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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Stalling Problem

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  • My 2000 chevy started this problem 2 days ago. It will idle and drive just fine, but will simply shut down. The low fuel light will come on for a split second and then the battery light comes on. It willl crank like it's not getting fuel. Let it sit for 10 minutes or so and it will fire up and run just fine. I've replaced the fuel filter.

    The service engine light will stay while having the not firing problem, but shuts off after it finally decides to start.

    Any ideas??
  • im sure you fixed the problem by now since the original question is so old, but my guess is it was a computer problem, am i right?
  • I have a 94 GMC pickup with the 5.7 litre engine. The problem I am having is that once in a while it just dies. If you try to restart it just cranks. I have to rotate the ignition switch to the off position the it will start then die. It runs a little longer each try until after about 10 to 15 mins. Then it runs fine for weeks of even months until it decides to do it again. Any Ideas would be greatly appreciated.
  • I have the same problem with the stalling at a stop and low idle. It idles at around 400rpm when warm. It runs fine when cold. When I go from 15 mph to a stop it will stall about 50% of the time. The other times it will recover after the tach drops to almost "0". I have a 2001 Sierra 1500 with the 5.3 V8. I have done all of the following and the truck has shown no change in behavior.
    1. Cleaned throttle bottle. It looks brand new.
    2. Replaced IAC. Reset and drove for 1 month now.
    3. Replaced fuel pump
    4. Replaced fuel filter

    Could it be fuel pressure regulator, vacuum hoses, bad ground?? I am almost out of money and need some help as well before I am completely broke.
  • Try your Catalytic Converters...engine light on? po420 or po430. Check fuel pressure. should be around 65 psi. so far I see you threw about 600-800 bucks in parts just take it to a mechanic. 85 bucks diognostic fee, if hes wrong get your money back.
  • Ohh ya intake maifold has been a problem in these trucks too. When they get warm the plastic intake expands causing an air leak. Try this to find out... when truck is warm and symptoms are there get a can of carb cleaner, brake cleaner , starting fluid and spray towards the intake area if engine idle increases or decreases thats your problem. oh BTY be careful. ( dont go wild spraying!)
  • i acually found out that it might be your computer gone bad or a bad connection to your computer. i had the same problem and took it to my cousins shop. he ran diagnostics and found nothing so he made a few calls and said odds are its the computer. find out if your computer reset. if not thats prob your problem
  • No engine lights at all. I had the shop run the diagnostic before I replaced the fuel pump and I was getting low pressure and they diagnosed it as a bad pump. I put in a new pump and that fixed the fuel pressure problem but not the stalling. I failed to mention that the line wasn't maintaining pressure before I replaced the pump. I would have to prime the pump about two or three times via the ignition before it would start. That problem went away with the new pump.

    I have sprayed throtle bottle cleaner in the intake with the truck running at about 2000rpms and let it do its thing and it hasn't helped.

    I reset the IAC by turning the ignition on for 30sec. Turning it off for 10 sec. Then starting it. I was told that was the way to do it.

    I'll try resetting the computer again to see if that helps. I plan to unplug the negative and let it sit for about 10 minutes.

    I haven't checked the regulator for gas yet, or done a pressure test on the vacuum system either. I might get around to that this weekend.

    Anything else you guys can think of? I'll keep trying until it's fixed!
  • Should I spray the brake cleaner around the intake manifold or by the coupler before the throttle body. Where does the leak happen in these instances? I assume I could just by some RTV sealant and reinstall the manifold with this at the seams to correct the problem?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    The IAC needs to be removed and cleaned with an electric parts cleaner or better yet replaced. If the truck dies while moving that would be associated with the Throttle Position Sensor.
  • I have a03 sliverado 5.3 it stalls and dies sometimes when I stop or slow to turn. It starts back up like nothings wrong,but happening more often. Does anyone have an answer for this problem Also the service engine light has not came on.I have a new battery and had the alternator checked and it was ok.
  • I posted a while ago and had replaced several items. Turns out nothing worked because my replacement iac was the wrong model #. Put the right one in and it no longer stalls. I also thoroughly cleaned the throttle body with throttle body cleaner. If doing those two things didn't fix your problem for this particular problem, I'd be shocked. This truck is known for its throttle body issues.
  • I have a03 sliverado 5.3 it stalls and dies sometimes when I stop or slow to turn. It starts back up like nothings wrong,but happening more often. Does anyone have an answer for this problem Also the service engine light has not came on.I have a new battery and had the alternator checked and it was ok.
  • tdyer3tdyer3 Posts: 2
    Can anyone tell me where the fuel pump is located? Is it located within the fuel tank or is it located in the box in front of the fuel tank?
  • I have a 1995 Silverado deisel, also, and have almost gone broke trying to fix it. I have replaced both fuel pumps, flushed the tank, checked the lifters,,,,,,, it;s been down since October!!!! Seems I have to find the answer myself and then tell the mechanic what to do.
    What is the IAC and what is the proper part # for it?
    I tried to get the optical/fuel temperature sensor, and was told that part was discontinued!!!!
  • My '07 GMC Sierra wouldn't go over 30 MPH! It said "reduced engine power". After I turned the engine off it was fine. What caused this? Is it gonna happen again? Is there something I need to get fixed? Now I don't trust it! Help! Thanks!
  • the idiot light flickering generally means a issue with the ignition system, check your coils, knock sensor, cam sensor and most common tps sensor, they put off a false reading, if you can unhook any of the above and engine stays on with no change in idle it is defective but may test good, replace it.
  • jackson25jackson25 Posts: 1
    my truck stalling on slow down to stop or attempted reverse or slow turn.runs great otherwise.if it does keep running after stop acceleration very ruff.please help if yu cn
  • john463john463 Posts: 2
    I have been driving without any problem, but suddenly motor stop, and don't star again, I have a new battery, ignition sounds like always. after a few minutes, let say 5 minutes car's start again without problems and continue working fine.
    I don´t know what cause this failure, can you help me.

    thanks in advance for your help,
    John
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    No start condition is related either to no spark or no fuel. Best bet to start there...
  • don174don174 Posts: 1
    I had this problem on 2003 Silverado 4.8L and got it fixed. It needed a Throttle Body Cleaning - result was RPM increase from 400 to 600.

    What didn't work - new air cleaner, replaced OEM with 130K miles; re-charge low battery (maybe it was a battery/alternator issue? It wasn't); 30-minute idle reset after all engine codes erased.

    It ran well before but stalled as it slowed to approach lights or stop signs. Now it runs great!
  • padassopadasso Posts: 3
    Mine did this on and off for about two years. It was a crank sensor. replaced it and have had no problems for 3 years. Good Luck.
  • dlesagedlesage Posts: 1
    hey had my 93 gmc 1500 for under a year bought it used great running truck never had any trouble until last weekend it stalled coming down a hill its progressively gotten worse, it doesn't always stall it will lose power at the pedal and if i lay off gas for a few seconds and give gas it will maintain power but if i slow down to under 30km/h it stall also on sharp turns and when i come to a complete it will stall. it does not happen every time it's very random but those are the most frequent times it will stall, i just put in a new air filter, alternator, starter battery, fuel filter and fuel pump. i was told it might be electrical or possibly the carb? even the distributor.
    It's a 350 5.7L with about 250k on engine and tranny also only when it dies the check gauges, and service engine lights come on, ill wait a few seconds, or even throw it into N and start it right back up again most times it will twice only i had two wait a minute or two but again it starts right up and drives until this happens again.
    Any help or ideas will be much appreciated Thanks
  • vicestatevicestate Posts: 1
    edited August 2010
    I have a 87 GMC 5.7 liter, the motor starts well when it is cold but as soon as I run it for awhile and turn off when I try and re start it the motor acts like its not getting gas. Maybe the throttle body sensor? any suggestions would be greatly apperciated. thanks Vicestate
  • rricrric Posts: 1
    new fuel pump and fuel filter sprayed the throttle body with throttle body cleaner ran fine for 20 miles than died going around a corner after several attemps trying to start it it finally started but sputtered awhile then it ran fine 5 miles home with service engine light on what could be wrong ?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    sounds like a bad throttle position sensor
  • i have a 2001 silverado 1500 4x4 4.3l manual transmission 160k miles. it starts fine and idles fine. now 10-15 mins down the road is another story. i can always tell when its about to stall because of a hard push back when the gas pedal is depressed and a hard let go and rapid drop in rpm when the gas pedal is released, if i put it in neutral the rpms drop to nothing and the engine stalls. when i stay hard push back and let go i mean how it throws me back in my seat when depressed and hard pull forward toward the steering wheel when released. once it stalls and i either start it back up or drop the clutch and basically push start it and give it gas exhaust sounds horrible a re pa pa pa sound vs my normal smooth flowmaster sound. if i dont let it die and keep the truck moving it seems to run rough almost like its misfiring for the next couple of mins. it seems that after it stalls and i start it up, wait 30 seconds or so and rev the motor to about 4.5k it smooths out and will be fine from there. i havent done anything yet to fix this new problem but everyone i ask tells me something different. i did a code scan and got a evap error read and a bank 2 cat error read. i have changed the fuel filter about 8 months ago, replaced the ignition coil about 8 months ago and all plugs and wires 5 months ago.
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