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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • My daughter's Jetta died on the road to the airport.
    She just bought it used 3 months ago. 92000 miles on it.
    The Check engine light has a code for rich fuel. Has been on since purchasing it.
    We had it towed to CarX. They did a diagnostic for $70.
    They said it was the fuel pump.
    They wanted $420.00 for part and $70 to install.
    So we towed it by rope behind my son's car to home.
    We bought a pump from TrePerformance on Ebay.
    $80 for part. $40 S&H (Express USPS)
    I put the pump in but slots on bottom will not line up to tabs on bottom of gas tank. It seems only three line up.
    Connected all and still it will not start.
    Took pressure sensor off at front of engine and there is gas there. Also supply line has pressure in it.
    What else could be wrong?
    What else can be wrong and how should I check?

    I tried the old pump while outside of the tank by connecting it to 12v and it seemed to be turning. Of course it may not be up to pressure.

    Thanks for any help.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You car is running WAYY too rich. The possible fixes may include the MAF or ETS. You need to "pull the code" to see what is up.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    It is VERY unlikely that a fuelpump would make engine run rich. I cant think of any way this is possible. (A weak fuelpump *may* cause LEAN running if it is weak.... but not RICH.)

    A fuel-injected engine runs rich if the computer is fed bad information from a sensor. There are several ways to troubleshoot the sensors. (Or just replace the inexpensive ones and hope for the best.)

    Consider the (Engine Temparture Sensor) then the MAF (Mass AirFlow) sensor as the most probable culprits.

    You should have fixed this long ago when you noticed the CEL was on. Your daughter is spending wayy too much in gasoline with the engine running rich. It is well worth taking the time to fix it the right way.
  • Thank you for the information on the MAF and the ETS. I will replace those.
    But what do you think is wrong that it will not start even with enough gas at the fuel pressure sensor?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Basic engine troubleshooting (Which I learned around age 12) says to "read" the sparkplugs.
    This troubleshooting technique holds true if you are working on a 1-cylinder lawnmower...or an exotic 12-cylinder sportscar. (Why do you think that most engine troubleshooting books have several color photos of sparkplug tips in various conditions?)

    By looking at the insulator-tips on the sparkplugs, you should be able to tell a lot about what is going on.

    Another thing I learned around age 12 is that an internal-combustion engine needs only 3 things to run..... compression, ignition and fuel. Using the process of elimination, you should easily be able to determine what the problem is.

    HINT: Determine which of these 3 things is missing ;)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Another hint.... on VWs, you can simply DISCONECT the electrical plug from the MAF (when ignition is OFF!) and see if that improves things. Somtimes, running without any MAF signal at all is better than running with BAD signals from a defective MAF.

    NOTE: Unplugging the MAF will definately cause the CEL to light up. This is because the onboard computer will fall back into a "failsafe" mode to keep the engine running.

    Also, Keep in mind that another sensor (The O2 sensor screwed into the exhaust pipe) can cause rich running.

    Basic lesson about electronic fuel injection:
    The onboard computer monitors the O2 sensor and adjusts the amount of fuel injected to maintain optimum effiency. The signal from the MAF is used to modify the fuel injection based on airflow into the engine.

    Finally, the Engine Temp sensor is used to further modify the injected fuel based on when the engine is cold or hot. A common failure mode is for the ET sensor to tell the conputer that the engine is ALWAYS cold (even when it is hot)... this causes a rich running condition.
  • trueogtrueog Posts: 2
    Hey Guys I need a little help with my 1997 VW Jetta GLS 2.0L
    For the last couple months, when I'm driving my car, inside the cabin area there's a strong exhaust smell that sometimes smells like gas. It seems to be coming in through the vents, and it switches between exhaust smell and a heavy gas smell. It doesn't seem to be leaking gasoline, as I've raised the car and checked. However its fuel consumption right now is out of this world, its horrbile on gas and seems to be dumping raw fuel/ running very rich. I can't seem to figure out what the problem could possibly be. If you guys could give me any suggestions or idea's on what it might be it would make a world of a difference.

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Please read thru my past appends to get your answer... I must have answered this type of question 3 times in the past month.
  • 1vwman1vwman Posts: 14
    Well 1st system too rich would be too much gas...second the mass air meter is a cause for too rich sometimes....
  • 1vwman1vwman Posts: 14
    Mass air meter
  • 1vwman1vwman Posts: 14
    all your lights may be blinking but the slightest bad contact can be the cause...gently hit each light when they are fast and see if the jolt fixes the prob then replace that bulb and socket
  • 1vwman1vwman Posts: 14
    If it was that way from the start the belt would of freyed before 5k....i have seen it before the slightest thing can get thrown up into the belts and damage a pully...and yeah if the dealer turned the pully into vw they would decline the claim...sorry
  • 1vwman1vwman Posts: 14
    its sad but true...1 qt per 1k is the rule...dont agree but they say its ok...I know down the road as the engine breaks in the rings will seal and you will not use as much and the power will get better as well...if it goes over 1qt a re-ring is in order..
  • esmesm Posts: 3
    I will research it, but if you know which forum message number it is would really appreciate it, thanks
  • esmesm Posts: 3
    With engine running rough, will not accelerate and feel like it wants stalls, during morning time and engine is cold, beside the mass air meter, what is the second item that could be the problem???
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    The easiest thing to do is to use the "Search This Discussion" feature on the page bar. You may have missed that, lots of folks do.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Also, you may wish to track the following VW discussions which have lots of good info in them. For the most part... (except for TDI engine) all the VW vehicles are simular.

    *)Volkswagen Beetle Owners: Problems & Solutions
    *)VW Jetta TDI
    *)Jetta Engine Questions
    *)Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair
  • trueogtrueog Posts: 2
    Thanks for the input guys. The problem is solved. No thanks to anyone here, most people on this board don't know shiiit. This board probably has the biggest collection of people asking questions to deaf ears, so honestly do your self a favor and join a proper VW online club...

    I started off by changing OEM Cap/Rotor and Spark Plugs hoping to solve the burning rich problem, and it worked like a charm. Turns out one of my cables was shot, so i must have been running on 3cyc's and the computer was probably compensating for the power loss. This lead to excessive fuel consumption, it was pretty much dumping fuel like a 747 planning a crash landing.

    While I was doing the spark plugs, I noticed my breather hose which looked fine from my viewing side, had actually eroded from the side facing the engine. It had a massive hole in it and i noticed oil residue against the engine. When I removed it, it was fragile and breaking with simple squeezing. I took the part to VW and they quickly found the part for me.

    Cost: $125 for Bosch Spark Plug Cables
    $35 for cap and rotor
    $77 for oil breather hose

    all prices in CDN.

    I had two mechanics(indies) tell me my engine was shot and no one noticed the problems of one cylinder not working and claimed head gasket as reason for oil smell entering through vents. The car runs like brand new right now and the smell is gone.

    p.s. The only reason I did such a massive write up is to show people that you should always take a look your self before listening to a mechanic, i thought I was in for an engine overhaul.
  • Hey every body! It's been awhile since I have been on. I still see an old stalwart:bpeeples is still helping every one. Where's ruking? Anyway, my 03 TDI manual tran with 87k has been running great without the MAF plugged in for the last year and I have been getting great gas mileage (combined 44mpg)Well, I have the 4 year car itch real bad right now (looking to get an 06 Xterra 6sp manual)and I was just ready to put up my car for sale (around 10K)when the belt started squeaking really bad. I took it to my regular mechanic who couldn't isolate the problem. He could see the belt tensioner was leaking slightly and he thought the belt was in good shape. He wasn't sure if it was a bad pulley, belt, or tensioner. So he sprayed the belt down to see if that might help. It didn't. I drove it home and could notice some power surges (the lights would get brighter and you could feel a slight surge like a click) Well, I got it home from work the next day, and then tried to leave an hour later. It started up but when I tried to pull away the power steering was out. I opened up the hood and, sure enough the belt was broken. Is that the only belt? Is it expensive to put in at the dealership? My buddy says he can do it, but it aint gonna be fun? Do you think it was a bad tensioner that caused it? How can you tell? Past experiences anyone? Thanks in advancefor your help?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    glad you got your car fixed.

    It's rather unfair to blame a forum for not being able to fix your car by remote control, and really it sounds like the people who don't know very much are the mechanics you consulted---and THEY had the car in front of them.

    Plenty of people get very good answers here...sorry you didn't.


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