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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I can not believe the cross rails on a roof rack could possibly affect mpg by that much. A much more believable 1% loss, 0.2 mpg was measured by edmunds here: http://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy/we-test-the-tips-part-ii.html#aero
  • tae3tae3 Posts: 1
    it means your battery died, you need to go to the dealership or just a stereo shop. newer radios have a special key to be removed. when its removed have the serial numbers written down. the dealership will match those with your VIN number and they will give you a key to unlock the stereo. :shades:
  • A family friend is about to sell me a 2000 jetta gls 5 speed. Very nice clean car, the cars motor is great. no weird noises come from the car or anything, but when i shift gears on it, the car moves. You have to hold the wheel tight or else the car will move to my left. this only happens when i shift gears tho, once im done shifting it goes away, car runs fine, on the freeway its fine, so what can i be? and how much would it cost to get fixed? im paying $2000 for the car which is cheap but i dont want something thats gonna cost me 1000 to fix.. please help!
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,647
    motor or transaxle mount I would guess. You probably don't want to sell this to anyone in that condition.
  • i am not selling the car, my friend is selling it to me. but is the car worth buying then? my brothers srt4 did the same and he got a alignment and it was fixed, but it does not pull to the left hard, just for a second then it goes back to normal, would the car be worth buying then? i am 18 and buying my first car so yeah... bare with me...
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,647
    Well you said this pulling happens when you shift, so this leads me to believe that this is not an alignment issue.

    I wouldn't buy it without having it checked out. It would only cost $100 bucks or so to have someone look it over. If you buy a car for $2000 and it needs tires, motor mounts and an axle boot, (for example) it wasn't a $2000 car after all.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,081
    I am assuming you are saying that each time you push in the clutch to shift gears, the vehicle 'veers' to the left a little bit and you need to correct by steering to the right a bit.

    *)Does this same "veerng" to the left also happen when you let off the throttle WITHOUT touching the clutch?
    *)Does this same "veerng" to the left happen when you hit the brakes?

    I am asking these specific questions because I once had a VW that would "veer" slightly to one direction when I lifted off the throttle and then "veer" the other direction when I applied the throttle again.

    This turned out to be a 'sloppy' tie-rod-end which was allowing one of the front wheels to steer itself slightly based on weather it was pulling (accellerating) or pushing (decellerating).
  • yes when you step on the gas hard the car will move to the left a bit, and when you brake and even more when you shift between gears. so it can be the trans mount or motor mount or a tie rod?
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,355
    It sounds like a motor mount to me but instead of having us guess, just take it to a shop and have it checked out. With a Volkswagen, that is an especially good idea anyway!
  • 123332123332 Posts: 1
    so i have a 1997 vr6 jetta DOHC with 179 000km but my clutch failed and i am about to get my clutch replaced by a mechanic who lives far away for a cheap price, the only problem is that i need to know if i need any special VW Tools to install a clutch kit, clutch, pressure plate, gasket, bearing. i have been looking for a long time but no answer so far.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,647
    Let's see....for the clutch itself:

    You'll need a flywheel locking tool or equivalent (tool # 3067).

    A clutch disk alignment (centering) tool # 3190A

    If you remove the flywheel, you'll need new flywheel bolts

    To remove the transaxle, you 'll need some kind of engine support bridge to hold the engine up temporarily.

    Also, you'll need a transmission jack

    I presume your mechanic has done this job before?
  • i ran into this problem too and could not find a solution online anywhere it plagued me for days, but alas i have a solution. hidden to your eye is a windage try that is holding your pan up. it follows the shape of your oil pan so it looks like its a gasket but nay it is not. separate the two and it should come down.
  • My Girlfriend has a 96 Jetta VR6 Automatic. She dumped her coolant in my driveway made it about 5 miles and the car made a loud pop then died, she smelled rubber burning. The car never overheated. I filled the resrvoir with water and it did not leak out, as soon as she put it in gear to go it dumped it's fluid again she made it the 5 miles back to the house and it died in the driveway, I don't see any obvious leaks when the car sits. It's a real nice car for it's age but were not sure we want to have it towed just to find out that we are looking at a several thousand dollar repair. Any ideas on where to start with a home repair?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,081
    First of all, driving without antifreeze is NEVER a good thing... how can you possibly say "The car never overheated." ??? I hope you realize the temperature-gauge does not read properly when there is no antifreeze in the system so it cannot be used as a guide.

    Next, figure out where the coolant is coming from. It should not be very difficult with such a large leak.

    Finally, lets not forget VW *REQUIRES* special antifreeze. (substitutions are not a good idea because incompatibilities may cause gelling)

    Obviously driving it AT ALL is asking for $$ problems like warped head.
  • Hi I just took out the switch on mine the two red color things ar paint balls use a small screwdriver dig out most of the paint and the screw sriver will catch the screws unscrew them out uper and lower ( K)
  • tdilovetdilove Posts: 1
    I have a 2008 jetta. In the last couple of days when you start the car there is a buzzing noise coming from the right side of the car. Does anyone know what this is. or should i take it in asap ?
  • intelmanintelman Posts: 5
    I have 46,000 miles on my 2009 SE. I have some bubbling paint on the front edge and underside of my hood. The dealer says it is a paint problem and not covered anymore since the warranty has ended. However, the car has a 12 year unlimited mileage corrosion perforation warranty. The dealer was going to have the area rep come down but now it seems he is not coming based on a conversation he had with the dealer.

    I went to a body shop and they said it is definitely rust coming through the paint. The paint thickness measures 4.9 mils.

    I can see this being a major headache to fight VW on this claim. I have read where VW Customer Service is pretty bad. The service advisor is already giving me the run around. This is the last VW I buy, I'm switching back to Japanese (Subaru, Honda, Toyota).
  • revmarketrevmarket Posts: 48
    Can not diagnose it for sure from here.
    Could be a bad speaker, or speaker wire.
    Try to isolate where the buzzing is coming from and re-post.
  • dckozak1dckozak1 Posts: 16
    edited July 2011
    Several months ago my Jetta started showing symptoms of some sort of power train problem. The car is a manual trans with 96K on it. I'm the third owner and, to the best of my knowledge, there has been no previous problems/work done on this system. My first hint of a problem was feeling a unusual
    vibration through the stick shift and the clutch petal. This was only felt at idle and generally when the car is in neutral. The feeling was like something slapping the transmission from the (freewheeling) side of the engine. It was definite but not consistent. Increasing rpms did not change the frequency or increase the amount of noise or feel, on the contrary, at about 1000 to 1100 rpms it would go away and run smooth without any slapping, noise or vibration. Likewise with this, you could feel a higher frequency vibration threw the clutch even at higher rpms when you would run the gears. This feeling was bad enough to be noticed by my wife as unusual and lead her to avoid the car. The last noticeable thing about this was the sound coming from the exhaust, while running the gears (worse at higher [3000+] rpms) was like a hole in the muffler or exhaust pipe.
    My local mechanic couldn't find a solution and shortly before I was to take to the dealer, something really strange happened. It all stopped, no problems, no vibration, exhaust sounds, all normal.
    This lasted about 2000 miles and than slowly started coming back, not so much the slapping on the stick but the rest and another noticed charismatic of this problem, when you are in any (higher) gear, while cruising, if you let off the throttle you can feel a noticeable thunk through the power train. Its somethings worst than others and can be "managed" to either make it worse or smoother depending on how you manage the throttle and whether you are accelerating hard or decelerating. One other thing, when coming off the clutch, one can sometimes notice a feeling of the clutch petal not releasing cleanly, it feels like it pops off the foot near the top of its travel. Not always noticed, but sometimes.
    Having said all this, the problem is again (!!!!) either (temporary) gone or diminished.
    I would be grateful if anyone has had this problem correctly diagnosed or a mechanic who was worked on this or a similar problem.
  • i bought my 2002 jetta 8 months ago and yes i should of took everyone's advice the first time....instead id figure it couldnt happen to me...ive replaced my transmission three months after i purchased it for $3,200..the i had to replace my shocks & mostly everything in my front end with it in the past 2 months which cost another $2,000....and all these little sounds are still there with little results...my problem i have now is a grinding sound from my front end...the idiot mechanic who has been taking my money says it could be a wheel bearing but he wants to remove my tanny again and look in it again...any ideas on which it could be so i can save time and money???
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