Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,420
    So you have the 2.5L engine with BGP or BGQ vin codes? If so, yes you have electromagnetic steering and you'll have to have the trouble codes read to figure out what's wrong. You can't diagnose it without a computer scan.

    If you have the 2.0L motor then you have a different system that does use fluid.


  • dp2226dp2226 Posts: 28
    Was also wondering if a bad pulley could be the cause. Looks worn but still seems to spin properly even on a cold start early moring
  • I have a 2001 Jetta with a CEL. The DTC codes it gave me are P0420, P0321, P0301, P0201. The first code refers to the Cat running "below threshold", but the last 3 appear to point towards a cylinder 1 misfire. Has anyone seen these codes on a 2001 Jetta? Is there a common issue or does anyone have recommendations on how I could troubleshoot this issue on my own? I'm a bit handy with vehicles, but I'm no mechanic (far from it). Thanks for any help you can provide.
  • dp2226dp2226 Posts: 28
    The pully was fine, once I was able to get it out and look closely.

    I have the car at Monroe right now who started to review the problem initally. They want to replace my new ignition coil I replaced myself with another new ignition coil and charge me $400. I am going to put the old one back in and see if I can clear the codes. Also may contact the manufacturer for a warranty claim to get replaced.

    Any other ideas out there where the next step would be for codes PO351-PO354 saying there is a primary or secondary issue with the ignition coil.
  • I have a 99 1.8l jetta. Will not start cold until I give it a shot of starter fluid in the air intake. Is there a cold start selinoid on the car. my manual does not describe one. Oh after starting and warmed up can be turned off and started up no problem.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,420
    You might want to check the fuel pressure regulator. If it is defective, your fuel pressure will bleed down overnight, meaning that the fuel pump has to re-pressurize the entire fuel rail before the car will start. Once started, the car will usually start during the day, if not left for too long. A fuel pressure gauge with a "T" fitting on a cold engine should tell the story. On some fuel pressure regulators, you can pull off the vacuum line, and if there's fuel in it, it's dead.


  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    When l used to start a gasoline car in real sub-zero temperatures (Yukon, Alberta, Alaska) , I used to either warm up the air intake (by blowing a hair dryer hot air into the air intake) or, with older american cars, I took the round air filter assembly inside the house, put it in the oven and then with cooking insulated gloves, I would put it back on the top of the engine.

    I had a hair dryer that I would plug into a cigarette lighter for that reason.

    In both cases the cars started like a charm.

    I Europe, when I was in the Army, (heavy diesel trucks) we used to make a small fire under the car and that would warm up the engine from the bottom up. We copied the Russians that used to do it out there in tundra (Vladivostok area).
    I don't recommend that here in the U.S. though.
    But then again they have beaten Americans by launching the Sputnik so why not...

    Some cars have an air intake heater (a small spiral in the air intake assembly) that warms the air up in cold starts (like older Range/Land Rovers). It glows red hot and car takes a warm air breath inside the manifold.

    Not sure what Jetta gasser has in there...

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I beleive the 1.8L uses a "5th injector" to enrichen the mixture when engine is cold. If the ECT (Engine Coolant Temparture) sensor is malfunctioning, then the computer would not "know" that the engine was cold and needs extra fuel.

    Make certain you do the following for a cold start.
    1) NEVER EVER touch the throttle pedal
    2) Turn key to 'run' and allow fuel-pump to run till it stops (DO NOT START ENGINE)
    3) Now turn the key to "start" to crank the engine.

    #2 above allows time for the fuel-pressure to build up to proper level before you crank the engine. If you listen carefully, you will hear the fuel pump run for several seconds when you first trun the key to 'run' position. It is located INSIDE the gastank at the rear of the vechcle.
  • My son's 95 Jetta, GLS III with a 2.0 engine is giving me fits. The engine oil indicator and accompanying beeper is displayed on the dash. How do I access fault codes w/o a diagnostic hook-up, or maybe better yet, where is the connector located? What will cause this fault code? Thanks
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Sounds like you talking about the low oil pressure light and alarm??? I don't think there'd be any diagnostic codes.
  • 2.0,4 cyl jetta,oil has anitfreeze in it. not overheating,does anyone know if this is common ? do u think its head gasket? any ideas ?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    There is no "diagnostic code" needed.... you KNOW that the OP (oil-pressure) is being sensed as low.

    Your next step is to Use external pressure-guage to validate that OP is truly low.
    1) If not, replace OP sensor(s)
    2) If OP is low, DO NOT DRIVE CAR! (expensive damage may occour)

    Oil-pump may be weak... but there may just be sludge in oil-passageways that can be cleaned out.

    Change oil (use correct 5W30 !) and filter (Put some STP oil-treatment in when you change it.) This will enhance the viscosity and add xtra detergents. Hopefully, this will clean the goop out of the engine. You may need to change oil again within 500 miles to drain the gunk out.

    If the above does not help.... consider changing oil-pump. Have professional look at it because there may already be engine-damage if it has been driven with low OP.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Doesn't VW specify 5 or 10W-40? Using the lower viscosity 5w-30 oil may make the problem worse.

    Engine wear can also cause low oil pressure. Using higher viscosity oil can help keep the oil pressure light and alarm from going off. When my son was having this problem and getting conflicting diagnoses of the cause (bad oil pump or engine wear), he used 20W-50 for a while during the summer. We also thought about mixing in some heavy oil, like 50 or 60 weight, with the rest being 5 or 10W -40, as I had read that that is really all these "viscosity enhancers" really are is some single grade heavier oil. Never tried it as replacing his oil pump seemed to solve the problem.
  • Thanks for the advice. I use the starting proceedures you have indicated still no go. The vehicle is not cold cold but after it sits it wont start so the chap who figures it may be the pressure regulator (fuel drain back) may have the answer even though the fuel pump is working the way it should. The temp sensor works as when the car warms up it indicates a temperature on the gauge. Thanks
  • I have several white patches on my 2007 silver jetta probably because of sunscreen lotion. They seem to be resistant to normal washing and the dealer can not say how to remove them. Any suggestions will be appreciated...
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    Try Meguiars scratch X or Nu-Finish polish - I have had a good experience with those two removing sun baked in bird droppings. It appears that your clearcoat might have been penetrated by the sun screen lotion. If that fails, have a reputable body shop buffed it out.

    Dealers normally have the body or paint repairs subcontracted out to independent body shops.
    Alternatively, ask any M. Benz/BMW or Lexus dealer, which body shop they use and have that body shop fix it.
  • I seem to be having quite a few light bulbs going out on this car from a headlight to taillights and now I have a led light that keeps burning out on the 3rd brakelight. Everytime I take it to the dealer to replace it the light seems to be working. They even showed me, but when i got the car home it was out again. it's under warranty so I will keep going back I guess. Not trying to nitpick, but I don't lke burned out lights on my car
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The local constabulary does not like burned-out lightbulbs either... they will gleefully give you a ticket for such.

    Upun hearing complaint of MULTIPLE burned-out bulbs, a good mechanic should consider the voltage is not being properly regulated. They would also check the voltage regulator and also snug up all electrical-connections to/from the regulator. Also the battery-connections and the Ground to the engine should be checked/snugged.

    On the other hand, bulbs that tend to go out and come back can be a different problem besides voltage-regulation. I have seen the sockets which the bulbs plug into be 'flakey' and have intermittent contact.

    Sometimes, the filiment within the bulb can be broken but waving around within the bulb.... sometimes they may make contact and light up.... drive over a bump and they will loose contact and go out. In this case, REPLACE THE BULB.

    The LEDs on the 3rd brake lightbar are SOLDERD in and very unlikely to individually have problems. (Unless solder connections are poor.)
  • ndmike88ndmike88 Posts: 155
    3M liquid rubbing or polishing compound followed by several coats of RejeX.
  • If you have antifreeze in your oil, don't drive this car any further. This is most likely a head gasket failure. If you continue to drive, the oil will 'run out', and only antifreeze in the engine as a lubricant. This will cause major damage. A quick check is to start the engine. If you get white smoke, it is the antifreeze burning up (like steam). I would take this to your trusted mechanic (tow it there).

    If you cause major engine damage with blown head gaskets, you are looking a several thousands in repair, depending on the damage.

    Bel Air Car Guy.
Sign In or Register to comment.