Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Assuming you "wound down" the internal guts of the rear calipers using the proper tool -
    Adjust the parking brake, using the following procedure. (car sitting still!)

    1) Pump up the footbrake until it is solid. (remove 'slack' from calipers by seating the pads to the rotors.)
    2)With foot off of pedal, apply and release the parking brake lever about 7-10 times.

    The above should set the internal guts of the rear calipers so the parking brake is adjusted correctly.

    NOTE: If the rear calipers were NOT wound down correctly to reset the parking-brake mecanism.... most likely the rear calipers are now junk and need to be replaced.
  • Thanks for the feedback. I am in the process of making an appointment as I send this reply. Some other issues plague this car and if you have an answer it would be appreciated. !. No significant shift from 3rd to drive. 2. Air bag warning light on since purchase. 3. Check engine light on and off since purchase. I think the O2 sensor is involved with the check light, goes out when refueling with premium. Other than that all else seems ok. And again, thanks for your input.
  • It only doesn't want to start when i'ts cold. Do you know of a way to isolate the ignition coil to see if its bad?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    With engine idling, hood open, engine-cover removed... Use spritzer-bottle to slightly moisten the coilpack(s) and ignition wires. If engine stumbles at all... your coilpack or ignition wires are leaking high-voltage. (Causing sparkplug(s) to misfire)

    Same conditions, In the dark. (no spritzer bottle this time) Look for arcing/sparking under the hood near the ignition components.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085

    1) Use VagCom to isolate problem
    2) Use VagCom to isolate problem
    3) Use VagCom to isolate problem

    For your question #3 - I suspect the MAF is the problem.
  • thanx, i preciate it. that'll help alot. where is the coil pack at? i have no prob finding wires and distributor cap. is the coil where the center wire from distributor goes to?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I am not sure your 99 VW has a distributor. In any case - follow the ignition wires from the sparkplugs. Wherever they emminate from is the source of the high-voltage (the coil)
  • I didn't realize the date of your post so I guess it's probably fixed by now. Oh well, I just got my car fixed with the same problem. It was the electrical portion of the ignition switch.
  • amacdamacd Posts: 1
    I stupidly put on my wipers before removing some heavy snow. They stopped functioning. I pulled the fuse out and saw that it was blown. I replaced it, and as soon as I turned on the electrical system, the fuse blew again. What should I do next?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You can try unplugging the wiper-motor and see if the fuse blows again. If not... the problem is the motor - or the moving-parts are sticking.

    The 'rotor' where each wiper rotates is known to get corroded. Your 1998 is right on schedule to need some lubrication.
  • I have a 99 Jetta 2.0 engine99K miles I had a shop install a new timing belt and now I have a large oil leak I have taken the car back twice and still have a leak the shop stated that the cam seal has no spring inside like the crank seal. Do any of you know of a fix for this

    Thanks Jerry
  • Just wanted to inform you that the brake light switch was the culprit and it was a recall item that the dealer replaced and now good to go.
    Thanks for your help, and all others who replyed with input.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    replace the seal
  • the seal has been replaced twice the shop said the seal has no spring inside
  • I have an 03 jetta with the same issues. The only difference is the wheel does not lock per se but I do smell what I thought was rubber burning from driver rear wheel. I got new tires on it and now the smell is worse. I looked at the rotor and pads and they appeared fine. Let me know what you find or how you fixed the problem if you can. Thank you.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Ignore the spring (or lack therof) as long as the proper seal (from VW) is being installed, then the spring is of no cocnequence.

    If proper seal is being installed, then suspect there is a burr on the sealing surface which is damaging the seal causling leakage.

    Also, this may seem like a silly question..... are you aboslutely certain that the leakage is from the seal? (Perhaps the leak is from elsewhere)
  • Dear Forum,

    Occasionally my brakes seem to shudder or stutter when applied. It was pretty rare (I have owned it since March 2006) but seems to be happening more often (about three times in the last month). I think it might be affecting my breaking speed just a little bit.

    It is still under warranty but unfortunately the places authorized to do to warranty repair in my area (I just moved to San Francisco) have extremely bad and numerous customer reviews online. I found a couple of places that have great reviews but since they are not authorized, I would have to pay for repairs.

    Any information about this weird braking problem be much appreciated. I checked previous posts but did not find any information about this. I wish I could contribute back with some helpful answers to some of the other questions on this forum, but I don't know anything about cars.

    One last thing -- also, in the last month, antifreeze warning light has started to come on when I first turn on the car in the morning. If I turn off the car, then turn it on again, warning light does not come on again.

  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    On the antifreeze, have you looked at the level in the resevoir under the hood? If not you should check that when it is cold. Do not add anything other than water (prefeably distilled) or the proper coolant, which should be G12 (unless you or a previous owner flushed the system and replaced it with a lesser coolant).

    The braking issue couldn't just be the ABS kicking in, could it?

    BTW, brakes may not be covered by warranty if it happens to be just worn pads/rotors.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    If this is happening under hard braking in the rain (which you've had a lot of lately) that could very well just be the ABS system doing its job. If it occurs during light braking on dry pavement, then you might have warped rotors IF you can feel it in the steering wheel.

    Visiting Host


Sign In or Register to comment.