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Ford Focus Engine Problems

13

Comments

  • I own a 2007 2.0L 5-speed with 55,000 miles. It has been through two winters already, but once temps started dropping this season the car occassionally will not idle when the engine is cold. When the problem presents itself, the engine will crank but will not "catch". It eventually starts, but may take several minutes of cranking, then waiting. I have noticed that if I feather the throttle, the engine will rev, but as soon as I let off the pedal, the engine dies. I had it in and they "reflashed the PCM," but it hasn't helped. Any thoughts?
  • You have what is called an idle air control valve. It is about 3" long, silver in color, with a diamond shaped base and mounted close to the throttle plate. it is about the dia. of a quarter and is mounted with 2 8MM bolts. you can get a new valve at Ford or pos NAPA. They say not to clean the valve, but I have fixed a # of these by removing valve, fill with carb cleaner and work valve back & forth with a small screw driver. Then rinse clean with hot tap water, dry it out & remoumt. That may or may not repair problem, but it"s worth a shot.
    Cliff
  • megszemegsze Posts: 1
    It seems like over the past few months one thing after another keeps going wrong with my focus. The latest thing that has everyone baffled is it now sounds like (all I can think of is...) a Harley. It's loud. It's slow getting going, it doesn't want to shift (if I let off the gas a little bit, sometimes it'll shift, other times it wont)....It was stalling quite a bit, but for some reason it hasn't done that lately.

    Not long ago, my dad had to replace the head on it for me and since then, I've been having all these issues....

    This weekend I'm having the right-rear wheel bearing done and the EGR valve replaces (along with anything else that might need replacing....have to wait and see until he can get in there to look at it)..

    Anyone else having similar issues? Or any ideas on what could be going on?

    Vacuum leak? EGR sticking open? Just a POS?
  • i just put another engine in my 2003 focus, it has the 2.0 sohc engine. the engine is used but has low miles on it. i got it running but the idle is going up and down, and it's idleing really high. i also noticed that the exhaust coming out of the tail pipe is very, very hot. it burns my hands to hold it ther for a few seconds. any ideas what it might be?..thanks.
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    I THINK YOU HAVE A VACCUMN LEAK. The surge is caused by the computer, the O2 sensor send a lean signal to computer which tell the fuel sys to get busy, fuel sys puts in too much fuel and the O2 sensor sends a rich slngle to computer and we do it all over again.
    Take a butane torch, do NOT lite it, turn it on and go around all intake ports at cyl head. also run it around all vuc.ports. If you the eng smooth out, you have than found your vac leak.
    stay in touch
    Cliff
  • tholmes1tholmes1 Posts: 1
    edited August 2010
    Hello, I just moved to a new city, and low and behold, my 5 speed 2000 ford focus car starts having problems and breaks down. For about a whole month my car was sitting on the road not able to start, or even hardly turn over. when it did start, it ran extremely poorly and the engine shook like CRAZY and would sometime stall. It leaked all of the anti freeze out, not from a hose, but anyways,. it has not over heated although it does seem to get very hot. The wierd thing is that, it only leaks sometimes, sometimes alot, and sometimes it wont leak for a week. we went outside to start the car again after a month and it started like new, drove around without any problems other then a little leak, and the engine did not shake one bit!!! Just the other day, the car started to be jerking back and forth when i would try to drive it. The car would start fine, but then when i went to drive it, it would jerk angrily back and forth at times when i shifted gears or tried to accelerate. At times it actually would feel like it is going to stall. also, at times i would put the pedal down to the floor and it would hardly move like it has no power, and then all the sudden BAM it would jerk you and you would go realy fast, very inconsistent speed. the cars engine makes a little hissing noise you can hear at times, and the idling goes from below one to one and a half on its own just up down up down... i know this is alooooot of things all at once but is there anyone who knows what this might be? I dont know to many people in this city so i would really appreciate any suggestions!!!! thank you.. :sick: :confuse:
  • cvjointcvjoint Posts: 4
    edited August 2010
    Anybody hear about cylinder malfunctions in these Focuses? I just had a dealer tell me he had to rplace cylinders on a 2000 because it was running on just 3 cylinders. Is this a common problem? Once they are all replaced can I assume the car will be reliable? Thanks
  • cvjointcvjoint Posts: 4
    edited August 2010
    Everybody knows Ford put cheap ignition switches into the early Focuses. Can they be replaced with better made ones or do you have to replace them only with Ford's stuff? Thanks
  • My daughter has a Focus 1991 Zetec1.6 estate. When petrol tank is fulll runs ok. As soon as gets to 1/4 full it missfires slows down engine cuts, jerks starts again , and continues in this way and has often stopped altogrther. Has been in the garage several times but they dont seem to know what to do. Fuel pump ok. Now say they will give a diagnostic check. If no go then will drain the tank and clean it out. They suggested that the tank be well topped up, but with 2 kids to cart around she cant forever be pulling into a station to fill up.
    Has anyone any ideas on this one please?
  • i put new connecting rod bearing in it theres a new head gasket oil pan gasket and cover pan gasket and oil pump and new lifters and it still has a light tap to it oh yea check engine lights on to..
  • try going a compression test on it even though u put another head on it it probably has dropped another valve in it. How does it run at regular idle?
  • tnjdtnjd Posts: 1
    My 2003 Focus has no power what so ever. The car jerks back and forth like it wants to stall. From a stop, it takes me about a quater mile to get up to 30 miles per hour. The check engine light was on, but after changing the O2 sensors is went off. Drove it home from the shop and the check enghine light started flashing. Just had new plugs, wires, coil pack, O2 sensors, and filters changed and it did not help. The mechanic just called and said, "come pick it up. We cant figure out whats wrong with it". Now I have to take it to a Ford dealer that wants to charge me $94 per hour to diagnose the problem. Anyone have any ideas that do not include pushing it off a cliff? :sick:
  • Try taking your exhaust pipe loose at the exhaust manifold, just have it very loose but do not
    take it off. Take it for a ride & see if you now have better power, if so, you have a plugged catalic converter. If that does not fix it, check your timing belt ( if you have 1. not sure ) if you
    do, line up the timing mark on the crank pully with the notch on the ft cover, remove belt cover and look for timing mark on cam sprocket, it should be at 12 noon, if it's at the bottom, rotate the crank 360 * and recheck. If belt is worn it may have jumped a tooth or 2. If you have a timing chain,under the valve cover, disregard the belt info.
    Let me know what you find
    clifford20@comcast.net
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  • camille7camille7 Posts: 1
    My 2000 focus spits and sputters, jerks and doesn't have any power, engine light flashes, and i smell antifreeze, but all this only happens when it gets wet, otherwise it works fine. i've already gotten a new catalytic converter, O2 sensor, some sort of throttle part, the plugs and wires are good, don't know what it could be. any suggestions?
  • tecmictecmic Posts: 1
    it can't breath exhaust is plugged ... catalytic converter probably plugged
  • loub4usloub4us Posts: 1
    Help! We recently bought a 2001 focus zx3. Bought it as is, and 2 days later the check engine light comes on. It always idles high. If you are doing 60 down the highway and shift it into neutral, the tach goes over 4000. The code said it was the IAC. I replaced it, but nothing changed. Had meineke turn the check engine light off, next day it came back on. They looked it over, said either the part I put on is bad and I should put on another, or I should take it to the dealer to diagnose. He thinks it may need a new computer.
    You fine people seem to have had many of these problems, any ideas of what I can do next without having to spend the money at the dealer? I have already changed plugs and wires, cant find a vacumn leak.
    Thanks

    Lou is St Louis
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    The IAC is the idle air control valve, it is a can shaped about 3" long with a diamond shape base, held on with 2 8mm bolts.and a wireing loom at the other end. Is this what you replaced.? and where did you get it.?
    Something else you might try. taking your throttle posistion sensor, loose from the air intake
    tube and see if the idle comes down.
    Cliff
  • mechanic11mechanic11 Posts: 1
    I had the same trouble with my car, it was the EGR Valve
  • wiseguy6wiseguy6 Posts: 1
    i have a 2004 ford focus recently i found that with the ac on the car is very slow when climing hills or moving off from start any suggestions
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    Need a bit more info, miles since air filter repl. tune up, fuel filter.? Does it idle ok with air on?
    Auto trans ?
  • mammawmammaw Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 ford focus that when in drive and it picks up speed, it has a hard surging feeling. I have had the trans fluid, and filter changed. It helped a bit, but the problem is still there. I was told to try the speed sensors. If that doesn't help, anyone have any suggestions.
  • markus5markus5 Posts: 102
    Several days ago when I went to fill up the tank, I noticed that the Fuel Cap was missing on on my 04 Focus (2.3 PZEV). The Check cap light was NOT on. It was a weekend and no Ford Dealers were open. I was also away from home so therefore decided to try for a generic cap. An auto parts store clerk was very helpful as we tried on 3 different parts which seemed to be applicable. We settled on one but I knew that it did not turn and close appropriately.
    This morning, I noticed that finally the Check gas cap light is on. I quickly secured the Motorcraft part and replaced the generic cap. The warning light has not yet gone off. Is there a built in "Buffer" or delay set into the electical warning light system.? I figure It took a number of days for the light to go on, will it be likewise when shutting off?
  • tim156tim156 Posts: 308
    edited July 2011
    Try pulling the fuse first to reset the function. You will find the fuse location in your Owner's Guide. If that doesn't do it, try disconnecting the negative battery cable, of course this will cut power to all your electrical systems.
  • markus5markus5 Posts: 102
    Tim,
    Thanks for the quick reply. I will not need to try any of these remedies, which seem to very logical ( first thing to do is re-boot, of course).
    This morning, very quietly, the sensors did their job and turned the warning light off. Quite symetrical, I must say. It took about the same time to activate the warning light as to de-activate.
    So I will attach the tether on this replacement Motor Craft cap, it is a keeper. $34 well spent. My next time in Benington the generic cap hopefully can be returned.
  • Hey,
    we reolaced the intake manifold (plastic) aqnd were left holding a suction hose that we don't know where to connect? the dealer has no clue,and so do local mechanics. the engine light is on and it calls for the oxygen senser to be changed but we feel that the vacuum hose needs to be connected first.
    anybody has an idea out there we would appreciate.
    thanks
    Z
  • markus5markus5 Posts: 102
    One of the boots was ripped while pulling the coil off the plug. These boots are non-electrical insulaters that slip down into the spark plug holes. Dealer wants $113 for a new coil and boot. The coil is good. Indeed the original plugs after 110,000 miles were absolutely text book perfect. I am using this old coil fitted with the damaged, less than perfect boot. It seems to be running just fine. However does any body have any ideas on either replacing or properly sealing up this opening without buying a new coil and boot assembly. ( 2.3 pzev )
  • I think the boot is avail by is't self from Ford, it also may be avail at NAPA.
    Cliff
  • markus5markus5 Posts: 102
    Thanks Cliff. Perhaps I did not ask the dealer the right question. I should have asked him to pull the Coil out of stock only to find that this boot is a separate part. I thought I had been clear to the parts person that I did not want to spend the money on a coil that was good.
    I will get back as soon as it dries out around here.
  • markus5markus5 Posts: 102
    Thanks Cliff, The people at NAPA knew exactly what I needed. $8 is a lot better than $113
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