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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • eo19xxeo19xx Posts: 4
    WELL I JUST BOUGHT A 2006 VALUE EDITION JETTA. WHEN I START IT IN THE MORNING IT MAKES THIS REALLY HORRIBLE LOUD SOUND, BUT ONLY FOR ABOUT 20 SECONDS. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT THIS IS DUE TO?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    The cold start up noise is normal and is mentioned in the owners manual (boooklet 3.1, page 94...at least that is where it is in the 2005.5 manual). It says that it is noisy until oil pressure builds up in the hydraulic valve lifters.

    (and turn off your caps lock)
  • bora1bora1 Posts: 42
    The noise is normal. I get the same noise too on my 2002 Jetta. For only a few seconds while the oil pressure builds.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I agree - I think that is just the camshaft noise while the oil-pressure builds up.

    This is one reason why the pumpe-duse TDI needs that special engine-oil. The camshafts are not only working the valves.... they also operate all 4 fuel pumps.

    Using the wrong oil in the pumpe-duse TDI has been known to destroy the camshaft.
  • rbongirlrbongirl Posts: 1
    You may want to call a couple of VW dealerships and see who can give you the best price. We did that for one of the bigger services. Started at $800 and the same dealership went down to $400 after hearing what some of the other dealerships were offering ($600, $500, $450). Took some time on my behalf to call around, but we saved 50%.

    Kel
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You guys are paying WAYYYY too much for the scheduled service intervals. I just looked thru my "Jetta" file to verify what I have been paying. I have never spent more than $200 for ANY of the scheduled maintenance up thru the 50,000 one.(which was $80)

    The most expensive ones are those which include wheel rotate and balance. (Which is expected to cost more anyway)

    Now that I have replaced the tires, the tire shop (of course) offers FREE rotate and balance as long as I own their their tires.

    I also have to admit that I own the TDI engine and supply my own oil when I take in for service. (The TDI engine has lower maintenance costs as well as 56 MPG econmey)

    Personally - I cannot see why ANYONE would want anything besides the TDI engine 8-)

    HINT Dont EVER just tell them to "do the xxx mile service" - that is like telling them to do whatever they think they can get away with charging you. Instead, you should look at the owners manual and make a list of things you want them to do... and ask for JUST THOSE ITEMS.

    If you can check your OWN tire-pressire, Add your OWN windshield-washer and change your OWN windshield-wipers - why the heck would you have them do it at $65 per hour labor rate?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    The TDI engine has lower maintenance costs

    Hmm, the coupons for 20,000 mi and 40,000 mi service from local dealership say "diesels slightly higher". The 40,000 mi service includes replace spark plugs...that is probably where the higher cost comes in, I think it's a lot tougher to replace the spark plugs on a diesel ;) .
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Ahhh -- but you forget that the TDI uses SPECIAL OIL that VW charges about $7 quart ..... that is why I bring in my OWN diesel oil to have them use. I can get VW-approved oil for less than $7 quart.

    You may be correct that changing the sparkplugs adds to the price of a gasser engine... I have replaced the sparkplugs on my 2 daughters VWs - it is time-consuming to access the center 2 plugs. Again- I would not pay $65/hour for somomne to do work I can do myself.

    Most people dont dont have an alignment machine nor a tire-balancer...so those are items most of us pay to have done.

    On the TDI engine, the fuel filter is almost $50. That is the "extra cost" they may be alluding to to 20K and 40K service.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I would not pay $65/hour for somomne to do work I can do myself.

    And I'll gladly pay someone $65-95 an hour, for someone to do work that I can do myself but don't want to do. :)

    Prices vary. My 10,000 mile service...oil change (full synthetic) and tire rotation/brake inspection was about $73. The synthetic oil and filter would have cost me about $35 (6 quarts). Another local dealer wanted $120 for this.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    $120 is still a lot better than $400-$800 that previous appender was complaining about... How can the service-folks at those dealerships sleep at night knowing they are stealing from their customers like that?

    I guess that is why I dont have my own personal buisness... I am too honest. 8-)

    I have had discussions with my VW service manager about the pricing-policys of other VW dealerships. He made it a point to say that his shop ONLY charges the actual cost (parts + labor) unlike others that tend to have a preset charge for each service-interval. Mebbie that is why I drive past 2 other VW dealerships to get there 8-)
  • evoodooevoodoo Posts: 1
    Hey,

    The EPC light on my Jetta, 2001, 2L w/ 100km has just light up. The light has been on consistantly for the last couple of days. I've checked the net for help, but only find articles about EPC lights that switch on and off.

    I want to avoid bringing the car into the dealership, because I've heard stories of them just turning off the light and not necessarily fixing the issue.

    I know that the engine light will turn on if the gas covered isn't tightened securely, so is there any small issue that might be responsible for the epc light?

    Thanks

    PS- I have no problems starting or driving
  • waiwai Posts: 327
    I like to install aftermarket performance brake pad like Hawk or EBC street performance on my Jetta, but I search Tire rack web site, those only fit Jetta 1.8T or GTI but not compatible on VR6. Did anybody install any aftermarket high performance brake pad on 04 GLI(VR6)?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Are you SURE you want "high performance" brake pads? Are you aware that such brake pads dont have much braking power the first few times you use them every day? (they have to be warmed up just to start working) Also, they will tend to leave all kinds of black dust all over your wheels.

    I have first-hand experience with so called "high performance" brake pads. When you REALLY need them - like when a deer is standing on the road in front of you at night - they DO NOT WORK for several revolutions of the wheels.

    Dont get me wrong, if you are planning on racing on a track, then by all means install "high performance" brake pads. Your breaks will be warmed up when you need them under those conditions.

    You may be better off using CERAMIC-based pads. They are better than OEM -- yet do not leave black dust all over your wheels.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    But the $400-800 (and yeah $800 sounds crazy) was probably for the 40K mi service...I think that is the biggest one for VW. That one is $400-450 at the dealer I went to for 10K.

    I think most cars have something in that range at somewhere like 40-60K mi.
  • waiwai Posts: 327
    I need some street high performance like Hawk, street performance pad that gives more bite and can resist heat while consistent hard braking, Whats the difference between ceramic and composite material? Anyway my OEM pad has plenty of black dust now.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The word "composite" means "made up of different materials".... that word could be used to describe almost any brakepad on the market.

    The main difference in pads is usually "organic" or "metallic".... with "ceramic" being more like what is used on racecars. The NAPA "ceramix" is a good example of a ceramic-based pad. So is the Raybestos "QS" pad material.

    Some of the more "agressive" pad materials will wear out your rotors.

    Here is a photo of what 3 vermont winters did to a set of "powerslot" rotors.... they are junk. I now run Bendix or Raybestos rotors with NAPA "ceramix" pads.
  • waiwai Posts: 327
    Where can I buy this NAPA ceramix pads? Is VR6's brake size same as your TDI, means they are compatible.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    NAPA auto parts are available from NAPA autoparts stores.
    http://www.napaautocenter.net/
    (National Automobile Parts Associacian)

    As for you VR6 being the same as my Jetta -- I have no clue. Might I suggest you do some internet searches?

    There are many online sites you can do research... A quick 30-second search gave me the following; (HINT: look at the partnumbers to see if YOUR car has same parts as another one.)

    http://www.1stvwparts.com/
    http://www.germanautoparts.com/
    http://www.bestforeignparts.com/
    http://www.volksparts.com/A3.htm
    http://www.autopartsworld.com/volkswagen_parts.html
    http://www.dubautoparts.com/volkswagenrotors.html
  • waiwai Posts: 327
    Bpeebles, thank you for your time and help.
  • babyjet1babyjet1 Posts: 2
    Here is my problem: 03 jetta 4cyl .... runs great except every few times I stop somewhere it won't start. Sometimes it is really good and no problem... others it has to be jumped 4 or 5 times a day. Can anyone help me figure this out?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Since you said that it "has to be jumped 4 or 5 times a day." I am assuming that it starts OK when given a healthy supply of 12V power. This suggests that your battery is somehow DISCHARGING while your vehicle it parked.

    Now that we have established what the probable cause of not starting is.... YOU need to ascertain WHY your battery is discharging.

    To help you get started, look for things like the following;
    1) interiour lights left on
    2) Brakelights still on (this has been known to happen on VWs)
    3) Any other electrical components still drawing power while parked.

    Also, verify that the alternator is doing its job of CHARGING the battery.

    PS: If nothhing OBVIOUS is found, then one would have to use current-measuring devices to isolate what is draining the battery.

    SUGGESTION: Fully charge your battery for several hours on a trickle-charger once you find and resolve the problem.
  • jenezrowjenezrow Posts: 2
    i'm still having the jolting problem on my '04 jetta. keep us updated when you get your new transmission! thanks!
  • justadrmrjustadrmr Posts: 2
    I purchased a used 2000(acutally the plate says 99.5)Jetta TDI. I love(d) it. It has lost power.It got to were it would not accelerate even on flat ground. I have changed the MAF,cleaned the inner cooler,cleaned the egr,new garrett turbo with new intake, cleaned exhaust system and no codes come up on the computer. Now the car will accelerate a litte. You have to get it up to 3k rmps, let off the gas pedal for it to shift and so on. So pulling out into traffic or freeway driving is non existant.The tranny has been check and is working correctly. Now the mechanic is telling MAYBE it's the injection pump. I am really getting sick of this process of elimination game. Does anyone have any ideas? I really do love the car.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    If you do not want to be guessing - try
    VAGCOM
  • aaron6aaron6 Posts: 1
    I just had my rear brake pads and front rotors replaced on my 2001 Jetta VR6, when I went to pick up my car the "mechanic" asked me why the window wouldn't roll up, I told him I have no idea because I have never had a problem with the windows rolling up or down. He said he took it for a test drive this morning to test the brakes and he rolled down the window, and now it will not roll up, none of the windows will roll down and the one he rolled down is stuck. He does not know what happened, nor can he fix it. Does anyone know if there could be any kind of link between the brake job and the windows??
  • mpc170mpc170 Posts: 1
    Hi,
    Made a sad attempt to change the oil in my 2002 jetta and turned a plug on the bottom (used allen wrench) to empty the bin. Turned out it wasnt the oil pan. The oil pan was to the right (looking up at the chassis from underneath) which I later realized and emptied. But whatever I emptied looked like oil but not exactly sure what it is or how to replace it. Car engine runs but transmission doesnt seem to catch and make car go. I dont think it trans. fluid since its not redish. Any ideas. Appreciate it.
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    Well.... how much fluid did you remove? Seems like it has to be transmission fluid if the car doesn't "catch". Did you check the transmission dipstick level? If it is showing no fluid, then pour it back in. Be sure you filter out any dirt that may have gotten mixed in.
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    I may have posted too soon...my apologies... apparently the Jetta doesn't have a dipstick for the auto transmission. You will likely need to visit the dealer for service. :cry: Apparently they don't think the consumer has any reason to service the transmission. Unbelieveable.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    They use synthetic trans fluid, supposed to be good for the "life of the vehicle".

    "Apparently they don't think the consumer has any reason to service the transmission"

    I guess if you know what you are doing you can service your own transmission, same as with any other car. :)
  • eguilbeaueguilbeau Posts: 1
    the same thing JUST happened to me....it was a faulty brake light switch. When it would act up the brake lights wouldnt work when I pressed on the pedal, but would stay on all night long. It drained my battery and I had to jump it every time I got in it but the battery kept registering 12v. I havent had any problems with it since.
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