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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I seem to recall once being told by my agent that a single comprehensive claim would not affect my rate. I think he said if you have a series of them then it might.

    Even if it does, it would likely not be all that much, since the full premium for the comprehensive is pretty small to begin with.

    But of course, the better option would be to get it fixed for free under the warranty.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    i was going to fill her up, take a cruise on the highway for an hour or so, and then fill her back up and take note of how much i had to put in and then do the math.

    It may be difficult to know if your result is accurate based on such a short drive. If you go 60 miles, lets assume you actually use 2 gallons. If you are potentially off by even a quart when you refill, this would mean instead of 2 gallons your refill could show 1.75 to 2.25 gallons...resulting in a calculation of anywhere from 27-34 mpg, when actual was 30 mpg.
  • My daughter's waterpump has gone out midway on a trip between Texas and California. Apparently quite a laborious task to replace. While researching online to see if mechanic is being honest with labor, I saw some mentions of the importance of using VW brand coolant only. Is this true for the '98 model? Is it necessary when you are starting fresh, not mixing coolants? Can you switch to regular coolant then?
    Thanks for your input... a concerned mom... cj
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Assuming you know it has never been changed, the coolant that is in a '98 Jetta is called G12. It is very important to not mix conventional coolant (the green stuff) with G12 because the mix will gel. As you can imagine having jello in your cooling system would not be good.

    Some say that you can flush all the old coolant out and then put the cheap stuff in. If it were me, I would not go that route for 2 can you be sure all the G12 is really out? and why would I want to switch to an inferior product?
  • Thanks for the reply Jeffyscott. Actually we don't know whether coolant was changed to regular or not. Daughter mentioned this info to mechanic yesterday and he said he'd take care of it. So hopefully he will.
    Again, thanks. cj
  • My 2001 Jetta 1.8T with 82K miles had the timing belt go on the highway (it should've been changed at 80k). I've been given estimates ranginging from $3-5K to fix valves and head. I already did the clutch at 40K for almost $2K.

    Is it worth it? I don't think I could get as much in a used car for the money it costs to fix it. Does this seem too expensive?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Ouch :sick: ...some recommend timing belt every 60K on VWs.

    $2K seems excessive, to me, for a clutch. It would seem if you are driving the same, you should be needing that again. If so, I'd look for a better price.

    If Edmunds is to be believed, your car is likely worth more that the current repair cost of $3-5K, unless it is in poor condition.

    If you wanted to save some money, you might see if you can get a used engine installed. Another option would be a rebuilt idea what that cost would be for your car. I once checked on this for a completely different vehicle and engine and rebuilt cost was just under $3K from a local operation that specializes in that sort of thing...that came with 3 year warranty (12 months on seals/gaskets).
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    the milage for TB replacement is based on 2 things
    1)Model year
    2)manual/Automatic xmission

    The older models had a lower-milage replacement interval and the newer models had a modified TB and associated pullies which allowed for longer duration between changes. ALWAYS READ THE OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR SPECIFIC VOLKSWAGEN.
  • I concur with bpeebles....

    Here's some more background on the timing belt issue:

    A breaking timing belt is usually the final sequence in a chain of events leading to the breakage.

    1) The original factory Water pump - Usually the #1 culprit if it hasn't been changed by 60-65K. The factory water pump (in VW's infinite wisdom) has an impeller made of plastic which usually starts to disintegrate around 60K. Chances are, pieces of the water pump broke off - which results in the jamming of the belt driven gear section of the waterpump. And since the belt is still moving - that resulted in the shearing and eventual breakage of the timing belt. I had the timing belts changed on my 2003 1.8T Jetta (@ 73,000 miles) and my wife's 2003Passat 1.8T (@65,000 miles), and in both cases, the timing belt had plenty of life left in it (The current timing belts are rated for 100,000 miles) - but the waterpumps were on the verge of disintegration.
    I ordered a complete timing belt kit for each car, which includes the timing belt, serpentine belt, tensioners, and an upgraded Beru waterpump with the metal impeller - which will last at least 100,000 miles (unlike the factory plastic water pump).

    NOTE: As bpeebles mentioned before, the earlier 1.8T models (1998-2002) came with the timing belts with earlier change intervals (usually 60,000 miles). The newer timing belts are rated higher (100,000 miles) - provided the water pump has been changed to the upgraded metal one. In this case, I never go beyond 90,000 miles between timing belt changes.

    2) Sludge. If the motor oil hasn't been changed at the proper 5,000 mile intervals with a minimum VW 502.00 spec oil (NOTE: Every oil on the list is synthetic), or better yet a motor oil that has been approved by VW for the newer 503.01 specification (Mobil 1 0w40, the German-made Castrol Syntec 0w30, etc.), the following events have more than likely happened:

    - Sludge builds up over time, clogging the narrow oil passages
    - The cylinder head quickly wears due to lack of proper lubrication
    - The timing gear tensioner fails - resulting in the timing gears seizing
    - As the timing belt is still moving, it shears (similar to what occurs when the water pump fails) and eventually breaks - leading to the expensive union of pistons and valves.

    I have a network of VW mechanics who consistently described to me the two scenarios above that are the main culprits of timing belt failure. In their experiences, it is VERY rare that the timing belt fails on its own without another component failing beforehand.

    The dealer will tell you that the timing belt broke first, but that is less than likely once you experienced inspecting a timing belt. The belt itself is very thick and of robust construction.


    B.T.W. - A complete timing belt kit (with the metal water pumps), tensioners, serpentine belt, etc. can be purchased for just under $300 at VW sites such as or (as well as other VW-related websites).

    Good Luck..
  • As a first time writer . . . please be patient. I recently purchased a 2002 Jetta 1.8T GLS w/ 57k. One week later, radio doesn't work. I've read of lots of radio problems and the offerings of the Fuse #42 fix. However, this has not worked as my radio does have power to it. Below is a pasted copy of a posting that exactly matches the problems with my radio. I have been unable to find it suggested solutions to this problem. Anything new out there? Suggestions?

    I just recently bought a used 2002 jetta and the radio does not play. The radio will cut on and cut off, it shows me the volume going up and down, when I put in a cd, I see everything functioning as if its reading the cd but no other buttons on the radio works besides the power/volume button. I get no sound and cant change channels, scan, or anything. When I turn the volume all the way down to 0 or minimum, I hear a beep come from the speakers so I think the speakers are hooked up,(but even if the speakers weren't hooked up that still wouldn't explain why no other buttons work) I've read some other forums and topic and keep reading about a safe mode, but my radio is not saying anything about being in a safe mode. Is this possibly another form of the safe mode. Has anyone had or heard of this happening before. If anyone has any info on this please let me know before I go tearing out the radio
  • Hi, like many 2000 VW Jetta VR6's, my Emission light keeps coming on and staying on and there isn't an Emissions problem. I've had my service company repair the computer to only have it do it again.

    My dilemma is I have to get my emissions done this year to renew my tabs, and they only test off the computer, which is faulty. Is there a code I can use to trip the computer and clear it myself without a diagnostics computer? I've heard of some vehicles having a trip code where if you hold the odometer clear button for 10 seconds, then turn the ignition on and hold the odometer button again, that it will clear the computer? Is this possible...I need to get me tabs!

    I already had my computer cleared at my service center, but at the emissions they said they couldnt get a reading because the code hadn't been cleared. Then the light came back on after 20 miles.
  • How many miles do you have on the car?
  • 2001 Jetta has humming sound that increases and decreases with speed? Quiet when sitting still. Any ideas?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I already had my computer cleared at my service center, but at the emissions they said they couldnt get a reading because the code hadn't been cleared. Then the light came back on after 20 miles.

    It sounds like they probably were getting a "not ready" reading. When you reset the light, it takes some time to go through everything and decide if it should turn back on. If they will not pass you when the light says "not ready" reseting light by any method is not going to help. You will have to fix whatever is causing the light to go on (or sell the car to someone in an area that does not have emissions testing).

    In my state if your car says not ready they put you on the dynamometer and test actual emissions. However, if you already went for the test and failed based on CEL light, then they will not do that when you go back for retest. This happened to my kid, his CEL light in Jetta came on between the time he got out of the car and the test station tech plugged it in. Then when he went back after fixing the problem car said "not ready" and they said he had to drive it until it was ready...they would not do the dynamometer thing.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Is in increasing with rpm of the engine or with the speed of the car itself? You can test this by seeing if the sound stays the same when you take your foot off the gas and coast.
  • Seems to stay steady, separate from RPMs. Car is shifting fine, I wondering if it's the catalytic converter?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Sounds like it is not engine related, then. Might be wheel bearing or axle...I've have had humming noises in cars that turned out to be caused by that.

    Sometimes bearing noise will get worse when you turn one way and better when you turn the other.
  • I'm up in Wisconsin and it's very, very windy today. I ran into a store and when I came out, the front emblem of my 06 Jetta was laying on the ground. I throughly checked my car and there doesn't appear to be damage to anything other than the area that holds the emblem (the plastic is cracked). Even the emblem isn't scratched. Could this possibly be covered under warranty as a defect? If not, what do you think I'm looking at as far as repair costs? Thank you.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    If your car is still under warantee... I do not see why it would not be covered. When I purchase a new car, I often have several little items like this come up and they have always coverd under warantee.

    That is what a warantee is for.... to cover manufacturer defects.

    Some of the items that were covered under warantee for me;
    *)numbers on manual-xmission shift-knob were becoming smudged with use.
    *)Water droplets forming inside headlight-housing
    *)Oil leaking from trunk-opener pistons.
    *)Poor radio reception (turns out that water was leaking around antenna)
  • whizywhizy Posts: 1
    i have same issue since last 2 days & tired driving in 3rd gear, please let me know if this issue solved...
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