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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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  • I just got my brand new Jetta 2.5 back from the dealer following having had to return it due to the ARS turning itself off and the EPC light on the dash coming on. IN addition I had the rattling speaker problem. The car, I am happy to say is now perfect. They had to replace the wiring harness, this is now aparently an official recall (and is listed as such on my receipt), they also checked the previously recalled fuel clip and installed foam damping in the driver and passenger side front door which as solved the bass vibration issue. All done under warranty whilst I had a loaner the entire time. Thanks VW, good job!
  • As for the trunk, I tried mine out and asked my dealer and do not have a 10 second delay thingy happening at all, the dealer said that sometimes they are a little over engineered in terms of the opening mechanism and need tweaking by an engineer.
  • kdaveskdaves Posts: 1
    I went to use my headlights last night and they won't come on....neither will my daylight running lights, but my taillights come on and my yellow markers come on...has anyone had this problem or have any suggestions?!?! I looked in the fuse box and none of my fuses are blown, does anyone know if there is a fuse under the hood for the lights because I don't think all four bulbs are bad....Thanks
  • Thanks! I'm going to mention it the service advisor at my appt this wednesday.
  • Yes, that 10 second thing is a little odd, but I swear that is what the service tech told me. The VW customer care line said they'd look into it, because I think it sounded odd to them too.

    Unfortunately my trunk is not working as well today as it did yesterday. Yesterday I managed to shut the trunk all five times that I used it, on the first try. Today all 3 or 4 times I need to mess with it even after it was "closed."

    At one point, neither my husband nor I could get the trunk to register as closed, even though it clearly was closed. We pressed and pressed, and heard lots of clicking, but the dash display showed the trunk was still "open." We were unable to re-open the trunk using either the release or the key fob, and eventually I had to fold down the seat, and crawl inside the trunk and pull the release handle.

    It's the second time in 9 days that we've had to crawl into the trunk to open it. It's getting old pretty fast.

    I'll feel alot better once I get this trunk thing taken care of. That and the TSB for the door speaker buzzing.

    Well, right now I've got to write VW an email to tell them how I didn't enjoy having to crawl inside my trunk to open it.
  • Do you have more info on the TSB? I looked it up on Edmunds but says that TSB 0501 is for "DRIVER DOOR LOCK CYLINDER INOPERATIVE."

    Do you know where I can read more about these VW TSBs? Thanks.

    http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/recalltsb.do?step=tsb&year=2005&make=Volkswagen&model=J- etta&style=New+2.5+4dr+Sedan+%
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I think Edmunds has the 2005 new Jetta and the old Jetta confused and muddled together. I can email you some more info, if you want.
  • Sure, email me some more info about the TSB at bellymiller@hotmail.com. Thanks!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Although your story is long-winded, it sounds as if your problem has been resolved once you found a mechanic that was competent enough to understand VWs. I bet the original mechanic had no idea how to properly replace the sparkplugs on VW 2.0L engine. (Intake manifold should be removed and specail tool needed to pull the metal ESD armor.)

    By your description, most of your issues were caused by incompentent (with VWs) mechanic. I bet the "cooant sensor" was the initial problem and all the other issues were induced by sloppy sparkplug replacment.

    The "coolant sensor" is a very common problem on pre-2001 VWs. It has been superceeded at least 2 times since then. The reliable one is GREEN in color.

    As for the Cat-converter, READ YOUR OWNERS MANUAL!!! There is s FEDERAL EMMISSIONS WARANTEE that covers all emmissions equipment for 10-years, 100,000 miles. (It does not matter what the dealership "says")

    BTW: I am not clear on what needs to be "resolved" at this point???? Is your daughters VW not running OK now with no CEL ?
  • Tonight, after we securely closed the trunk lid, locked the car with the key fob, heard the chime, and went home, a neighbor came to our door to tell us that our trunk was open.

    This is getting ridiculous.
  • Hi! Can anyone tell me what was done to solve the "ratlling speaker" problem?

    Mine seems to rattle only with the Satellite radio.
  • mr5x5mr5x5 Posts: 8
    I apologize for the "long-winded" story! Fact is the coolant sensor replacement did not work - the CEL was on again the next day... (BTW: New sensor is "green", I think)

    She planned to give the VW Service Manager and VWOA an earful today - the Coolant Temp Sensor replacement appears to have been a waste of $150. VW mechanics so far are no more competent than the garage that started this snowball rolling...

    We are in agreement re: initial cause of the problem (first mechanic screwed-up!) but it is an import garage that came highly recommended by other VW owners - she'll have to make sure to correct that with appropriate word-of-mouth herself!

    I will post here when I get more info...
  • Can someone point me to a site that explains how to replace the spark plugs in a 2001 VW Jetta VR6? If it had pictures on how to do it that would be better yet. I am a novice when it comes to ths sort of thing so would appreciate any help anyone could give me. Thanks.
  • I know this msg is a little late, but i had the same problem last year, and it seemed to jerk until the engine was warmed up... there is no way to put fluid in since their supposed to """"last forever"""" finally last june my trans completely went out and only reverse would work. so what did i have to do ? spend 3000 on a new trans from VW and all they gave was a crappy 12 k warranty
  • I understand about the safe mode. When I changed my battery my radio went into that mode. I bought the car used and didn't have a manual. I got the serial number and vin number and called it in to my local VW dealer. He gave me the access code.

    I was told to push and hold two specific buttons and then then 4 blank spaces would show up. When I do, the word "SAFE" blinks six times and then stops. That is all. Nothing else. The dealership then told me to leave the key in the ignition and the radio turned on for an hour and then try again. I did that and nothing.

    Does anybody have any ideas?
  • Micki1: answer this one question for me: does your car require you to enable the seatbelts before it will start? In other words, if you unhitch the seatbelts before putting your key into the ignition, will the car not start when you try turning it on? This is not an idle question, for if you say, "Yes, my car will not start if the seatbelts are unhitched", then I suggest you have a REPUTABLE VW mechanic examine the seatbelt monitor switch located inside the the box into which the seat belt is locked (it's the box attached to the door post near your left shoulder). As a test, when driving, toggle the seat belt itself to see if there's any play. If there is, you should hear the open-door chime sound and the seat belt light flashing while the car is running. Remember: REPUTABLE VW MECHANIC ONLY!!! Anywhere else - you're wasting your time.
  • Last night while traveling from a higher altitude to a lower altitude I had to brake suddenly and very hard to avoid a deer on the road. (I include this because I haven't a clue what may have caused the following.) Soon thereafter I noticed that the temperature gauge on my '99 Jetta, normally at 190 degrees (99.9 % of the time) began dropping, until finally it stayed at the far left "cold" position, for MILES. There was no change in engine performance. I stopped for gas and when I turned the engine back on the gauge stayed at cold. Thereafter, from time to time it would return to its normal 190 position, and then suddenly drop back to cold. Speed did not seem to have any effect. This occurred numerous times over the course of a 3 hour drive.

    Today the gauge seems fine, at 190. I drove it at 65 mph for about 5 minutes, and the remainder of the driving (two hours, running errands) was normal city, street driving, 25 to 35 mph.

    I should also mention that the check engine light has been on for a few weeks, after a two month period of going on and off intermittently with again, no perceptible change of performance. This has been an ongoing problem for many months, a couple of years actually. Early on my (independent) mechanic ran the diagnostic test, concluded that there was no specific problem, and told me not to pay too much attention to it. (He knows I pay close attention to the performance of the engine.)

    Oh -- it seems impossible to be related, but my alarm system is also entirely crazy, going off if I open the doors in the wrong order, or if I place my purse on the passenger seat BEFORE putting my fanny behind the wheel. And often the buttons don't go down (or some do and some don't) when I set the alarm.

    Before I take this clearly deranged vehicle to the mechanic, can anyone enlighten me on how serious the temperature gauge fluctuation might be? Thanks!
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I had a temp guage on a Ford Contour that would sit at cold sometimes and other times bounce around. It ended up being the sending unit that was the problem.

    Just idle speculation here...since yours started acting up right after avoiding that collision, maybe the hard stop jarred something that was close to going bad and caused it to fail.
  • Had the same problem with the temp gauge on my 2000 jetta. Just replace the water temperature sender on the vehicle. It only costs about 3 or 4 bucks and can be fixed in a couple of minutes. Apparently, the originals were defective.
  • Do I need to take the auto to my mechanic or is this something that can be done by someone familier with engines?
  • mr5x5mr5x5 Posts: 8
    OK, BACK to the VW garage again this week - this time they replaced the CAT under warranty, no charges. She has actually managed to drive it 30 miles or so and the CEL is staying OFF!

    Now she wants to go back to VWOA to get a refund of the Dx check they ran that told them to replace the "coolant sensor", which turned-out to be a red herring! If I get any feedback on that I'll post a final follow-up... Hopefully we are nearing the end of the story!

    Happy Motoring!
  • first time on here and i need some help. I have a 99 jetta and its had its share of problems and i have a warranty. the first problem im having is weird, as im sitting in idle ie. drive-thru window, my gas gauge starts to go down until it gets to empty but i just filled up 20 miles ago and it'll stay like that until i turn the car off and run it for a bit. doesn't bug me but im a little worried. its been going on for a month or too.
    second started 2 weeks ago, my car was working fine, went to eat, got in to start it and it wouldn't start,not dead bat. engine was trying to turn over, after a couple times of turning the key it started up, check engine light came on. ran fine for a week, went and filled up, didnt start even after many trys. caught a ride to work, called a tow truck. the driver tried my car before he put in on the truck, it started. has started since then, until last night. it did the same thing just it was in my drive way so no tow truck. came home from work 6 hours later and it started, check engine light is on. i have an appointment to take it in this week but if i dont have to i dont want to. always loved vws but this is changing that feeling, its not as cheap and easy as a honda. im ok with a wrench but im a little hesitent to wrench on this because of the warranty from Wynn's. please if anyone has any suggestions im open for them.
  • My 2002 Turbo Jetta (automatic) stuck in 4th gear last week & nothing will change it. Starts in 4th & stays there. Runs fine but has just the one gear. The 'PRN4321' indicator on dash reversed its field at the same time. Any ideas on cause?
  • 204meca204meca Posts: 366
    I am changing the oil on my 1.8T (A4) and was not able to find the larger filter that VW/Audi now recommends -- accept at the dealer. I called the dealer & was told the smaller filter would not void the warranty, but larger one was considered better as it increases the oil capacity by about 1/2 quart.

    Anyone have part number for the appropriate larger filter in an aftermarket brand (preferably Bosch or Purolator). Thanks for the help.

    2nd question: is it really necessary to put in a new oil pan drain plug (@$2.50 a crack) for every oil change -- seems like overkill.
  • I am attempting to install a shift light on my '04 Jetta and need to connect a wire to the "tacho output" of the ECU. Any experience with accessing the ECU on a jetta, or with locating a tacho output? I have a wiring circuit diagram but it does not indicate a tacho output.
  • If you have a Jetta or Golf, a larger filter would be a waste of money. Due to the transverse-mounted engine, the sump capacity is the full 4.2 quarts. The only car the larger filter is needed is in the Passat 1.8T - since the engine is mounted longitudinally, the
    sump capacity is only 3.9 quarts. The larger filter is needed to bring the Passat's capacity to 4.2 quarts.
  • I bought my 2.5 Jetta in April after careful research and suffering through a horrible 3 year relationship with a Mazda Tribute. The first week the rear window on the drivers side would not go up automatically. When I took the car to the dealership to have the window tint completed, they forgot to fix the window. I figured I could live with it until the 5000 mile check up. Five weeks later the car had to be towed to the nearest dealership because the wire harness broke (not the dealership I purchased it from and it was a horrible experience) I went directly to VW of No America, received a good apology and they are paying for my 5000, 10000 & 20000 mile check-ups. Then at 3 months I received a recall for a bad fuel line, drove 35 miles to the purchasing dealership to have this fixed, and the window, and oops they can't fix the window they don't have the part. Now at 4 mos there is a warning light that the left rear brake light is defective and today after paying $3.05 per gallon for gas, the door on the gas tank broke. I get to drive with that for a week before they can fix it, hopefully nobody notices the free gas in my car. I called No Amer VW and will work my way to Frank Whitter, CEO, to have this car replaced. I walked away from Mazda and the crap they pulled but I won't walk away this time.
  • holy cow....sounds like you've got a lemon.
    i am looking at buying one of these, and am wondering if you did alot of
    research? and if so, did you encounter any other reports of these issues
  • I did a lot of research because with my mazda I had in the shop 6 times in less than 3 years so I was very careful about choosing the VW. My sister-n-law has a 1999 with 70k+ miles and had 1or 2 issues but after about 1year so I figured it was okay plus I stopped people in parking lots and asked them questions..still no complaints. I can tell you though until the gas tank door is fixed any gas receipts will be saved - just in case someone decides to siphon my tank.
  • I have a 2001 Jetta VW with the same problem that you described with the alarm. My mechanic cannot fix it. Did you get it fixed, what was it that was done? Thanks for your help. Jared
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