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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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  • colabacolaba Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 VW Jetta VR6 with appx. 48K miles on it. I've had it for 8 months, but owning it for the last 2 months hasn't been fun. Here's why -

    1. The 'Check Engine Light' keeps coming on, and it stays on for 1 or 2 days and goes off.

    2. Upon starting the car, it moves in a jerky motion for some time before returning to normalcy.

    3. The EPC and the ASR lights have come on a couple of times, and the car has lost power. Upon re-starting the car the EPC and ASR lights did NOT come back on and the car seemed to work OK except for the jerky motion.

    I've taken it to a shop which I found on the AutoZone website. The mechanic performed the Scan and then ran the Diagnostic ($75). The error code he came up with is P1142F (I think) and is related to 'Load Distribution / Disbursement?' and 'Air Flow / Mixture?'

    He thinks its the "coil" that needs to be replaced ($450) and/or the "wires" ($200). Does this sound reasonable or am I not going to get these problems resolved even after spending all this money? Please advise.

    Thanks!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    One simple check of the coil and wires is to use a spray-bottle with water in it.

    With engine idling, spritz water on the various ignition components. A cracked coil or leaky wire will immediately "show itself" by making the idle get rough. Theroretically, you should be able to HOSE DOWN the engine with a garden hose while it is idling and it will never miss a beat. (dont try it, you can crack the block whith cold water on a hot engine)

    If the problem is the coil, you may wish to try removing it and sealing any cracks with hi-temp silicone RTV. It is worth a try.Just yesterday, I pulled the ignition coil from my daughters Golf and bathed it in hot-soapy water. After a good scrubbing, rinsing and drying, she is happly driving her car again. (She too, was experiencing a cylinder not firing due to ignition system leaking high-voltage)

    It it is the wires, I often have been able to "revitilize" them by removing and thoroughly cleaning them. (grit on the wires/connectors can cause leaking of the hi-voltage when they are damp.)

    I found that coil for your 2001 VR6 for $265 and the wires for $93.45 at
    http://www.germanautoparts.com
  • fblackfblack Posts: 26
    I have a 2000 Jetta GLS and the Windows, Sunroof, and Keyless Entry all don't work. I think it may be a fuse or fuses, however I am a girl and can't quite figure out how to do it.

    The fuse box has symbols and numbers but I can only make out a few of them and I have no idea which ones need replacing.

    Need Help!
  • cschmiegcschmieg Posts: 1
    I'm experiencing a similar problem. Wife's 2000 Jetta stops running after about 15 mins--the yellow engine light comes on and engine dies. (It'll turn over, but not start.) It usually takes about an hour before we can start it again. Wife also states that the engine light has come on once while she was driving on the highway, sputtered for a sec, but did not cut out. The engine has stopped running 4x in the last week (including my drives today to and from the garage).

    Garage was able to get a diagnostic code, but it proved too generic to identify the exact problem (something re. engine rpms, if I remember correctly).

    Our mechanic suspects the problem could be the coil pack, but is not certain. Before blowing money on what could be a needless repair, would welcome any advice!

    Thanks.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    A repair is never "needless", It is only misdiagnosed-UNNECESSARRY repairs that are needless.

    I have always wonderd how automible repair shops would change their ways and show more competency if THEY had to pay for all replaced parts that turned out to not fix a problem.

    You could always get a coil-pack from a salvage-yard, the parts from there are cheeper and often much more reliable than new ones. In the world of industry, a fully-tested replacement component costs MORE than a new one that has never proven itself yet.
  • chrislagchrislag Posts: 1
    The same thing happened to me regarding losing power and the EPC lights for my 2001 Jetta. First, the coils were the problem and have since been recalled by VW. If you bring it to a VW dealership I would think they would replace them for free. Second, the EPC light required a new valve or something which cost $140. Even though dealerships tend to traditionally be more expensive, I would check out your issues with them before you plunk down the $$ with someone else.
  • chrisnhchrisnh Posts: 22
    Well days of looking, cleaning and etc. Tied a rag around the "oil sending" or oil sensor unit. Ran it up 7 mile hill to look at the ex Old Man of the Mountain. Rag soaked with oil. Replaed it. No more oil leaks. That little thing can leak some serious oil when it gets hot and evidently be pretty tight when it is not.

    One for the humans. Thanks for the good thoughts and advice on similar problems on this forum. :)
  • chrisnhchrisnh Posts: 22
    Got a new coil, new distributor & rotor and sparkplug wires in last 1000 miles. But car does not like water.

    Rainy day so took the Jetta for a spin. Feel it miss, check engine light started blinking, then came on full. Pulled under a bridge, popped the hood, sprayed WD-40 on distributor cap, where I saw some water splashes. Ran it through more puddles, started to miss again. Looked, really hit the distributor cap. Hit the sparkplug wires where they went under the hood seemed to run better. OBD code said #1 cyl missing.

    Then a visitor from NJ came out and we started talking about what was going on. He has a 1995 Jeep which he maintains. Any I told him abour the sparkplug wire, he said probably not normal. I got out the spray bottle, adjusted it to a very fine mist. 1/4 spray and it started sparking . We could see where it was comming out of thewire, just above the shield.

    New theory, steam from the engine creates conditions where it starts to spark. Why it started sparking there is a mystery. Guess I better replace just that wire, if possible.

    A little closer to man over machine on this one item.
  • gwhawesgwhawes Posts: 2
    I went to the salvage yard and bought a coil for $60. I put it in, ran the car for 15 minutes and it died again. I think I'm going to have to bring it in and get it looked at. If I find something out I will post it here.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    Don't use WD-40. I would use a product called STP Wire Dryer - which is designed to eliminate moisture from your electrical components.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    When it comes to something like ignition coils, I would avoid the salvage yard and buy a new one. The coil probably cracked while sitting in the salvage yard through the heat and cold weather cycles (for who knows how long...)...

    germanautoparts.com has a new ignition coil pack for 1999+ Jetta with 2.0L engine for
    $99.75. I would rather spend the extra $40 bucks for a new coil than take my chances with a $60 used one...

    http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Jetta/EngineElectrical/57/12
  • jrhodesjrhodes Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 VW-Jetta VR6 and have been having EPC light problems for about 7 months now. I was originally told by VW that I needed a new catalytic converter for $1,700. I balked and took it elswhere and was told that I definitely didn't need the catalytic converter. Now, it randomly comes on while I'm driving and my car will stall. I've taken it in a few times and the repair shop has never been able to pinpoint the problem. Two months ago I had my battery replaced because it boiled over and that seemed to solve the problem until this morning...driving to work. The check engine light and EPC light came on while driving on the highway. The Check engine light went out but the EPC light stayed on. The car seemed to be driving ok though (the manual says that it will run at reduced power). After getting to work, I turned off the car and restarted it - - the EPC light did not stay on. I don't know what to do. I've just about had it with taking this car into the shop. It seems that the repair shop is at their witts end as well. I've suggested the ignition coil and been turned down. Any ideas?????
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    I would also have the 0-2 sensors checked out -just in case...
  • bsc1bsc1 Posts: 32
    Anybody have any electric problems with the new Jettas?
  • jrhodesjrhodes Posts: 2
    I'm having it looked at right now. The repair guy said it sounded like the "BUS was shutting down"? I don't know what that means but my fingers are crossed. On the way to drop it off the engine stalled and somehow got itself back. I think that there's something wrong in the electrical wiring or main computer. Other than the weird EPC light problems the car runs great. If the root cause can just be figured out. Is it possible to get the car's computer reloaded?
  • lafreem2lafreem2 Posts: 1
    Has anyone been able to find a solution to this? My 2003 Jetta GLS (automatic) does this as well, however not just in the morning. It does it especially when going from 2nd to 3rd gear. It's a hard jerk. I took it to the dealership to be looked at today and they of course "were unable to duplicate the problem." They want me to come in and try to duplicate this for them. I find it unbelievable that no one has ever come to them with this problem before. According to my service manager, "all the specs" of my car are in order so they have no idea what hte problem is.

    Any advice would be MUCH appreciated.

    A second problem I'm having is that my car is CREAKING quite a bit at low speeds.
    Thanks!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    (600kgolfgt) That "STP Wire Dryer" is obviously a copy of what WD40 is intended to do. I am sure either product does a fine job.

    WD40 actually stands for Water Displacer (formula #40)

    WD40 was originally formulated for the milatary. The chemist went thru 39 previous formulations before he settled on the last formula (#40)

    It was then marketed to the public as "WD40"... but its main purpose in life is still a Water Displacer.
  • vr6boravr6bora Posts: 2
    Ignition coil. The VR6 ignition coils are notorious for cracking and allowing moisture to cause "arc-ing" which will cause the rough running and loss of power you describe. You can confirm this is the problem yourself. Simply fill a spray bottle with water and, with the engine running, spray water on your ignition coil. If you see sparking and the engine runs roughly when you do this you'll know where the problem is. A VR6 coil costs about $500. You can try coating it with epoxy after drying it out instead of buying a new one.
  • vr6boravr6bora Posts: 2
    Ignition coil. The VR6 ignition coils are notorious for cracking and allowing moisture to cause "arc-ing" which will cause the rough running and loss of power you describe. You can confirm this is the problem yourself. Simply fill a spray bottle with water and, with the engine running, spray water on your ignition coil. If you see sparking and the engine runs roughly when you do this you'll know where the problem is. A VR6 coil costs about $500. You can try coating it with epoxy after drying it out instead of buying a new one.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    STP Wire Dryer becomes dry upon contact, while WD-40 leaves an oily residue.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    bpeebles found the 2001 VR6 coil and the wires at http://www.germanautoparts.com for less than $500. (See post #3630).
  • Hi everyone, as you can tell from my name, I am a car junkie, just not on anything after 1990. I have a used 2001 GLS 1.8t 5 speed that I just got 6 months ago. I drove my car home the other night with absolutely no troubles at all. Then the next morning went to start it and it wont turn over. The starter is working great and the battery is charged. New cars (expecially non-GM) is an area I'm not real experienced in. It seems like it may be a fuel pump, but then again it could be electrical. Does anyone know of anything it may be? I have had all recalls done on it within the last 6 months. I am going to take it to get fixed but just was wondering if anyone may know of a common problem first. :sick:

    One last thing, If anyone in the Tampa Bay area is looking for a great VW shop go to BOB BOAST VW in Bradenton! I go 40 miles to get to them even though I have a Dealership 3 miles from my house. The are open on the weekends and have GREAT SERVICE and HONESTY. :D (nothing like a shameless plug hu?)
  • rennie1rennie1 Posts: 2
    Sorry so long. I had the engine vibration issue. The front bearings are not sealed and can be lubed. It was from the rear bearing. I was told that hot weather is murder on sealed bearings. Once the rear we replaced, the vibration went away. The clip issue for the windows is not only a VW issue, BMW and Mercedes had the same problem.
  • rennie1rennie1 Posts: 2
    gum on the end of a straw
  • donshardonshar Posts: 3
    My 1995 has an oil leak. A mechanic indicated that it is coming from a leaky head gasket. Has anyone ever heard of a leaky head gasket causing an oil leak. It costs about $700 to replace it so I want to make sure that it fixeds the problem.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    If your head gasket is leaking, it would leak a lot more than just oil (also engine coolant). Make sure it's not the valve cover gasket that's leaking instead of the head gasket...
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    Does not sound righ to me - I have heard of a leaky head gasket allowing oil & engine coolant to mix - oil in the radiator or coolant in the oil.

    But if you have oil dripping out on to the ground it sounds more like a rear main seal (which could cost that much) or a valve cover gasket (which would NEVER cost that much to fix)
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    A rear main seal would be close to the dollar amount quoted (since the majority of that cost is the labor involved to remove and reinstall the transmission)...
  • I have a 2002 Jetta GLX that continues to cause me problems. The car has been in the shop numerous times for electrical and coolant problems. I've be to three different dealerships and they fix the problems, but every six months the coolant light comes on and there is a problem with the car overheating or a problem with the A/C.

    Two weeks ago they replaced a fuse for the coolant system and fans for the
    A/C. The A/C was blowing out hot air. Now two weeks later the A/C has a bad smell when you start the A/C. The dealer is telling me that it's because of Mold and it's something not covered under warrenty. Has anyone else had problems with Mold in their A/C? I'm not sure how this could happen and does it have anything to do with the Coolant System, which has caused me many problems? Thanks. Daniel
  • bebechicbebechic Posts: 1
    I drove my Jetta out of town about 100 miles from where I live. When I started my car to head back home, the car/engine started shaking really bad. Shortly after, the coolant temp. warning light came on and stayed on, followed by the check engine light. Note: during this month my mother mentioned she saw fluid leaking out from the engine. I drove my car home and it's been sitting for about two months. Currently there is no tranny fluid, all other fluids fine. I had it towed to a shop where they specialize in trannys. In order for them to properly diagnosis my car, it must be in normal running condition first, it was missing a hit.? (It's like a foreign language to me.) So with their advice it has been tuned up and the ignition coil replaced. If all goes well they can start looking at the tranny. I really don't know what I'm doing. Any input or advice appreciated. Thanks
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