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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    Thanks for responding. My son't Jetta ended up being a bad starter and was strong 98% of the time. I paid $270 to an independent shop for taking apart and cleaning all electrical connection under steering wheel and under the battery tray. I had the mechanic have the car for about 8 days and drive it every day and on weekends. It never acted up fo him. he had read and cleared all the stored codes. They thought it was the fuel pump relay, but did not want to replace it unless they determined it was the problem.

    After I picked up the car, two weeks later, it acted up again. The mechanic that worked on it, came to my house and did all his tests and determined it was the starter. I replaced the started myself, $180 new with lifetime warranty from Napa. The car has been fine since then.

    Electrical problems are tough to diagnose and I am not worked up about spending $270 and not them finding the problem the first time.

    Joe
  • fws4fws4 Posts: 5
    My '00 Jetta simply shut down while driving and will not restart. Starter spins with strange noise, high pitched with a squeak when it stops. Replaced the timing belt and water pump - the timing belt was missing 6-8 inches worth of teeth. This did not fix the problem. The enging turns, maybe a little slowly - I can see the timing belt turn since I left off the upper cover for now. Same noise mentioned above. My next step would be the starter, but since the engine is turning...? Could the starter be 'weak' or binding, resulting in the noise? Also, the engine was about 1.5 quarts low on oil, a problem getting worse as mileage goes up (currently 190k miles), and I've had an antifreeze leak due to that wonderful Dexcool, but no sign of it in the oil. Any help appreciated.
  • Thanx much!! I have my manual but guess I missed a lot of that. Draining the water from the filter every 5000 mi?!?!? OOOOpp!! Now I know!! I'm learning a lot here!!
  • Awesome info, thanx!! :shades:
  • I am having this same issue with my 2000 Jetta V6. Does anyone have any suggestions?

    Re:My VW Jetta GLS (automatic) is giving me a new issue today. It started hesitating while the "Check Engine" light blinked continuously. As I was driving the car it would hesitate and would have a hard time accelerating and then at times it felt like it would finally shift into gear and would start driving normally again only to once again continue with the same pattern of hesitating, etc. When I would stop at a light it kept vibrating and hesitating. Do you all have any idea what issue I may be having?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    A blinking CEL is a sign of IMMENENT DAMAGE to some component of your drivetrain. (Like unburned fuel getting into the catalyst thus burning it to a crisp.)

    From your description of "vibrating and hesitating"...that sure sounds like one of the cylinders is not firing. A misfiring cylinder could send unburned fuel into the exhaust system.

    A CEL which is just "ON" is considerd OK to drive while a vehicle with a BLINKING CEL should not be driven.
  • Hi I have a 2001 Volkswagen Jetta with a 2.0 Engine. The check Engine light came on late last year....but after many tune ups, many mechanics found nothing wrong with the car. I got a reading from an Emissions Test that said my system was too lean....I've run an Octane Boost and am currently attempting to run a full tank of 93 Premium BP gas through my engine. The light is still on. Why needs to be done at this point. What has usually been the case for 2001 VW Jettas?
  • My daughters ' 98 VW Jetta, will only shift if you let up off the gas. This goes for all gears. Once in gear it drives fine until the next gear up. All gears going down are found without any hesitation on the trans axle. Any help? Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    bpeebles is right, this needs attention right away. Being a VW, one is tempted to toss off the suggestion of checking the ignition coils, as these are always suspect on a VW and they would cause this symptom. The codes should be read to verify this.

    MODERATOR

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    I'd certainly start by checking the fluid level and if that's okay, have a transmission service done and see if that helps. Could be worn out internal seals, a sticking valve in the valve body, some kind of pressure issue....dunno without more testing.

    MODERATOR

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    If the light is on, there should be a code stored in the computer. Ask them to clear the light, then when it comes on again, read the code. Might be as simple as an 02 sensor.

    MODERATOR

  • ok...so I don't think it's the O2 sensor because today, I checked the spark plugs and they were all completely burned!!....I last time they were changed was in Fall 2007 I believe....maybe earlier..But it was definitely in spring or fall of 2007. After I did that...I reset the Check Engine light sensor and drove for about 50 miles. the light remained off....so things are getting there...but now I went back to the auto parts store to have them hook their code computer to my car. The Too lean and Catalyst issues are not showing up anymore....but now there is a "Fuel Injector problem in Cylinder 2". The Technician asked if I had just put gas in my car...I told him that I put Premium 93 BP gas +Octane Booster in my car. He Said that that shouldn't trigger the Fuel Injector Code, though. However..THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS STILL OFF!!!...So What do I need to do now?.....because I have a week left before I need to go back to the EMissions place to get my car retested for free before my tag expires. So Let me know ASAP!!! Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    So the light's off...why can't you just get tested now?

    What exactly did you mean your spark plugs were "burned"? What color were the tips? Brown and crusty? Black? Gray ash-like? Were they all the same condition?

    MODERATOR

  • Yeah, the plugs were a very dark brown and quite crusty. I believe it was time for them to be changed anyway....It had been about 60,000 miles since they were last changed. With it being an older model car...they probably should have been changed sooner. I'm going to just let the 93 premium fuel run through the system til Thursday to see how the check Engine Light is doing and to clean out the fuel system as much as i can. then I'll take it back to the emissions. Also, it's pretty cold in GA Right now....how much does temperature play in all of this, you think?....
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    Before you do an emissions test, you should have been running the car HARD and HOT on the highway. You can also buy this "pass emissions" snake oil and some techs tell me it can work in certain cases. They (the snake oil maker) give you your money back if you fail, so why not?

    MODERATOR

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I would put MONEY on the fact that your MAF (Mass AirFlow) sensor is failing. There was a "factory extended warantee" on your MAF because VW knew there was a problem with MAF.

    BOTH of my daughters 2001 VWs had their MAF replaced for free under this "extended warantee".

    Since I have a VagCom , I was able to diagnose their bad MAF. (running lean and/or rich)

    One way to help diagnose a bad MAF is to disconnect the electrical wire and drive the car. If it runs better, the MAF is definatly bad.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Sparkplugs which are "dark brown and crusty" are NOT considerd "burnt".

    A "burnt" sparkplug would be bright white on the tip because everything except the ceramic has burned off of it.

    A competnet mechanic can "read" sparkplugs and determine a lot about the condition of an engine. (fuel mixture, rings, valvestem seals, ignintion system, fuel grade...etc)

    Too bad there are not many COMPETENT mechanics around anymore.... many of them just hook computer to car and have little clue how to REALLY diagnose a problem. Also, many of them are paid based on HOW MANY PARTS THEY SELL and not by HOW MANY CARS THEY FIX.

    I have always wanted mechanics to be paid based on FIXING a problem... (not on TRYING to fix it) 8-)

    With that said - If all of your sparkplugs look about the same condition, this DOES NOT point to an ignition nor a mechanical problem and instead points to somthing IN COMMON to all of the cylinders. (MAF sensor, O2 sensor...etc.)
  • Hey Thanks!!...I will look into that tomorrow. But I have the manual here and there are apparently two MAF sensors: LOW INPUT and HIGH INPUT

    Which one?....and how could you tell?....is there a separate electric wire for both of them?

    And What do you mean, "If it runs better..."? Because the car runs fine....it's smooth and shifts consistently for the most part...but the Auto Parts Store Computer Reading was giving the Too Lean/Fuel Injector problem reading.....so how would I do that?.....would I run it without the sensor and see if the Auto Parts store Computer give the All systems Pass Reading (or whatever the technical term for all systems pass)?....Would the computer show the MAF sensor as "CANNOT BE READ" if I disconnect it?....Let me know....thanks....I seriously think this might be the problem.
  • Yeah...I will look into the MAF Sensor tomorrow....but if the spark plugs weren't bad....then why has the Check Engine Light gone off and STAYED OFF?....That's what baffled me.....even though the reading on the Auto Parts Store Machine said Fuel Injector problem. I thought long and hard about taking my Jetta to a VW dealer...but it would have been $106 just for a further examination and possible dianosis. I just wasn't sure I was up for that...what with being a College Student and all lol
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    Once again, any diagnostic machine is only as good as the person using it. People are throwing parts at your car and hoping that one sticks, sounds like. Not being there, I can't start a "diagnostic tree", but basically such a "tree" is a system of logic wherein the...ahem...technician tests THIS, and if not THIS, then he/she goes to THAT....and if not THAT...and so on, starting from most likely to least likely based on the initial codes from the machine. Each THIS or THAT has a value to be read, or a function to be tested, to eliminate it or accuse it of the crime.

    So what i'm saying is that a code that says something like "misfire" or "bad injector" could be caused by many things, and the idea is not to replace all those things at once and then say "see, I solved it" (at the owner's great expense).

    MODERATOR

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