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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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  • polannypolanny Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Jetta GT that will not go into park so steering wont lock and cant remove key. Tried moving steering and pushing shift lever.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,837
    Sounds like the shift interlock solenoid, located in the center console. Unless you are mechanically inclined, this might be time for a tow truck.

    MODERATOR

  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    You need a special tool that attaches to fuel filter tube stem, once it is pressed down inside the fuel line quick connect retainer tab, it will spread the tabs and allow the quick connect to separate from fuel filter stem. You may be able to spread the locking tabs with a small flat blade screw driver. Sears sells the tool that has mutiple tube size adapter for about $10.

    If you have never done this befoer, you could break one of the retainer locking tabs with screw driver. Be gentle and patient.

    Joe
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    After laboring over buying a Jetta, I ended up buying a 2001 5 speed with 2.0L engine.

    Where do I go for VW OEM parts like extra remote, gear shift booth, and large plastic under engine cover. There must be a VW dealer with website that sells stuff at lower than our local VW retailer.

    Thanks,
    Joe
  • gehad3003gehad3003 Posts: 1
    I had jetta 99 (new body style) which gone into an accident. The car was hit in the front left tire. The airbags and the seatbelts were deployed. A mechanic fixed just the tire so I can drive it and it worked just fine. he changed ball joint, control arm, sway bar, and tie rod end. I drove the car for about a week. Now, the problem is when I start the car it dies right away except if I press down the gas. I can start the car and immediately press the gas and drive it. I also was able to drive the car with this situation but the rpm is low (about 500).

    by the way, the mechanic was thinking about changing the strut mount but he said it might be not necessary. And, it seems that the battery goes off once i try to start the engine because the car goes without electricity for a while after i try to start the engine for the first time.
  • kenadelekenadele Posts: 3
    2001 VW Jetta. Just how difficult is it to re-wire the front oxygen sensor, or should I pay the extra $100 and get the one with the plug connector?
  • I have been searching through the threads for a while and have gotten very confused on what this issue could be. My car Bought today used from Canada is surging and bucking. I went to my mechanics house and got the following codes

    P1550 Idle Peed control auxilary inputs
    and
    P0303 Cylinder 3 misfire

    could the injector 3 be faulty and need replacing? What doers the first code mean? My mechnic works primarily on gasoline cars and he wasn't sure but thought that replacing the injector 3 would be a good start. The other question is what is the firing order so I know which injector 3 is. I think it's 1-3-4-2 from left to right when standing at the hood looking towards the windshield is that correct?

    Thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    From your discription, I would think the idle problem may be caused by the misfiring. The "Idle Speed Controller" would have a tough time doing its job when a cylinder is misfiring.

    I beleive that ONLY cylinder#3 is monitored by the computer... so it is the ONLY one that can flag a problem. You will see that the injector for that cylinder is the ONLY one with the monitor-wire attached.

    Also, consider doing a compression-test to make certain the valves are all sealing properly. Lets hope you do not have a mechanical problem like a bent valve.

    It is also possible that your IP (Injection pump) is malfunctioning.
  • jnoe35773jnoe35773 Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 2004 VW Jetta, and I haven't even had it two weeks yet and the EPC/ESP and Traction Lights are all coming on. I took it to VW, and they ran all the codes on it. They first told me it looks like it needs a throttle body but before they replaced that they wanted to clean the throttle body to see if that wouldn't clear up the code, which it did. About 3 hours later all the lights came back on again, so I had to run it back down to VW. They then told me that they thought it was the pedal position, and they wanted to get another pedal from another 2004 Jetta with the same engine and see if that didn't clear up the code, so they did that. The codes still came on after they did that. Now they are thinking that it might be the engine control module (ECM), and that part alone runs from $700.00- $1100.00 plus labor. They called me the next morning and said they would like their "main tech" to look at it and see if it might be a wiring issue or something like that before they replaced anything. I'm now thinking that they don't even know what's wrong with my car. I have been reading a lot of problems with the ECP light on this website, and it doesn't look like there is a solution to this problem. If anyone has had this problem and has found a solution, please pass it on to me so that I don't have to invest a lot of money that I don't have into this darn car. I'm really upset about all of this because we haven't even had the car 2 weeks yet. Thanks so much.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,837
    Actually it sounds like your dealer is doing a very good job of trying to solve the problem for you and isn't just throwing parts at it and wasting your money. I'd suggest you work with the dealer, keep in good communication and see what they have to say. Everything they did so far makes sense to me. Modern cars can be a devil to repair. There is, in fact, no "computer" that tells the mechanic the exact problem--only the circuit/system that is in distress.

    MODERATOR

  • my 95 jetta 2.0 started bucking and loosing power, so i decided to change the fuel filter. i double checked i put it on right, and i did, but now it wont start, my buddy said it might be a vaccumm leak so i replaced all the hoses on the top side of the engine, and now the only way it will stay idling is if we pull the throttle out...but she still idles rough, and when i went to start her yesterday, she would stay running...any suggestions? fuel pump? spark plug cable? is it possible that im not running on all 4 cylinders? im dead with out my baby what do i do?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,837
    Well maybe the factory tech is now what a line mechanic used to be at a dealership. We do know that there's a big talent shortage at most dealerships. If you are THAT smart, why work on cars? (good question).

    Quite frankly, if a line mechanic spent the time you do in carefully diagnosing and repairing the problem, I mean with that level of deliberateness, they'd probably fire him for being too slow. :P Some dealers can be slave drivers.

    I didn't get the impression they were charging him for all the time they were spending. Maybe I misread it.

    This is why I like independent shops. The highly competent ones will approach the diagnosis differently than a line mechanic at a dealership who is under the gun to perform. Also these shop owners are invested with a sense of ownership and reputation.

    MODERATOR

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I agree with you... if a dealship tech were to take the deliberate time to actually DIAGNOSE each problem... the dealership would be selling less parts and getting fewer cars thru the shop each day.

    That is why I have migrated from fixing computers (the kind you walk inside) to developing software to earn a living. Now, I just fix cars, TVs and other electronic devices for fun. (because it does not pay the bills to do it for a living and be honest at the same time.) I just could not bring myslef to sell somone $200 of parts if they only need a component lubricated. (like a trunk latch for example)

    On the other hand, some folks would argue that they want their car fixed FAST and not be charged a lot for labor. This approach would mean a tech should just replace all suspect parts as fast as he can. (and hope he fixes the problem)

    Somtimes, you end up paying either way.... labor one way -or- parts the other way.

    Each approach has its pluses/minuses and either of them could be the less-costly.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    some folks would argue that they want their car fixed FAST and not be charged a lot for labor.

    And in particular, they probably do not want to be charged for a lot of diagnostic labor.
  • johnjm1johnjm1 Posts: 1
    I hope this helps someone, because when I was looking for the answer no one posted their fix! All it takes is a few minutes to create a post and cut/paste it to several forums. Let others know what worked for you! Please post solutions too, not just questions!

    I purchased a 1999 VW Jetta. Speedometer & Tachometer didn't work. Tach sat at zero... speedo "bounced" on zero. Odometer, cruise control, and all other gauges worked fine.

    I removed the instrument cluster. It's really simple, a couple of plastic covers, the light switch, and four screws. It was MUCH easier than removing the gauges from my F150!

    I opened the speedometer and found no servicable parts. Some posts will tell you there is a gear inside that is stripped. That may be the case, but I didn't want to risk breaking anything else!

    I found DNA Speedometers by searching the internet. They're in Tamp, FL. I packaged the gauges and shipped it allong with a check for $129. Turn around time was GREAT! The received it, fixed it, shipped it back. That's it. I didn't have to call or send nasty emails... nothing. They litterally turned it around in one day! Round trip took a whole week... that's UPS ground!

    When it arrived I installed it and took it for a test drive. It worked like a champ. They even replaced the blown bulb in it. DNA Speedometers even garauntees their work for six months!

    There are other places on the internet that repair speedos... I went with this one and had a GREAT experience.

    (Posted 6/26/2008)
  • buzzdogbuzzdog Posts: 1
    can anyone help me to get my glovebox out and my new one in??i bought the car and thehandle and lock were missing on the glovebox..i bought a new one $117.00 at dealership. i have three screws out along the bottom out side and three out inside the glovebox but i cant get it to come out..the two hinges at the bottom are holding it...anybody know what else is holding it in????any help will be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance...
  • samsawaysamsaway Posts: 1
    Let me preface this discussion with the fact that I know little to nothing about cars. Which I guess would explain why, on the tight budged I have (read: no money), I was "smart" enough to purchase a VW. Which I still owe quite a bit of money on.

    ANYWAY. I have a 98 VW Jetta K2. It has about 125000 miles on it. I drove it from Wisconsin to Connecticut, but before I did so I had an oil change and had it checked out. The mechanic told me I had a coolant leak and that my transmission may have some problems, but that it'd be ok for my trip. That was about a year ago. Since then I had one mechanic look at it after it overheated and broke down (scary!), and he suggested I use a coolant stop leak system and keep some coolant in my car. So that's what I've been doing. Because I can't really afford repairs.

    However, my car has been running like crap. It has barely been accelerating, and today it overheated and started smoking and coolant spewed everywhere and was dripping out under my car onto the road. I didn't know what to do, so I called a couple people who know cars, and they suggested I put water into the coolant tank just so I could get the car home. I did this, but noticed that as I was driving home my power steering wasn't working.

    Does anyone know what any of this means, or if it's something I can have fixed by someone other than an overpriced dealership or garage? I really need to be able to get to work, and I sincerely do not have the money to spend on repairs (or a new car). I have about a half hour commute and would be interested to know if my car is fixable, or if anyone has some general idea of what the problem could be.

    Thank you in advance for any help you can offer me.
  • lennyj01lennyj01 Posts: 1
    I recently took my 1999 GLS VR6 Jetta in because the battery was not functioning... turns out I needed a new alternator.

    About 3 days after I got my car back, I was driving down the highway when suddently the speedometer and odometer both stopped functioning. The speedometer just fell to zero. I went back in, and was told it was not the speed sensors, it had to be a separate problem. They said that in order to determine what that was, they would have to remove the entire transmission of the car -- meaning that I would have to pay a minimum of $1000 just for that. Since I had just paid a hefty amount for a new alternator, I declined at the time to have it fixed.

    Has anyone else had this problem in a Jetta, and any idea what caused it? (without ripping out the transmission?)

    Thanks.
  • :( I don't know if anyone else has this problem, I have a squeak/rattle at Hwy speeds on my 2003 Jetta GL. It sounds like its coming from the passenged door. Should I just have someone try to take a look at it. If anyone elsa has this problem please let me know. It's driving me crazy!!!

    Thanks,
    Paul
    Dallas, TX
  • kneebs1kneebs1 Posts: 1
    HELP! I just recently bought a 08’ Wolfsburg Jetta. This being the first time that I have ever owned a car I’m somewhat new at what high performance engines require. As I was gassing up the other day I noticed that the gas cap said PREMIUM gas. Despite mentioning to the sales men several time that I wanted to SAVE on gas prices he neglected to tell me that VW recommends 93 octane for the Wolfsburg. With PREMIUM gas being $4.50 a gallon I don’t want to go down that road, the whole reason I bought a Jetta was to save on gas.

    My question is, will it hurt the engine to use regular? Another option I thought of was using mid-grade with an octane buster. Will either of these options damage the engine over the life of the car?
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    Yeah, it probably means you've blown the head gasket, and with it any hope of dealing with this inexpensively. If you'd dealt with the cooling problems before, that would have been a minor expense. Fixing the engine will be a major expense.

    You're trying to keep something running that needs an investment, without making the investment. If you can't afford it, then park it. Fixing it now is going to cost nearly as much as another very used car....rebuilding the head, and the cooling system, is going to be [by my experience] at least a couple of thousand $.

    I know this sounds brutal, but the reality is that the car needs a lot of mechanical attention. If you're not a mechanic yourself, it simply cannot come cheaply.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I am fairly certain that they design the engine so that it will adjust timing, etc. if you use lower octane gas. You'll know if it doesn't as it will knock.

    However, you will get less power and lower mpg, as the engine is designed to run optimally on the higher octane. If mpg drops 5%, and I have no idea if it will, and premium costs 5% more, you will not save anything with cheaper gas, anyway.

    I guess for the future you have learned that you need to do your own research, rather than count on a car saleman to do it for you. You could have bought a Jetta with the 2.5 engine that uses regular. But then, according to EPA, the 2.5 engine uses 4% more gas than the 2.0T so the fuel cost per mile is almost the same. EPA gives an annual fuel cost estimate of $2598 for the 2.0T and $2565 for the 2.5, based on 15,000 miles.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    Yeah, I'm puzzled by this query...you really can't use regular in any recent, modern, turbocharged engine of which I'm aware, and I'm a serious car nut. Unlike a normally aspirated engine, using regular when premium is called for risks more heat [from retarded timing] than the turbo, oil, and coolant will want to put up with in the long haul.

    Wrong choice of engine, and maybe wrong choice of car altogether if high mileage on regular gas is the goal.
  • steven39steven39 Posts: 636
    hi folks,iam considering purchasing a 08 jetta 5sp and wanted to know how many miles can i expect to get out of the clutch with normal wear and tear......
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    It really depends on your abilities with a clutch pedal.

    I have driven well over 150,000 miles on many vehicles and never had any clutch issues. My daughter had a Honda Prelude that went over 250,000 miles on original clutch.

    The secret (as I taught my daughter to drive) is to NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE until clutch is fully enguaged. (Obviously on a hillstart your tecnique needs to be adjusted slightly.)

    On my Jetta TDI, I can ripple thru the first 3 gears without touching the throttle. (Why bother touching the throttle in the city between stoplights?)

    This tecnique takes a lot of practice but rewards the driver with a long-lasting engine/clutch and excellent MPG numbers.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    It also depends on the type of driving. Obviously cruising on the freeway is not causing any clutch (or brake) wear.

    I and my familiy have driven manual transmission cars up to as much as 150K mi, and never replaced a clutch.

    We drive normally using the throttle and, anyway, I don't know that engaging the clutch without it is the best thing for clutch wear minimization...seems to me you would have to let it out so gradually that there might be increased wear due to the extended time during which you have the clutch partially engaged.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You are correct that highway driving is ZERO wear on a clutch/brakes.

    The main "wear factor" for the clutch is HEAT. Heat is generated when the delta between engine RPM and road-speed is large.

    I know people (usually teenagers thinking they are cool) who REV the engine repeatedly as they enguage the clutch. A clutch treated in this manor may not last 50,000 miles.

    Conversely, if engine RPM is as low as possible when enguaging the clutch, the heat (wear) will also be minimized.

    Also, the ability to match engine RPM with roadspeed between shifts minimizes clutch wear.... (and makes gear-changes smooth) I would bet that most people riding with me would not be able to feel when I shift gears if they did not hear/see me going thru the motiions.
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    I bought a 2001 Jetta for my son with 85K miles. Yesterday he said the car did not start twice during his stop and go driving through out the day.

    When he turned the key and depressed the clutch, all dash lights were coming on but no clicking or cranking. After several attempts of turning the key on and off, the car started up normal.

    The battery, starter, and red battery cable appear new. Is there any history of Jetta having problem with clutch safety switch where if the clutch is not fully depressed it won't let the car start? If so, does the switch have an adjustement range?

    It sure feels like clutch safety switch not making it than anything else at this point.

    Thanks,
    Joe
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,862
    The fastest way to find out is to hook up the Vag.com.
  • i just found out i have a blown head gasket...im willing to put 300 max into it...how hard is it to replace? any pointers, tips? will it be in my price range?
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