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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,427
    coolant temperature sensor malfunction. That would be a good one to check.


  • searlestsearlest Posts: 1
    Hello just purchased a 2000 jetta (for my 17 yr old daughter) with a 2.8 L VR-6 engine odometer reads 150,000 miles car is non running seller advised VW dealer ship advised timing belt was broke.

    I just ordered a Chilton’s manual from Amazon.

    Could someone pleas advise on best place to purchase parts? What should be the average price for parts? I have found a timing belt kit with water pump on E bay for $220.00

    It also would appear that it is commonplace to replace water pump when replacing timing belt? Please advise!

    Would also like input about chip up grade for HP and mileage.

    This is the first VW car I have owned so if someone would like to give any other advice I would be grateful!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,427
    I think you should let a professional do this job. It isn't easy, lots of labor, disassembly (front grille and bumper come off if I recall rightly) and if I remember correctly this is an interference engine, so if the belt broke there is a good chance you have bent all the valves in the engine. AT THE LEAST, have a professional evaluate the damage before you proceed. If you need new heads, water pump, belt, tensioners, head gaskets, etc., that might run $3,500. If the pistons hit the valves hard enough, you will need a new engine which suggests perhaps not repairing the car.

    Maybe you'll be lucky and all that's broken is a tensioner and not the belt. Somebody needs to check this engine out before you starting orderingn parts or unbolting things.


  • bham757bham757 Posts: 1
    I recently had a new heater core installed into my 95' Jetta III VR6. It took 6 days for the mechanics to install it, and cost me $650 dollars, but that is not the problem. After driving my car no more than 30 miles my car began to smoke and leak coolant, so I took my car back to have it looked at. After checking out the problem the mechanic told me that I have a broken heater hose and it would cost me $250 to fix it. I then asked if the new heater core had anything to do with the heater hose breaking and he said that normally the pressure from a new heater core will rupture old heater hoses. Before I go back to the mechanic, is there anyone who can tell me if replacing the heater hose is involved in the process of replacing a heater core. I have been trying to search the web for answers but had no luck finding anything, and I don't have a Haynes Book for my car. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,427
    It depends which heater hose broke and where. The heater hoses ARE connected to the heater core, but that's under the dash or at the firewall. If the hose broke at the water pump or some other place, it would be difficult to hold the mechanic responsible. I suppose he would have wiggled the hoses around but that shouldn't break them.

    Tell you what---he'd better be able to show you a broken hose. If the hoses aren't split, one might have to suspect a loose hose clamp, which could be the mechanic's fault. Old heater hose looks OLD---cracks, splits, etc.

    But replacing heater hoses on a car this old is not a bad idea and is probably good preventive maintenance.


  • we changed the gas cap and so far 200.9 miles that light is still off. knock on wood. I hope it stays off. thanks for the info, we will keep you posted. :)
  • we changed the gas cap and so far 200.9 miles that light is still off. knock on wood. I hope it stays off. thanks for the info, we will keep you posted.

    well i spoke too soon. 210.8 miles and the check engine light came back on with the same code. running lean. have you got any other ideas? we appreciate the info about the gas cap, at least it was worth a try.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    A bad gascap would NEVER affect the "running lean" condition... it would affect the EVAPERATIVE EMMISSIONS diagnostics.

    Did you consider the other high-flyers that could affect a "running lean" condition?

    *)MassAirFlow sensor (MAF)
    *)Airleak in intake system
    *)O2 sensor(s)
  • I had the same problems six times had car towed in because was leased! Found out it was the brake safety switch..VW re-manufactored the switch 12/07. I had a case opened and received one for my car. No more problems with that. Just Engine light on and decreased power. I had no other problems with car until VW did work on two months later engine light on and decreased power and slight miss first stop in mornings? Good Luck.
  • we have been to two vw dealerships and have had a lot of work done and both have said there is nothing wrong with the 02 sensors or the MAF sensor. we have suggested that to both dealerships and they looked at us like we were crazy and not to question them. needles to say, we are doing the work now and we will check for ourselves. will keep you posted. thanks for you info, we need all the help we can get since we have spend 100s already...thanks,
  • I have a 2003 Jetta and need to put a new cluster in but AllData is unclear on procedure for R&R - can you point me in direction of where you found out what's involved? Thanks!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I truly hope part of the "100s" you have spend was on a VagCom.

    A VagCom is perhaps the ONLY way to isolate your problem. And you would now own a VagCom so you can troubleshoot future problems.

    For me, my VagCom paid for itself several times over within a year. (Family has 3 VWs). In several cases, I was able to use VagCom to print out the failure and show to the VW dealership who in-turn covered the replacement parts under warantee.

    Peraps those "crazy looks" you are getting from the dealerships would be wiped off their face once you SHOW them you know what the problem is.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,712
    ..."Peraps those "crazy looks" you are getting from the dealerships would be wiped off their face once you SHOW them you know what the problem is. "...

    Now that would make going to a dealer FUN!
  • Isn't that the truth. That would be glorius. The stories we have been told everytime we go to the dealership is just that!
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    To be quite honest, after the warranty ends, I wouldn't go anywhere NEAR a dealership outside of recalls and TSBs. I would look for a private VW mechanic, or better yet, a tuner who specializes in VWs. The service department at most dealerships are designed to get as many cars in, service them quickly, and get them out the door. Thourough diagnostics seem to be an afterthought - especially if they encounter a "squeaky wheel" type customer. The service department tends to tell that type of customer anything to get them out of the door (never to return to the premises).

    Between my trusty VAG-COM and one of three VW mechanics that I go to (in my area), my trips to the dealership have become few and far between (save for recalls and TSBs, of course....:) )
  • Thanks for that info. We bought the car used and bought an extended warranty for the car so my husband wouldn't have to work on it, but due to all the stories and all the money we have spent we have canceled the warranty and my husband is now working on my Jetta. Needless to say, he has been a mechanic for 30 years we were just trying to have something he didn't have to work on. He replaced the timing belt, water pump and did a few other things this weekend and I feel more comfortable with his work than the vw dealer. At least I know it is fixed and he will tell me the truth. The last vw dealer we carried the car to took the two small grills off the front bumper and hit the rearend and then denied doing it. There were bolts missing and several other things. No one wants to do anything about it either believe you's wrong-I called the corporate office of vw and they just took my statement...go figure.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    Not a problem... :shades:

    VWs tend to last a long time when properly maintained - so I think you'll be much better off having your husband maintain the vehicle (as opposed to the dealership where customers are treated like cattle)...

    Good luck....
  • cosmocosmo Posts: 203
    What you say regarding VW dealers in general may be be largely true, but each dealer should be judged individually. I have gone soley to the VW dealer for service and repairs since the late 1980's because the two premier VW/Audi technicians in town closed their shop and went to work for the dealer. I trust them more than the remaining independent shops. True, the guys who do the oil changes usually give me an extra liter that I have to suck out and use later to top off, but that's become a running joke between me and the service manager.
  • I understand that there may be some good vw dealers out there, but we haven't found one yet. They stole parts off my car, hit my car and left bolts out and the list could go on and on. If you have a tech that is putting too much oil in your car at the oil change and you are having to suck it out-something is wrong with that picture because over filling your your car with oil will blow seals. My Jetta is finally running good since my husband has been working on it. We plan on purchasing the VagCom soon which should also help.
  • eggenseggens Posts: 2
    Hi, I'm in the middle of changing the clutch on my son's 1997 Jetta. The kit I bought (that was for multiple years) came with a throwout bearing, but I didn't see anything that looked like one during disassembly. I saw something posted on another site that mentioned certain Jetta transmissions not having a throwout bearing.

    I just want to be sure before I reasemmble, as this project has been a huge pita. Anyone know anything that might help?
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