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Chrysler T&C EGR Valve

boroarkeboroarke Posts: 5
edited March 24 in Chrysler
I hope someone can give me some clues as to where the EGR valve is located on our 05 town & country. I have been looking and looking and looking and can't find it. I have seen pictures of what they are supposed to look like but for the life of me, see nothing under the hood that even comes close to looking like it. Anyone know where it's hiding?

Thanks in advance for the help!
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Comments

  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    As I understand it, not all vans have EGR (I'm thinking but don't know for sure that EGR is limited to the CARB and CARB wannabe states). That said, I just replaced the head gaskets on our 3.8 liter 1998 Grand Caravan (different generation and engine layout) and the EGR was plumbed into the intake system just behind the throttle butterfly. You might want to take a peek there to see if there is a dime sized pipe running up there from the rear exhaust manifold.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • boroarkeboroarke Posts: 5
    Can anyone confirm if the 2005 Chrysler T&C 3.3 has a EGR valve??

    Thanks!
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    I can confirm that some 2005 T&Cs have an EGR valve. Like I said in my previous post, it most likely depends upon how the van was ordered (i.e. which emissions region it was ordered for).
  • gary53gary53 Posts: 1
    By now you have probably found your EGR valve! But here is some help. Your van no doubt has a 3.8 ltre engine as mine does. The EGR valve is in very plain view just above the alternator on the left side (actually the front of the engine as it is mounted sideways) It has an aluminum tube attached to it as well as an electrical connection. It is very easy to access and change. I just did mine. It requires that you remove 4 bolts, remove it and then bolt on the new one. Yes, you will have to remove the electrical connection as well. There is a small red clip on the electrical connection that locks the connection. Just slide it to the right and wiggle the connection (plug) off. The only issue I had was the one bolt on the bottom of the EGR is a little awkward to get a socket on. I removed the one top bolt on the alternator mount and budge the alternator toward the front of the vehicle just a few millimeters which made it possible to get my socket on the lower EGR bolt. The whole process took under 30 min. It is very simple! When I went to the dealer to get a new EGR valve they wanted my VIN number as there is more than one EGR valve to chose from depending on the VIN of the vehicle. I had no luck trying to obtain an aftermarket EGR so had to purchase from the dealer which of course is usually more expensive. Don't forget the small gasket (fiber) The larger metal gasket was included with the EGR valve. Hope this helps!
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Your advice is very well stated, and hopefully it will be used by someone else in the future. Regarding boroarke's situation, he showed up on a different site where it was ultimately determined that he doesn't have an EGR valve on his van.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,012
    This would be great as a guide on CarSpace. You can copy/paste the majority of what you have here. Go here to get started and send me an email if you need assistance.

    http://www.carspace.com/guides

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • lvrlpslvrlps Posts: 1
    I had my check engine light come on today right after filling my gas tank. I had it diagnosed and was told it was the egr valve. Is this difficult to change on this particular engine and can I get a diagram for this and try to attempt it myself. I am a single parent, mom and live on a limited income and can't afford for my car to be out of commission that long as I commute 60 or so miles a day for work and well can't afford a high repair bill as well. Thank you Vicki
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    On the scale of 1 to 10 for automotive repairs, the EGR on the 2005 vintage vans is about a 2. The valve is easy to get to and other than some (likely) difficult bolts to extract due to corrosion, the job shouldn't take more than an hour or so even for someone who hasn't done it before.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • jdthornjdthorn Posts: 1
    I just had the same problem. I had to give my VIN to the dodge dealership to get the correct EGR valve. It cost me about $80.

    I had to loosen 2 bolts and remove one on the alternator, then remove the belt in order to get to that last bottom bolt on the EGR valve. It took me much longer. So I guess if you are inexperienced like me it might be harder than that. Then I had to remove the plastic shroud underneath to get the belt back on - breaking one of those plastic clips in the process. I also needed another person to slip the belt back on when I pulled back the tensioner. I bought a pack of plastic clips for $4 or so and snapped that back on. It took me a while. But thanks to your great desciption it is done and working fine. Maybe I made it harder than it needed to be. But I really am not experienced at this. I was able to get it done however. So, thank you very much. Your comments were very helpful and gave me the confidence to try this myself.
  • boroarkeboroarke Posts: 5
    Actually Shipo, you were incorrect. My van did in fact have an EGR valve and replaced it and all is well.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Interesting, IIRC, you had been unable to identify the EGR plumbing and had made at least a few statements that seemed to indicate that your engine was devoid of the EGR system. Hmmm, so either I have you confused with someone else, or something change. Yes, no?

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • lakeg41lakeg41 Posts: 9
    I ALSO HAVE A 2005 GRAND ,3.8. I HAVE A CODE # 406 ,EGR SENSOR A CIRCUIT HIGH . IS THIS WHAT YOURS CAME UP WITH TO JUST CHANGE THE EGR . IT ALSO SOUNDS LIKE THESE EGR'S GO FAIRLY OFTEN AND EARLY . I SEE YOU CHANGED YOURS PRIOR TO THE CAR BEING MORE THAN 2 YEARS OLD (BASED ON E-MAIL DATE ) .ANY HELP TO SAVE SOME CASH . I HATE TO BUY PARTS THAT DON'T NEED CHANGING ,ESPECIALLY $ 65.00 PARTS !!!! I ALSO KNOW A VERY GOOD WEBSITE FOR ORDERING ORIGINAL PARTS -TRY http://www.moparpart.com/dps_index.html , OR JUST ENTER MOPARPARTS.COM IN YOUR SEARCH . THEY HAVE ORIGINAL PARTS CHEAPER THAN AFTER-MARKET . EGR EXAMPLE -- AFTER 62.43 AT AUTO PARTS GIANT ,PLUS SHIPPING , MOPAR SITE -- 65.00 W/SHIPPING INCLUDED . I ALWAYS CHECK PRICES BEFORE I BUY ,THEY AREN'T ALWAYS THE BEST , BUT IF YOU NEED ORIGINAL THEY DEFINATELY ARE !!
  • mlmalermlmaler Posts: 1
    With onboard diagnostics why would it take 2.5 hours to test and replace the upstream oxygen sensor upon a "check engine light".

    This is also the 2nd time I have had to replace it and I only have 64,000 km on it, although it is a 2001.

    Thanks
  • krl2krl2 Posts: 5
    Your info regarding egr on 05 t&c will be most helpful to me. Dealer quote to replace it is $498.00. Totally out of the question.... I found original mopar part from company in Houston, Tx. for $ 64.00 plus 3.00 for gasket & 5.00 shipping. Because of your instructions, I will attempt this myself this Saturday. Wish me LUCK !!!! ( Van has 49,000 miles )
  • gary53, very nice email explaining how to replace egr. My only question is if I remove top bolt on alternator won't it want to jump out of place due the tension on the belt? Thanks.....
  • This did not work out well for me either. Could not get at the bottom bolt on EGR. Tensioner was frozen (not sure how to release it, I turned the bolt on the tensioner end (not the pulley) as I saw a reference to it on the web, to turn it clockwise to release tension, bolt broke). So EGR is still in and I'm worse off then before. Funny thing is I work on old cars for a hobby, can pull motors, tear down and rebuild all manner of things, this job was a SNAFU. I need a book on it I guess. I probably was working on the wrong tensioner part?
  • I was trying to figure out how to get to the bottom bolt too. Finally got there by removing the tube off the top of the EGR, loosening the bottom bolt then removed the top bolt, I was then able to tilt the egr back which made it easier to get to the bottom bolt. I loosened it as much as I could with a 1/4 drive 10MM socket then when the socket bumped up against the alternator I used a pair of needle nose pliers to finish removing the bottom bolt. Now the bolt that held the tube on that broke off is a whole nuther story, dealer wanted $17 for one bolt, I left and found ACE hardware had the bolt I needed for 55 cents.
  • sirgmasirgma Posts: 1
    If you will use a 8 mm 1/4" drive socket with a 2 inch extention for the tube going into the the valve cover, and a 10mm 1/4" drive socket with a 2" extention for the egr valve bolts, you wont have to remove anything. 10 min job to replace with these tools.
  • cuegfcuegf Posts: 1
    OK the dealership quoted the EGR valve replacement at over $400, after chatting with co-workers and doing searchs around the web I decided to take this on. I have NO automotive experience but figured I could do this. I purchased the part at www.clearlyauto.com for about $80. The EGR part number is on the black front part facing you and away from the engine, hard to see but was able to make it out. You need this number to order the part.

    I used sirgma's advice above and advice I received from another poster on another site (can't remember) but you unscrew the tube screws (2) from the top, then unscrew the top screw on the side of the EGR with an extender. Then carefully pry the EGR back towards the engine very gently, once it moved I was able to tap it back a bit further which not only loosened the bottom screw but made it a bit easier to get to with an extender. Then I put everything back on in opposite order, bottom side screw with the EGR pushed back almost tight then I moved it into place and got everything buttoned up. Worked like a charm, I did it in under an hour with crappy tools. Thanks everyone!!
  • cbwilshacbwilsha Posts: 70
    Bravo! And saved $320.

    C.B.
  • jdcar2jdcar2 Posts: 3
    Thank you every one for all the useful info. I feel as though I am ready to try and replace my egr valve, one question though. (History is that my engine light went on and my mechanic said code stated egr valve needed replacement, cost to me approx. 250$ for parts and labor). I was told from a third party that replacing the egr valve with a new one will not turn off my engine light and that I will need to take van to dealer and pay them to reset code to turn off engine light . Is this correct. I thought brain module would resend signal and reset itself automatically. Excuse my terminology as I am not sure of proper terms. Any reply would be greatly appreciated.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,455
    The code will clear after about 40 cycles without a recurrence, or you can use a code reader (these cost between $80 and $150, depending on what you get) to pull the set codes and reset. One or two uses of this device (rather than taking to a dealer) and it will pay for itself. ;)
  • thanks you very much for the info. I appreciate your time very very much.
    any thoughts on dealer egr valve versus auto zone parts store egr valve. Auto Zone is 55$ cheaper but I know some people think dealer parts function better. With weather warming up slightly here in the northeast I am gearing up to trying to replace this thing now that you have empowered me with the knowledge LOL
    jd
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,455
    Often times these parts have the same manufacturer and the only difference in price is the source. I purchased a new fuel filter for my van in August and spent $250 on it; I could get the same part off amazon.com (of all places) for almost $100 less. Unfortunately, I just did not have the time (or so I thought) at the time to wait on the ordered part. I got a whopping one week of use out of the van before an electrical gremlin destroyed its reliability. *sigh* Live and learn.... or just live. :D
  • jdcar2jdcar2 Posts: 3
    Thank you everyone for your help. Dealer part was only about 10$ more expensive than some of the auto part store prices. Paid $118 for dealer egr valve with option code xzz, which I was told my particular van has that option code. Some of the auto part stores did not specify that, so I played it safe with dealer part made for my van. Did job in about 1/2 an hour. Hardest part was that bottom bolt, which needed to be taken out with needle nose pliers after it was loosened. Engine light is out now, and I just got my inspection sticker and passed all emissions tests. I'm good to go!!
    Thanks again!!
  • mrmom31mrmom31 Posts: 1
    At 57K my `06 T&C with 3.8 ltr began hesitating intermittantly. Then flashed the check engine light. Checked with pocket scanner & got code P0404 and determined it was the EGR Control Circuit Range/Performance. Surfed between here and Dodge Forum and decided to buy the part from NAPA for $79 - but they only had one option (?) Followed the install instrux in this thread, and was done in :20 mins. Also used a 1/4" universal socket adapter and a piece of 3/4" black iron pipe to gain leverage on the 1/4" drive. Cleared code manually with scanner. Will report back if problem continues and/or CE light returns. Thanks for the advice and the $avings.
  • Anyone have a problem with power door locks that stopped working?
  • This looks like a great site for repair help. I am getting code PO404. I think I have located the EGR valve on my 3.8L . It is on the drivers side rear bank near the spark plug wire distribution connections. I don't want to break anything but I can't get the electrical connector off. I did slide the red lock tab to the right. The connector should just pull off...is that correct ? or are there more locking devices on this connector ?
  • I called a garage after my "check engine soon" light came on. I asked them what is meant and they said we will charge you $130 for a diagnostic and then the cost of parts and repair. I went to autozone and they tested it for free and got code PO 400 which is for EGR valve. They said they has one and it was $120 and I could put it in myself with littke mechanical skills. I called garage and asked them hypothetically if it was a EGR valve what would I be looking at turn key. He said $130 for diagnostic, $229 for ERG and $80 for installation. Total $439.00. I went back to auto zone with my tools and bought the part, put it in, and even had them confirm that the diaphram was bad. They reset my engine light and I put 100 miles on and then got my inspection sticker. I saved $319 and, as I had a free oil change coupon from the first garage, got my oil done for free. He noticed the new inspection sticker and the new EGR and asked why I didn't have them do it. I explained that I did it myself and saved $319 and thanked him for the free oil change!!! He was pissed...imagine that! :D :) :)
  • How do you reset the light? I never did swap mine out. It supposedly doesn't effect much (I haven't noticed) it's been about 3 years since it came on. I should probably swap it out though.
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