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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    edited July 2011
    1) Drive a manual xMission (they get better MPG and rarely fail)
    2) Seek another mechanic (Get at least 3 estimates before spending $$)

    BTW: On a 2002 you should have expected to have some suspension work.... but $2000 is OUTRAGEOUS. I had the suspension replaced on all 4 corners of my 2003 Jetta for under $500. (
  • fordnutsfordnuts Posts: 19
    Replace the electronic door mechanism in driver's door. Had a draw on battery..tried everything and then found out to replace that and it worked. No more constant draw. ;)
  • fordnutsfordnuts Posts: 19
    Nobody has had to replace the trunk mechanism in a VW (Jetta '02)???. Talk about an overcomplicated device. The electronic latch by driver's door here it activate a mecahnism in the trunk, however, the trunk would not open. Took all the screws off the carpeted door frame in the trunk and found out the one plastic piece that releases the latchwas broken. And it can't be glued back together.. too much stress is imparted on the this piece. I'll be calling VW to see how much it to replace, very doubful they just replace the single plastic piece, we'll see.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Yup - sometimes, due to cost to repair, you may opt to just use the key in the trunk to open it.... or are you suggesting that the key does not work either?
  • jcroylejcroyle Posts: 2
    I have a 99 jetta 2.0l 5sp. It has 240k miles on it. Recently it has begun stalling while driving. This happens at any speed. It will surge a few times before the engine cuts out. It will not restart for about 2-3 minutes later. Now it may run for another 30 miles just fine, or it might do it again in 2-3 more miles.

    Things I have done:
    replaced fuel filter
    replaced timing belt
    replaced MAF
    replaced cam position sensor
    plugs and wires are only one year old.

    The dealer has no idea why it is doing this......
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Almost sounds as if engine is starving for fuel. Have you considered the fuel-filter or fuel-pump?

    I believe there is a "diagnostic test" that can be done which entails removing the fuel-feed line from engine and sticking in coffee-can. Then jumper the socket for the fuel-pump-relay to force the fuel-pump to run.

    As I recall, there is a specification which says how much fuel should be in the can after so many seconds.
  • revmarketrevmarket Posts: 48
    Try seeing if the ignition coil is causing intermittent spark?
    If it is bad and gets overheated then it may fail to give the right voltage.

    Normally when Jetta coils go they just quit all together.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Actually, the CEL will lite up if ignitor is failing to fire the sparkplugs. I am not sure the original Poster mentioned that ANY lites were on the dashboard... hence we have to assume the ignitor is not the issue.
  • It sounds like the O2 sensor is bad..... I have had cars putter and stall on me because of a dirty or failing O2 sensor
  • I have a 2001 VW Jetta and the interior ceiling is coming down. Any suggestions on how to repair it? Also the material around the door is coming a loose..HELP!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    These are molded one-piece headliners, so it's hard to know what your problem is exactly. Maybe a clip broke or something? You'd best check in with an upholstery shop unless you can post us a photo of what's going on.


  • sbellahsbellah Posts: 1
    edited September 2011
    I have a 2002 Jetta, GLS 1.8 T., 145,000 miles. About a week ago, the coolant light (flashing thermostat) came on the dash. Checked the "globe" coolant tank, it was empty. I bought 50/50 coolant (NOT the red colored VW coolant) and added to the full line. About 24 hours later, light came on again, coolant was completely empty. Kept adding coolant for about 3 days until the oil pressure light (flashing oil can) came on with the coolant light and the thermostat maxed out to 260+.

    I found that there were two separate hose pieces that were connected near the radiator (why not ONE single hose?) that had broken apart. Coolant was simply spilling out like a garden hose. Was able to connect them back together, added coolant, but still seeing light come on. No noticable leak anywhere, nothing pooling under car. The reservoir will still be completely empty after 10 minutes of driving. I can hear a rushing/flushing sound under the hood when I turn off the engine, near the radiator-like when a washing machine drains.

    Is the car just starving for coolant after not getting any due to the broken hose? How much coolant should it take to properly cool the radiator/engine? I've been told it may be the water pump. Again, with no coolant visibly leaking, where does it go? I'm seeing the same behavior as before, but thought that re-connecting two obviously separated hoses would do the trick. Not so far. I've only driven the car once since connecting the hoses, for about 10 minutes. I don't want to overfill with coolant, but I also don't want the engine to overheat and seize. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    I think if I were you I'd get the cooling system pressure tested. This will tell if there are any leaks and also might help identify head gasket problems.


  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Mixing ANYTHING with VW G12 coolant is a bad idea. (I realize you were in a bind but distilled water would have been a better choice.)

    Now that it has been 'mixed' consider a tottal R&R of your coolant....Lest, you may get 'gelling' and plugging-up of the cooling system.

    The sound you hear under the hood after turning off the engine is BOILING ANTIFREEZE... this a a bad thing. Do not drive until you have this under control.... Lest you risk warping the head and causing serious trouble.

    For now, if you cannot obtain G12 antifreeze, get a case of distilled water and carry it in the trunk.

    Here is a URL which helps explain G12 antifreeze
  • There is no score/ mark in the top pulley to line up. Has anybody come across this issue before? :mad:
  • gravitygirljsgravitygirljs Posts: 2
    edited October 2011
    OK so I have a 99.5 Jetta GLS 2.0 5sp Manual and I am having some serious issues. I bought the car and it had problems with the cat converter. Had it replaced last winter. Had new o2 sensor, plugs and cables 2 yrs ago. check engine light on until cat replacement then shortly after went on again. Took it back said it was something to do with my idle. I planed on bringing it back as soon as I had the cash but it went off again. Fast forward to a couple weeks ago, car ran very low on gas, only had a few dollars to put in but it should have gotten my light off. My gas light stayed on and it was reading over a quarter tank and chugging a bit, idling, running rough. The light should have been off at the point the lever was reading. i went to get some fuel cleaner thinking I had a clog or something but before I got to the station to fill it up it kinda chugged once hard and all resumed normal. Light off not running rough. A few days ago my check engine light came on again. Since then it is getting worse, have to push more on accelerator taking of or it feels like it is going to die, intermittent chugging at steady speed, idling ROUGH, and yesterday the check engine light started blinking at me!!! It is not consistant though, it is off sometimes, solid sometimes, and blinks sometimes. I stopped by a shop and they ran the codes and here is what I got. I have NO idea where to start.
    17990 idle adaptation limit reached P1582 intermittent problem ecm. 0134 Engine control module defect intermittent, 16684 random missfire, 1687 cylinder #3 missfire, 17988 throttle actuator bank 1 malfunction intermittent, 17708 missfire detected possibly low fuel P1300 intermittent, 16686 cylinder #2 missfire.
    My car has a salvage title. it was wrecked and rebuilt the yr it was new. it has an interior leak that comes through the right front wheel well area. the carpet is gone and the electric controls on that side of the car do not work. seat heater, defrost. My temp gauge sits at bottom level but once in awhile, like now, moves to middle 190 point. never hot and does not move high to low and such. I get 28-29 MPG. My car just turned to 140k miles. The shop said it may be a computer issue and I need to replace it first. I am afraid my car will blow up or something. I can not see anything when I visual my engine. It is clean and nothing apparent. I am mechanically inclined but I am now preg so no fixing anything with fluids or fumes. I need any help possible of things I can try and do for myself. I have the Chilton book on it too if that would be of help.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    edited October 2011
    You mention several unrelated issues. I will try to give you some help

    1) That year of VW was *known* to have a bad temperature-sender. Simply replace it with one of the upgraded (green) ones. (less than $20 part) On the 2L engine, I have replaced the temp-sensor in the dark with my daughter holding a flashlight. (it is that simple)

    Here is link to new sensor, O-ring and clip for your engine.

    Since a faulty temp-sender could cause ALL KINDS of goofy problems and errors, I would absolutely get it replaced before doing anything else.

    2) Remove/clean all ground connections. With all those goofy, unrelated errors, the only obvious answer is the ECU is not getting a solid ground. (or +12)

    Explanation: If the ECU (Engine Computer) gets bad signal from the engine-temp sensor, then the ECU may make bad 'decisions' about how to control the engine. For example, if the ECU 'thinks' the engine is cold when it is really warmed up, then too much fuel may be injected and the idle-speed will be incorrect.
  • gravitygirljsgravitygirljs Posts: 2
    edited October 2011
    Goodness I hope you're right! I had to drive my daughters 94 white and purple geo tracker today, aka the barbie jeep, and felt like I was driving a box! I miss my car! I appreciate the help :-)
    Oh and GREAT site! I found a new window kit for so much less than the dealer wanted :-)
  • jj09jj09 Posts: 1
    i had a problem in my 02 vw jetta 1.8t jolting and lights coming on... they are on the right track... you should check if you need a crank position sensor... if the car jolts and it feels like your not getting enough power to your engine and the epc light along with other check llights comes on that should be the prob and those other codes you could awlays google it and something should come up
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