rental car waiting for me. I suspect he added that cost into the warranty claim.

    Other then that there have been no problems I can attribute to the Jeep itself. I had a fuel problem one time. Left the house in cold weather, got five miles away power. It could run at about 35 mph. I suspect the filter was due for a change so it was partially clogged, but worse yet I think there was water in the fuel. I limped to a truck stop about 15 miles away and added a double helping of Howes diesel treatment. Tired of pulling off the road every time a car came from behind, I went inside with the engine idling, doors locked, and had a bowl of soup. I always keep a spare key in my pants pocket. By the time I came out the Howes had done its thing. I got in and the power was back. So now I add it at least every other tank even in summer and ALL fill ups in the winter.

    I have good luck using 20% biodiesel IF I add the Howes every time. I like knowing the pump and injectors are getting proper lubrication that the missing sulfur USED to take care of. It runs great on it, I don't notice any great difference in mpg so I use it every chance I get. It can't be bad news if I have driven 116,000 miles using it.

    I hope they can get this little dynamo cleared to pass emissions for more Jeep vehicles in the future. I have talked to a lot of Wrangler owners who would dearly love to have that engine in a Wrangler. That would be an awesome stump jumping, rock crawler with almost 300 pounds of torque at just 2000 rpm!
  • 106,000 and it's still going strong! It just got the transmission fluid changed a couple of months ago and I installed the Fumoto oil drain valve P/N F102N : PF-3/8
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