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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    Do you have the Wolfsburg with the 2.0T or the 5 cylinder?

    If you have the 2.0T, you should use the better synthetic oils that conform to VW's newer 503.01 specification. These oils provide superior protection for turbocharged engines. The following oils on this list available in the U.S. include:

    1) Castrol Syntec 0W-30 European Formula (must say Made in Germany on bottle) - which you can find at the Auto Zone.

    2) Mobil 1 0W-40 European formula - found at most auto stores.

    If you have the 5-cylinder, then the motor oils conforming to VWs 502.00 spec (the list that jeffyscott e-mailed you) will suffice. The factory fill for this engine is Castrol Syntec 5W-40.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    There's a 503, too? When did that one appear?

    ...just curious because I found another list which says it is "engine oils which currently meet Volkswagen Oil Quality Standard VW 502 00, VW 505 01 and VW 504 00/507 00." But no mention of a 503.01, it's from an October 2007 VW TSB.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,488
    I believe the VW 507.00 is the latest and greatest and can go up to 30,000 miles before changing!!
  • ndmike88ndmike88 Posts: 154
    Doesn't the '08 Wolfsburg only come with the 2.0 turbo??? I've had good luck with Mobil1 so I guess I'll stick with it.
    Talked to the service manager and he said if I bring in the oil and filter, they will only charge me $15.00 to change the oil and dispose of the old stuff.
  • YES, SAME CAR same problem, and they told me the same thing, I m getting second opinions from a non-VW mechanic, one told me that older cars are belt driven but that VW was prob. electronic, mine hovers around 45 though, and that tach works it just isnt accurate, let me know what you find out
  • kg66kg66 Posts: 1
    I recently changed the battery in my 2002 Jetta GLS 2.0. I didn't us a "memory saver" since it wasn't mentioned in the owner's manual, but since then, I have noticed a loss of power and crappy gas mileage. Should I have used a memory saver, and if so, what can I do about it now, or is this only a coincidence, and it's likely I have more serious problems.
  • lentelocolenteloco Posts: 5
    I'm thinking of upgrading the exhaust system on my 97 jetta GLS 2.0 but don't know what company or brand to go with can anyone help.. I was looking at either neuspeed, borla, flowmaster, magnaflow? magnaflow and neuspeed are pretty expensive but have lifetime guarantee, and from what I know which is not a lot i've seen these on euro tuner cars unlike flowmaster, I don't know much about borla, can anyone help? oh yea I forgot to mention I don't want one that makes an extreme amount of noise...

  • acatt55acatt55 Posts: 1
    I own a '03 Jetta Wolfsberg, my check engine light is on and it is for low engine coolant or a sensor. Problem is the coolant is fine and if it is the sensor which one is it and where is it located?

    :sick: :sick: :sick:
  • does anyone have some detailed pictures of a 95 jetta engine 2.0? overhead, sideview, rearview, anything...i seem to be missing an elbow at the back of the engine i think its a vacuum line, but im not sure. i just want to double check that i have everything hooked up right and my chilton catalogue doesnt show any pictures i can use...thanks
  • jayphatjayphat Posts: 2
    Well, there is good news and bad news. Good news is, not the MAF, O2 sensor, coils, or fuel pump. Bad news, is the local garage here said "i am going to recommend you take it to VW because we think its related to the turbo." My assumption is the wastegate is stuck open, thats why its running rich and feels like there is no power. Oh, and the local garage didn't charge me to diagnose any of that stuff.
  • surfmansurfman Posts: 11
    Could you please e-mail the list to me. Just bought an '04 Jetta GL 2.0L> Thanks
  • srr2008srr2008 Posts: 1
    I have been having a problem getting my Jetta out of 'park.' It is a 1999 automatic and it has had zero problems so far. When it is hot outside or it has been sitting for a few hours it gets stuck in park. I have been told that I have to floor the brake pedal and the light should go off allowing me to shift it. This is true sometimes. If I push the brake really hard to the floor it will click off after about 5 mintues. Have any of you ever had this occur? And what did you do to fix it?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,081
    coolant "level" is snesed by 2 prongs sticking into the top of the fluid within the plastic resivour. There is an electrical plug on the side of the resivour that connects to the 2 prongs inside the tank. It is virtually IMPOSSIBLE for this to break in any way. The fluid is either touching the prongs or not touching them.... it is that simple.

    If the fluid is low, you may add less than a cup of DISTILLED water. If it needs more fluid than that, then you need to add G12 antifreeze.
  • I just bought an '03 Jetta in January. I replaced an antifreeze hose right off the bat. Then I had two coils go bad. Replaced those. Then my check engine light went on. I replaced the coolant temperature sensor and cleared the code. Everything seems to be fine now. Is there any reason that I am getting 20mpg? On the freeway, it goes up to 25 mpg. My owners manual says I should be getting 36.2mpg. I have been getting this mpg since I bought the car in January.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,081
    Is there any reason that I am getting 20mpg?

    It is obvious there must be a reason... the bigger question may be *why*?.

    Off the top of my head, I can think of 20 reasons *why*.

    Top 3 may be;
    1) Your driving style
    2) Dragging brakes
    3) MAF sensor

    You did not mention what engine you have, I can surmise you have the 1.8 turbo because it is the only engine which VW offers has individual coils AND can acheive 36MPG. you really need to keep your throttle foot out of the turbocharger to get good MPG. Sure, it it fun to kick in the turbocharger... but you pay the price in poor MPG. Also the 1.8T MUST be fed with hi-test gasoline. Regular gasoline will eventually destroy the engine. I am sure you read that in the owners-manual too.
  • microjmicroj Posts: 10
    I have a 1998 Jetta GLS 2.0L 5 speed manual transmission. I have always used high test gas but with prices going up and up I was wondering if I would be doing serious damage to switch to regular unleaded fuel?
  • Hey guys...Ive been reading many of these posts, and they are mostly very helpful, so thx for educating those of us who need it. I have an '03 Jetta, 2.0, basic...has 71000 mi. When I start up, and the car is in idle, the temp. gauge is fine...for sometime after even. Once I get her on the road, driving at say, 30-40 MPH, the temp. gauge increases slowly (over the 190). But when I am coming down a hill, or at a red light (whenever I am NOT applying the gas pedal), the temp. gauge gives back (slowly) whatever increase she had. However, if I try to drive on the highway, or driving up a hill, or anytime I apply the gas pedal somewhat forcefully, the temp. gauge increases to the point where the Engine/Coolant indicator comes on. But again, even when the temp. gauge is all the way to the right (260), if I stop the vehicle, or in anyway am NOT applying the gas, the temp. gauge slowly decreases, to the point where the indicator light will turn off. ( By slowly, I mean 30 sec. -2 minutes or so) Does anyone think its may be a faulty sensor? Or thermostat? Or do I need to replace the water pump? The antifreeze "tank" is not at critical levels, but is a tad low. No I have not used any other antifreeze, but have also had minimal maintenance on my vehicle with regards to engine issues anyhow. Any ideas, please? For what its worth, your helping out a soldier who is about to go to Iraq in a month, but I want my car running properly before I "store" her for 15 months. Thank you in advance whoever can offer some guidance.
  • derek11derek11 Posts: 1
    I'm looking at a 2001 Jetta 4D GLS 2.0L Automatic (53k miles) offered for 6,500 at a dealership. The car facts report shows the following repairs every 5 months in 2002 and and month after month (4 repairs) in 2003.
    The repairs are (each item repaired on a different visit) as follows: 1)Tire Serviced. 2) Wheel(s) Replaced. 3) Rear Brake Pads Replaced. 4) Rear Brake Pads Replaced. 5) Two Wheels Alligned. 6) Suspension Serviced. 7) Brakes Serviced. The owner sold after 3 years 7 mos. No Accident reported.
    The 2nd owner's record does not contain any repairs.
    What could have caused those repairs? Is that quite normal, or is the car a lemon?
    I'd appreciate any advice please..
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,081
    The 1998 2.0 does not require hi-test. You may use RUG (Regulare Unleaded Gas) without concequence.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,081
    By your description, it sure sounds as if your thermostat is not controlling the engine temparture the way it is supposed to. It is cheaper to replace the thermostat than the waterpump.

    The waterpump is installed into the engine where it is driven by the timingBelt. To replace it, it is most economical to also replace timingBelt, pullies, tensioner and all other moving components in there at the same time. With 71K miles, you are getting close to the time to replace all that stuff anyway.
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