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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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  • Well, I finally took the car to a mechanic that spent an insane amount of time diagnosing the problem, switching out parts and testing every wire and pump in sight. Final diagnoses: Distributor. Not the distributor cap and other miscellaneous parts - the distributor itself, which he has offered to replace with used parts. I'm banking on the car NOT doing this again within the next couple years and the used part holding out.

    I have not received the car back yet to give it a full endorsement, but I'm too excited to have my car back after a near-month of this headache. I just had to update.
  • cwimmer77cwimmer77 Posts: 1
    I did try this and it worked right away. Its a little anoying just waiting for the radio to turn off again. Does anyone know if the same thing with the fuse happens if the radio is replaced by an aftermarket radio? Thanks for the fuse #42 info.
  • patkelly7patkelly7 Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my 2000 Jetta. The dealership acts like they have never heard of this problem before and claims not to be able to replicate the problem. Has anyone figured out what the fix is for this problem. The dealership said the fluid was low, but as soon as I left the dealership I put the car in reverse and it had the same problem, the car revved like it was in reverse with no movement. Please help.
  • fritzlerfritzler Posts: 1
    Hi Sean, my 2000 TDI is behaving exactly like yours did... what did you end up doing?Was it the MAF sensor? Cant afford to take it to VW, hoping you can offer some advice.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Dont be so hasty about not going to a VW dealersip. You may be eligible for the MAF Extended warantee.

    It is also likely that your intake plemum is plugged up. This tends to happen if TDI is "babied" combined with some other factors.
  • tveinottetveinotte Posts: 3
    When I purchased this car for my daughter,it seemed to work
    perfect. When we arrived home & let the car sit for a couple
    of hours , started the engine noticed blue & black smoke.
    smoke only lasts moments , then the engine runs smooth & the smoke is gone.She has been driving the car of 6 months & love's it.
    I have changed the plugs,cap&rotor, air filter, oil& filter (twice).Used good grade high milage oil . There is a
    lot of sluge in the engine,& changing the oil does not seem
    to be removing it. I also found a plastic moulded hose connected from what I think is the PCV valve to the valve cover that was cracked. I replace the hose but the engine still smokes on start-up ONLY sometimes . The engine uses
    very little oil ,does not use any anti-freeze. Seems a little sluggish in first gear but once you are in second gear & up the car has lots of power.Checked the compression , all cylinder are even @ 170 lbs. The catlic converter has
    a rattle , I am wondering if this could cause the oxygen sensor to not work proverly . The car is hard on gas & seems to be running rich. Any one know there the PCV Valve
    is located on a 2 liter or any ideas on the problem.

    Father needs help
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,588
    This sounds like a textbook case of worn valve guides or old and hard valve stem seals---which makes sense given the high mileage of the car and condition of the oil.

    Basically oil left on the top of the engine after it shuts off then leaks down through the valve stem seals or worn guides and drips onto the tops of the pistons. When the car is started, this oil is burned off, and then the engine smooths out and burns cleaner.

    This can be fixed but given the mileage on the engine, I wouldn't do correct surgery at this point, but rather live with it if you can.

    MODERATOR

  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    hard on gas, poor power... catalytic convertor?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,588
    nah, because it would run WORSE at higher speeds, not better, right, if the catalytic were clogged. As for being hard on gas, who knows with that high mileage what's up with that....you'd need to do a careful fuel consumption test to see if the car is in spec or not.

    I guess you could run a catalytic by-pass test pipe for a day and see how that works.

    You could test for bad valve stem seals by driving to the top of a hill, then driving downhill with your foot off the gas...this creates high vacuum and should suck oil through the worn seals or guides....now, being very careful and aware of traffic ahead and behind, PUNCH the gas and observe if there is a cloud of blue smoke behind you at that point.

    MODERATOR

  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    you suggested a good test.

    actually, i was thinking that a clogged cat would result in loss of power and increased consumption... harder to get uphill.

    i imagine a cat convertor death spiral: too much fuel, nukes the cat some, modifies the back pressure, causes more fuel to be consumed, possibly more cat damage and so on and so on.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,588
    Well you know, when you hit 176K, which is just about the normal life span for most cars, you can get all kinds of weird things going on that defy normal run of the mill problem-solving. Maybe a computer scan would at least give you a place to hang your hat and begin a proper diagnostic. Where it gets tricky is when you have more than one thing going on, or when the REAL problem throw a code to the symptom, rather than the disease---such as "faulty 02 sensor". Question then becomes, well, what is causing the 02 sensor to freak out?

    If I had to take a wild guess, and knowing Jettas, I'd suspect badly worn or corroded fuel injectors for openers.

    MODERATOR

  • bora1bora1 Posts: 42
    Sorry to "burst your bubble" Jeff. The new DSG 6-speeds are NOT from Japan; but rather from the good ol' USA. They are manufactured by Borg-Warner; an American company. The 5-speed tipronic transmissions were manufactured by Delphi (a spin-off of General Motors).
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    What bubble :confuse: .

    I was not refering to the DSG. The conventional 6 speed automatic is from Japan. This is according to our window sticker. I had also indicated who the manufacturer is, according what I have read. This was related to someone stating that VW has had problematic transmissions, so I was wondering if those were from a different source.

    So anyway, it does sound like they did change suppliers if the previous automatics were from Delphi.
  • sleepingsleeping Posts: 1
    I am Korean
    1999 jetta rebuilted car..
    may be second holding..
    R is Ok.
    D is some problem.
    RPM is rise when I push the accelerator but when I remove my foot speed is down too fast with RPM.
    diagnosis tell transmission problem.
    but transsion shope don't.
    what do i do?.
  • emilywemilyw Posts: 2
    What does the MIL light mean when it comes on?
  • craigracraigra Posts: 2
    There is no durability with this car. If you want reliability, look elsewhere. My ownership experience with a 99 Jetta VR6 was miserable. In 7 years I spent over $5,000 on repairs alone. This excludes normal maintenance. Recently, the throttle control module went out, and it would have been $1,100 to fix. Finally drew the line and bought a Honda.

    But here's the thing - even with an automatic, this car was silly fun to drive. It was both my best and my worst car.

    A VW requires acceptance of high repair & maintenance cost and a AAA Plus membership.
  • eo19xxeo19xx Posts: 4
    MIL=MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT.
  • emilywemilyw Posts: 2
    Yes I know that but what is wrong with the car and how big of a problem is it?
  • eo19xxeo19xx Posts: 4
    THE MIL WHEN ON (NOT FLASHING) MEANS THAT THE ECU HAS DETECTED SOME FAULT THAT MAY AFFECT EMISSIONS. IT COULD ALSO BE A O2 SENSOR, LOOSE GAS CAP, OR MALFUNCTIONING COLLING SYSTEM. IF IT FLASHES WHILE DRIVING IT COULD DAMAGE THE CAT CONVERTER SO I SUGGEST GETTING IT CHECK OUT ASAP.
  • tveinottetveinotte Posts: 3
    User 777

    Thanks for the ideas, I am going to clean or replace the pcv
    valve & run some engine cleaner through to clean up the sluge.Reading the manual I have suggests that a falty EVAP
    purge valve will cause an over rich problem. The tail pipe
    is always black with oil residue & soot. But the engine burns
    very little oil. I read how to check the evap valve , going to try that. Hard to get any work done on the car, does not
    stop much.
  • :cry: My poor VW Jetta (91') She is so sick, she needs a brain... I am hoping that someone has some idea where I can get her a brain without having to go to the "Land of OZ"...I am sure that the "Wizard of Oz" could help but I need expert help here....Anyone got any Leads? By the Way I am located in SC......
    Thanks :sick:
  • pruzinkpruzink Posts: 112
    There was a problem with the power window clips around this vintage Jetta. VW had switched to plastic clips which had a very high failure rate. VW has a voluntary replacement program for up to 7 years and will fix this problem at no charge. I am very surprised that the mechanic was not aware of this.
  • pruzinkpruzink Posts: 112
    When your engine gets up in the miles, consider swtching to the "max life" oils. They are esther based oils that can help swell the oil seals around valve guides to cut down on oil burned. As I approach 100K miles on my vehicles I switch to these types of motor oils. I like the Valvoline Max Life Synthetic 5W-30, when I started using it on one of my high mileage vehicles I found it cut my oil consumption in half.
  • jrm3jrm3 Posts: 1
    On a VW Jetta GL (1992) the clutch was slipping because I dumped some antifreeze down the timing hole. I removed what I thought was a clutch drain which turned out to be the reverse shaft securing bolt. After driving for about a half an hr fluid poured from the hole. Anyways the bolt now hits a hard stop (doesn't thread). Is this because something needs to be aligned?

    Is there any way of aligning and installing the bolt w/out disassembly?

    Many thanks,
    JRM3
  • Hi Guys, I'm the owner of a 2000 Jetta GLS with a constant check engine light illumination. I just drove it back from South FL to Central New York. New York requires vehicle inspection and takes it VERY seriously. With a check engine light illuminated, the vehicle will automatically fail inspection. My temporary inspection has expired and here is my dilemma:

    I took it to a mechanic to get hooked up to the computer, he immediately got:

    1- Cylinder ONE misfire
    2- Gas cap not secured

    I had them clear the computer and delete the code.

    I then drove it home to NY. While driving the light came back on. I took it to another mechanic and hooked it up to the computer. This is what I got:

    1- Throttle Control Arm

    I had him clear it, and drove it and it came back on.

    I took it to a third mechanic and he got:

    CODE P1128- Unknown.

    I looked up the P1128 code, and its a Gas problem. My question is, could this be a faulty computer? I have NEVER got the same code twice. I don't have the $$ to make many repairs, so I'm a little concerned about this. Thank-you.
  • Okay. Here's a two-parter for a 95 Jetta GL...

    First I had a coolant leak. Was putting in coolant about once a week. Would often find a big puddle under my car.

    Then the leak stopped.

    Then, in what I thought was an unrelated incident, the car made a dinging noise and flashed the oil light. I assumed it needed oil and put some in. The next day, I checked the oil dipstick and saw that there was way too much oil in there.

    I am having someone drain the oil down to the correct level tonight. But I'm wondering...

    Why else would the oil light and dinging kick in?
    Is it related to the coolant leak or mysterious leak stop?

    Once I have the oil out, do you think it's safe enough to drive until next friday when I can afford to have a mechanic take a look???

    Please speak in layman's terms. THANKS.
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    What engine is this and how long have you owned this car? Make sure gas cap sealing surfaces are not damaged and are free of dirt. Always go five clicks to insure adequate seal. I've also heard Jetta owners complain that letting the fuel get low can trip the light. What repair are the mechanics recommending to solve this problem?
  • This is the 4 Cylinder/2.0 Liter Manual TRAN Engine. The gas cap light was correct because there was no gas cap at the time. Thank you for thre response, I don't know what else to do.
  • smac3rdsmac3rd Posts: 2
    :) its the secondary air pump doing its job untill the cat is warm.....very normal sound
  • smac3rdsmac3rd Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 1/2 jetta GLS, 85k mileage. recently the speedometer began to fluctuate, not getting a accurate mileage reading, reads less than the actual. car has the 4 speed auto transmission. any feed back would be great.

    Thanx
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