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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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  • tricia1108tricia1108 Posts: 4
    First let me say I love my jetta and up till now I've really had no major problems. However, currently my temperature gauge has been doing some weird things. Sometimes it works, sometimes it'll be in the middle (where it should be) and sudden drop to the left side. Sometime it'll start to move to the middle and then drops back to the left side. I talked with on mechanic (not VW) and he said that I should "bail" on my car! I was shocked!! I have an appointment on Monday at the VW service station. Has anyone had this problem???
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I had an erratic temperature gauge that would wander similarly to the way you describe (not in a Jetta) and after a new thermostat and a new sending unit things are perefectly normal again.

    I am not a mechanic or even very handy, but I don't think I'd use the mecahnic who tells you to dump a car based on something that might be caused by a bad sending unit and/or bad thermostat.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    PLEASE do not post the same question in several forums. Most of us are subscribed to all of the VW forums and have to read the same thing over and over again.

    I have already responded to your question elsewhere.... now you have answers spread all over the place and it is hard to follow the thread.
  • jpcammarjpcammar Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 GLS (2.0, 4CYL, MT) with 32,000 miles that I bought brand new. I recently noticed some odd behavior with the temperature gauge. Earlier today, I was driving and the tempature gauge reached 240 degrees after I had traveled about 5 miles after a cold engine start. The temp light did not come on but I pulled over anyway. The coolant reservoir was full and I saw no signs of a leak. So, I went shopping at the Best Buy across the street for about 2 hours, came back and started it up again. I made it home but the gauge was hovering between 220-240F once again but the temp light didn't come on again either. The manual says that tempature fluctuation is normal if the temp light doesn't come on but it was 65F outside and I have never seen the temp gauge go above 195F in the 2.5 years I have owned the car. Not to mention, I was in 5th and the RPMs were at 2200. I have taken the car on 8 hour road trips in the dead heat of the Carolina summer season and I have never seen the operating temp of the vehicle exceed 195F. I am inclined to believe the thermostat is going bad but I'm not sure...
    Has anyone seen this behavior with their Jetta? Is this normal and should I not be concerned? Thanks in advance!!
  • When I start my car my headlights, A/C, blower, and wipers don't work. There is also a strange 'ghost' light that says my e-brake is on when it isn't. When I turn the key to the right, as if to start it when it is already running (without engaging the starter of course) the problem goes away, but comes back if I do not hold the key in the position. Also, I can get my headlights to come on if I hold my brights on. Any thoughts on the cause of this malfunction?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    What you describe sounds like a poor ground somwhere. This causes what is known as a "ground loop" wheras current is flowing 'backwards' thru things. This is often seen as the "e-brakbrake light" glowing...or the blinkers quitting when you hit the brake pedal..

    Another thing that I have done with EVERY vehicle that I have ever owned is to locate, remove, and file the paint from underneath every factory ground point. This effort has rewarded me with fewer ground issues over the years.

    Keep in mind that I am TRAINED in electronics and am very familear with "ground loops" and how they manifest themselves. An electrical system with resistive ground points can behave in VERY strange ways.

    For example, a resistive ground may be good enough to do simple things, but when asked to carry higher currents (such as headlites or AC), the entire electrical system goes nuts because current is now flowing 'backwards' thru wires that are EXPECTED to be a solid ground point.

    If you have a DVM (DigitalVoltMeter) there are additional tests you can do to isolate the failing ground. Clip the BLACK lead to the battery NEGATIVE and probe on various points of the electrical system that are SUPPOSED to be ground.
    The reading should ALWAYS be less than 50mV at all times. (turn on various electric things to verify.) If you detect a problem, just add a wire from there to a good ground. The problem will be fixed.

    These kinds of problems are often VERY difficult to isolate. It is often easier to just add additional ground wires to key points of the electrical system to compensate for the ones that are failing.
  • anne82anne82 Posts: 1
    when warming up my car in the morning it sounds lika an airplane after warming up the sounds goes away. the sound is almost as if there might be a hole in something and that a lot of air is coming through the somethings causing this airplane noise. vw dealership told me this was normal then i came to find out a year later he lied the vw dealer ship cant tell me whats wrong and when i went to smog my car 15 codes popped up. the car runs fine engine sounds good no problems with power but i swear every other week its something else with this car :sick:
  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    Your car is still under warranty, so just let the dealer troubleshoot the problem...for FREE!!
  • SylviaSylvia Posts: 1,636
    A reporter is looking to speak with owners of Chrysler, Saab, Toyota or Volkswagen vehicles who did all the scheduled maintenance on their vehicle and still experienced engine sludge within the warranty period within the past year. If this describes your situation, please respond by 6pm Eastern on Monday, May 23, 2005 to jfallon@edmunds.com.
    Thanks for your consideration,
    Jeannine Fallon
    Corporate Communications
    Edmunds.com
  • nospamnospam Posts: 54
    Hey, I have a 2000 jetta GLX and I was having a similiar clicking issue wiht my car as well. I was even able to fell it on my feet. Anyway, I took the car in and I needed to get my two lower left and right ball joints replaced. It was actually more serious then I had anticipated. So I figured that might be something you should check out if you haven't already gotten it fixed. It cost me about $260 for parts and labor...should be the same for you.
  • nospamnospam Posts: 54
    Apparently my driver side mirror is begining to rust cause these brown, strange but actually quite elgante, streaks are forming underneath the mirror. I spoke to my guy at the body shop and as I understand it VW has some type of aluminum sheet that the mirror attches to to create better reflection or possible reduce glare...something along those lines. Anyway, the brown coloring has created these streaks on the underside of my mirror and I don't know what to do about. I'm not sure if I can remove the mirror and clean the aluminum sheet or what but my mechanic said he would have to replace the whole thing for something like $300 and I don't want i to come to that. Has anyone heard of this problem before? Does anyone have any suggestion on how to solve it?
  • I have the same exact car (2000 VW Jetta VR6) with the same problem. I just bought the car about a week ago and when I started it the other day the EPC light was on so I took it back to the dealership I purchased it from (Toyota) and told them what was going on. They kept it for the day and when I contacted them about it they said they had sent the car to the local VW dealership who told me that my problem was common for this year and model and was covered under one of VW's recalls. When I purchased the car Toyota gave (sold for $1150) me a 3yr 36000 mile warranty that this is covered under so I cant tell you how much it cost. The car wont be done until tomorrow so I cant tell you for sure if that fixed the problem yet, but you may want to ask your dealer if all the recalls have been performed on your car. I dont know if this will help at all but i thought since we had the same car with the same problem (so it seems) this would give you something to try.
  • etherbfddetherbfdd Posts: 1
    i have a 96 jetta glx and my power windows and mirrors are not working i found a 5 amp fus eunder the hood that was blown one day and replaced it shortly after that my windows worked for about three days but since i have replaced the fuse over and over but my windows still don't work has anyone had similar problems and know how to fix this
  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    Did you get the car inspected by an independent mechanic prior to your purchase?
  • redvr6redvr6 Posts: 1
    My check engine light has been on several times; after paying VW for 2 hours of labor to check it, I replaced Oxygen sensor. I've also replace the spark plug wires, OS again, as well as some other parts. The check engine light has been on again for about 8 months and the EPC light came on three weeks ago. The car runs fine; but the lights are annoying - I don't think there's a"real" problem.

    Someone in an earlier post mentions replacing the ignition coil; do you hink I should do this. Should I get an ODBII reader and find out what codes are being returned?

    One other thing; often when I start the car, the exhaust smells like sulfur and/or rotten eggs - anyone else?

    Have also had the window fall out, moonroof issues, starter, bad smelling A/C.....

    I'm tired of dishing out cash for hit-or-miss remedies.

    Also, a recall was mentioned, related to the EPC light; details?

    Thanks much
  • bogoatsbogoats Posts: 1
    I just brought my 2005 Jetta GL (manual transmission) in for it's 5k oil change and I reported that I was getting a humming noise when turning the wheel accelerating from a dead stop. According to a VW bulletin, changing the tranny fluid to a synthetic based will eliminate this problem. It affects all Jettas '99 and newer. Has anyone else had this problem? Are there any long term effects from it(like premature transmission replacement)? The humming noise has ceased since replacing the tranny fluid. The dealer I went to is supposedly pretty reputable in this area and their service department has never seen this before. Seems strange since it has been a problem since 1999.
  • The car was VW and Toyota certified as well as being covered by a Toyota 3 yr 36000 mi bumper to bumper warranty which allows me to have the car serviced at any VW or Toyota dealership. With 42,000 mi on it I talked the dealership down to $9500 on a car with a retail of $13775 and it had the bumper to bumper warranty I thought I couldn't go wrong. As it is the dealership (or Toyota) is footing the bill for all the work being done.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The "humming during turning" is a known problem (as witnessed by the TSB)

    My 2003 Jetta has done it since new, now that I know that it is the differential, I just ignore it. It does not harm anything.

    BTW - I beleive that the factory manual xmission fluid is synthetic-based anyway.
  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    I'll take that as a no, as far as getting it inspected. It's great that it is a CPO vehicle. But, from the research I have done, many dealers don't really do a thorough inspection of these cars. They just "certify" the car and tack a warranty (which is great) on it and place it on the used car lot.

    I just know too many people that have gotten burned on used cars. You have no idea how the car was driven. If the car was driven hard, the damage it caused may not show up until many years down the road causing possible engine, tranmission, etc....failure. But, who's to say a brand new car won't have the same problems. :confuse:

    I hope you have great luck with your car and I'm glad you have a warranty that will cover any repairs.
  • waiwai Posts: 327
    Is it all dealerships in USA can certify the preowned vehicles they traded in even though they are not the dealership? Do they know how to repair those cars or they will send to that brand's dealership for repair?
  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    Good questions that I don't have answers for....
  • justinthrljustinthrl Posts: 1
    Ok... i don't know if this is the way it is supposed to work or not... i just purchased a 99 1/2 Jetta... Today it is finally 90 degrees and i decided to turn on the A/C to my surprise the car only blows cold air when the vehicle is sitting at 2k rpms and higher. So if i am in stop and go traffic i get nothing but hot air... as soon as i speed up it is icy cold... what is going on here??? please help!!! :confuse:
  • My Jetta was covered by a Toyota warranty issued by a Toyota-Volvo-Jaguar dealership. The Warranty lets me have the car serviced at any Toyota OR VW dealership with no charge.
  • The recall they performed on my car included two switches, one of which was the brake light switch...im sorry I cant remember what the other was I have the paperwork out in the car ill check later. I just got my car back this afternoon so as to whether it solved the problem we'll have to see...
  • My '00 VR6 was also having problems with the a/c working sporadically, the dealership replaced the a/c grounding wire to fix. Dont know if this will help but maybe its a place to start??
  • bmik67bmik67 Posts: 1
    I was searching online to see if others have had problems with their wiper system on 2000-series Jettas. I can hear the motor running for the wipers, but they do not move. Apparently is a difficult repair and known to the car repair community. As soon as I described the problem to my mechanic and mentioned Volkswagen, he said I have to call the dealer. It is an intrusive (and probably expensive) repair. One would think the mechanical fuse of this system would be easily accessible for service.
  • paddypaddy Posts: 2
    I wish to tow a small pop-up trailer with my 2.0 L diesel manual trans. total weight of trailer about 1000lb. Tongue weight abut 100lb. Is this workable?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    It is known that the "pivot points" for the wipers can corrode and sieze up. It is a good idea to lubricate them periodically. Unfortunately, one cannot just squirt some oil in a convienient spot.

    It takes some tools (10 MM socket) and then pulling the wiper arms off the splines.
    Then remove the vailance over the pivot points to access, clean, and lubricate them. It is certainly not "rocket science" but if not lubricated occasionally, then eventually the motor will either not be able to move the wipers -- or break the linkage.

    There are detailed instructions on how to do this on the internet... you should be able to find out all you need to know with less than 15 minutes of searching.
  • jason0820jason0820 Posts: 21
    Have a '03 Jetta 2.0, and have experienced erratic problems with the error code coming on in the single deck CD player (standard factory installed)... I use primarily burned CDs, but error also comes on when playing standard store purchased music CDs.
    It doesn't happen all the time, but every so often when I turn on the player... usually goes away after I switch back to radio and then back to CD, then it starts reading it again fine. Anyone else experience this quirk in the factory instal CD player??
  • I Have a 99 1/2 jetta diesel 5 sp with 215,000 km's that has been towing a small trailer since new. Once when I overloaded the trailer and lugged the engine down I fouled the MASS air flow sensor. Turbo and fuel would not work properly( 50 mph top speed ) Replaced sensor worked great. Major problem with towing is not to overload breaking system,. The car was not designed to tow . I have had no problems but with towing safety is always a issue. My tongue weight never went as high as 100 lbs. but the trailer weight has exceeded 1000 lbs.Maybe your axle on the trailer can be shifted forward to lower the tongue weight
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