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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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  • Good Afternoon,

    I have a motor drop issue and not sure how it happened.
    Please read this letter.

    My Jetta TDI has only 131678.0 miles on it.
    This TDI for the past 11 years has had every oil change, sessional tire change & rotation and VW parts replaced by a VW Authorized Service Technician.

    I just had it in for service, oil change with filter, new fuel filter. new ball joint on front right side and two days later driving home my engine falls out of the car and drags on the ground!
    I phoned my VW dealer and expressed my concern, they said bring it in and we will look at it. Then the manager sends me an email and in his email is written:

    "Looking at the photo’s it seems like a motor mount has broken? We have seen this before with TDI’s. The side mount by the timing belt can snap, or the bolt can break which causes the motor to fall…."

    Since this happens with the TDI, why didn't I or the other TDI owners receive a
    VW ALERT about motor mount failure?

    If VW put in a faulty taillight bulb that may cause a potential fire there would have been an alert but not if you have bad motor mounts that may cause your engine to fall out and put you or someone else at risk of being hurt!

    When I went to my VW Dealer for a service a few days ago and my VIN number was keyed in, why wasn't there an ALERT notification telling the service department that this TDI needs to have its motor mounts checked?? If it did have an alert my engine would not have fallen to the ground while on the highway which could have caused a serious accident but luckily no accident. Otherwise, I would not be sitting here this morning writing this letter and looking out my living room window at my VW Jetta TDIs motor sitting on the ground.

    "Would you like to buy a new VW TDI they are a great looking car but be aware the motor mount may break and the engine may fall to the ground"

    steven63

    http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g417/Absnitch/VWEngineDropNov42011791.jpg
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I am not sure if this is your problem or not... but I will mention it here for your information.

    When the Timing Belt (TB) is replaced on TDI engine, one of the motor-mount bolts MUST be removed to access the belt.

    The factory shop manual *SPECIFIES* that the motor-mount bolt MUST BE REPLACED anytime it is removed. This is because it is a TTY (Torque To Yield) bolt which stretches when it is installed. Once stretched, if it is reused, it may snap off. (later down the road at some unexpected time)

    There are documented cases where a TDI owner has TB replaced and the mechanic re-uses the motorMount bolt.... at a later time, the bolt snaps and the engine falls out from under the vehicle.

    My suggestion to you... get your hands on the original receipt when your TB was replaced. If it does not specify that they REPLACED the motor-mount bolt (by evidence of charging your for new bolt).... then you may have a case against that service-provider which replaced your TB.
  • I'm replying to my own post. I was able to replace the door latch mechanism and VW did sell it seperately at around $60. It is easy to replace yourself. About 20 minutes and includes taking the 20 screws on and off the carpeted trunk door.
  • Replace the coil pack. AutoZone sells the part for $90 to $120 and is cheaper than dealer price. The Coilpack is held in by 3 screws. Disconnect battery then remove the spark plugs noting which order they were removed to match up with new coil. One of the 3 screws of CP is a little tough to remove, but in 15 minutes it completed. Reconnect plugs, battery and start car and drive with a smoother running car.
  • Correction to post 6559. Coil pack sold for $201 + tax, a BWD brand, at Autozone. Order on-line and save a little more if you can wait for it to be shipped.
  • 2012 Golf TDI Wagon or a 5-Door

    Good Morning,

    I am thinking of purchasing a new 2012 VW Golf TDI Wagon or a 5-Door in either the Comfortline or Highline.
    Has anyone on this forum purchased either of these two VW Golfs? What are your thoughts on these two models?

    Thank you.

    steven63
  • raggzraggz Posts: 1
    Hi
    Did you ever find the solution to your problem? Cuz my sons Jetta is doing the exact same thing.
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Posts: 152
    OK you Jetta geniuses, hope you can help me with this. My Pastor has a '95 Jetta 2.0. It was given to the family nearly 3 years ago and now his teenage daughter drives it. He put a lot of $$$ in it in 2011, most notable another engine because the timing belt went on his old one and lunched the motor. Since this was done and a few other minor things taken care of, he was telling me yesterday that when his daughter went to go somewhere the other day, the car started spewing oil like crazy. Naturally, she didn't notice it right away(Do teenagers notice ANYTHING? LOL) There was a trail of oil down the street, and then she told him the car shut down. I think is because there MAY be a sensor or switch(Low oil pressure cutoff switch??) that will shut down the engine before it seizes up, yes??

    Anyway, I was at his home yesterday and had a chance to look at the car. There was no oil on the dipstick when I pulled it out, so he went and found some and put it in. I told him to start the car and oil starts gushing out of the TOP of the filter housing, right where the round part sits on top of the square part. I see that there is a water connection to this square piece, but the oil was definately coming out underneath this round seam. Now is this a faulty gasket issue? I got one from a local parts supplier and it's called the Oil Filter Bracket Gasket. On top of this round piece of the filter housing, there are 2 metric allen screws and I THINK one is further back near where it attaches onto the engine block. The shape of this gasket has me thinking that this belongs where the filter bracket is attached onto the block. If this is true, then I have the wrong part, because the oil is coming out around this rounded part sitting directly on top. Any help any of you can give me on this issue will be deeply appreciated and a very Happy New Year to you all.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    On many VW engines, the oil-filter screws into the "heat-exchanger". This "heat-exchanger" has antifreeze flowing thru it to help cool the oil. (and heat the oil to the same temp as the antifreeze)

    From your description, it sounds as if the O-ring between the "heat-exchanger" and the engine has started to leak.

    Personally, any vehicle which was ingored/disregarded to the point of allowing the timingbelt to break may be suspect for additional problems stemming from a ignorant owner.
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Posts: 152
    bpeebles, thank you for responding to this problem on my friend's '95 VW Jetta. I had a feeling that this was an O-ring issue and NOT the gasket I got yesterday from the parts store. This gasket HAS to be the one between the block and the filter housing, in back of the sending unit. It makes more sense that there would be a bad O-ring that's causing the oil to gush out right above this heat exchanger. I shall address this when I meet with him tomorrow and see if we can solve this problem. While I do thank you for this info, I must take exception to your use of the term "ignorant owner"! This man is a church pastor and I said he was given the Jetta almost 3 years ago and the car ran well up till the day when the timing belt snapped. The engine had about 150k on it at that time. His wife used it earlier in the day and said she had no problems when she was driving it. When he tried to start it the next morning, it cranked over without starting. He knew his battery was bad, and thinking this might be the problem, put a new one in. When I got to his home and heard the engine turn over, my next move was to pull the distributor cap off and see if the rotor was turning. Of course it was not, and then I knew what had happened. I realize that if the proper timing belt change interval had been followed, perhaps this could have been avoided. Perhaps you might in the future try to use your words more wisely. Things sometimes just happen, and it's not at all due to being an "ignorant owner"!!
  • revmarketrevmarket Posts: 48
    edited January 2012
    As a pastor myself the word was used correctly.
    It may have had bad feelings behind it but it also may not have had any malice behind it.

    ignorant
    [ig-ner-uhnt]
      Origin
    ig·no·rant

     [ig-ner-uhnt] Show IPA
    adjective
    1.
    lacking in knowledge or training; unlearned: an ignorant man.
    2.
    lacking knowledge or information as to a particular subject or fact: ignorant of quantum physics.
    3.
    uninformed; unaware.
    4.
    due to or showing lack of knowledge or training: an ignorant statement.
    Origin:
    1325&#150;75; Middle English ignora ( u ) nt < Latin ignōrant- (stem of ignōrāns ), present participle of ignōrāre to ignore; see -ant

    To be uninformed of the timing belt change interval can be considered ignorant of facts. see definition number 2

    Sorry to get in the middle of your transaction but as a minister I could not let this go.

    Blessings.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Thank you [revmarket] ... I meant EXACTLY what the word ignorant means..... Lacking the knowledge that the Timing belt should have been changed BEFORE it broke. I see no malice in that.

    That ignorant owner was VERY lucky the TB did not snap whilst driving. The engine would have instantly become suitable for a boat-anchor or a doorstop.

    Volkswagen engines are so tight that a broken TB can leave some valves open such that the pistons will hit them.... the inside of the engine becomes trashed.

    In fact, it is possible that engine DOES have some internal damage... was the head pulled off and the pistons/valves inspected. (or use a scope thru the sparkplug holes.)
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Posts: 152
    It certainly wasn't my intent to get involved in a war of words over seeking help with this '95 Jetta. If I've offended anyone, I stand corrected and offer my humble apologies. At any rate, it may very well be that my repair efforts to correct the oil leak issue above the heat exchanger was moot at best. We started to access the O ring on Saturday morning, removing the oil filter, disconnecting what I believed to be the inlet water hose and then removing the retaining nut from the threaded filter pipe. This action allowed us to remove the heat exchanger and when we did, there was the original O ring in 3 pieces. We put the new O ring on, reversed our procedures, and then filled the oil to the correct level. We also had to add some antifreeze as some leaked out.

    The bottom line is that I didn't like the way the engine sounded last Wednesday when I first was asked to look at the car and upon my friend starting it then, saw where the leak was. I wondered aloud if the engine wasn't already damaged because practically all the oil was gone then. It didn't sound any better to me on Saturday after the O ring change. The leak was gone, but the engine sounded terrible. We went for a ride because it was low on gas, got some and he took it on the highway near his home and we went for about a 12 mile ride altogether. Then the oil pressure light came on and a tone went off, but the car WAS running and we didn't see a trail of oil anywhere. We stopped, shut the car down and rechecked the oil level and it was fine. There were no leaks of any kind. We started for his home, and were about a mile away and the oil light and tone came back again. I wasn't having a good feeling. Some hours later his daughter was taking her 2 younger brothers out for a treat at an ice cream store. She never made it. She was about 2 miles from her destination when she claimed she thought the car was on FIRE! She managed to get the car off the highway at an off ramp. Lo and behold, the guy behind her confirmed he saw flames coming from underneath the car and he was a fireman/EMT. She got her brothers out of the car quickly, but there was only a lot of smoke and no fire. A local towing service towed the car to their lot, which is only about 2 miles from my home. I went there today to see the car and expected to find evidence of a fire, but that engine compartment was fine. It was when I opened the door that I smelled what I believe to be the odor of an electrical fire, perhaps something melted, I can't be sure. It seems that at this point, the work her father and I did to fix the leak was totally unrelated to what happened later. I'm just thankful to God that these 3 got out of that car OK.

    Not sure what will happen to the car now, it may well be that proverbial boat anchor that you spoke of earlier. Sorry to be so long winded here, but I just wanted to tell you that your suggestion was spot on and I thank you again for that info.
  • I have a 2000 VW Jetta 2.0L. The timing belt just broke on my Jetta. I drove to the store (no problems) when I came back out, I started it up, and it was running a little rough, and the check engine light came on. I turned the engine off, and then went to restart and it just spun. Towed it home and replaced T-belt. Now the engine is making a slight ticking noise that wasn't there before, and it seems to be idling a little rough. It sounds like it might have a bent valve. Could just turning it over with the stater have bent the valves?
  • As was stated in the previous reply, yes it could have damaged a little or a lot.
    Inspect the heads, and cylinders, and pistons, and valves for damage.
    Cranking the engine can cause all those parts to move.

    Is an 11 year old car worth a repair to the engine, or a new / used engine?
    Only you and the owner can make that determination.

    Praying all works well for the owner, the daughter and you.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,116
    You could do a compression test to see if one valve isn't seating just right.

    Also I don't know if your valves are adjustable--if so, that's worth a shot if compression is okay. Also check the spark plugs for damage.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • eliaselias Posts: 1,931
    many of TDI geeks like me are admittedly IGNORANT of what it's like to own the newest VW TDIs but we are not IGNINT about VW diesels in general.
  • hey, i'm thinking about buying a used 2000 Jetta vr6 with about 104k. I'm going to test drive it and take a look. I'm not a super expert at cars or anything. I was wondering is there anything to check for that this model has had problems with a lot? Like transmisson, or axles ? Any tips would be greatly appreciated =] !
  • My daughter just went to school in Texas (I'm in Cal) and bought a 2007 Jetta; her sunroof is opening on it's own and the online consensus is a faulty switch. I've ordered a new one but don't want to pay for a repair manual for this one (simple?) repair. Looks like you pop the light lenses and take out two screws - easy peasy. Can anyone confirm? Is it harder than this? Am heading down there for a couple days and hope to do this as a present for her.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,116
    I think you have to remove the entire light assembly. If you can buy the switch then it is separate and replaceable. On some Jettas, you have to replace the entire assembly as the switch is not separated from the unit.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • jshelvjshelv Posts: 2
    Hi battery light came on and then the car overheated and said I had no coolant. I checked and there is coolant in the car. When I turned the car off the fan continued to run for a few minutes and it looked like the coolant was boiling. Any suggestions on what the problem may be. Someone said transmission! UGH!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,116
    transmission??? That's a novel suggestion. :P

    Well you'll have to let it cool down and then diagnose what happened.

    Overheating is a complex problem and can have many causes. Some of the more likely ones:

    stuck thermostat

    coolant leak

    head gasket

    water pump

    clogged radiator

    non working cooling fan

    collapsed radiator hoses

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Initially, I was going to say "fanbelt" ... because on some cars, both the alternator (battery light) and the waterpump (overheating) are driven by the same belt.

    Alas, on VW engine, the alternator is on the fanbelt and the waterpump is driven by the Timing belt.... so that aint it!

    HOWEVER: I *would* like to know how your VW "said it had no coolant" ... does it talk?
  • Haha ok it didn't "say" that I had no coolant but a warning message popped up on the dash that read 'no coolant". Thanks for the info guys!
  • I have a 1998 jetta. 2.0L 4 door Auto

    here is the problem..

    will start and idle. every time. but if you give it any gas at all it shudders and stalls. (in any gear)

    I have done minor matneince..
    spark, spark plugs, fuel, rotor button, ran codes (brings up #1 and #2 banks... and Purge Valve) checked valve and it seems to be fine.

    checked for vacuum leaks. change oil, fuel and made sure the fuel pump works..

    IM LOST and we all know we can go broke fixing all the little things but never find the big problem.
  • Hi, I just recently purchased a 2002 VW Jetta VR6 with the 2.0 AZG motor. To make a long story short I bought it and it shifted perfectly fine and had no lights on..about 5 hours after purchasing the car the CEL came on..I hooked it up and ran the codes and got two back. The first was P0420 and the second I cant recall off the top of my head but it said the ignition coil was bad and had to possibly do with cylinder 3. After the light came on and ever since the car seems to shift funny. At times it will shift smooth and at other times it will have a delayed shift going from 2nd to 3rd gear. Also if you gas it to much when it reaches around 5 to 5500 rpms it seems to possibly slip or have a very delayed shift. There are times also when you put it in drive it will seem to lurch forward but it is very tempermental and only does it at certain times..could these CEL&#146;s be the cause of this or am I looking at some very expensive transmission problems?? Any and all help is appreciated!!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    How is it possible to have the "VR6" and at the same time have a 2.0L 4-cylinder engine???
    Which is it?
    Has the original VR6 engine been replaced with an AZG motor?

    If what you are telling us is true, then the engine is NOT the original for that car and you could have ALL KINDS of problems with it.

    Oh - and I am not so sure the VR6 xmission would mate-up to the AZG motor, so the xmisison may not be original either.

    I hope you did not pay very much for that frankenWagen.

    In any case, once you validate WHICH engine is in that thing, we may be able to assist with your problems. ... You may wish to also validate that the xmission is the correct one for that engine too.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    ummm - A 4-cylinder engine has only 1 "bank" of cylinders. Please tell us the specific codes which are failing and we may be able to assist further.
  • eliaselias Posts: 1,931
    exhaust/cat-conv may be plugged. also did you say O2 sensors/banks? don't trust them , be prepared to swap them if you haven't recently.
    to test exhaust/cat, disconnect the exhaust close to exhaust manifold and let her rip.
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