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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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  • I have a 2002 Jetta GLS with a Monsoon system. I parked my car at about 7 in the pm and the stereo worked fine, the next morning it wouldn't turn on... I can't find exactly which fuse it is because the scematic is unclear, i pulled the 15's and none of them were blown, the LED light that indicates the theft protection still blinks but the radio isn't getting any power...Any Ideas?
    Thanks
    Ryan
  • mjacquaymjacquay Posts: 1
    I have recently moved with in the past two months, and have had my 2002 jetta in and out of about 4-5 different VW service shops. And I just want to start out by saying that apparently VW of America really doesn't care about there customers, and that I have yet to find even a marginally good VW service department.

    About six or so months after buying the car, my wife and I would hear an occasional tinky clank after going over bumps in the road. After taking it in several times during the extended warranty, the service dept. has no idea and says everything is fine. Six months later I am crawling under my car to check out the under side of the car ( because the clanging is louder and and because it now tings when shifting from park to drive) and I find out that cover plate for the oil pan is broke. Apparently there was a stress crack in the steel plate and with the freezing and thawing grew in a c pattern around the bolt that was holding it on. The plate was only connected by one bolt and clanging around. After discovering this problem I had to point it out to the service dept. and then they fixed it.

    However my main complaint is about my AC. My AC works; however, on the dashboard, the two door side ac vents don't blow out any air at all (so small it is nominal). I was told by the VW service techs ( and manager) that in the newer designs the two main (center vents) have a fan behind them which give a greater flow and that the two side vents will put out less. All of this makes sense, but my car had no real flow out of the side vents. It took my three trips to the dealer to get some one to show me ac air flow out of the vents of another 2002 on the lot, so that we could compare the two. And guess what, my care was significantly worse than the demo car they used. Even the service tech and service manager came out and expressed concern about it. But here is the catch.....most of the ac stuff should be covered under warranty, but the only way to see if there is a crimp, break, or unhooked hose is to rip out the dash. If they take out the dash and find nothing to be warranty covered I have to pay a diagnostic fee of big dollars. I have been on a never ending catch 22 loop with customer care (VW of america) and the local dealership of where I currently live. Is there any advise for me to get this fixed since the vw service techs have expressed a problem yet are unwilling to fix it?
  • sandrosandro Posts: 7
    I have recently purchased a 04 Jetta TDI and I live in Arizona...It has been leaking from the bottom of the doors.....I have been told that VW has been using a light type of coating or seamed to be grease to use for sound proofing on the inside of the doors....It has been fine until the temps had reached 110F +....does anyone know or had this problem???
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    That is not really a "problem", it is the factory anti-rust treatment oozing out. Dont forget that VW is one of the rare automakers that has a 12-year/unlimited-miles corrosion warantee.

    I, for one, considerd the corrosion warantee a BIG PLUS when I was looking for a new vehicle. Around here, it is the rust that limits the life of a car.... not the milage.

    Although none of my vehicles has ever seen 110F, I have read that the oooze can make a real mess of ones pantlegs. I also have read that the oozing will subside over time.

    I wonder if any of you cars has been expected to start at -20F? ;-)
  • sandrosandro Posts: 7
    Thanks for the info. As for my car seeing -20F. Not with me in it....I cant stand anything below 30F!!...I have read that they can get hard to start. Does any of the TDI models have block heaters?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    TDI does not have "block heater" from the factory... but I added one and beleive me, it is plugged into that timer every night it is below 0F.

    I guess you have never needed the heated mirrors nor the heated windshield squirters either?... I take advantage of them all the time.
  • My 1997 Jetta has several issues:
    Right blinker blinks too fast.
    I pulled some fuses to check for faulty fuses and my radio went into anti theft mode and I cant get it to work. The code doesnt work.
    Every time I shift gears I hear this vibration it sounds like through the muffller?
    windows have been fixed twice and they keep breaking. falling off the holder?
    It has only 97,000 miles and I had to change all the hoses(air hoses) all cracked?

    Thanks for your help!
  • hlecoverhlecover Posts: 1
    It's fuse #42, a 25 AMP fuse. This same thing happens on my '02 Jetta about once every three months. Just take it out and wait a minute or so, put it back in. I even once had the dealer install a new radio while it was under warranty, as they believed that would fix this problem, but it didn't. It's a quick and easy fix, just annoying.
  • stang02stang02 Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Jetta III and as I was driving it yesterday, it would not upshift from 3rd to 4th. When it downshifted, it was very rough, almost like a manual downshifting too soon (the transmission is automatic). I tried to check the fluid level but couldn't find a dipstick. Any ideas on what could be causing the problem? Any help is appreciated.
  • hollyehollye Posts: 2
    I have the same car with the same # of miles and have also been experiencing the chronic stalling problem lately. It's making me crazy, and I'm concerned about being rear ended. Were you seeing the RPMs swing up and down from 800 to about 650, and then randomly dip below that and the engine would cut out? The mechanic says the computer doesn't detect any readings from the "throttle valve control module" but also said the replacement part alone would be 650.00. (I've read elsewhere that this is not a computerized part, so of course there's nothing to read... ??)

    The car didn't cut out when they test drove it (of course) so they suggested I live with the rough idle if I didn't want to spend the money. I have problems when coasting slowly around corners in parking lots, coming to a stop at the base of a ramp, and of course anytime the a/c is on.

    One way to avoid the problem seems to be to turn off the air, activate the e-brake at intersections, and gently give a little gas. Seems to me a better solution would be to adjust the tension on the gas pedal so that it would automatically do this for me. The mechanic thought that would mess up the computer.

    Anyone have any words of advice?
    Macmini, I feel your pain!
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    Right Blinker - Chances are the right turn signal bulb (either the front or rear) needs to be replaced. The fast blinking light is a feature that tells the driver that a bulb has gone bad. When you get a chance, turn the ignition key to the on position (without starting the engine), switch the turn signal to the right, and check the front and rear turn signals on the right side. You will find the faulty light in a matter of moments.

    Vibrations - Possibly a loose heat shield in either the catalytic converter, resonator (middle-muffler), or rear muffler.

    Air hoses dry up and crack over a period of time, especially if you live in the hotter climate areas. Given the age of your car, they were probably due to be changed.

    Window regulators - If you have power windows, I wish you luck... My 1997 has manual windows, so I can't help you there.
  • flacoflaco Posts: 4
    Hi:

    I recently had to replace the glove compartment door because one of the legs that hold it when open gave out. I purchased a used one at a yunkyard ((($30))) and I installed it with no problem.... almost.... I cannot get my original lock unit of the broken door to install it on the "new" one.... Does anyone know how to dismantle the glove compartment door to chage the lock?

    Thanks....
  • bryanusbryanus Posts: 1
    I have STF and STI, but I can not for the life of me find the link or tips on how to open the remote on my 2002 Passat remote to replace the battery. Can anyone enlighten me or send me the link to: kukumlima@gmail.com? TIA.
  • jettaroxjettarox Posts: 2
    Recently the battery died in my 98 Jetta GL. I returned from a vacation and got in my car to drive to work the next day and it would not turn over. It has 80k+ miles so I surmised that the battery needed to be replaced. I bought one from my local auto parts store and installed it and now strange things are happening:

    1. It idles roughly.
    2. Stalls when I turn on the AC.

    I have an after market CD player installed, so I did not have to worry about security codes. Was there something I missed when I installed the new battery? :confuse:
  • doctorz1doctorz1 Posts: 1
    i recently have discovered the problem of the passenger window having a mind of it's own > it continues to "insist" that i want it in the down position ! the only way i have been able to keep it in the up position is to use the drivers side dorr control and hold it's contact with my finger needless to say i can't drive like that > i need to find out if there is a solution ? thanks for your assistance
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    What you describe sounds like the "finger pinch" safety mecanism is telling the window to go back down.

    This problem is usually caused by the rubber seal around the glass 'dragging' enough to trick the safety mecanism to react. Oftentimes, applying some kind of 'lube' to the rubber will fix it.

    Try this, spritz some water on the rubber seals and try the window again. If that works, then the rubber seals are the issue.

    Please do not HOLD the switch in any posiition.... that may burnout the motor.
  • kofigankofigan Posts: 1
    I have a '97 Jetta with 186000 miles and one of the rear struts has blown. I want to replace it myself. Is it tricky? Do I need a lift? Do I need special tools?

    Thanks in advance for any help.
  • davejahnedavejahne Posts: 1
    hi, i'm having the same problem on my 97 jetta. did you have any luck finding the power window fuse? stupid owners manual....

    although i think i have a slightly different problem. my windows go down, but not up. i can put them up with the key in the passangers door, but not the driver door. (which won't lock either)

    any ideas?

    thank!
    dave
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    I would check the wiper relay (it's a small cube-like module that is usually plugged into the relay panel under the steering wheel) which controls the speed and timing of the wipers. It's an inexpensive part (around $25 or so).
  • vw05glivw05gli Posts: 1
    Two things on your stalling problem. My last car was a 95 Jetta III GLS. I experienced the same problems with rough idle, low pickup and stalling. The Check Engine light would come on at times and then go off again.
    If you look under the back seats, there MAY be a black plug with a bit of wire inside. This is the diagnostic tool. There is a diagnostic plug-in on the dashboard under a cover. Remove the ashtray and slide the cover over to reveal the plug-in. Then you have to get a manual and follow the diagnostic codes. This will reveal the problem most of the time.

    BUT, replace the Oxygen sensors. That solved my rough idle and took care of lots of other things. A smart VW mechanic finally told me that was the problem. IT was about 250 and not something you want to do yourself. Good luck! Also, I have Chiltons and Robert Bently manuals for the A3 Jetta/Golf 93-99 if anyone needs them. You pay shipping and 10.00 each.
  • italia79italia79 Posts: 2
    Hi,
    I own a VW Golf and within the past couple months the stick shift has become noisy when I shift. I have no problems shifting, but I hear a sort of squeaking noise now. I don't know if this is a minor problem or if it can be attributed to the clutch or tranmission?? The car is a 1995 and has 100,000miles. Does anyone have any ideas??? Thanks.
  • tobi22tobi22 Posts: 1
    My 2003 Jetta (automatic ) is having the same problems - jerking between gears. My car is in for the 7th time today for this exact problem. It will never 'duplicate' the jerking when I take it in. My dealership says that my car is unique and that they have know idea what is wrong. I am so frustrated. Once, they even took me for a test drive to see if I was causing the problem. They thought I must be driving an automatic with 2 feet. I was really pissed after this visit. They are thinking about replacing my transmission but do not know if this will solve the problem. I am sorry that I cannot give you any advice but it is good to know I am not the only one with this problem. Do you have any advice for me?
  • Hello-

    This is the same exact thing that has happened to my 97 jetta trek! I am currently wedging a piece of styrofoam the hold the headlight stalk back so I can drive with lights and wipers...really bad for washington weather. I tried a new headlight switch but that didn't work. Any responses to your post? what'd you end up doing?

    thanks

    matt :confuse:
  • Just received notice that my new Jetta needs its fuel supply clamp inspected, and probably replaced. Sputters when started, and runs "rough" for about 10 seconds, followed by a small puddle under the car (presuming this is the gas leak).

    Has anyone else noticed this, and/or other problems or safety recalls with the 2005 Jetta? Thanks!!
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Running rough for 10 seconds is apparently a normal (but odd) characteristic of this and other VW engines.

    Where is the puddle that you see, the clamp is in the engine compartment according to the recall. Does the puddle smell like gas?
  • Hi I was wondering if anyone could tell me how to reset my engine light. I was away for awhile and gave my car to my parents. When i got home and took back my car the engine light was on. They took it to a mechanic and after the light was on. Of course he didn't know how he tripped it and had no clue how to turn it off. He thought that wasn't a big deal anyway. I'm basically worried that if something does go wrong with the engine I wont have a clue because the lights always on anyway. Any advice will be appreciated. Thank you.
  • nneelynneely Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 VW Jetta Wagon. We are all familiar with those air conditioner drips that eventually evaporate and the spots go away. Well, for the past week, I have had a drip that is very oily, the spot isn't evaporating and it is making a mess on the garage floor. It is on the right side of the car near the front wheel. The dealer checked it today, twice, and found no oil leaks and said the oil level was right where it should be. He thought it was just an a/c drip that happened to be oily. Any thoughts on the subject??
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Is this the equivalent of the "check engine light"?

    If so, you can probably reset it by disconnecting the battery for maybe about an hour. The light will come back on if the OBD system is still detecting some problem.

    I don't think I'd have a lot of confidence in that mechanic, btw.
  • deaner14deaner14 Posts: 40
    I purchased a CarChip from Davis Instruments awhile ago. This device is pretty cool and described elsewhere on this site I believe. Regardless, there is a function within the CarChip that not only tells you why the CEL (check engine light) is on, but also allows you to reset it.

    Best bet is to buy one of these off eBay...
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