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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    Suspect youu vacuum brake-booster is the problem.
  • Do I need to replace the booster and master cylinder: The VW people quoted about 500 in parts and four hours of labor. They will not quarentee that it will fix the problem since they can't "reproduce" the problem in the test drive. By the way, did you know that all the service department personnel get paid solely by commision. Even less from warranty work. The manager at one of the VW dealers admitted that to me; I couldn't believe it.
  • I just bought a 96 Jetta with 118k miles on it. After a couple days of driving it, it started to show a couple of problems. It idles a little under 10 (not sure if this is normal), when I start the car it hesitates and sometimes I have to crank it twice before it starts, also when I accelerate when stopped it waits and then jumps forward.
    Anyone have suggestions on what might be wrong with it??
    Thank you
  • I have a 1998 Jetta Wolfsburg and just replaced my ignition switch, including the electrical system, and starter. My car was a little different... it said the e-brake was always on, and it was loose and had troubles initiating the starter... i'd check into the TCM, then check the ignition system
  • do you know when your spark plugs were last replaced.. also check and make sure the distributor cap is ok and all cables are ok.. simple but might help... it sounds like your having troubles with igniting because other than plugs, those two problems shouldn't be too related.. i just replaced the plugs and wires (kinda have to on a jetta) and it has 120k and the stock plugs were in it!!! you should just do this anyways
  • i have a 98 jetta, and i'm pretty handy at it now, but how can i replace the light for my gauges, or one of them. for those of you with the older jetta you'll know the gauge doesn't light up, but instead a green light (or w/e color) just lights up the gauge. how do i get to these?? thank you anyone
  • Idling a little under 10 is normal. If the plugs, wires, distributor cap are all fine, you may want to have the ignition coil tested. I had a small crack in mine that developed further until the car wouldn't start at all. Starting my Jetta has never been a pleasant experience, especially when cold. That is even after new cap/rotors, better plugs, better wires, new battery, new ignition coil. Electrical problems are something inherent in gen 3 Jettas. Is the car waiting then jumping forward because the transmission is slipping?
  • I have an 01 Jetta VR6, that recently had the Emission Workshop message come on with the check engine warning light. In researching the net, people have suggested its only an O2 sensor, or vaccuum hoses, but I am noticing a serous lack of power in my engine, especially at low RPMs. I had filled my tank with some god-awful gas (literally, a no-name brand "FUEL") cuz I was close to empty, and I thought that maybe it had water in it and that was causing my problem. (The warnings came on the next day) I have since filled up with Hi-Test, and run it a significant amount, only there still exists the problem. Any ideas, any one?
  • I just leased a 2006 GLI. It's a nice machine, but since I also tried one at a competing dealership, I see now that the car I drove there must be a 2007 model--which I hadn't realized was on the market yet.

    The steering wheel in the'07 seemed a bit thicker. The driver's headrest, and, I think, the passenger's too, are a design which supports the head and neck actively in some way in the event of a rear collision.

    I've noticed that these two items are missing from the 2006 I leased.

    Are there other differences between the 2006 and 2007 GLIs?
  • usausa Posts: 8
    I got my car back Saturday. Two weeks to the day when the transmission failed. However I was disappointed to learn that the replacement is a reman not a new unit. I was told that they were ordering a NEW transmission. So the transmission I have now has failed at least once before.
  • Well not necessarily. The transmission you got NEW failed before---a reman might have been inspected and corrected for defects. You may not be worse off with a reman.
  • steven39steven39 Posts: 636
    with all of the well documented problems and quality issues regarding the vw jetta,how anyone can buy a 10 year old jetta with over 100,000 miles is beyond me.you are asking for trouble with the purchase of that used jetta.you should have gone with a used toyota,honda,ect.get ready for some major league repair bills with your jetta.sorry to burst your bubble here.
  • I have a 97 GL, manual transmission 2.0 litre, with 121K miles. The problems have been very few, if any. Other that regular maint, I haven't had to do too much more to the car to keep it in good order. Recently though, a occasional problem with the brake light on the dash has revealed itself. This only happens when driving with the headlights on. The brake light remains lit even when the hand brake is completely disengaged and the reservior is completely full. This in turn shuts off my headlights, the interior lights stay lit. Sometimes when this happens, I can lift the handbrake handle slightly to engage the brake light for the hand brake, disengage the hand brake and the light goes off and the headlights relight. It seems to me there is a problem with either the sensor reading the brake fluid in the resevior or the sensor on the hand brake. Regardless, when the brake light on the dash lights up with the hand brake disengaged, it is dimmer than the normal light with the handbrake engaged. Anyone have this happen to them?
  • mwebb11mwebb11 Posts: 13
    well this has happend to me on two different occasions. in the past, i thought my ignition switch needed replacing to fix it because it was loose, but no, the whole elecrical part of the ignition needed replacing. however, when my light was on, my headlights WOULDN'T turn on... but if i wiggled the key it would go off and fix my lights... ignition! but, i just put new calipers and roters on the rear, and i had to disconnect the cable of course.. but when i refilled with some fluid and after a week of driving, it was fixed.. will this help, i dont know... it could definitely be the sensor.. check that the plunger that falls into the fluid is working
  • Thanks - will give it a try.
  • I wouldn't necessarily agree with buying a 10 yr old Jetta with a lot of miles. I will say that they are a hell of a lot more fun to drive than a used toyota, honda, etc. It's been worth the money I've spent to keep mine going. I guess it is a personal preference thing.
  • I currently have a 1994 Jetta with 135K miles on it, I bought it after my 1991 Jetta with 155K miles on it.

    The idle under 10 is a typical problem that I've encountered with my Jettas. I had that problem in the 91 for about 3 years before it got unbearable. From what I can gather and remember, I believe that the problem was the distributor. I've recently replaced the distributor on my 94 (and several hunred $ later) and I no longer have the idle/racing problem. With the slipping, I've also found that on both of my Jettas, but I haven't noticed it as much on my 94 since the distributor was replaced.

    However it did take about 1 month for the mechanic to diagnose the problem and he was hesitant to do it due to the cost.

    Overall I've found that older Jettas do have their issues, typical exhaust system repairs, suspension and an occasional water pump, but I feel as though I've gotten my money's worth out of it.
  • jessyjessy Posts: 4
    I have posted before but I am trying again becuase it feels like no one can hear me!:)
    I have had my new jetta ( lux package) since July, I love it except for the fact that I can hardly get 250 miles out of a tank, sometimes more like 200. I am a city driver but no one told me this would worse mileage than an SUV. VW doesnt care of course and I am really annoyed. I had a honda before and even when it was old I filled it every 2-3 weeks. Can ANYONE relate??
  • conessconess Posts: 15
    How are you breaking your engine in? I get about 200 miles for half a tank. Do you have a lot of stuff in your trunk? In otherwords alot of weight? If it's city driving, how many miles do you put on? My guess is that you haven't reached a point where you have broken your engine in and the stop and go is killing ur mileage.

    IMHO - You shouldn't exceed 60mph prior to reaching 1000 miles. If you accelerate, ease your engine down. But that's just me.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    What was your actual mpg in the honda and what year, model, and engine was it?
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