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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Stalling Problem

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  • mo29mo29 Posts: 1
    I have a 93 chevy silverado and the other day was idling fine then the truck just died. I had a little trouble turning it back on. Drove fine the rest of the day. Next day drove it to work and on the corner turned off again. No warning lights come on but if you leave it off for a couple of hours truck turns on again but turns off when you drive it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • i have a 94 silverado. it starts right up, runs great, but when i stop at a red light or stop sign, id stalls, sometimes it does this 10 times a day, others not once. i changed the fuel filter already and sprayed throttle body cleaner but didnt get to run it enough to see if the cleaner made a difference, any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks
  • jumlahjumlah Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 2500 sierra that I bought used.. Automatic. 256,000K I had the rad changed and the original manifold gasket changed at the same time a few months ago. After the work was done, I noticed a hesitation in the "power band" almost like the engine was misfiring. It was very subtle and easy to miss. there is no hesitation while moving up through the gears until I hit about 90 km/hr (3rd gear), this usually corresponds to about 2000 to 2500 rpm. after that when I reach about 100 to 110 km/hr, and the RPM drops to about 2000 RPM to 2200 RPM (Overdrive) and there is another hesitation. It happens no other time. there are no Codes or check engine light. I also notice after the work was done the engine runs at a lower RPM while idling, and sometimes when I am in reverse and begin to give the engine a shot of gas it almost stall out. It did at least once.

    I thought at first the mechanic may have messed up the timing so I brought it back. they double checked and everything was OK. They even checked injection ports and cleaned them. The problem continued, I took it to a transmission shop to see if it was a tranny problem, again no codes, the mechanic took it for a drive and was convinced that there was NOT a problem with the transmission or it's mechanical operation. The transmission was rebuilt about 76,000KM ago, and has only been on light duty. The transmission mechanic thought that it might be related to the ignition. Well, I don't know when the plugs were changed last and the truck has remote start that is no longer able to start the truck. The characteristic of the "hesitation" has not changed and continues to happen at the exact place and time while driving it.

    I am at a loss as to what is happening. I would rather not spend ton of money trying to find the problem. Since there are no codes it is kinda hard to pinpoint. I appreciate any assistance I can get on this matter.

    regards,
    John
  • A lot of miles on this truck. Here is what to look for. I understand mechanics have checked this, but maybe they over looked the obvious.

    Low idle than normal may be the key to this. Check fuel pressure, and throttle body for carbon build up. IAC (idle air control) valve may be malfunctioning and not setting a code(pintal may be stuck in wrong position) I have run into this after manifold has been removed. Pintal position will not set codes for IAC, only electrical malfunctions of the IAC will. Pintal spring may be coked with sludge, impeeding correct relearn proceedure. Recommend cylinder balance test. Verify each cylinder is contributing on its power stroke. If this vehicle was brought to me, this is where I would start.

    Keep in mind that my first rule to repair is to fix the obvious first, it might be related. I would focus on the low idle issue first. Even though timing has been checked, check it again by someone else. Timing cannot be accurately checked or set if your idle is below specs. Timing and idle are related. Your emission sticker under the hood will show the specs for timing at what idle rpm. Low idle retards timing, while a higher than normal idle advances timing.
  • lrichy3lrichy3 Posts: 1
    I have 03 sierra that i bought new, for the last year and a half it stalls when i come to a stop or turning. It runs fine when it is cold. After it warms up the rpm's drop down to about 550 and it has a miss. It's driving me crazy!! I put new plugs and wires on it,checked the fuel pressure. It's fine.Put new K&N air filter on,the throttlebody is clean. It does not have an IAC valve they only had them up to 02,it has one big electrical unit in the side of the throttlebody and nothing else!! ANY HELP WITH THIS I WOULD REALLY APPRECIATE IT!!!!
  • Hmmm, sounds like its starving for fuel only when warmed up. Check the output voltage signal from your upstream O2 sensors. They should be switching back and fourth between 600-900 mili volts within 1 second. If you don't know how to do this try a propane enritchment test. Take a propane torch(don't light it) and give your engine some extra fuel (propane) when it is warm and see if it smooths out. Just put the end of the torch into the air intake. If it runs worse, than your problem is too much fuel. Look for vacum leaks, and exhuast leaks, these will fool your O2's into sending a lean signal to the PCM wich inturn dumps extra fuel in there. Too much for the engine to burn up.
  • I was having the problems that some were having on here with the truck stalling at low rpm maneuvers. It wasn't the alt or battery, I put a new fuel filter on, still nothing, finally i got some cleaners and cleaned out the MAF sensors and the TB, by the way was loaded with carbon build up. I haven't have any luck with finding the IAC valve though, its not bolted on the TB like most, unless it is attached, meaning riveted on the TB, however since the cleaning it has ran fine, the test drive around the block was a success! If anyone knows where and how to get to the IAC valve shoot me an email, i really would like to clean that as well!
  • neelaviatneelaviat Posts: 2
    Hey, I have 2001 Chevy 2500HD Duramax w/ 200,000 plus miles.
    It's been a great truck, but... engine stalls when I use the turn signal to change lanes on the highway, or when coming out of a slow turn when the blinker arm returns. I can't duplicate this by wiggling the blinker arm. I have to put truck in N, and usually restarts first try. I can feel the truck hesitate or bump while changing lanes on the highway (70-80 MPH) if it doesn't stall completely. THANKS for any help. No codes being stored.
  • 2doorhoe2doorhoe Posts: 1
    had the same thing happen, replaced the harmonic balancer ran like new
  • neelaviatneelaviat Posts: 2
    Did you experience this while using the blinkers? Or @ idle? Thanks.
  • loomloom Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Sierra 1500HD, 2 Days ago I went to start it and the battery was dead. I jump started it, never had problems with the battery sense. Now it idles
    very low when I start it and when I come to a stop, sometimes it stalls. I was
    told that it could be the iac valve, and then I was told that the 2003 models doesn't
    have one. Any replies would Help Thanks.
  • jaysgmc03jaysgmc03 Posts: 1
    hey dont have a answer either but mine also did the same thing i boosted my atv off with my truck and ended up draining my battery in my truck and i got a new battery and now i have low idle to the point it wants to stall . so if u find a answer please let me know. i will do the same .
  • hmann54hmann54 Posts: 1
    My truck has a 4.3 with automatic. trucks runs great after about a hour it will go to stalling. I have replace ign module, coil, cap plugs ,fuel filter..put the OBD2 scanner no codes show everything is great..fuel pressure from pump is @ 60 psi.
    I was told by tech from the dealership that some sensors do not read on obd2 with out service engine light coming on. if any has run across this or can point me in the right direction I would appreciate it
  • I have the exact vehicle as you. I had the same problems as you. KEY WORD "HAD". I believe my friend, the problem has been solved. Try this simple, inexpensive solution. 1.) Change fuel filter. COST=under $10. 2.) Buy 1 can of CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner. COST=under $10. 3.) Remove the MAF housing between the air box and the throttle body. Complete the following steps when vehicle is cold. 4.) Completely douse hot-wires and hot-plate. Be sure to spray all sides of the MAF sensor. 5.) At throttle body, completely douse the entire air intake. With your finger, open the throttle body and use an old toothbrush to remove all residue build-up. 6.) Reassemble the MAF housing. After assembly is complete, wait 5 minutes to allow cleaner to dry. 7.) Start your truck. You might exerience an initial rough start. Reving the engine will cure this quickly. RPM'S should hold @800-900. Voltage should stay steady with no fluctuation. Truck should purr like a kitten. GOOD LUCK! Let me know if this works for you.
  • 2002 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4x4 Z71 5.3 Vortec
    Engine. 109000 miles. Only on cold mornings/days
    does it stall and idle really rough and missfire. Here is the strange part: if I unplug the MAF sensor, it runs
    fine. If I plug it back in, goes right back to crap. So I
    thought i had found my problem and replaced the MAF Sensor but to my surprise it did the same exact thing. It is throwing a coolant temp sensor code so maybe
    that is the culprit. My question is if it is a bad coolant temp sensor, why does it run fine when I unhook the MAF? I also tried unplugging the coolant temp sensor but it still does the same thing if the MAF is plugged up.
  • Hi, I am looking for advice on my truck. I went out and cranked it for work this morning and it was a real hard start. I let it warm up and when I went back out to leave I started having problems. Right when I put it in drive and gave it gas, it stuttered /cut out and what sounded like valves clattering could be heard. Every time I got on the gas good it just cuts out and makes that sound. I tried it again later and it didn't cut out as much only when I really got on the gas hard it did, but first thing this morning it was doing it when I barely gave it gas.

    It feels like a fuel issue, maybe the fuel/air mixture issue or I am beginining to wonder if could be my timing chain?

    Any help is appreciate.
  • ptmcnptmcn Posts: 1
    Did you ever find the cause?

    ptmcn
  • It sounds to me your truck is stalling during turns. Check out my post #47 and follow the simple directions. Let me know how this works for you.
  • rjfpiccrjfpicc Posts: 1
    my truck had the same problem.. the brake vacuum booster was leaking and messing up the vacuum for the engine.. unplugg the hose to the brake booster and plug it and step on the gas see if it helps. if the motor doesnt' cut out or sputter when you hit the gas its the booster.
  • subeventsubevent Posts: 3
    Hi folks!
    I´m new to this forum and I am writing on behalf of my father who owns a Chevy 1500 Silverado with a 6,5 litre V8 diesel engine. This is his pride and joy...but unfortunately he is having major problems with it.

    The truck is, for lack of a better word, quite moody. It will occasionally start ok and run with no problems whatsoever - no stuttering or other problems, and then suddenly stall and die. It can be really hard to get it started after this has happened. Now...I´m no mechanic but I will try to relay and translate what he has done with the truck so far:
    -Fuelfilter is replaced
    -Fuelpump attached just beside the tank is also replaced
    -Tube/pipe inside tank (suction-pipe?) is also replaced.

    Battery is quite good and not yet a year old.
    Outside temperature or humidity doesn´t seem to be an issue (damp weather and so on). Strange thing is that the truck stalls/dies without warning....no spluttering or misfiring etc.

    My father suspects an electronic fault...and before we go to see the mechanics I would like to hear any advice you can offer.

    I´m thankful for any input that could get my fathers beloved truck up and running again...:)

    Best regards
    Patrik
  • vsowersvsowers Posts: 1
    we have a 93 gmc sierra replaced fuel pump, filters, etc....drove fine for one day took it out again today about 25 miles it just died again.....did you get yours fixed? :shades:
  • subeventsubevent Posts: 3
    Nope... :sick:
    I suppose my father needs to take it to a garage somwhere...just to get it checked.
    I have read a lot of forumposts but almost everyone with stalling problems seems to have a spluttering, misfiring truck or electrical trouble. This one just dies...completely ..in one go. Not so much as a hiccup even... :confuse:

    I guess troubleshooting by professionals is the next step.
    Did you find out whats wrong with your truck then?
  • i have the same problem on a 94 gmc 4x4 5.7 ive replaced everything also at 1500 rpms it sounds like it has a bad [non-permissible content removed] cam in it anything lower or higher than that runs fine except it wants to stall at idle but if i unplug the alternator plug it still has a surge but not as bad plus i just replaced the alternator 2 days ago and ran new power and ground wires to a new battery and to the alternator, when i put my air on or radio or blinkers anything electrical it brings my battery meter down to 10 volts does anyone have a solution
  • i have the same problem on a 94 gmc 4x4 5.7 ive replaced everything also at 1500 rpms it sounds like it has a bad [non-permissible content removed] cam in it anything lower or higher than that runs fine except it wants to stall at idle but if i unplug the alternator plug it still has a surge but not as bad plus i just replaced the alternator 2 days ago and ran new power and ground wires to a new battery and to the alternator, when i put my air on or radio or blinkers anything electrical it brings my battery meter down to 10 volts does anyone have a solution?
  • jrutkisjrutkis Posts: 2
    I own a 2004 silverado Z71 4.8 liter. when i start my truck in the morning and drive it without letting it warm up i stall when comming to a stop and turning. if i run it for 3 -5 min. without turning runs fine until i turn it off again. if i stop for a snack get back in my truck and start it same problem for 3-5 min. real irrating in the city. if i sit there for a few minutes to let it warm up its fine but who has 3-5 min to let it warm up after every start. i took it to a mechanic and no codes come up on diagnostics. he reset the computer to see if it would go away and nope still there. now my problem is inspection time and it will not pass because my drive cycle not completed. ive driven it for 3000 miles and still nope. i was told the stalling is not letting my obd2 register. need help bad on this one.
  • candicebcandiceb Posts: 1
    I have a 94 chev silverado automatic with a 350 motor.Recently I changed the throttle body gasket and since then when I start it it runs really rough and misses but if I let it run a minute it will rev up really high, puff out some black smoke(tail pipe) and then run fine but recently it will stall out when I take a corner or come to a stop(red light).This may not happen for a week at a time but today it did it 5 times in a 15 min drive.Any suggestions would be appreciated
  • mgaldemgalde Posts: 2
    1993 GMC 4x4 automatic 5.0 V8 198500 miles
    While driving at speed (55 mph) truck will stall and within seconds restart on its own as if nothing happened, and continue to run as normal.
    Truck also has continues to stall after a couple minutes while at idle.
    Temp does not seem to be at issue as it does this when cold or at normal operating temp.
    Replaced battery in spring this year, ICM last fall.
    No sensor code is appearing on scanner.
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