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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,081
    Most (all) of the ECU diags can and should be done with ECU in the vehicle. There is a data-access-port on all vehicles. (federal law)

    Do not forget that the ECU is covered by the Federal Emmissions Warantee which may be 100,000 miles on your 2002.

    I cannot stress enough that yours is most likely a ground problem. A ground is perhaps the ONLY thing that can cause multiple - simoutainious errors. All the sensors that feed the ECU and all the outputs from the ECU rely on GROUND being solid and well-connected everywhere.

    Personally, I remove and solder EVERY ground connection in my cars. I also file-clean to shiney metal every ground holddown point. Why do I do this? I am trained in electronics and know what a bad ground can do to a computer system in a car.
  • shriftyshrifty Posts: 255
    Thanks, that's good to know. I think one time when it was very hot out, the engine was still running after I shut the car off, along with the fans. Wasn't sure what to think about that, this clears things up for me.
  • Thanks to bpeebles and others who provided useful information about cooling the turbocharger.
  • cgar23cgar23 Posts: 4
    2003 1.8T

    The other day all the coolant leaked out, I noticed this hose seems to be broken (see pics) where there was a connector or plastic piece of some kind between two clamps. Can someone please help me identify the part and let me know if I just replace it and fill er back up with coolant will everything be good to go? Thanks so much!

    Images here:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,081
    man - your engine-bay is dirty. I use soap and a brush to clean engine-bay annually every spring.

    As for your problem - I am not familear enough with the 1.8T engine. I am sure any VW dealership would have diagrams of the components. (or a car on the lot you could look at)

    To answer your question if everything will be OK.... I would say YES - provided that you did not drive without coolant in the engine.

    IMPORTANT: You *must* use only G12 coolant in that engine. In fact, your last photo shows this fact on the resivour. (The icons mean READ THE MANUAL ans USE G12)
  • cgar23cgar23 Posts: 4
    Yeah, I know it. I gotta wait for it to cool down a bit before I take on that job (in AZ).

    I'm pretty far away from the dealer so I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction and am hoping to order the piece. It just looks like a connector of some sort, perhaps so the whole hose doesn't have to be replaced? The connections on either end (one in the back of the engine, one up under the front) look like they might be a bit harder to replace...

    Thanks for the tip on the G12. I was aware of that and won't use anything else. Thanks for the response!
  • Go to your local auto parts store. I prefer Autozone. I work there so I get a discount.

    Just ask for a hose connector for the right inside diameter of your hose.

    Open the clamps pull out old plastic parts and then put in a new plastic part.

    Should be real easy since you can get to it right off.

    Looks as if someone before you had a hose that they cut and put in the connector.

    They might have done this to flush the system.

    You could use a t connector to allow access for a flush at a future time.
  • vtvwvtvw Posts: 1
    The exact part broke on my 04 Jetta last week. The part number is 1J0-122-063-A. It is a length of hose with the connector on it. The hose will connect in the front of the engine. It took me less than a half hour to do the job. The cost of the hose with connector was $25 with tax at the dealer. I got the coolant off the internet for $12.75 a bottle. I received it yesterday. For some reason the coolant/distilled water mixture is taking a little while for it to get back into the system.
  • cgar23cgar23 Posts: 4
    Thanks a lot!
  • cgar23cgar23 Posts: 4
    OK, got the part and filled it back up...easy. Same thing seems to be happening with me as far as getting the coolant back into the system. It sounds like there's some air in the lines as well and it makes some gurgling sounds after the engine runs. Did yours just work itself out? Is there a bleeder valve for the air somewhere? Do I need to run it with the cap off the tank? Thanks again for the part number, that made things simple.
  • bmrichbmrich Posts: 10
    I am thinking of getting a 2007 2.5 automatic Jetta. I have not liked the reviews I have read so far with brake and electrical issues. Are these issues really that numerous? Is there any atypical maintenance that this car needs? Thanks!
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,628
    The manual indicates a brake system flush every 2 years. That is atypical for most cars but not for German cars. Not sure why the frequent flushes are prescribed.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,081
    Brake fluid is hydroscopic (attracts water like a sponge). It is like this ON PURPOSE in an effort to 'suspend' the moisture away from critical hydrolic components. HOWEVER: once it is saturated, the water starts to form droplets inside the hydrolic system.

    ALL automobiles should have the brake fluid changed every 2-3 years (milage does not matter at all).... lest corrosion will eat the hydrolic system from the inside-out. No vehicle is immune to this. The corrosion starts in the LOWEST parts of the system (calipers) and works up into ABS components and master-cylinder.

    Dont be fooled by carmakers who do not recommend this change to happen. This has been discussed several times over in the "brakes" forums and the best conclustion I have seen is that some carmakers hope you will trade it in before all the brake-problems start to occour due to not channging the fluid regularly.
  • Thanks for the brake info. When inspecting used Jettas then, how can I tell if the brakes have been properly cared for? I have learned not to take the previous owners word.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,081
    Although not a precise predictor of fluid-changes.... brake fluid should be almost water-clear. Brake-fluid which is dark or black has not been changed for many years.

    (Some specialized brake fluid may be colored blue to help with changing looking for color-change when bleeding the brake-fluid.)
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    If you are looking at 2007's, it's only going to be 2-3 years old, anyway. So if there is no proof that it has been changed, just get it done after you buy.
  • Good Point. But what about the electrical problems I have been reading about with the Jettas? Most were in the 2006 reviews but some crept into the 2007.
  • I have a 2007 Jetta. The only problem I had was because some electrician short circuited the system and burnt the alternator when he was installing a video system. The average mechanic and repair shop usually do not know much about these cars. They do not understand the problems and they even dont have the equpment to repair. If you get it serviced and repaired at an authorized dealer you will be fine. My previous VW served me 10 years and I only had to change oil. But I was the first owner of that car and I did not let anybody touch the car except my authorized dealer. My advice is just make sure you know about the cars past. Car dealers are usually good in hiding the problems. And if the car had been at some point auctioned, do not buy it. After an auction many things about the cars history are lost.(my experience)
  • I have a 2005 jetta tdi-i absolutely loved this car in the beginning, but it now has 97000 miles, we hae the extended warranty until 100000 question is my car has been at a volkswagen dealership getting repaired at least 5 times in the past 3 months....the latest started 3 weeks ago, flywheel broken which caused damage to my clutch plate which the warranty would not cover. So, my cost for repairs was around $500.00. My husband went to pick it up and they said there were more problems. When they washed it prior to us picking it up, they couldn't get it re-started. They gave us a loaner for 5 days and then claimed that the car was fixed and ready to be picked up. That was last Friday. I picked it up in the morning but the car was back at the shop because it would just die on me for no apparent reason. I am extremely leary because they have had it since last Friday and have had to call Volkswagen of America because they cannot find out what is wrong with it. I am afriad that my car that was running a little rough when I brought it in (due to the broken flywheel) will never be the same and I am going to be stuck with it

    Anything I can do?
  • The larger of the two fans doesn't work. When the car is off and I spin the fan blade a few rotations it then gets hard to spin like its rusty. I heard that it might be a fan relay, or a fan switch but I just hope that it isn't that fan motor itself. It still blows cold air, but once in a while it gets a little warm, and the temp gauge went up to 190 but that was just once.I just would like a few opinions before I start replacing switches and relays and what not. Thanks.
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