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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • djt_jettadjt_jetta Posts: 3
    My mechanic told me not to worry 'bout the CPS.
    For his sake, I hope I'm right! :mad:

    Thanks for the advice!

    PS I don't know many VW owners that don't have a constant CEL to guide them on their way.
  • sphinx1983sphinx1983 Posts: 12
    I have a 2001 Jetta 1.8 Turbo 5-speed manual. I have had nothing but trouble since I bought it. 27 Times in the shop for CEL. Only had car since Nov 2007 :sick: :lemon: Anyway my question CEL is on again diagnosis O2 sensor fuel too lean blah blah blah, does anyone know which is the Bank one O2 sensor? I want to buy the right one but I understand there is one before and one after Cat. If anyone knows please tell me. They are a little pricey and non returnable so I have to get it right the first time. Thanks!!!! And just a little message to all who have "driven and fell in love" BE VERY VERY CAREFUL!!! like all first loves it can cost you very very big!!! :)
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    The sensor is not necessarily telling you that the sensor is bad.

    This assumption is kind of like assuming that the temperature guage is bad because it says your car is over heating. In my analogy, yes it could be a bad guage, but then again it could be that the engine is, in fact, too hot.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,083
    I suspect your MAF (MassAirFlow sensor) is the problem. I have seen it before on 2001s. ==> CLICK HERE AND READ IT
  • sphinx1983sphinx1983 Posts: 12
    Take it from me "Kid" STAY AWAY!!!!!! BE VERY AFRAID!!!!!! :lemon: I too have bought my first car I am 25 though. I went to Hall Acura and the salesman talked me right into a 2001 VW Jetta Wolfsburg edition 5-speed manual tran. yeah it is "smokin hot" but I had mine exactly 1 week and then it happened the CEL NIGHTMARE BEGAN!!!!! The car has been in the shop 27+ times since I bought it in Nov 2007 and it still is not right. To this day it is sitting in my driveway once again BROKE DOWN!!!! :sick: :confuse: I have spent well over $2500.00 in repairs that are (wouldn't you know it?) :mad: not covered under the (what I was told) the BEST extended warranty money could buy. :mad: :mad: So play it safe stay away from VW's (at least the Jetta) and try honda or saturn or something like that. My Mom had bought me a Ford Probe for graduation. It was used but it was a beautiful car I had it for 6 years I put a small amount of work into it along with regular maintence and I sold it for $300.00 after I saw and was roped into the Jetta. I have never been so mad at myself. So really be careful and if you research on the computer all the car forums you will see that they are nothing but trouble. I hope I have saved you some heartache, and money. Good Luck Man!!!!
  • sphinx1983sphinx1983 Posts: 12
    No I don't think so as I just paid $485.00 to have that replaced about 3 months ago. I know from the Computer checks it says the O2 sensor in bank one is bad and causing a miss fire. I just need to know which one is "bank one" Is it before the Cat or after it. Thanks though. I also paid #385.00 for new wires, plugs, filters, so on and so on this car is a CASH COW!!!! :mad: Soon I will have paid as much in repair bills as I paid for it, or should say am still paying for.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,083
    O2 sensor DOES NOT cause misfire.... it is the other way around. A misfire can allow raw fuel into the exhaust thus cause the O2 sensor to read improperly.

    You would do well in heeding the above post warning you that it is most likely NOT the O2 sensor that is the problem.

    You are also mis-interpeting what "bank1" means. If you have a 4-cylinder engine - then there is only 1 bank. (sensor1 and sensor2)

    If you have the VR6 engine... then you would have 2 banks - each with 2 O2 sensors. (and 2 cats)

    In all cases, the sensor BEFORE the cat is monitoring the status of the engine and feeding back to the injectors. The sensor AFTER the cat is monitoring the efficency of the cat.

    Also, Just because you replaced somthing DOES NOT mean it is any good. A new part is untested and may be junk. That is why if you replace a part and it DOES NOT change anything, it is best to put the old part back in.

    Have you run the built-in catalytic converter efficency test?

    What about your engine-temparture sensor... if yours is NOT the green one, that may be your problem. (computer "thinks" the engine is too cold and injects too much fuel causing O2 sensor to flag a problem.)

    Yup - cars cost money to maintian, that is a fact of life. That is why I run my own diagnostics and do most of my own repairs.

    I can replace ALL my brakes and rotors for $200 in an afternoon using the very best components. A shop would cost me $800 and they would use cheep components.
  • sphinx1983sphinx1983 Posts: 12
    Hey Man, Thanks. I know what you mean. I want to fix it when I am sure which one it is. I am sorry I miss spoke I do know the computer diag. said bank one O2 sensor reading too lean and then the other code was for the miss-fires so thank you for letting me know the correct sequence. I have a 1.8 4cyl Turbo. I am not sure what you mean about "the green one" What do I need to look for to check that? I do know that new parts can go bad but after the Mas was fixed I did not have anymore of the problems or codes that I had with that so I am pretty sure (I hope) that it is ok. I want to buy the right sensor. Do you know if there is a difference between the two? I am pretty sure there are. I use to work on my own car all the time when we had two fords. My mom had an escort GT and I had a Probe. Working on those was a piece of cake. The VW engine is all sealed up and it freaks me out. Plus the Extended Warranty people say if you mess it up it will mess up or void the Warranty. I am beginning to think that would not be bad because every time I have the car in the shop it is something that is NOT COVERED :mad: Tends to tick you off after awhile if you know what I mean. Anyway thanks again for your help and if you know which one I should replace could you let me know Thanks.
  • mummerymummery Posts: 2
    it's been at the VW garage where they have now logged 15 hous of diagnostic time with no results.
    when it first occured there was a strong electical burning smell?? I would have assumed the VW tech's would have figured it out by now. with no luck I'm hoping someone out there may have come across this unique problem - thanks
  • sroonsroon Posts: 1
    I have an 07 Jetta Wolfsberg w/ 67000 miles. I bought it new & have had it maintained by the dealer. Recently, I noticed the radiator fan spins loudly while I am driving & remains on after I shut the car off. I also have a light in the tach lit telling me an exterior light is out..I can't figure out which. I'm taking the car in to the dealer this friday. The radiator fluid seems ok. My questions are:
    1. What is causing the radiator issue?
    2. When will the car require major maintenance (timing belt, etc). I put 60k miles on it in 2 years (30k/yr) but the rate has decreased to 15k-20k/yr.
    3. Can I expect the car to last another 100k miles with routine dealer maintenace?
    4. Are there any things I should be on the lookout for?
    Thanks!
    Steve
  • sphinx1983sphinx1983 Posts: 12
    Hey bpeebles. Do you happen to know hich the bank 1 sensor is. I am trying to buy the right one so I can change it. You are right it is certainly cheaper to fix it yourself. Thank for all your help.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,083
    I have already told you that your 1.8T engine only has one "bank". ("bank" of cylinders) There are 2 O2 sensors in the exhaust-system of the "bank".

    I have the VW factory shop manual open in front of me for your 2001 1.8T engine and it tells me the following:

    Sensor1 is BEFORE the catalytic converter.
    Sensor2 is AFTER the catalytic converter.

    I think that answers your question.
  • sphinx1983sphinx1983 Posts: 12
    We replaced the o2 sensor it was really bad. We reset the CEL and test drove the car it is still running rough. Now when you drive the car the CEL blinks but when it is sitting at an idle the light does not come on. I got a code 17523 and when I checked the u280 memo scanner it says there is a problem in the "ground". We used a universal o2 sensor for the 2001 Jetta 1.8 turbo. It also gave have the miss fire code again too. I also found out I got some bad gas and bad advise from Checkered Flag VW in VA. They said you did not have to burn premium gas it did not matter but it obviously does because the guy who worked on the car for me said a lot of the problems came from burning the wrong fuel. I won't make that mistake again. So if you could please help me with these other things mostly the blinking CEL I would appreciate it. Thanks
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,700
    That code is for the sensor before the catalyst. Sensors from chain stores sometimes don't work correctly. Using a lower octane fuel is an unlikely cause of your troubles. Don't drive the car with a blinking CEL by the way.
  • mospeed15mospeed15 Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 2005 Jetta for my daughter for the safety features. We won't get a chance to check the maintenance record because she was T-Boned on Friday evening. The Jetta performed as advertised as she and her two passengers came out injury free. I'll look for another to replace it.
  • moe313moe313 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Jetta TDI 1.9 auto tranny. I fried the engine and need to replace it. Con someone give me an idea of how time it takes to remove and replace the engine and what the approx cost will be
    labor only
  • sphinx1983sphinx1983 Posts: 12
    I ended up calling Bosch and they told me the universal sensor would not work on my car. Too little too late as I can not return the other sensor because we put it on the car. But I did get the right one. The exact one Bosch told me to get and they even told me what store in my area had the one I needed so that was great help. I suspected the blinking CEL was bad news and not to drive it. I put it right back up on the ramps. I got the new sensor and as soon as the rain stops we will go put it in and hopefully it will be the answer. I am just so tapped out with all the repair money I have spent on this car. Thanks for your help. I will let you know if this answers my problem. Oh by the way you mentioned the fuel so do you think if everything goes I could just drive this fuel out? Everyone keeps telling me I should siphon it and then put fuel cleaner and premium gas. Do I need to go this route or just next time put premium or mid-grade? It has about a half tank of gas now. Thanks
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,700
    You car's computer can adjust for lower grade fuel. The car won't run as strong but gasoline is gasoline, and I can't see it screwing anything up unless it was, of course, abominably filthy gasoline--contaminated. If you want you can add some octane boost to the tank you have, or just top off with premium. Then after all your problems are over, you can experiment with mid-range gasoline and see if you don't mind the decrease in performance (acceleration) and perhaps a drop in fuel mileage.

    Personally I see no reason to stop using premium .
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    15 hours according to something called "Auto Repair Reference Center", that my library makes availble to me online. So I'd guess probably about $1000 to $1500, depending on what labor rate you will pay.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,700
    Is it seized or knocking horribly? If neither, you might not have to yank it to fix it.

    yep about 15 hours, jeffyscott is exactly right, and around $4000 for a new long block. So here in California, if you include new radiator, hoses and belts (which you should do), given our high labor rates, this job could over $6000 bucks. Hopefully you might have access to a good used engine ?? or lower labor rates.

    At the $6000 range the car is approaching a total, so you should plan this operation carefully and try to control your costs or at least shop around and see what 2001s are going for in your area---in other words just replace the car. I'm seein' prices around $8000 asking in the SF Bay Area, so figure $7500 to buy a decent one.

    It depends a lot on what shape your car is in, mileage on it, etc.
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