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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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  • Hello,

    My VW Jetta GLS (automatic) is giving me a new issue today. It started hesitating while the "Check Engine" light blinked continuously. As I was driving the car it would hesitate and would have a hard time accelerating and then at times it felt like it would finally shift into gear and would start driving normally again only to once again continue with the same pattern of hesitating, etc. When I would stop at a light it kept vibrating and hesitating. Do you all have any idea what issue I may be having?
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    " ) Make certain the new sparkplugs are HAND threaded to the seat before snugging. (To eliminate cross-threading ) "

    It is tough to get your hand under the intake manifold to hand start # 2 and #3 plugs. A piece of fuel line type rubber hose with 5/16" or 3/8" ID where it is pressed onto plugs is a good way to mimick hand starting. VW's 4 cyllinder is the first 4 cylinder engine I have seen where the intake manifold covers the plugs. Normally, this is the case with V-6 engines.

    bpeebles, you do have a lot of good comments and suggestions and we appreciate them. Keep up the good work.

    Joe
  • I am having the same problem with my 2003 Jetta TDI. I am guess it's a sensor issue and not some major transmission problem. Did you ever get a resolution on this?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    There was a rash of bad brake-pedal-switches. If the car does not sense that the brake-pedal is pushed, it may not allow taking out of park. Have you considerd this?
  • Has anyone had any experience replacing the coil? I am going to replace mine and it does not appear to be overly complicated. Is there anyone who can point me to an overview or tips section that might help me along the way? Thanks.
  • Try here:
    http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1835863
    Search for discussion on your engine. 1.8T, VR6, etc.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Which engine do you have?

    I beleive the 1.8T and VR6 have INDIVIDUAL COILS mounted on each sparkplug while the 2.0 has a single coil.
  • Did anyone ever discover the source of the crayon smell? is it the carpet? The seat covers? the door panels or headliner? I can't drive the car with the smell and I need some relief? Somebody help me!

    Any class-action lawyers out there need a class rep?
  • Hi, another disappointed Jetta owner - I have 03 GLI VR, and for the last 6 months we have been suffering this nasty moldy smell coming out of the vent system. Otherwise I love this car, but it is getting impossible to drive if the windows are closed. Does anyone have any suggestions how to fix this issue?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You are experiencing mold on your AC evaperator coil. (under the dashboard) To fix it you need to treat the SOURCE of the problem (kill the mold) There are ways to do this without disassembling your entire dashboard. ("fog" treatments that are sprayed into the air-intake system.)

    Once you have the problem resolved... you need to change your usage-habits with the AC to PREVENT it from ever coming back.
  • Thank you for the advice. We use the A/C only occasionally. The car has 39000 miles.
    Do you have any suggestions how to clean the evaporator coil?

    Tnx!
  • waiwai Posts: 327
    Please advise after how many miles should we change the transmission fluid and fuel filter as this is not mentioned in the owner's maintenance schedule.
  • CAN I CHANGE MY DRUM BRAKES TO DISK BRAKES? WHERE CAN I GET A CONVERSION KIT? AND FINAL QUESTION IS IT WORTH IT? JUST CHANGE MASTER CYLINDER AND DRUMS LOOK PRETTY WORN EVERYONE TELLS ME DRUMS ARE NOT GOOD, SO I WANT TO CHANGE TO DISK.
  • geo6geo6 Posts: 3
    My 2002 Jetta TDI quit running. This car has only 40k miles. I am told by VW that my warranty was 5 years or 50k miles. They had to replace the Injection pump for a cost of $2,800. I love the car but not the company. Has anyone had any dealings with VW on an issue like this. Is there anyone I might be able to contact for some help in retrieving some of my capital back ? I can't believe that an injection pump won't last for more than 40k miles.
  • geo6geo6 Posts: 3
    My 2002 Jetta TDI quit running. This car has only 40k miles. I am told by VW that my warrenty was 5 years or 50k miles. They had to replace the Injection pump for a cost of $2,800. I love the car but not the company. Has anyone had any dealings with VW on an issue like this. Is there anyone I might be able to contact for some help in retreiving some of my capital back ? I can't beleive that an injection pump won't last for more than 40k miles.
  • My 94 Jetta requires a little effort to push the shifter into first, and sometimes when I shift moderately quick into 2nd, I hear a thud. Is this the synchronizer? When I shift into 2nd slowly and ease the clutch out, it shifts nice and smooth. Does anybody know what this is? Is it just me? Had the car for only two weeks now- Help please. Thank you.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,013
    That's a lot of money for that repair. My books list the pump at $1120 and labor at 3.5 hours, so even at $125/hour and including 8% sales tax I get a total of around $1700.

    You might want to sit down with the service department and ask for a complete review of the bill and all charges. By asking careful questions you might knock this bill down.

    It's a very unlucky break for you, but if you're out of warranty you're out of warranty. You could certainly call or write VW and ask for some kind of assistance. Call their "zone office" which the dealer can give you contact info for.

    I know it's a pain becoming your own advocate and spending all this time, but you could end up making $100 an hour doing this work, so it's worth a shot.

    As for the injection pump, it is susceptible to damage and is a very complex little gadget. You have every right to be disappointed however. Had the car just sat for ten years, I'd say, well sure, okay, but you've been using it regularly. It shouldn't have failed IMO and VW should at least help you out by either (or both) kicking in some cash and reviewing the dealer's bill. Something about the dealer's bill (as you've presented it) is troubling, unless there are other things on there you didn't mention.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Replacing the InjectionPump means tearing into the timing-belt area. It would be ludricrus to NOT replace the TB, pullies, waterpump, thermostat, tensionor, seals (crank and cam) and all other moving parts while in there.

    Thus one should add the price of the IP to the cost of a TB replacement. Even then, the cost should not be over $2500.

    Also, some shops may find other moving parts that are worn. (serpentine tensioner/pully, sprag-clutch on alternator pully...etc.)

    It is a losing propasiton to try to save a buck by NOT replacing somthing while in there. For example.... a failed pully can cause the TimingBelt to slip and a piston can crash into valves.... and you think an InjectionPump is expensive??

    This is another GREAT opertunity for me to repeat.... allways-ALWAYS add diesel-fuel additive when you fill the tank. Not only will you get 3-5MPG increase, but it also lubricates the expensive IP and runs quieter. Contrary to what gasoline-additives do.... DIESEL additives truly imporve the crappy fuel we have here in NorthAmerica.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,013
    Were this an 80,000 mile engine I couldn't agree with you more, but I don't think, as the owner of a 40K car, I would quite do ALL the things you suggest. I'm sure you're right, there are things on that bill that were done besides the pump. I guess my question is did they just run away with a blank check here.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    That is not really "strange"... you SHOULD be shifting smoothly to allow the synchronizers to do their job between gears. You can think if it as a 'pause' or 'bump' between gears as you feel the synchros. line up the spinning metal components within the xmission.

    I assume you are ALWAYS pushing the clutch pedal to the floor?
    You may want to also verify that the clutch is fully disenguaging.

    If the clutch *is* fully disenguaging... then what you describe sure sounds like the wrong xmission fluid may be in there. A fluid which is too slippery will essentually disable the synchros. from doing their job. The synchros. need a little 'friction' so they can equalize the spinning metal components against each other.

    (the 'pause' between gears will be too long and if you push harder to get the synchros. to do their thing.... the gears end up slamming into each other.)

    You might want to consider changing the xmission fluid.. USE ONLY THE SPECIFIED VW FLUID! A lot of folks have experimented with xmission-fluids in a VW and the concensus is that VW has done their homework. Nothing (except mabie RedLine MTL) can match the performance of the VW-specified fluid.
  • Thanks I appreciate your help.
  • Need help, I had take my distributor cap off to check , that was the easy part. Trying to put back on the metal clip holder in the back broke, there is no even way to hold down the distributor cap.
    Can these clips be replaced? Where can I get them?
    Or do I have to look for a whole new distributor?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Call a VW dealership... if no luck , then a scrapyard may have a wrecked VW with some parts on it.

    For now.... any way to hold down the cap will work. Perhaps a bungie-chord wrapped around the cap and under the distributor may work.
  • The cluster on my Jetta 2.0 manual does not function. The speedometer, tach, fuel and temp gauge's needles just rest on the pins. The only thing that works is the clock on the tach (??). Even the odometer stopped.
    The VW dealer wants 500 for a new cluster and install. However, there are several used clusters online (thesamba.com, vanagon.com, ebay), only I do not know if I have to match part numbers or if they are universal from 93-99. Has anybody went through this before?
    I found some reverse style white faced gauges that would match the head unit I want to install (reverse style means the numbers light up, not the whole face). A local speed and sound shop told me they would install that cluster with the new gauges for 75-100 dollars. Is this something that a certified VW mechanic or the dealer needs to fix? Is there something that needs reset, or is it a simple install that the speed shop can do?
    Also, if anybody out there would happen to know the part number for my cluster so I could order one from the net, that would be great. (94 Jetta 2.0L GL manual).
    What would you guys do? Any help is appreciated, I hear this is a common problem among the VWs.
    It definitely helps to know how fast you are going...

    Thank You
  • fansofanso Posts: 3
    Hi, I got my Jetta one year ago.

    6 months ago, I had the first service (5k miles) done, when the actually mileage was 3K.
    Now it's 12 months, and I accumulated mileage to just above 5000 miles....
    (my home is really close to my office..)

    Shall I have the second service (for 10K miles) done now? or shall I wait?

    Also, anybody knows the relationship between scheduled service and warranty? If I don't do the second service now but will the mileage reaches 10K, will there be any issue on "void warranty"?

    Your reply is appreciated :) :confuse:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    SInce you apparently drive very little.... you may need to change your oil based on the TIME schedule instead of the MILAGE schedule.

    Short-driving cycles which do not allow the engine to get hot long enough allows the condensation to build up and migrate to the bottom of the crankcase. The crankcase of your engine is building up acidic water droplets in it. That is the MAIN REASON oil is changed...to get rid of the acidic build-up.

    Oil does not stop being slippery... that would be like saying water can stop being wet.

    You should be changing your oil/filter at least every 6 months reguardless of milage. It is cheap insurance against servere engine problems later.

    In reguards to your question about the "warantee".... lets be clear about this - the "warantee" is not an "all-or-nothing" affair. If somone does not change their oil... the unlimited-milage warantee on the body is not affected. Nor is the warantee on the rest of the vehicle.

    The Federal government has you protected...Read the Magnusson-Moss Act (which also came with your new car)
  • i have a 2004 jetta and it my sound stupid but where do i cheak the tranny fluid? and where do i fill the transmission fluid? thers nothing in the owners manual. thanks.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The xmission is sealed. Having a "dipstick" allows dirt to enter and contaminate the system. Engineers from many automakers have discovered it is better to seal the xmission which improves service-life.

    The only way to "check" the automatic xmission fluid is with a computer connected to the plug under the dash. Thusly, you can determine the temperature of the fluid and then follow a procedure to check the level.

    It is best to leave things alone and just follow the maintenance schedule reguarding fluid-changes. It is VERY important that you use ONLY the fluids specified by VW. This holds true for engine-oil, antifreeze, xmission, powersteering, brake.... etc. Folks who have "experimented" with other fluids found that the German engineers did their homework in reguards to fluid-specifications.
  • I have a 2002 Jetta and have recently had some issues with the ignition coil and stalling related issues due to wet weather. Took the car into the shop and was it was "confirmed" by the mechanic that the coil in fact needed to be fixed. Not wanting to drop $800, I followed the tips on here and sealed the coil, replaced the wires and plugs and no longer have the skipping issues. However, my check engine light has not gone off and my car recently failed inspection. Frustrating.

    Anyone have a similar experience and any ideas to what is causing the engine light to remain on? O2 sensor? Computer leads need to be cleaned? I'd rather not bring the car back in to the mechanic for a diagnostic since he previously charged me $85 (and suggesting the coil be replaced).

    FYI - car has 150K miles - catalytic onverter was replaced at 80K.

    Thanks for any suggestions.
  • waiwai Posts: 327
    Is the manual transmission's fluid is also sealed same as auto? Do we need to change it as service manual has not mentioned.
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