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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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  • My poor little car, I love it so. The A/C drain is clogged up with nasty leaves, and now the water dumps out from underneath the glove compartment down on to the carpet. :cry: Is there a cheap easy way I can clean out the mess that's clogged up this drain without having to take it into a mechanic? I have other more important things for the mechanic to look at for me! Is there a website where I can find the schematic or diagram of the engine of my car so Hubby can do this stuff for me? Thanks to any and everyone who aids me in my life long quest to be lazy and cheap! :shades:
  • ziplockziplock Posts: 5
    Thank you that is very helpful. I'll try the additive. The car has been through 4 (four) master cylinders since purchase. This does not count the one the car came with. I guess it is time to research ABS accumulator. While the brakes are marginally better than when purchased the sinking pedal does not seem right. Thank you again.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    if you kindly ask a shop with an air compressor to give it a blast of compressed air up the evap drain line, you can give them a little tip for their time.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Your cold-startup noises may be the valvetrain before the oil-pressure builds up. Hydrolic lash adjusters need oil-pressure to do their job. VW engines have made this sound for at least 15 years. (ever sense VW change over from solid lifters to hydrolic lifters)

    I know that some vehicles make "gulping" sounds when the level in the fueltank is at a point where one can hear the sloshing of the fuel within the tank. Perhaps that is what your are hearing?

    Relax - you are "learning" the sounds that your new car makes. They will become commonplace background sounds as you get accoustomed to them.

    You should be concentrating on performing a good break-in of your new engine so it will give you many years of trouble-free service. Now is the time you should be concensencly thinking about your new engine as you drive and how best to wear-in the moving parts. This includes occasional bursts of full-throttle accelleration followed by coasting so the rings seat well. (and never EVER use cruze-control while breaking in a new engine)
  • conessconess Posts: 15
    Thank you for the feedback. It definitely calmed my nerves. On a side note, any recommendations on breaking the engine in? I am currently at 500 miles and to this point haven't gone over 65mph. I try to keep the speed changing and never put the car in cruise control or even at a constant speed. I plan on doing this until after about 1K miles.
  • jessyjessy Posts: 4
    I really feel like the girl who cried wolf here.
    I have had my jetta 2.5 for a month, lux package, NAV. I love it except I am getting about 257 miles per tank. I have around 950 miles on car so far.
    The service guy told me not to bring it in, this is normal as the cars break in. But seeing as it is leased and I only have 10,000 miles per yr, I do not have the patience and feel the jerk should give me gas money.
    No one else I know with a VW seems to be able to relate to this. Can anyone relate or share some wisdom?
    Thanks so much!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    It sounds as if you are already doing a good job of break-in. The first 500 miles or so are CRITICAL as some of the moving parts have a pretty tight fit and can overheat from friction before they are burnished-in. As the microscopic high-spots are worn down, the engine will loosen-up.

    I still contend that after about 1000 miles, it is good to use occasional bursts of full-throttle accelleration followed by coastdown. The accelleration forces the piston rings to seat against the cylinder walls. The coastdown, allows the rings to "float" and also makes sure things cool off a bit.

    You will find that the MPG will increase for up to 20,000 miles as compression builds and the moving parts get burnished in. Also, well-seated rings will reduce the chances of ending up with an engine that consumes oil.

    If the cylinder walls get "glazed" before the rings seat, it is almost impossible to get the rings to seat. An engine in this condition can have low MPG and burn oil for its entire lifetime.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I don't know anything about this, but have read that all this ring seating and such is no longer something to concern youself with on today's engines. We just followed what the owner's manual said to do, when ours was new.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You are correct that todays manufacturing methods can put a much better finish on the cylinder walls. But folks that actually MEASURE the compression of their engine at regular intervals can attest that there is still some ring-sealing going on for many thousand miles.

    Thus, any behavior that consencesly helps the rings seal is benifecial to MPG and engine life.

    The owners manual break-in process is basically some guidelines to help non-technical folks not destroy their new engine. This protects the AUTOMAKERS from having to replace an engine under warantee that was trashed due to poor break-in. It is not really intended to provide a complete guide for best engine performance.

    Personally, I expect more from my automobiles than many folks. A minimum of 12 years and 150,000 miles of service. I also like the >55 MPG that my TDI is now giving me. I know that careful break-in has contributed to this. With todays fuel prices, it is nice to get over 650 miles per tankful.

    I also know folks that have to add oil to their engine regularly. I NEVER have to add any oil between the 10,000 mile oil-changes. Again, this can be traced to a carful break-in when the engine was new.
  • tmvp24tmvp24 Posts: 2
    Hey all! So, a friend of mine has been trying to do the computerized diagnostic on my 98 Jetta. Apparently it is not in plain view or in any of the obvious places. I would appreciate if anyone knows where to hook up the computer, I would appreciate it. Thanks
  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    Your car is still very new. Wait another couple of thousand miles and see if your MPG improves.

    What kind of driving do you do? City/Highway? When you fill up your car after going 257 miles, how many gallons does it take to fill up the tank?
  • I don't know about the new ones, but if you are having electrical problems now, then I think it may be a good idea to get out while you can.

    my 01 1.8t has had electrical issues since the day I bought it. In fact the north american vw plant has gotten various final warnings to fix their electrical issues or be shut down. My vehicle is currently in the shop, and has been for the past 2 wks, with more than $2000 in electrical problems, all of them recurring issues (been replaced once or twice before). It has had electrical problems since it was 40 days old. GET OUT while you can. Some vws run great, but it has been my experience (and many others) that the ones that have electrical issues will have them for the rest of their lives.
  • I have the same car, and had the exact same problem for more than a year and a half. After 2000 in false repairs, I let it go until it finally died on me. The problem was this, there were two different sensors out: the crank shaft sensor, which detects the position of the wheels while the vehicle is driving was shorted. Also, the air flow meter had a faulty sensor which caused the vehicle to alternately have to rich and too lean an oxygen supply to the fuel system. Eventually this led to needing a new fuel pump relay, and six months later a new fuel pump.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Computer connector is under the steering wheel above your left ankle when you are sitting in the drivers seat. I have used my VagCom on so many VWs that I can plug into the connector in the dark without even looking.
  • tmvp24tmvp24 Posts: 2
    That is the first place he looked. Doesn't seem to be there. Should he look harder or would the 98 Jetta GL have it located someplace else? Thanks again.
  • ziplockziplock Posts: 5
    Back to Jetta brake problems. Does anyone else out there have spongy brakes on the Jetta with a slow fade to about an inch from the floor. When I'm at a three minute light I have to pump the brakes up. Had a VW tech drive and brake the car and he says this is normal and that it is a frequent complaint of Jetta owners. (It is on its forth maser cylinder.) Anyone else. Seems odd that you would have to loose control of the car in order to regain control. Thanks bpeebles. I don't think I'm crazy and I'm running out of options. He also told me that the booster cylinder has to be "matched" with the master cylinder. Anyone ever heard of that?
  • waiwai Posts: 327
    My neighbour's daugther has a 05 Jetta 2.0 L auto with about 15,000 miles, he complaint that the brake is not grabbing that good, the dealership change the master cyclinder under warranty. So far my 04 GLI (with a bigger front disc rotor than yours) has no problem after 23,300 miles.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,615
    Find a new mechanic. This sounds like nonsense and is his wawy of saying "I don't know".

    If your pedal is sinking you have something wrong in the brake hydraulics. It's supposed to be a closed system under high pressure, so pressure is being lost somewhere. It's the mechanics job to find out where. I really doubt that thousands upon thousands of Jetta owners are pumping their brakes at stoplights as we speak. A clever mechanic could have isolated the master cylinder and tested it by now.

    MODERATOR

  • I just took my 05 Jetta in because it has been shutting off right away in the morning.. by the way, my car has 14,000 miles on it ..when i get it started the second time, it "chuggs" the first mile or so, when I am in first gear pulling into traffic, it doesn't want to go..it does this about 3 to 4 times a week..I took it to VW dealership since it is under warranty..they couldn't duplicate the problem and no codes came up..I took it back down a week later and left it there for a week until they noticed it did the same thing in the a.m. when starting..here is what they found:
    system was not holding fuel pressure so i got a new fuel pump. the air temp sensor shorted because the mass air flow sensor failed.got a new one of those.. coolant temp sensor shorted, so i needed a new one of those...My question is this..I have seen so many messages saying how vw is unhelpful and i have experienced it myself..when i got my car back, the very next day my car shut off again after starting it and now the epc light is on...they told me to bring it down..i did, and then i had to get a rental car.as i was at the rental car place, vw called me and said nevermind...we cannot fix it anymore, there is nothing else wrong with it...she said i could bring it back in one week, because that is when the head manager person will be there..she gave me some cockamamy reason about the cost of fuel on the east coast and since it was only happening in the morning, then oh well...(i had to put my flashers on to avoid being hit because i coudnt drive in first gear..it only chugged)..what am i supposed to do now? i can see this is a commom problem, to give people the run around..i am not going to put up with it..the car has 14,000 miles on it and should not have needed new anything!!it is highly inconvenient and annoying and new cars shouldn't do this..what do i tell them? what is really the problem? why don't they want to fix anything?? any help is greatly appreciated! :confuse:
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    The OBD connection is located inside the small rectangular access panel right above the cigarette lighter. Just pop out that panel and you will see the connection (I have a 1997 Jetta)...

    HTH :shades:
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    The OBD connection is located inside the small rectangular access panel right above the cigarette lighter (the far right-hand panel on the same row as the A/C switch, window defogger, etc.). Just pop out that panel and you will see the connection (I have a 1997 Jetta)...

    HTH :shades:
  • The history: I bought a 2001 Jetta a year ago and now the Speedo/Odo has quit working. I brought it into Lithia and they told me I would need a new cluster. They said that would run me about $1200 (including labor, etc.). I could in no way afford that (All inclusive warranty doesn't cover the instrument cluster - First Extended Sevice Corp.). I figured I would try to find one on my own and replace it. There are a few on Ebay.

    Now the problems:

    1. I failed smog because the speedo doesnt work. So now I need to fix it right away in order to register the vehicle.
    2. The smog report says the speed sensor is shot.
    3. The Dealer (Lithia) says its the cluster.
    4. They also say I cant just use another cluster. It wont come on. They say that I will need a new ECM or find a cluster that matches my ECM. They also say that the Odometer will be permanently screwed up.

    Is it really that complicated to fix? There is no way I can come up with 1200 bucks by the end of the month when my registration expires. Lithia is pretty much the only game in town for VW's so I am afraid that they may have me over a barrel. I did not buy the Jetta from Lithia but the used dealer I bought it from only fixes what is covered on the warranty.

    Any information on what my options are would be greatly appreciated.

    Thank-you, EJM
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Lets just say we all hope your problem is the "speed sensor".

    The cluster is electronically "keyed" to the engine computer and your keyfobs (it is the cluster that "reads" the keyfob when you start engine.) Replacing the cluster may be a HUGE deal... or you may get lucky.

    Perhaps it is time to find somone with a VAGCOM and do some diagnostics.

    BTW: Why the heck do people purchase extended warantees if they dont cover the common failure problems? I have NEVER purchsed an extended warantee and instead put the $$ in the bank incase my car breaks. If it does not break... I get to KEEP the $$ towards the purchase of my next car....After doing this for about 20 years.... I will soon be able to pay CASH for my next vehicle if I want.
  • This was the first time I bought from a dealer. I understand things like the battery not being covered but never would have imagined this. I have never even heard of a cluster needing to be completely relaced and why it isnt a stand alone unit completely mystifies me. On the plus side, in the first year, the warranty did cover the water pump, thermostat and starter which have all been replaced. Although that does make me question whether I will ever own another VW. I bought it at 48K and am now at 51K miles so I'm not tearing the thing up.

    What do you mean by getting lucky? Do I have a chance in that or is it pretty slim odds (like finding another vehicle with the exact same programming.)? I ask only because I'm that desperate. I can't afford to be off the road and can probably get a 1 month fix-it permit but eventually will have to cough up the money if I can't find an alternate solution. I called the service center at Lithia and they suggested I sell it or trade it in. For a broken Speedo?!
  • dome625dome625 Posts: 5
    Well I've had a similar problem. I own a 2001 Jetta, and about a year ago I started having problems with the brakes, ever so often when I go to brake I either hear a sound like a spring popping or a faint grinding noise. I have to pump the brakes pretty hard in order for it to clear. I've taken it in to a mechanic and they coulnd't find anything wrong. And while getting other repairs done at a VW dealership I asked them to look at it and again was told they couldn't find anything. All I know is if I'm going about 5 MPH and trying to brake that's when it happens.
  • dome625dome625 Posts: 5
    Can anyone help me out with this. I have a 2001 Jetta that has started having problems with turn signals, when I go to turn them on, they work for a while and then start click irratically and sometimes they even just stop working. Then after a few seconds they start working. I've called a VW dealership and was told that I may have a faulty relay. Does anyone know where I can find the relay box?
  • pannellpannell Posts: 3
    Just got my son this Jetta, only 50k miles, nice car. He put a cold air intake on it, ran great for about a week then started it the other day and the idle is just racing up and down, it runs good at 2000 to 3000rpm but as soon as you let the peddle go back to idle just has this loping from 700rpm to 1200rpm then it will shut off. We checked the intake line and is tight, no leaks. Any suggestions. :confuse:
  • conessconess Posts: 15
    Possibly a bad O2 sensor? My little brothers car did that and he had to have the sensor replaced (his car was a Mazda 626 though).
  • The battery in my 2001 Volkswagen Jetta, 4 cylinder, 2.0L, died this week. I purchased a compatible battery from a local auto shop and replaced it. The car starts up fine and runs the same as it did before the battery died. However, a few other problems popped up. The radio now doesn’t work at all. The 2001 Jetta has a safeguard feature that requires the radio to be “unlocked” after the battery is replaced – but nothing shows up on the screen at all. I checked fuses (that I believe are) associated with the radio, but can’t find one that is blown. I took many fuses out and put them back in, with no avail.

    Also, the clock and the digital trip odometer do not stay set. For instance, I set the clock and when I turn off the car and then turn it on again, it returns to 12:00 and the trip meter is back to 0.0. If I turn the car off for just a few seconds and restart, the numbers stay. But if I wait more than 30 seconds and restart, all is lost.

    I thought that this could be an alternator problem. But I followed an alternator test (taking the negative electrode off the battery for more than a minute and the engine continued to run), and it worked fine.

    Ever heard of anything like this? Any suggestions for me to fix it myself? I’m at a loss…

    Thanks for any help you can provide!
  • jaimeejaimee Posts: 1
    Hello! I just leased a 2006 Jetta 2.5. I'm averaging about 70% city and 30% highway miles and have only been able to get about 15.5mpg. Does that seem a bit low to anyone else? I've filled up about 6 or 7 times since the car left the lot. Any insight would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
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