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Infiniti I30 Electrical Issues

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Comments

  • Many cars with steering wheel mounted controls have mounted in the steering column, what the mechanics refer to as a 'clockspring'. It gets dirty connections or is possibly broken. Common to be broken during front axle repairs when steering wheel is turned too far. Websites show details on how to replace it.
  • Had this problem on another car after a heavy rainfall. The MAS air sensor mounted in the air cleaner housing, had apparently gotten wet. Removed it, sprayed it clean with electronic cleaner, let it dry, and replaced it. No more trouble.
  • No fuse labled as 'dash lights' in either fuse box. All sub-miniature fuses test good continuity. Gear position indicator and center console illumination is still operable. Called Infinity dealer, as fuse box cover said. Estimated diagnose cost at $100. Possibly will have to order a module pack of some sort for $?????. Any other suggestions? Dealer is very busy and can not look at until next week. 44 K milies on otherwise nice driving car.
  • atma97atma97 Posts: 47
    It might be a dimmer control knob located behind the steering wheel. I only have I35, QX4 and Altima but all of them have this switch. Sometimes my wife accidently turned it off and the dash board light really went out.
  • jeh255jeh255 Posts: 4
    Had this problem for the last few years. At 50m all electric went.Expensive alternator, battery, towing, etc. Then around 55m sometimes just the check engine light, sometimes the check engine, skid, abs, etc. Each time I was lucky and after restarting the engine, sometimes a few times, eventually the rough idle would stop and the engine would seem normal. Lights would stay on. The dealer told me it was the ignition sensors. Infiniti and Nissan know about this issue, but the dealer told me that it would be apx. $1800 to fix this as there is one in each cylinder and they suggested doing all 6 of them. After putting this repair off I decided to take it to a local mechanic that I've come to trust. He ran diagnostics, ID'd the specific sensor having the problem and replaced it for apx $200. I have put on 3000 miles since repair and car runs better than it has in years. '00 I30 65,000 mi.
  • Hey there, When you say that you replaced the computer, do you mean the ECM? I think my ECM circuit board has damage from a faulty Idle air control valve, and I was wondering how you handled changing out the computer. Is is super expensive? Did you get a re-manufactured ECM or did you order the part from infiniti? My vehicle is a 1996 I-30 and she keeps stalling on me intermittenly. Changing out the IACV gave me three weeks of bliss when she drove perfectly without stalling and very smooth. This past weekend, she is acting up again, running rough and stalling. I am bummed and not sure what to do...please help:)
  • Who did you take it to? Was it in San Antonio, TX?
  • Where did you take it to and what was the issue. I had this happen to my car, today.
  • aspg57aspg57 Posts: 1
    My 2002 has almost 122,000 miles on it. The radio now works intermittantly. If I touch the power button or change the volume on the dial it will stop playing for hours or days. It still works from the steering wheel though. The display turns on and off intermittantly as well. I tried to get an aftermarket radio but I was told there was no fit kit for this car. Dealer want $3000 to replace. Any suggestions?
  • blogengeezerblogengeezer Posts: 6
    edited March 2010
    Re: 2000 I-30 instrument panel lights out. Crown Coachworks in Albuquerque NM fixed it. 505-344-1040 ask for 'RED'
  • em4keepsem4keeps Posts: 1
    Did you ever get this fixed?
  • zaq1zaq1 Posts: 1
    I've had similar problems (intermittent stereo power; occasional dead battery: parasitic draw) until the stereo gave up entirely. The new battery continued to suffer parasitic drain & if left parked for a few days was dead. The parasitic drain seems to be from the stereo which had a bad circuit board that eventually toasted itself (no fuse ever blew). I've replaced the stereo with one from an auto wrecker - twice so far - 1st one only the cassette worked; 2nd one works, but has no lights on the display panel.

    The parasitic draw has been a problem for years - 3 new batteries have been replaced in 7 years (on the 4th now). Stereo problems seem to be common in Nissans. See also the Infinity I35 Electrical Issues Forum for a discussion on these problems.

    Let me know if you learn more about these symptoms and solutions.
    Cheers
  • bought this i30 and everythigs been going well< till 2 weeks ago, i auto rolled up the window n the window rolled 5 inches down! everytime! the only way to close the window is if i hold it up then lock the windows! then i can unlock window and it will be fine! is there a way to reset the window like a sunroof?

    also the check engine light came on! knock sensor bank 1 and cat bank 1! after clearing code it came back on with cat bank 1 and bank 2! cleared that code and light came back on with cat bank 1 and knock sensor bank 1!
    the car has 62k miles! do i start with the knock sensor or just buy everything?

    i cant use high octaine or injector cleaner to clean cat can I?

    thanks :confuse: :lemon:
    Blackgnturbo@aol.com
  • jwalesjwales Posts: 1
    2001 I30 with 150K miles. at first, after the cruise was engaged and then you had to brake, when you pressed the resume button the "set" light would blink intermittently but the vehicle would not resume speed. Once you turned the vehicle off and restarted it, the cruise worked fine for a time, then the above situation would occur again. Now the cruise will not engage period and the dash panel cruise lights don't light up at all. Has anyone experienced this? If so, what is the fix? thanks....
  • I resolved this exact problem with a used radio from an autowreckers. The parasitic draw was so low it was undectable at the battery or the fusebox, but would drain the battery in about 7 - 10 days if left parked and kill a battery in less than 2 yrs. The replacement radio would not light up after 2 different tries, but who cares - it's all good/bad depending on your mood anyway
  • jude63jude63 Posts: 1
    My passenger side low beam h/light is out and I am told its not the bulb. I want to buy a complete replacement ballast and igniter control but don't know if I should get the one plug or two plug? How do I tell which of the two types I need? This is the type of assembly that is currently in my car. Thanks much for your help.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-00-04-Infiniti-i35-i30-Xenon-D2R-Headlight-ballast-H- ID-Igniter-Control-Unit-/200609640193#vi-content
  • tonyirltonyirl Posts: 1
    edited January 2012
    I was installing a new bulb into my front dome light. Somehow after I installed the light my door locks, key less remote and interior lights are all not working. I've tested every fuse in the car including the one fuse box under the steering column, the one under the hood next to the battery and also checked all the relays. Every fuse has charge and cant figure out what else it could be?!! PLEASE HELP ME!
  • Mine is doing the same thing at the moment took it to Advance auto for diagnostic possilbe cause was Vehicle speed sensor open or short circuit condition poor electrical connection or faulty vehicle speed sensor
  • Mine came on after I got gas but I found out later it was because I had put low grade gas in it which caused a knock sensor code put in some Octane boost and it went away if that doesn't work you could try and unhook battery for about 24 hours and reconnect that may get rid of it
  • Does anyone know where the speed sensor is located on a 1997 Infinity I30?
  • I just replaced the starter motor about two weeks ago, second time, easy fix. Currently the car will turn over and start, then immediately sputters and dies. There appears to be a strange electrical issue that is also occurring, maybe the cause of the engine not continuing to run. I noticed that electric accessories, like power door locks, appear to have reduced power to them. When I actuate the locks, they will visibly move a little, but will not fully unlock or lock. All systems seem to have this limited amount of power to them, accept for the starter which turns over with no problem. When I swapped out the starter I also replaced the ground to the battery, but all connections look good.

    Anyone else experience anything like this.
  • hlbj37hlbj37 Posts: 1
    edited November 2012
    i am having the same problem after changing the map light bulb, now no interior lights, doors, if anyone has the answers
    please let me know
  • Same issue here....put in new bulb for map light, now car won't lock, overhead light won't work. This sounds like a fuse to me. I might try calling the dealer.
  • As the weather's getting warmer, I've been running into a strange issue with my car. The car will not start when it's been sitting out in the sun/noshade on 80 degree+ days.

    When I attempt to start, there is:
    - no "click"
    - no noise whatsoever from the starter
    - no changes in dials on the dashboard
    - dashboard check battery light turns on
    - A/C, stereo, headlights, etc. turn on

    This has happened several times - always on hot days when the car has been sitting out in the sun. It will consistently fail to start if I attempt to start repeatedly. I've had success getting the car to by opening the hood and letting the engine "air out", when it's not particularly hot out, or leaving it for a few hours and returning in the evening when it is cooler.

    Yesterday, it failed to start right after I pumped gas in the afternoon. I was able to get it started by waiting a few minutes with the hood open.

    I've had the car for five months and never had any issues starting in the winter.
    It's 13 years old and has about 110,000 miles on it. The battery is newish.
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