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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • toni6toni6 Posts: 4
    Do you know much it cost to change the codes after a battery change? I own a Jetta and it drives so bad after a friend put a knew battery in~
  • I just traded my 01 Jetta GL at 64k as well. Problems I've had with the car

    1)Channging head or tailight bulbs every 6 months
    2)Theres that grease that keeps comming out below the driver's door
    3)Rattles, rattles, rattles
    4) CD player is funky sometimes

    Despite those, I do miss it. It was a great car and never died on me. Drove it thru the worst rain and snow. If VW hadnt screwed with the look of the car I wouldve gotten the 06.
  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    Nells: In order to make your posts easy to read please do us a favor and use proper punctuation (PERIODS). It is very difficult to read and follow. In order to get a response from others, please make your posts legible.

    I would avoid this Jetta with 113,000 miles on it.
  • I have a couple of basic questions regarding glazing. I recently had my car serviced at the dealership and they advised that I needed to replace my brake rotors due to the glazing. I did not have time to ask particulars at the dealership so...
    1 - What is glazing and what causes it?
    2 - What are the consequences if I don't attend to it right away?

    Thank you.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,487
    1. Improper bedding of the pads and rotors when new.

    b. Excessive use (WAY PAST heat range passed @ what the pads are rated) they in effect become gooey and glaze over.

    c. improper cooling

    d combination of:

    2. It diminishes your ability to stop.
  • toni6toni6 Posts: 4
  • Thanks for your response.

    Aside from someone looking at the pads/rotors, are there any other indications that would alert me that I have a glazing issue? i.e. sounds, handling, etc.

  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,487
    Using the technical data, the best is to pop off the wheel to take a look see at the rotors.

    Popping off the pads is realy easy, but I would hesistate to say go ahead and do it, for it IS amd CAN BE a HUGE safety issue. This can be further complicated if you do not know what you are doing OR encounter problems.
  • Please don't use CAP LOCKS...members tend to ignore such posts because they are too hard to read.


    Shifty the Host
  • Hi...I'm assuming that this message is in response to the "glazing" issue. So I gather that the only way to know that there is glazing is if someone looks at it. Is that right?

    Anyway, thanks for your advice. Seeing that I didn't even know what glazing was, I won't be popping off anything anytime soon. I'll be taking my Jetta in to my guys at the garage.

    Thanks! :)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    First of all, Rotors dont "glaze" --- pads may "glaze". In fact you WANT the surface of the rotor to be smooth. If you are using Carbon-based pads, then part of the process of breaking-in the pads causes some carbon to transfer to the rotor surface. This actually improves braking performance.

    With todays modern pad materials, it is VERY rare for "glazing" to occour. I guess that dragging brakes or "riding" the brake-pedal might "glaze" the pads. Some people notice squeeling brakes when the pads ae "glazed".

    It is trivial to deglaze pads with some fine sandpaper upside-down on a mirror or other glass surface. 100-grit about 10-20 light strokes.

    Some beleive that using the brakes too lightly can contrubute to the APPEARANCE of "glazing". In such conditions - perform some VERY HEAVY breaking to "let the smoke out" (about 3-4 HEAVY braking from 70-down to 5 MPH) follow with at least 20 minutes of continous driving to allow things to cool-down evenly. (dont sit at a stoplight with hot brakes!!!) Once things have cooled back down, your brakes will feel MUCH stronger than before.

    If you do not feel as if your braking is compromized and am asking about "glazing" because you sensed that the mechanic was trying to pull the wool over your eyes... your senses may be correct. - I would suggest you ignore the whole idea of "glazing" and enjoy your car.

    I have posted this URL here about 50 times previous... I guess it is time to post it again:
  • The problem with starting in the rain was the coil. I found out that vw had a problem with the coils for a couple of years.
  • I have a 2002 2.0L GLS with 65,000 miles (not a turbo anything). The check engine light has flicked on and off a few times. My hubby borrowed a OBD reader and it gave him a trouble code of "Ignition coil circuit malfunction". Having read alot on the internet about coil problems, we were all set to order a replacement coil and fix before we head out on our Thanksgiving driving. However, after reading several posts on this board regarding "phantom check engine lights", I'm second-guessing replacing it in favor of bringing it to the mechanic on Monday (they are completely booked with everyone getting their cars checked before T-giving driving). The car is driving fine, no problems whatsoever, but I hesitate to take it on a 5-hour drive with a check engine light on... Just kind of wanted to get a second-opinion.

    Mary, ATL, GA
  • Check the coil for cracks. If you have as much as a hairline crack in it (moisture will find its way in there), replace the coil. If you or your husband are mechanically inclined, you can pick up the coil (price range is usually between $70 and $150) at either the dealer ($$$), local import parts store (less $$), or order it online (even less $). The only other thing you will need to buy is a 6-point Torx socket set to remove the coil from its mounting point (usually at the firewall on the transmission side of the engine compartment)...
  • Thanks for the advice. I am planning on replacing it myself - none of the local parts store have the part, so I am ordering it online and having it overnighted (still cheaper than getting from the dealer). Seems like a very easy part to replace.
  • pruzinkpruzink Posts: 112
    There are certain "fudge factors" that your engine learns over time; changing the battery probably reset them to the default values. I'm not sure what you mean by your car drives "crazy", but I know that if I reset the DTCs (digital trouble codes) on our VWs that for a while the engine idles a 160 RPM higher, and the air flow correction factors get reset to default values. Hopefully by the time you read this your car will be behaving "normal". Other than possibly needing the security code for your radio, I'm not aware of any other special codes that you would need after changing a battery.
  • pruzinkpruzink Posts: 112
    I just replaced the coil pack on my daughter's 2.0L, engine code AVH 01 Jetta. She wasn't getting any codes but when it was raining out she had an occasional studder at idle. First I replaced the ignition wires ($87), but that made no differance. The coilpack was $175 from the dealer, but I have seen them online for $100. If the car is running good, I wouldn't worry about driving it over the weekend. I'm not really positive if reading the code with a generic OBD-II reader is 100% accurate for all codes on VWs however. If someone in your area has Vagcom, that program is specifically designed to read all VW codes. If it truly is an ignition circuit malfunction, you really don't want to ignore it too long because that high voltage spark needs to go to the right place at the right time or other parts in the circuit can end up getting damaged. Do you only get the check engine lights when it is wet out or does it happen all of the time. I'm pretty sure that there are sprays that you can use on the coil to improve its electrical resistance if its only on rainy days. When I just replaced mine, I had to remove the vacuum pump (quite easy, just 3 small nuts holding it on), and the 3 fasteners for the coil pack were a #5 metric allen (I think).
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    You really need to provide more info. What year is your VW?

    If it has drive-by-wire.. .then you most likely need to calibrate the throttlebody after changing the battery. (The flapper in the throttlebody needs to be "re-trained" to be in sync. with the accellerator pedal.)

    Again -- if you would please provide more details. (instead of saying "drives crazy") We may be able to help you better.
  • I can't be sure whether it was raining the first time the check engine light came on, but the second time it came on it definitely was raining. We did use a generic OBD reader, andI'll be honest, the code that we got out of the reader did not match any of the codes in the Haynes manual we have for the car. I had initially ruled it out as "maybe the codes were for older model Jettas", but maybe it is what you are talking about, that the generic OBD reader is wrong? Which would mean I'm back at square one if that's the case. I've already ordered the part off the internet (a little more expensive than you found, but I have a different engine code than your daughters'), and its easily returnable, so in the meantime I'll try and find someone with vagcom to see if the code comes out any differently. The husband said "we can just run water over the part and see if the engine sputters" but if its not driving any differently now (rain or not) I don't think pouring water over the part will make any difference. Plus it makes me a tad nervous. But yes, it does look very easy to replace, probably one of the easier repairs I've made on any car.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    The easist way to test the ignition has not changed for 50 years. With engine idling, using "spritzer" bottle with water and moisten the ignition wires - then the coil.

    If the engine falters at all, there is somthing that needs attention. I regularly remove all plug wires and wash them in soapy water (dish detergent), after rinsing and thorough drying, use a LIGHT layer of silicone grease on all boots where they contact the coil. (to help seal out water.)

    I have also removed ignition coils and washed in soapy water. (the layer of grunge on the coil may cause misfiring)

    If your enginge falters when the ignition coil is spritzed with water, then install the new coil you have orderd and try the "spritz-test" again.
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