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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • flacaflaca Posts: 168
    Well, second dealership is replacing the transmission under warranty and has also corrected the codes relating to the check engine light (3 parts were changed). A new transmission at 21k miles! Oh my, now I am scared. I have two more years on the lease. Thank God, I bought the extended warranty!!
    We'll see when i pick up the car tomorrow.
    Now, I have to fight with first dealership to get back my money for the rental car. They made me pay for the rental eventhou I was told it would be covered by them. I will be writing to VW of A very soon airing out my complaints. I have been withhout my Jetta for over 20 days total. Shouldn't they reimburse me for 20 days of lease time?
  • anonymous02anonymous02 Posts: 1,538
    How about 20 days of PAY time!!??
  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    VWoA is not going to give you either 20 days of pay or lease time. They will say sorry about the inconvience and have a great day. If VW provided compensation for time your car spends in the shop, they woulr be paying so much out to customers that they would never make $.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    I always thought that a LEASE was just that... THEY "own" the vehicle and you are just using it.
    Thus... they "own" all repairs.(When one 'leases' an apartment... the landlord must fix broken plumbing and roofs.)


    When you BUY a vehicle, you OWN it and have somthing to trade towards another vehicle when you want.

    When one LEASES... there is absolutely NO BENIFETS
    You do not OWN it, and STILL have to pay for repairs!!.... in the end they take it back and you have absolutely nothing to trade in or drive.

    I guess there are a lot of suckers out there that start with an "owned" vehicle and get into a lease real cheap (because of the trade-in value) HOWEVER... when the lease is up they get a big surprise.... since this time, there is nothing to trade in and they are STUCK leasing forever.

    That is why I SAVE my $$ until I can purchase a car... then while I am driving it, I save for the next purchase. (Takes about 12 years at about $150 a month)
  • I worked as a sales and leasing rep. at a large Lincoln Mercury dealer in Florida for 6-7 yrs. Comparing an and car lease are not a true comparison since you can always exercise your purchase option on the vehicle but not to own an apt. that still might have maintenance fees every year just as a condo or co-op would. Leasing is not for all. I have both owned and leased vehicles. I have found that it cost me always less in a lease vs. ownership. Mileage for me has always run 12-15k per year. Extremely high mileage drivers are better off buying conventionally. I would never lease a vehicle for longer than the factory warranty nor pay for extended warranty coverage or even buy maintenance in advance. Some high dollar cars have all the factory maint. included in their bumper to bumper warranty. I have usually only paid for each oil and filter change each 5k miles and had tires rotated and balanced each 7-8k miles for even wear as to not have to put tires on the car at return time. I have never put down anything more than 1st month payment and a tag fee and tax. Many lease companies will forgo a security deposit with good credit or past good payment history with them such as Ford motor credit. The main objective of a lease is to pay for depreciation in the vehicle instead of purchasing an equity stake in a vehicle that will depreciate no matter what plus pay interest to the bank that will still have the lien on the car unless you paid cash for it up front. Yes they have some low lease offers which usually means it is low mileage ie. 10k per year or 48 mos. or 39 months to stretch out the larger payment into something smaller. Sometimes a lease is good for someone that needs a lower payment for a few years. If you get a lease that fits your mileage and pay all of the payments and drive within your miles then you cannot get upside down with a payoff more than vehicle value. I have been able to extend a few 2 yr leases to get to the next model year vehicles and even to let some heavy mileage avg. drop down with a few months of less mileage. The consumer should always know the interest rate used in a lease that the lease charges are based upon. IN addition should never take on an OPEN ended lease which requires possible negotiation of vehicle value at lease termination time. Someone who trades in alot before paying off a typical 5 yr loan is perfect for a lease since they never own the car they finance anyway.
  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    You make some brash statements for someone who (it sounds like) is not that familiar with leasing vehicles.

    "I always thought that a LEASE was just that... THEY "own" the vehicle and you are just using it.
    Thus... they "own" all repairs.(When one 'leases' an apartment... the landlord must fix broken plumbing and roofs.)"

    Eventhough you are leasing a car, you are still responsible for all maintenance and repairs. That's why it's never a good idea for leasing a car for longer than it's warranty period.

    Why would someone be stuck leasing forever? as you state in your post. I am currently leasing my jetta and when the lease is up, I can either hand it back to the dealer (which I plan to do) or buy the car. Why would I be stuck leasing again? I can buy if I want to.

    Apparently, leasing is not for you. But, don't call someone a sucker if they choose to lease a vehicle.
  • anonymous02anonymous02 Posts: 1,538
    I thought leasing meant the owner (lease company) paid for all service, etc. and the lessee (you) just pay for gas and insurance.

    I thought that was one of the main draws to leasing a vehicle, that you didn't have to worry about "all that stuff".

    Now I wonder why anyone would lease a car at all.

  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    When leasing a car the Owner (driver) is responsible for all service and maintenance not the leasing company. As far as repairs go, most of the time the car is under the manufacturer warranty so there is no money out of pocket for repairs.

    I really don't understand the confusion. When someone takes out a loan for a car.....does the bank or credit union where the loan was originated take care of the maintenance costs? No!! It's the smae with a lease company
  • I was about to buy a 2002 1.8 T last night but was having second thoughts. Are they really as much of a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] as everyone is saying? Is there anyone that has had a really good experience with theirs? Also I have a Honda Accord now and was wondering if the repairs are much higher on the Jetta and routine maintanence, i.e. oil changes, tires, etc costs more. Also I am almost poitive I am going to put a remote starter on the turbo to prevent any disasters in the future. My question is can I put a remote start on a tiptronic and is it worth it. The dealer says theses turbos are meant to get in a go, they don't need to warm up or cool down which I think is bull. Also she said that you only really need regular gas, I also think this is a crock. I live in Philly if that makes a difference to anything. Somebody please help me, I don't know what to do!
  • Tara, I thought if you bought the Turbo, you had to fill it with premium fuel. If the dealer is saying something different, I suggest you check the manual.

    Depending on where you live, VW maintenance can cost more than Honda maintenance; this is certainly true where I live, because there are plenty of Honda dealers and independent service shops that handle Hondas, but fewer that work on VWs.
  • anonymous02anonymous02 Posts: 1,538
    I thought this was a family chat room!


  • target3target3 Posts: 155
    I have a 2002 1.8T Manual with almost 10,000 miles on it. I love the car - absolutely no problems.

    Yes, the manual says premium fuel (i.e. 91 octane or higher) recommended. That is all I use.

    As far as a remote starter goes, I would not get one. Yes, you should drive the car and take it easy until it warms up before you give 'er. However, I have also heard that to just start the car and let it idle can also cause problems. Who knows?

  • htjhtj Posts: 1
    Most people will be driving at least one car at any one time over their active adult lifetime. That car can either be owned (financed or purchased for cash) or leased. The only difference is the name on the title. You still pay for the same depreciation, financing cost, gas, service, maintenance, etc, whichever mode of "ownership" you choose. The only difference is by the time you can not drive anymore at say 85 years old, you have a car to trade-in (if you have always owned) or not (if you have always leased). At this point in my life I don't care about having a $5,000 trade-in when I'm 85.
    So I always lease a car because I'd rather have somebody else worryng about trade-ins etc every time I want a new car to replace an old one.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    In Philly, it doesn't get cold enough to need a remote starter. I'm in Minneapolis and I don't have one. Having a turbo shouldn't matter. If anything, a turbocharged engine heats up faster. I'd let it warm up for maybe 30 seconds--if it's really cold. Let the RPMs drop a couple hundred and start driving. Use a good synthetic and drive it nice until the temp gauge is where it's supposed to be and your car will love you.
  • can anyone tell me if the 2.0 in a friends 96 jetta is an interference engine and when the belt should be changed
  • I have to agree with newcar31. Turbo cars do not need any more warm up time than naturally aspirated cars. And they probably DO warm up faster. I once read in a book called "Drive it Forever" that an engine should not be excessively idled after start up. It's hard on the piston rings (hard to pump cold oil into such tight tolerances) and with VWs (which are all overhead cam engines) it's very hard on the valve train and cam lobes. Especially as the car gets older. I'm sure this especially true of a turbo engine.
    I personally recommend letting an engine idle 30 seconds for every ten degrees below 32 degrees F. I have done this religiously since I got into working on cars as a hobby and found it to be a good rule of thumb. So if it's 10 degrees out your best bet would be to let it idle for minimum of a full minute before moving the car.
    The book also said that an engine warms faster (obviously) while moving but it also gives the benefit of full oil pressure to all areas of the engine. This has always made sense to me. Plus it warms the wheel bearings, transmission fluid and gets the thermostat open sooner so you get warmer faster. : )
    As far as letting a turbo "cool down" is concerned, at this late date with turbo technology being what it is I would not treat the car any differently than a naturally aspirated car UNLESS I was just out driving the you know what out of it. Then yes, I would give the turbo a few minutes of idle in the garage before shutting it down. Turbos at full boost spin in the neighborhood of 80,000 rpm to 180,000 rpm for some small frame units and yes they generate LOTS of heat. A cool down period would do it right if you are prone to running it hard. Of course a turbo timer would never HURT your car and if I were to buy turbo car I'd put one in. Also, like newcar31 said, use a synthetic oil. Mobil 1 is always my choice.
    Finally, I have a 2001 VR6 Jetta with 28K on it with no major problems. No window issues, no rattles, no check engine light etc. The rear brakes are wearing a bit fast and the manual tranny synchros are annoying at best. But the car has never left me sitting ANYWHERE. In fact, overall I love my car. So to come on a forum about Jetta problems and ask if you should get one is really putting yourself into a biased inquisition. The fact is, ANYONE can get a lemon. As a number of people on this forum can attest to. But I also had a 2000 VR6 GLS with ZERO problems to 17K when it was wrecked. So my advice to you is to jump off that fence and go buy a Jetta. Also, get one with the 17 inch wheel package and "sport" suspension. You'll be glad you did.
  • Thanks to everyone for their input on the Jetta. I actually decided to get a 2003 turbo with the sport package. I love it! Knock on wood, I don't have any probs. I'll prob end up crashing before the car crashes on me! I think I may get the remote just for convenience. About how much more are the oil changes on the T than regular cars? And would you get it changed every 3,000 k? I have been with my other cars.
  • anonymous02anonymous02 Posts: 1,538
    I usually let the car warm up for 5 or 10 minutes while I have breakfast. The car is nice and toasty and the windshield is clean by then.

    I wonder if I need to rethink that.

  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    You all know it's actually better for the car to warm up slowly while DRIVING rather than letting the car sit and warm up. It is really never good for a car to sit and idle. I have read that in several of my car magazines. I doubt it will ruin your car, but from what i've heard its better to drive it lightly when warming up the car.
  • anonymous02anonymous02 Posts: 1,538
    ...but it sure is nice having a melted windshield and warm interior!
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