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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • Thank you for the advise. I am going to be handling this situation just as you suggested. However, I can not part ways with the car. I've only had it 3 months so there are a few more payments that need to be made on it. Ive had a few other minor issues but they were under warranty and free of charge.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    It is "Standard practice" to charge for hooking you car up to their computer for "diagnosis". If this leads to you paying for a repair.... then the diagnosis charge is waived.

    Otherwise, they would have every Tom, Dick and Harry stoppying by for a free "diagnosis" ... then go home to fix it themselves. Besides, they have to pay for that computer ;-)

    You have several options....
    *)Purchase yourself a VagCom
    *)Go to an autoparts store that offers "pulling the errorcode" for FREE.
    *)Locate a VagCom owner in your area... most are more than willing to hook up your car and run thru the diagnostics.
  • bora1bora1 Posts: 42
    This is still ridiculous if the car is under warranty. If the vehicle is not under warranty, then by all means pay for the diagnosis. The dealer should be able to spend at least 30 minutes with the vehicle before ruling out any fault. This is not the last time missy will go back to them with this problem. Do you mean to say that the dealer should charge her $175 every time they are "unable" to diagnose this problem?? missy knows her car best... she drives it everyday, as opposed to the dealer. It's a pain having to take a new car back to the shop, especially for a big mechanical problem. Missy paid good $$$ for her vehicle and I don't see the need for her to go find herself a VagCom. Stand your ground Missy, and ensure that you're treated fairly by the dealer. Don't allow them to shaft you around. I bet you missy, they will find the fault with your vehicle once it runs out of the manufacturer's warranty. Same kinda scenario happened to me.
  • bora1bora1 Posts: 42
    Isn't it surprising how they (the dealer) will diagnose minor issues and replace them under warranty, but "conveniently" cannot diagnose a malfunctioning transmission problem.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    (bora1) I guess I missed that this vehicle is UNDER WARANTEE.... by all means, there should be no charge for dealer activities on a waranteed vehicle.

    I *can* tell you that I had a nagging problem on my (under warantee) Jetta that only occoured on the first startup in the morning when the nightly temp was below -20F. The dealer was obviously not able to reporduce the CCOOLLDD conditions that caused my ESP light to go on.

    I used my VagCom one morning to capture the conditions and print out the diagnostic results. My dealership gladly accepted this printout and replaced the faulty component.

    Given that my VagCom has also helped to fix several other VWs in the family, I find it paid for itself several times over.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    (missytgould) When dealing with an issue that the dealership cannot easaly reporduce, it is important that you take your car in often and make CERTAIN that all complaints are logged.

    If issues arrive AFTER the formal warantee time-period, there will be a record of your constant complaints. This may give you some recourse to get resolution to the problem.
    I know it is a hassle to take car to dealership just to log a complaint that they will not be able to reproduce... but it may be your only way out.

    Dont forget to KEEP every printout that the dealer gives you when you "complain". They may conventiontly "lose" their paperwork. If you can prove that a "defect" existed during the warantee period, then you may have the law on your side.
  • bora1bora1 Posts: 42
    VERY GOOD POINT Bpeebles :) That's how I was able to win my faulty transmission problem with the dealer and VW of Canada. Records don't lie and they will prove that you have logged a complaint over and over again. In my case, they (dealer) admitted to the problem 3,000 kms after my warranty had run out, and VW was hesitant to honormy extended warranty until legal action was brought up.
  • kylep86kylep86 Posts: 30
    2004 Jetta 1.8t 34,000miles.
    On my way home tonight the the light blinked to say it was overheating. So i looked down and it was was..I couldn't go above 50-55mph before it would touch the red again and blink..You could feel a lag in power, as if to say the turbo was shut off. When i got off my exit, doing anything below 40, it goes back to being normal, and the needle being straight up and down. I'm calling VW monday. Any ideas?
  • 2001 Jetta 1.8T (135,000m)
    Recurring problem(s):

    1) Engine idles a bit high (8,000+rpm) and when the clutch is engaged stopping at a light or stopsign too much gas is fed to engine and car almost stalls out. The tachometer drops below 2,000rpm before "bouncing" back up to about 5,000-6,000rpm. Engine recovers when idling. Usually the Engine light accompanys this problem.

    2) Engine does not idle at a steady rpm, but rather constantly "bounces" between 10,000-18,000rpm feeding gas to the engine. Engine light usually remains on, but sometimes disappears for awhile. EPC light now making an occasional appearance on the dash.

    Need any assistance or ideas as to what the problem(s) may be. Mechanic often can't "duplicate problem" and does his best to diagnose dilemma. Bills starting to pill up replacing parts and eliminating possibilties. HELP!
  • bora1bora1 Posts: 42
    Kylep86, this has happened to me before. It turned out to be a water pump problem. This was replaced under warranty. it could be the same for you. Keep us posted.
  • gambit293gambit293 Posts: 406
    Hi all,

    Here's the story. We just got a standard oil change on Saturday at a non-dealership garage. On Sunday the car began to overheat. We parked it at home, and checked the coolant. The coolant level seemed okay. We checked again maybe an hour later, and the coolant was definitely leaking. The level dropped substantially and we could see the coolant dripping down to the garage floor from the front bumper.

    We have an appointment to bring the Jetta (a 2000 GLS with about 80k) back into the garage. However, to even drive it there, we need to refill the coolant.

    The manual says: "Never use any coolant other than G 12 A8D additive... This coolant is available at your VW dealer... under no circumstance may G12 A8D be mixed with other coolant additives (for example G 11)."

    My main question is: what the heck does "G 12 A8D" mean? We stopped by the auto shop to pick up some coolant. None of the coolant bottles had any markings even remotely resembling that code. We bought a bottle of Prestone DEX-COOL, which I think is orange-colored stuff. The coolant that had been leaking out of the car was orange too.

    Can anyone offer any advice on whether or not the coolant we bought is fine for a jetta? Is it absolutely imperative to use "G12 A8D" or is this just VW trying to milk us for more cash?

    Thanks a ton.
  • Don't know what G 12 A8D means, but I can tell you my mechanic told me NEVER combine another coolant with VW's or else the coolant will gel.
  • I just did a quick search on google searching G12 A8D and it came up with a bunch of forums with the same discussion. Try checking those out. One thing that I did notice is that it says NOT to mix with Dexcool... Hope that helps some. This doesn't seem to be a hoax.
  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    Sorry to report, but you should NEVER use DEX-COOL in a VW. If I were you I would remove the incorrect coolant and replace with the correct VW specified coolant.

    Since the manual says "Never use any coolant other than G 12 A8D additive"...why did you use DEX-COOL?
  • blinebline Posts: 3
    Can you tell me how you resolved your trunk issues?
    I have a 2000 Jetta. Whenever I open and close the driver's door the trunk unlatches. Repair shop has been unable to figure it out so far.

  • blinebline Posts: 3
    Can you guys tell me how you resolved your trunk problem?
    I have a 2000 Jetta. The trunk unlatches whenever I get in the car. Have looked at the sensors in the trunk and drivers door but have been unable to find the problem.

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I commend you for actually READING your owners manual. 8-)

    Actually, you will be "milked for cash" if you DO NOT use G12.... you have been warned. G12 coolant is available at any diecent forigen autoparts store.

    If it is leaking "orange" coolant... the system is already compromized and needs to be totally flushed with distilled water.

    For now - It is OK to add DISTILLED WATER to the cooling system for the short trip to the shop.

    Also make CERTAIN that they use only G12 antifreeze when they are done fixing the leak. Using any other antifreeze can lead to problems down the road.

    If it is not floricent pink when they return the car to you... it has the wrong coolant in it.

    Here are several links to photos of the G12-approved antifreeze. It is produced by several companies. sp
  • I have a 2001 Jetta with 153,000 miles on it and here is a quick explanation of my problems. I ran over something on the road before I entered onto the highway. Everything seemed ok so I proceeded onto the highway. After a few miles the engine coolant light came on and the engine started to over heat. I pulled the side of the road, turned the engine off, and let it cool down for a while. I started back on the road and a few miles down the engine started to overheat again. I repeated the same steps but this time the engine would not turn on again. I ended up having to have the car towed. We found a hole in the radiator which caused the coolant leak.

    Before I decide to have the car looked at and fixed I was wondering if there is a sensor in the radiator which might cause the engine not to start if the coolant is not at a certain level. If anyone might have a clue if there is a sensor or maybe another idea why the car won't start, you expertise would be greatly appreciated.

  • i recently bought a 99 jetta wolfsburg 2.0 5 speed. When accelerating it does not seem to have much power at all. I just replaced the plugs & wires but it did not help. Any ideas anyone?
  • pulgopulgo Posts: 400
    How about using a bottle of fuel injector cleaner?

    If that doesn't work you may need new injectors.

    It could also be as simple as a clogged -never replaced? air filter.
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