Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Honda Civic Hybrid IMA Problems

1121315171875

Comments

  • dwa2dwa2 Posts: 4
    Please keep the group posted on whether or not Honda will give you a new battery based on the fact that the IMA light went on twice. Is the car running?
  • gregr2gregr2 Posts: 14
    Same story over and over

    I had the same problem with my 09 HCH. Battery has been replaced - under warranty. Have driven another 3000 with no probs so far except a loss of mpg of about 8mpg from when it was brand new.
  • dowjddowjd Posts: 14
    Exactly same situation here. Like other Civic Hybrid owners we have been royally screwed by Honda.

    To sum it up:

    I think we all experience great gas mileage when the car was new. Then we all have IMA problems. Then Honda updates the software. Then IMA problems again which leads to new battery.

    Problem is mileage has decreased and battery maintains less of a charge (6 bars). In my case, if I drive up any hill for a mile the battery will plummet and the gas engine takes over completely, then the engine screams and begs to be shot. At least mine does.

    Way to go Honda. :lemon:
  • mary jomary jo Posts: 3
    Sometimes (not always) when I stop and the car goes into auto stop, it starts again (while my foot is still on the brake). It seems to want to accelerate or move, while I'm braking. Sometimes, when I stop, the car never goes into auto stop, but stays at a 1000 RPM. Has anyone else experienced this? Is this a potential safety issue?
  • doctorjoleendoctorjoleen Posts: 4
    edited March 2010
    The IMA keep shutting down and the battery in front has no power.
    All the lights are on IMA,, SRA, ABS, I get it jumped started and I hold my breath as the battery continues to lose power down to two notches.
    I took it on the expressway and it charges up. Thank God. There is no
    rhyme or reason for this except a defunct IMA System that is all connected to battery, brakes, starter, etc. They rebuilt the starter previously and it was golden for a few months.
    In Feb. and March 2010 my garaged car would not start three times and had no power. Jump starting will work and I just bought an automatic one that you do not need to plug in. It came from Sears. Recalls should have happened as Honda knows there is a big problem. Each time I make sure there is a record at the dealership. They know they cannot fix it. I have brought it in 25 times for this problem.
  • Thanks for the heads up on the codes. I am not sure they are putting them down on my paperwork and I will make that sure they do.
    You are right. It has to be the wiring and I thought they fixed it several months ago. It is happening often now with the light coming on.
  • shonda3shonda3 Posts: 42
    I have been posting on this site for months now. It seems that, with rare exception, people are furious with Honda's lack of concern for their miserable product. It is also apparent that they are following Toyota's stonewalling ways. Where the hell is NHTSA? Did Honda lobby them the way Toyota did? Jus' wonderin'.
  • Ogre_GEVOgre_GEV Posts: 263
    > If this car starts needing jumps to be started - it will be sold.

    You obviously have a bad battery. In most cases, replacing the battery solves the problem, so just as if you had started having transmission problems: give them a chance to fix it. It's under warranty and sometimes things break.

    If it isn't fixed properly or it happens again, then let us know, but this problem with your brand-new car falls into the category of "sample defect" meaning that your specific car has a defect (as opposed to "model defect" where they all do).
  • Ogre_GEVOgre_GEV Posts: 263
    > Sometimes (not always) when I stop and the car goes into auto stop, it starts again
    > (while my foot is still on the brake). It seems to want to accelerate or move, while
    > I'm braking. Sometimes, when I stop, the car never goes into auto stop, but stays
    > at a 1000 RPM. Has anyone else experienced this? Is this a potential safety issue?

    You may have an intermittent problem with the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) or a similar sensor. This would trick the car into thinking that you giving it gas and not trying to come to a stop which would result in it not auto-stopping or coming out of auto-stop prematurely. I don't think it's a low battery condition because of the unwanted acceleration which has nothing to do with the battery.
  • Ogre_GEVOgre_GEV Posts: 263
    > The IMA keep shutting down and the battery in front has no power.
    > All the lights are on IMA,, SRA, ABS, I get it jumped started and I hold my breath
    > as the battery continues to lose power down to two notches.
    > I took it on the expressway and it charges up. Thank God. There is no
    > rhyme or reason for this except a defunct IMA System that is all connected to
    > battery, brakes, starter, etc. They rebuilt the starter previously and it was golden for
    > a few months.

    What you are describing is the car shutting down the IMA system and not charging the front battery (there is no alternator). When the front 12V battery voltage gets too low, the electronics go haywire.

    There are several things that can be causing this from a bad battery to a $50 sensor. In order to find out what the problem is, you need to take the car to a mechanic or an AutoZone and read the error codes that are stored in the car's computer. Then we can tell you exactly what is wrong and you can have it fixed.

    The problem is that every time the front battery goes dead, the codes are erased. You need to pay attention to the rectangular battery light on the dash. If it lights up, you need to stop driving the car.
  • mary jomary jo Posts: 3
    Thanks for the reply. I bought it used, but from dealer with warranty (it's a 2006). I took it in and they couldn't replicate problem. I'm noticing it seems to happen most in the first few miles--the car does not turn off when I brake but keeps at 1000 RPM. The shop said that's because engine is cold. They said to wait a week and if it's still happening to bring it back--so far, it's happening much less. May also be that weather is warmer now.
  • Just thought I'd share my experience. I have an '04 HCH. Took it in today at 130k, I had an IMA light on for the last 25k that I mostly ignored because everything looked and felt okay, no decrease in mileage or anything. They ran the code and to my surprise said it needed to be replaced, luckily I was covered by the CA 10year/150k warranty
  • cthach03cthach03 Posts: 3
    Hi There,

    I have a 2004 HCH with 245,641 miles on it. My engine light is on and so is my malfunction light. Every now and then I have a little trouble start the car. I know I need to replace the IMA battery... I wonder if anyone knows what battery starts the car? The IMA or the small regular battery? I bought to the dealer and they said my regular battery is still good but I saw the battery light comes on when I have trouble starting my car. Thank you for your help ! Daisy- CA :confuse:
  • jeniferljeniferl Posts: 1
    I have a HCH 2005 with 196k miles. I love it and miss driving it. At 95,000 miles the car seized. It would start but not move. We were told it was the fly wheel and paid $1500 to repair. At around 175k miles the IMA light and engine light came on but was driving fine. We were told the IMA module needed to be replaced but we might as well just drive it until it went out completely. Recently, while driving it, the car seized again and will not move but will turn on. We have since moved up by Yosemite and don't have a trusted mechanic. Does anyone have any suggestions? I love this car and don't want to salvage it.
  • hchblueshchblues Posts: 1
    Considered just copy/pasting the other 2009 HCH posts, but I guess mine is slightly different. After 7000 miles, just when the MPGs were getting good (after the 5,000 mile breaking in period), the IMA system started having problems -- whacky charging/assisting, what you call "recals" and no assist on on-ramps/hills when I really needed it. After software upgrades (shudder), the IMA and check engine lights came on and the Honda dealer replaced the IMA battery. Couple months later, the car is dead in the garage, got it jumped, Honda says everything is fine, couple weeks later dead again. Honda says, "no, it's fine."

    Couple weeks later, battery and IMA lights go on. On the drive to Honda, brake system, steering, headlights, etc. all go on and off until the car dies in the middle of a busy street. No power, even for Hazard lights (at night). After a jump and 10 minutes of charging, it dies immediately after putting it into reverse. ANOTHER jump and I barely get it to the dealer. They replace the front battery and say everything is fine.....one week later, the car dies on the road AGAIN.

    Now they say it is a bad relay that only intermittently showed up as bad. Well, it's been a few weeks and after 120 miles, my MPGs are stuck around 25. I could get better mileage with an SUV...

    Any suggestions or shoulders to cry on?
  • Ogre_GEVOgre_GEV Posts: 263
    > This began at 80,000 miles.I have a good dealership who has replaced free the
    > batteries front and back. Honda mgr in charge of area Hondas was the most
    > effective person in assisting me. They wanted to put a part in the starter motor/IMA
    > for $1400. However I balked and they rebuilt it for free

    Probably because your warranty was extended from 80,000 miles to 84,000 miles and you were still covered.
  • Ogre_GEVOgre_GEV Posts: 263
    Daisy,

    Your 144V battery will start the car unless:

    It is depleted
    It is very cold outside
    Your IMA system is malfunctioning

    Please don't go to a dealer and waste your money paying their rates. Any competent mechanic can fix your car. Also, please either pay a mechanic to read your codes or go to an Autozone and read them yourself. Post your codes here and I'll tell you what is wrong with your car.
  • Ogre_GEVOgre_GEV Posts: 263
    edited March 2010
    When your battery light came on, you started running on the 12V battery alone, so it isn't surprising that you barely made it to the dealer.

    The dealer has likely "upgraded" your IMA computer (MCM). Now let's see what we can do to increase your mileage.

    1. Pump up your tires to 44 PSI
    2. Start driving at or below the speed limit. You'll only lose a few minutes a day.
    3. Pretend that there is an egg under your foot on top of the gas pedal. Try to drive in such a way that you don't crush the egg.

    Try that for a week and see what you get. Let us know.
  • MB_in_MNMB_in_MN Posts: 18
    To review: IMA battery failed at 4000 miles and again at 20000. Honda replaced battery each time without any argument.

    My wife spoke with the sales manager at the dealership about not trusting the car to work properly. He went to bat for us and convinced Honda to just take the car back (it was leased). We swapped it for a 2010 Civic EX-L, just writing a new lease with the same payments. Doesn't happen often, but if you have a customer-service oriented dealership, then you can get lucky. So, it was a nice experiment, but it just didn't work out.

    But there have been many other issues raised in this thread and I wanted to post my comments about them.

    Old IMA Battery Failure :confuse:
    The batteries seem to fail somewhere between 80,000 and 110,000 miles. This should not really come as a big surprise. Ever had a cell phone or laptop battery fail? These are rechargeable batteries, and they do not last forever. Yes, they are expensive. Nobody complains when tires or brakes need replacement, or even the timing belt, which is hundreds of $. If you read my earlier post on Hybrid economics, you can see that you probably did save more money from better mileage than the cost of the battery replacement, and you used less gas in the process. You are still ahead, just not as much as you would like. The fact that the battery failed after many years of use is not something that you can really blame on Honda.

    New Battery Failures and the "Update" :mad:
    This does seem to be a problem, but it does not seem to affect every vehicle. Honda told our dealership that they thought they had fixed the problem (I assume they mean the famous "update"). Some people are having problems with the update, but not everyone. I can tell you from my years of troubleshooting complex scientific instruments that this kind of small, seemingly random failure is almost impossible to troubleshoot and fix. (Toyota has a similar problem with their acceleration issue.) I cannot completely fault Honda for this, but they do have some customer service issues to deal with.

    Finally, there are two sides to every story and we have not heard from Honda on this forum. That's disappointing. There are also suggestions in this thread that the update is problematic for certain types of driving. I don't know enough about the specifics, but I can see that the screaming is not going to help. We need to find a more effective way of dealing with the issue.

    Good luck to all.
  • Thanks Ogre (feel like you're famous after reading all these posts).

    1. I will pump up the tires although 44 sounds high to me (DC is notorious for potholes and I don't want to pump them to a dangerous level).
    2. Can't help but drive at or below the speed limit in this city, so that's an easy one.
    3. I do try to "imagine the egg" thing but the streets are so stop and start, it is hard to find the sweet spot to get through an intersection without more than 3 bars of assist.

    Since my post two weeks ago, I've gotten the MPGs all the way up to 26.
Sign In or Register to comment.