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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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  • Well, I finally took the car to a mechanic that spent an insane amount of time diagnosing the problem, switching out parts and testing every wire and pump in sight. Final diagnoses: Distributor. Not the distributor cap and other miscellaneous parts - the distributor itself, which he has offered to replace with used parts. I'm banking on the car NOT doing this again within the next couple years and the used part holding out.

    I have not received the car back yet to give it a full endorsement, but I'm too excited to have my car back after a near-month of this headache. I just had to update.
  • cwimmer77cwimmer77 Posts: 1
    I did try this and it worked right away. Its a little anoying just waiting for the radio to turn off again. Does anyone know if the same thing with the fuse happens if the radio is replaced by an aftermarket radio? Thanks for the fuse #42 info.
  • patkelly7patkelly7 Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my 2000 Jetta. The dealership acts like they have never heard of this problem before and claims not to be able to replicate the problem. Has anyone figured out what the fix is for this problem. The dealership said the fluid was low, but as soon as I left the dealership I put the car in reverse and it had the same problem, the car revved like it was in reverse with no movement. Please help.
  • fritzlerfritzler Posts: 1
    Hi Sean, my 2000 TDI is behaving exactly like yours did... what did you end up doing?Was it the MAF sensor? Cant afford to take it to VW, hoping you can offer some advice.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,081
    Dont be so hasty about not going to a VW dealersip. You may be eligible for the MAF Extended warantee.

    It is also likely that your intake plemum is plugged up. This tends to happen if TDI is "babied" combined with some other factors.
  • tveinottetveinotte Posts: 3
    When I purchased this car for my daughter,it seemed to work
    perfect. When we arrived home & let the car sit for a couple
    of hours , started the engine noticed blue & black smoke.
    smoke only lasts moments , then the engine runs smooth & the smoke is gone.She has been driving the car of 6 months & love's it.
    I have changed the plugs,cap&rotor, air filter, oil& filter (twice).Used good grade high milage oil . There is a
    lot of sluge in the engine,& changing the oil does not seem
    to be removing it. I also found a plastic moulded hose connected from what I think is the PCV valve to the valve cover that was cracked. I replace the hose but the engine still smokes on start-up ONLY sometimes . The engine uses
    very little oil ,does not use any anti-freeze. Seems a little sluggish in first gear but once you are in second gear & up the car has lots of power.Checked the compression , all cylinder are even @ 170 lbs. The catlic converter has
    a rattle , I am wondering if this could cause the oxygen sensor to not work proverly . The car is hard on gas & seems to be running rich. Any one know there the PCV Valve
    is located on a 2 liter or any ideas on the problem.

    Father needs help
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,664
    This sounds like a textbook case of worn valve guides or old and hard valve stem seals---which makes sense given the high mileage of the car and condition of the oil.

    Basically oil left on the top of the engine after it shuts off then leaks down through the valve stem seals or worn guides and drips onto the tops of the pistons. When the car is started, this oil is burned off, and then the engine smooths out and burns cleaner.

    This can be fixed but given the mileage on the engine, I wouldn't do correct surgery at this point, but rather live with it if you can.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    hard on gas, poor power... catalytic convertor?
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,664
    nah, because it would run WORSE at higher speeds, not better, right, if the catalytic were clogged. As for being hard on gas, who knows with that high mileage what's up with that....you'd need to do a careful fuel consumption test to see if the car is in spec or not.

    I guess you could run a catalytic by-pass test pipe for a day and see how that works.

    You could test for bad valve stem seals by driving to the top of a hill, then driving downhill with your foot off the gas...this creates high vacuum and should suck oil through the worn seals or guides....now, being very careful and aware of traffic ahead and behind, PUNCH the gas and observe if there is a cloud of blue smoke behind you at that point.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    you suggested a good test.

    actually, i was thinking that a clogged cat would result in loss of power and increased consumption... harder to get uphill.

    i imagine a cat convertor death spiral: too much fuel, nukes the cat some, modifies the back pressure, causes more fuel to be consumed, possibly more cat damage and so on and so on.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,664
    Well you know, when you hit 176K, which is just about the normal life span for most cars, you can get all kinds of weird things going on that defy normal run of the mill problem-solving. Maybe a computer scan would at least give you a place to hang your hat and begin a proper diagnostic. Where it gets tricky is when you have more than one thing going on, or when the REAL problem throw a code to the symptom, rather than the disease---such as "faulty 02 sensor". Question then becomes, well, what is causing the 02 sensor to freak out?

    If I had to take a wild guess, and knowing Jettas, I'd suspect badly worn or corroded fuel injectors for openers.
  • bora1bora1 Posts: 42
    Sorry to "burst your bubble" Jeff. The new DSG 6-speeds are NOT from Japan; but rather from the good ol' USA. They are manufactured by Borg-Warner; an American company. The 5-speed tipronic transmissions were manufactured by Delphi (a spin-off of General Motors).
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    What bubble :confuse: .

    I was not refering to the DSG. The conventional 6 speed automatic is from Japan. This is according to our window sticker. I had also indicated who the manufacturer is, according what I have read. This was related to someone stating that VW has had problematic transmissions, so I was wondering if those were from a different source.

    So anyway, it does sound like they did change suppliers if the previous automatics were from Delphi.
  • sleepingsleeping Posts: 1
    I am Korean
    1999 jetta rebuilted car..
    may be second holding..
    R is Ok.
    D is some problem.
    RPM is rise when I push the accelerator but when I remove my foot speed is down too fast with RPM.
    diagnosis tell transmission problem.
    but transsion shope don't.
    what do i do?.
  • emilywemilyw Posts: 2
    What does the MIL light mean when it comes on?
  • craigracraigra Posts: 2
    There is no durability with this car. If you want reliability, look elsewhere. My ownership experience with a 99 Jetta VR6 was miserable. In 7 years I spent over $5,000 on repairs alone. This excludes normal maintenance. Recently, the throttle control module went out, and it would have been $1,100 to fix. Finally drew the line and bought a Honda.

    But here's the thing - even with an automatic, this car was silly fun to drive. It was both my best and my worst car.

    A VW requires acceptance of high repair & maintenance cost and a AAA Plus membership.
  • eo19xxeo19xx Posts: 4
    MIL=MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT.
  • emilywemilyw Posts: 2
    Yes I know that but what is wrong with the car and how big of a problem is it?
  • eo19xxeo19xx Posts: 4
    THE MIL WHEN ON (NOT FLASHING) MEANS THAT THE ECU HAS DETECTED SOME FAULT THAT MAY AFFECT EMISSIONS. IT COULD ALSO BE A O2 SENSOR, LOOSE GAS CAP, OR MALFUNCTIONING COLLING SYSTEM. IF IT FLASHES WHILE DRIVING IT COULD DAMAGE THE CAT CONVERTER SO I SUGGEST GETTING IT CHECK OUT ASAP.
  • tveinottetveinotte Posts: 3
    User 777

    Thanks for the ideas, I am going to clean or replace the pcv
    valve & run some engine cleaner through to clean up the sluge.Reading the manual I have suggests that a falty EVAP
    purge valve will cause an over rich problem. The tail pipe
    is always black with oil residue & soot. But the engine burns
    very little oil. I read how to check the evap valve , going to try that. Hard to get any work done on the car, does not
    stop much.
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